New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[stickyfinger]

*New vial/pack...... brew a 1.040 blonde ale. Low hops, no dry hops.
*Make a 1L starter 12-18 hours before you need to pitch it.
*Pitch the entire, actively fermenting starter to your blonde ale
*Days 1-3 temps start around 62-64 and climb to 66-68.
*Day 3-4 let temps go to 68-72 to finish out.
*Day 10-14 range, cold crash or let yeast settle out and transfer to keg (bottle)
*When getting ready to keg/bottle - put 5-6 jars and lids in star san.... half pint or pint size mason jars (I like the plastic, reusable lids you can buy for them).
*Leave about 1-2 pints of beer in the fermenter.
*Swirl up the beer and yeast in the fermenter to get everything in suspension.
*Take jars out of starsan... pour yeast slurry into jars... about 75% full or so.
*(I use bottling buckets and SS Brewbuckets for fermenters - they have spigots, so this is a very easy step... might need to formulate your own strategy if you use something else... for instance, make sure lip of carboy is very clean (isopropyl alcohol for instance ) if you are pouring from a carboy).
*Fill jars quickly and pull lids out of star san and cap.
*Put in fridge.
*When it comes time to brew your IPA's..... take out jar, dunk in star san several times. Get starter vessel and wort ready. *Decant most of what is in jar - leave enough to swirl yeast cake back up and dump into your starter vessel. Make a 1L starter 12-18 hours before pitch time.
*Pitch entire, actively fermenting starter within 12-18 hours of making it.
*Use 5 of your 6 jars on IPA's (or whatever). Jar #6 goes back in another blonde ale(or lawnmower beer of choice).
*Repeat.

Since I have started doing this, I have probably had 75-100 consecutive beers with conan finish at 1.010-1.012. Most were probably in the 1.055-1.065 range. Occasionally a bit higher... but I am just not a fan of 7-8% IPA's. But, I have seen no fall off at the 1.065 range either.

Thanks for this write-up. Maybe this can help people on using this strain, since it seems to be a bit temperamental. I really enjoyed the mouthfeel of the beer the first time I used it though. I compared it with the exact same wort vs US-05. Both beers fermented down to the exact same FG, but I used 1.044 OG, so I might have been lucky. The US-05 seemed much drier and thinner than the Conan. I think Conan could be a great weapon in the battle to make lower alcohol beers that don't taste thin. I didn't really get any ester profile from it. I fermented at 62F and then rose up to 68 at the end.

 

[brew703]

Warming and dry hop should help get a few more points. If it does end up stalling at 1.018 or higher.... I would definitely pitch some actively fermenting 1056 or similar to finish it out. 1.014-1.018 is borderline. 1.014 and under and I definitely would not worry about it.

Can't emphasize enough for those using conan for the first time..... It is a great yeast, but, like others ... that first generation can be sluggish. I brew 30-40 batches or more a year with conan. EVERY batch finishes at 1.010-1.012. I had the same struggles that others have mentioned though when I took a vial or smack pack (with a starter) and went right into a 1.055+ IPA to start.... ended up with that 1.016 kind of thing happening almost every time. In my opinion, the best way to use conan is this:

*New vial/pack...... brew a 1.040 blonde ale. Low hops, no dry hops.
*Make a 1L starter 12-18 hours before you need to pitch it.
*Pitch the entire, actively fermenting starter to your blonde ale
*Days 1-3 temps start around 62-64 and climb to 66-68.
*Day 3-4 let temps go to 68-72 to finish out.
*Day 10-14 range, cold crash or let yeast settle out and transfer to keg (bottle)
*When getting ready to keg/bottle - put 5-6 jars and lids in star san.... half pint or pint size mason jars (I like the plastic, reusable lids you can buy for them).
*Leave about 1-2 pints of beer in the fermenter.
*Swirl up the beer and yeast in the fermenter to get everything in suspension.
*Take jars out of starsan... pour yeast slurry into jars... about 75% full or so.
*(I use bottling buckets and SS Brewbuckets for fermenters - they have spigots, so this is a very easy step... might need to formulate your own strategy if you use something else... for instance, make sure lip of carboy is very clean (isopropyl alcohol for instance ) if you are pouring from a carboy).
*Fill jars quickly and pull lids out of star san and cap.
*Put in fridge.
*When it comes time to brew your IPA's..... take out jar, dunk in star san several times. Get starter vessel and wort ready. *Decant most of what is in jar - leave enough to swirl yeast cake back up and dump into your starter vessel. Make a 1L starter 12-18 hours before pitch time.
*Pitch entire, actively fermenting starter within 12-18 hours of making it.
*Use 5 of your 6 jars on IPA's (or whatever). Jar #6 goes back in another blonde ale(or lawnmower beer of choice).
*Repeat.

