"Normal" kettle or kettle with valve/weld

[jamnich314]

The only piece of equipment I still need after my first brewing kit is a kettle. I know it's going to be a 9/10 gallon SS kettle but I can't decide if it's worth the extra money to get a welded kettle for a ball valve.

I'm planning on making 5 gallon batches and don't know if the weight of transferring that much liquid to the fermenting bucket will be overwhelming or not. A welded kettle with a ball valve seems much more convenient but it's also about $50 more from what I can tell: $50 for a 10-gal SS kettle, $100 for a 10-gal SS 1-weld kettle AND additional ball valve.

I'm going to use a ground torch/turkey fryer/whatever-you-want-to-call-it to actual boil the wort. Even if I get a kettle with a ball valve, I'll still need to move it to drain the wort into the fermenting bucket (unless I can build some sort of stand to put the burner on) as it won't be high enough. So, if I have to move it anyway, is it that much more of a hassle to pour it into the bucket as opposed to draining from the valve?

 

[ong]

The only piece of equipment I still need after my first brewing kit is a kettle. I know it's going to be a 9/10 gallon SS kettle but I can't decide if it's worth the extra money to get a welded kettle for a ball valve.



I'm planning on making 5 gallon batches and don't know if the weight of transferring that much liquid to the fermenting bucket will be overwhelming or not. A welded kettle with a ball valve seems much more convenient but it's also about $50 more from what I can tell: $50 for a 10-gal SS kettle, $100 for a 10-gal SS 1-weld kettle AND additional ball valve.



I'm going to use a ground torch/turkey fryer/whatever-you-want-to-call-it to actual boil the wort. Even if I get a kettle with a ball valve, I'll still need to move it to drain the wort into the fermenting bucket (unless I can build some sort of stand to put the burner on) as it won't be high enough. So, if I have to move it anyway, is it that much more of a hassle to pour it into the bucket as opposed to draining from the valve?

The big advantage to having a valve, in my opinion, is that you can whirlpool the batch, let it rest for a while, then open the valve to drain to your fermenter and leave most of the trub behind. You can always just drill a hole and use a weldless ball valve... Mine has been going strong for 50 batches or so.

I just use a propane burner on my cement patio, but it's high enough to drain into a carboy (I just tilt the carboy mostly on its side).

 

[Gameface]

The only piece of equipment I still need after my first brewing kit is a kettle. I know it's going to be a 9/10 gallon SS kettle but I can't decide if it's worth the extra money to get a welded kettle for a ball valve.

I'm planning on making 5 gallon batches and don't know if the weight of transferring that much liquid to the fermenting bucket will be overwhelming or not. A welded kettle with a ball valve seems much more convenient but it's also about $50 more from what I can tell: $50 for a 10-gal SS kettle, $100 for a 10-gal SS 1-weld kettle AND additional ball valve.

I'm going to use a ground torch/turkey fryer/whatever-you-want-to-call-it to actual boil the wort. Even if I get a kettle with a ball valve, I'll still need to move it to drain the wort into the fermenting bucket (unless I can build some sort of stand to put the burner on) as it won't be high enough. So, if I have to move it anyway, is it that much more of a hassle to pour it into the bucket as opposed to draining from the valve?

Weldless valves work really well.

Yes, moving the BK is a PITA. I did it for a long time. Glad I don't anymore.

 

[barnaclebob]

You absolutely want a ball valve whether its welded or weldless. My weldless fittings have been working fine.

 

[william_shakes_beer]

You're not going to want to lift a boil kettle. Get the ball valve.

 

[jamnich314]

Thanks for the responses. Now that I look more extensively online, I don't think the price difference is as much as I thought. Do you all think it's worth the extra money to have two welds or is just the one for the valve enough?

I'm holding off on getting a carboy until I'm a few batches in and I know it's a hobby I will continue (which I imagine it will be). They don't cost a whole lot compared to other supplies but I know it's not necessary to begin with. I know I will want to watch all the magic happen during fermentation though.

 

[wardens355]

A ball valve is helpful, but you should probably also invest in a siphon. This will give you the option to use the ball valve or siphon. Siphoning will help if you want to reduce the amount of trub going into your fermenter. One thing to remember is to remove your ball valve, disassemble, and clean periodically, if not after every batch. Gunk will accumulate in there over time (just try holding the valve vertically and exercising it open/close, water and/or gunk with dribble out).

 

[RADMAD]

I use my Autosiphon to transfer my 5 gal batches from the kettle to the fermentor. This gives me pretty good control over how much trub i move. The one downside is this