Since I have started doing this, I have probably had 75-100 consecutive beers with conan finish at 1.010-1.012. Most were probably in the 1.055-1.065 range. Occasionally a bit higher... but I am just not a fan of 7-8% IPA's. But, I have seen no fall off at the 1.065 range either.

Great information.
So you use one pint size jar to make a starter and pitch that entire jar? I know it's difficult to estimate but with all the hop debris that will in the slurry, what would you estimate the cell count to be if a pint size jar is filled 75% full with slurry? I'm asking because I never brewed a beer that had as much hops added as your recipe.

 

[stickyfinger]

Great information.
So you use one pint size jar to make a starter and pitch that entire jar? I know it's difficult to estimate but with all the hop debris that will in the slurry, what would you estimate the cell count to be if a pint size jar is filled 75% full with slurry? I'm asking because I never brewed a beer that had as much hops added as your recipe.

The jars of yeast were harvested from his 1.040 blonde, so there should be very little detritus mixed in with the yeast I would think.

 

[brew703]

The jars of yeast were harvested from his 1.040 blonde, so there should be very little detritus mixed in with the yeast I would think.

That would make sense. Guess I mis-read the post.
So the yeast that is used in brewing the NE IPA would be discarded once finished?

 

[Braufessor]

Here are a couple jars from fridge. I would decant most of beer off one jar and use the yeast in the jar to make a 1L starter 12 hours before I brew. I then will pitch that entire 1L starter into wort. When you fill a jar with slurry, most of it is just beer. The yeast will settle out. The yeast I collect is from blonde ale..... Not IPAs. I dump my IPA yeast after those batches. The blonde ale is a very clean beer.....2 total ounces of hops and most of those settle out and are left behind in kettle.

 

[stickyfinger]

Here are a couple jars from fridge. I would decant most of beer off one jar and use the yeast in the jar to make a 1L starter 12 hours before I brew. I then will pitch that entire 1L starter into wort. When you fill a jar with slurry, most of it is just beer. The yeast will settle out. The yeast I collect is from blonde ale..... Not IPAs. I dump my IPA yeast after those batches. The blonde ale is a very clean beer.....2 total ounces of hops and most of those settle out and are left behind in kettle.

Wait a minute. I don't think we should be taking this guy's advice after all. THIRD PLACE!

 

[Braufessor]

Wait a minute. I don't think we should be taking this guy's advice after all. THIRD PLACE!

Hahaha... Good point. Should have moved my starter in front of this one to instill more confidence

 

[stickyfinger]

Hahaha... Good point. Should have moved my starter in front of this one to instill more confidence

That's more like it, but it's a little dated... ha ha ha!

 

[brewski09]

*When getting ready to keg/bottle - put 5-6 jars and lids in star san.... half pint or pint size mason jars (I like the plastic, reusable lids you can buy for them).

I was always concerned about the seal on the plastic kids and infection potential with them. I've had the plastic lids leak. You can boil the metal ones to sterilize and if they can leak, microorganisms can enter the mason jar.

 

[Calaeb]

Kids' last school day here. Took the day off to brew.

10# GP
2.5# Flaked Oats
1318 starter
0.75oz Warrior at 60 min for bittering
2.5oz Mosaic/1.5oz Nelson at flameout for 30 min whirlpool
2.5oz Mosaic/1.5oz Nelson for an additional 30 min whirlpool (started when temp was ~180F)
Will do 2 dry hop charges with the same amounts as the first two

SG: 1.060

Came out super green like all the other beers I've brewed with this base recipe
Pretty sure I'll need a blowoff tube on this one since I ended up with about 6 gallons

So many Iowa guys in this thread, I love it!

 

[Braufessor]

I was always concerned about the seal on the plastic kids and infection potential with them. I've had the plastic lids leak. You can boil the metal ones to sterilize and if they can leak, microorganisms can enter the mason jar.

True..... I just like that the plastic ones clean up so much better. Plus, you usually can't crank down on the lid anyway as pressure will build up in the jars....so, it generally is not an air tight seal anyway.

 

[user 141939]

The lids on the metal ones will rust if you use atarsan on them. I guess you can boil them though.

 

[stickyfinger]

I've tried both lids. I like that the plastic ones din't rust and have less gaps to consider. I hate touching the sealing part of the metal lids when i'm trying to be really clean. Also, i like that the plastic lids will leak out pressure easily

 

[KirkMN]

Braufessor, I thought I saw your blonde ale recipe somewhere, but can't find it now. Would you be willing to share that? I'd like to try your method.

 

[stickyfinger]

In case anyone is interested - this is the blonde ale I make:
OG = 1.042

45% 2 row
45% golden promise
2.5% each of Wheat, honey malt, cara 20 and flaked barley

Hops = 1oz. of liberty at 30 minutes, 1 oz. liberty at 5 minutes

PH = 5.35

Ca = 65
Sulfate = 75
Chloride = 65

I go 75% RO, 25 % Hard tap water. Lactic acid to hit 5.35-5.40

Mash = 152

** Something like Centennial Blonde recipe would be a great one too probably.

Just looking for a light, easy drinking beer that takes no dry hop and makes a nice pile of clean yeast for harvesting. People drink the hell out of this beer though - I can never keep it on tap. I like it myself, wife likes it and guests tend to demolish it.

here

 

[Braufessor]

Yep^^^^

 

[KirkMN]

Thanks guys. I have all of that on hand and will get working on the blonde. I had good success on the original recipe of the NE IPA, a couple variations with moderate success, but I'd like to develop this beer more.

Has anyone had success at getting a similar flavor and mouthfeel without the cloudiness? I'm wondering if I can omit some of the wheat and use Biofine Clear to achieve something similar. Mostly as just an experiment for my own curiosity as I actually like the thickness of the beer.

 

[Braufessor]

That is on my agenda to test out too. I have not really gone out of my way to make the beer clear yet - but plan to do the same, for curiosity sake. As I have said before, using conan, and the process I use - my versions are not "yeasty".... they are hazy. Not murky or overly cloudy though. I don't cold crash, and I have not used gelatin or anything yet either. Conan will drop out on its own a lot better than 1318 does.

 

[brewski09]

Thanks guys. I have all of that on hand and will get working on the blonde. I had good success on the original recipe of the NE IPA, a couple variations with moderate success, but I'd like to develop this beer more.

Has anyone had success at getting a similar flavor and mouthfeel without the cloudiness? I'm wondering if I can omit some of the wheat and use Biofine Clear to achieve something similar. Mostly as just an experiment for my own curiosity as I actually like the thickness of the beer.

The heady topper clone thread stopped using wheat a while back, still hazy. I had a can in the fridge for a while and it cleared eventually. Still tasted great so I'd say cold crash the heck out of it for your first round and bio fine the second round of that doesn't work.

 

[val214]

I brewed this recipe with the original grain bill. Pitched a 2nd gen Omega Conan yeast and ended up at 1.010. I agree with the previous post that the Conan yeast is a bit sluggish first time around. The original batch I brewed using the omega yeast ended at 1.018. I used citra, simcoe and eldorado hops. So far this taste like straight pineapple juice.

Cheers!
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1465025375.426054.jpg

 

[rosscoh]

I brewed this recipe with the original grain bill. Pitched a 2nd gen Omega Conan yeast and ended up at 1.010. I agree with the previous post that the Conan yeast is a bit sluggish first time around. The original batch I brewed using the omega yeast ended at 1.018. I used citra, simcoe and eldorado hops. So far this taste like straight pineapple juice.

Cheers!
View attachment 357284

How much PPM on chloride and sulfate did you use? Looks nice and thick!

 

[anteater8]

Drinking my 100% Nelson version of this beer. Not my favorite so far, but interesting for sure. Pine and earth on the nose. Pine, white wine, dank in the taste. A touch of fruit, but not much and I can't quite put my finger on it. Way more intense than 100% Citra or equal parts Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic, but not nearly as good. Wouldn't use this hop again without something fruitier to balance it out.

 

[brewski09]

In case anyone is interested - this is the blonde ale I make:
OG = 1.042

45% 2 row
45% golden promise
2.5% each of Wheat, honey malt, cara 20 and flaked barley

Hops = 1oz. of liberty at 30 minutes, 1 oz. liberty at 5 minutes

PH = 5.35

Ca = 65
Sulfate = 75
Chloride = 65

I go 75% RO, 25 % Hard tap water. Lactic acid to hit 5.35-5.40

Mash = 152

** Something like Centennial Blonde recipe would be a great one too probably.

Just looking for a light, easy drinking beer that takes no dry hop and makes a nice pile of clean yeast for harvesting. People drink the hell out of this beer though - I can never keep it on tap. I like it myself, wife likes it and guests tend to demolish it.

What's the IBU you shoot for on this one? I'm thinking about making this for a party and then making a NE IPA for the after party.

 

[BreezyBrew]

Also, have a favorite yeast?

Again, thanks for all of your dedication to this thread, it is much appreciated!

 

[Braufessor]

What's the IBU you shoot for on this one? I'm thinking about making this for a party and then making a NE IPA for the after party.

In regard to IBU.... not much. I think it is less than 20. It is not a hoppy beer at all.

 

[Braufessor]

Also, have a favorite yeast?

Again, thanks for all of your dedication to this thread, it is much appreciated!

Conan is my favorite yeast.... I use it almost exclusively for these beers. For me, the right combination of light esters, but still somewhat clean. Happy medium on cloudiness/haze/suspension. Does not drop totally clean and clear - but not a "yeasty" either. A bit finicky first generation.... but once you get a process down for it, ferments very predictably.

Other yeasts I would consider playing around with.... 1318, 1056, Denny's favorite 50, 1272.....

 

[Braufessor]

Drinking my 100% Nelson version of this beer. Not my favorite so far, but interesting for sure. Pine and earth on the nose. Pine, white wine, dank in the taste. A touch of fruit, but not much and I can't quite put my finger on it. Way more intense than 100% Citra or equal parts Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic, but not nearly as good. Wouldn't use this hop again without something fruitier to balance it out.

Nelson is a unique hop... In my experience, it can be a "love it/hate it" type hop. I have had some Nelson beers I like a fair amount. Have also had some that I really was not impressed with. It can come off as very "earthy" almost some times. Some people just love it though.

 

[brewkinger]

Other yeasts I would consider playing around with.... 1272.....

Anyone ever done this beer with 1272?
I have become quite fond of it recently.
If you can keep it steady in the middle to high end of the temperature range, there is a very unique estery component that I think would work well in this beer.

I have 2 washed slurry samples from a previous pale ale and think I may pull the trigger this afternoon.

 

[user 141939]

What's the IBU you shoot for on this one? I'm thinking about making this for a party and then making a NE IPA for the after party.

I made this grain bill using the centennial blond hop schedule just since I already had the hops.

It was actually a new record for me, 14 days grain to glass, and was a big hit over the weekend with guests.

I used a gigayeast double pitch, the beer fermented in about 5 minutes. The Krausen dropped so soon that I was a little worried, but I ended up with fg of 1.012.

 

[ultra_cas]

Anyone ever done this beer with 1272?
I have become quite fond of it recently.
If you can keep it steady in the middle to high end of the temperature range, there is a very unique estery component that I think would work well in this beer.

I have 2 washed slurry samples from a previous pale ale and think I may pull the trigger this afternoon.

I made it with 1272, bottled it a couple days ago. Original grain bill with Newport for bittering, cascade/galaxy/nelson sauvin for multiple steep/whirlpool additions, and nelson dry hop as I had those hops on-hand. Love the smell of it when bottling, but haven't cracked a bottle yet. The taste test at bottling time was good, though. It finished at 1.013. I'm optimistic. My first time using Nelson Sauvin.

/EDIT/
OK - after reading and replying on this thread, had to give it a try after work yesterday. Not fully carbed yet, but more so than I expected. Will definitely be ready for my fishing trip at the end of next week. Extremely happy with this beer using 1272 and my hop combo. Definitely my top 1 or 2 IPAs I've brewed to date.
/EDit/

 

[duelerx]

Braufessor what do you think if I add mango to this beer? More fruitiness!

 

[stickyfinger]

Braufessor what do you think if I add mango to this beer? More fruitiness!

I just split a 12-gallon batch into two beers. One was a Wit, and the other was a Conan Wheat. So, I used about 4 oz of fresh citrus zest in the 12- gallon batch. I think it definitely added a lot to the flavor of the beer. The Citra hops I added had a more profound effect though. I would definitely experiment with adding fruit or zest to a beer like this.

 

[brewski09]

I made this grain bill using the centennial blond hop schedule just since I already had the hops.

It was actually a new record for me, 14 days grain to glass, and was a big hit over the weekend with guests.

I used a gigayeast double pitch, the beer fermented in about 5 minutes. The Krausen dropped so soon that I was a little worried, but I ended up with fg of 1.012.

Sweet, thx for the input

 

[whovous]

Mine went wrong eight ways from Sunday:
1) Adding a dash of Midnight Wheat to change the color just made it look even more like mud;
2) Too finely ground grist A. meant repeated stuck recirculating mash; B. meant my controller thought the temp was dropping C.meant compensated with temps much higher than expected;
3) I missed my OG;
4) First gen Vermont Conan without a starter meant I also missed my FG.

Even with all of these screwups, the beer may not have been pretty, but it tasted pretty darn good! I tried to post a pic, but there seems to be a problem with the server right now. Mosaic/Simcoe/Galaxy, FWIW.

 

[stickyfinger]

Mine went wrong eight ways from Sunday:
1) Adding a dash of Midnight Wheat to change the color just made it look even more like mud;
2) Too finely ground grist A. meant repeated stuck recirculating mash; B. meant my controller thought the temp was dropping C.meant compensated with temps much higher than expected;
3) I missed my OG;
4) First gen Vermont Conan without a starter meant I also missed my FG.

Even with all of these screwups, the beer may not have been pretty, but it tasted pretty darn good! I tried to post a pic, but there seems to be a problem with the server right now. Mosaic/Simcoe/Galaxy, FWIW.

If you're having recirc problems, I would highly recommend trying "malt conditioning." I mill at 0.030" gap and have fantastic flow now that I condition.

 

[duelerx]

I just split a 12-gallon batch into two beers. One was a Wit, and the other was a Conan Wheat. So, I used about 4 oz of fresh citrus zest in the 12- gallon batch. I think it definitely added a lot to the flavor of the beer. The Citra hops I added had a more profound effect though. I would definitely experiment with adding fruit or zest to a beer like this.

Awesome! Never thought of citrus zest.

 

[brewkinger]

WY 1318 isn't what id describe as "aggressive" either.

Its is a bit less attenuative than most cleaner yeasts, but it is notorious for producing a huge krausen which sometimes never subsides.

Ive had to punch holes in it to bottle and take readings multiple times.

Checking back in at the 14 day ferment point. You were not kidding about that thick krasuen. I poked a sanitized hydrometer at the top and it sounded like I was hitting the bark on a tree. Wierd!!!
Website says it is an example of a true "top cropping yeast" and so now I know what that looks like.

Gonna sanitize a spoon next weekend, scoop and entry path and add dry hop addition #1

 

[Braufessor]

Braufessor what do you think if I add mango to this beer? More fruitiness!

Never tried adding any kind of juice myself.... but, I would think mango would be good. Had a Ballast Point beer the other day that had mango.... that was quite good.

 

[Braufessor]

Just put a citra-columbus- Galaxy in serving keg.
Ciara-Mosaic going into dry hop keg right now.

Bumped both up a bit to around 1.058-1.060. Both tasting great.

Amber Ale version with Centennial-Simcoe-Amarillo will be next one into dry hop keg in two days.

Some kind of IPA on deck for tomorrow. Another Amber..... and then perhaps a Dortmunder Lager and maybe a Saison, maybe a kolsch.... gotta brew a few things besides IPA's now and then

 

[lincolnubrewer]

Amber Ale version with Centennial-Simcoe-Amarillo will be next one into dry hop keg in two days.



Curious about amber ale version. What makes it different? Crystal malts? Did you use the same base recipe and hopping rate, water profile, etc... do you get same hop juiciness?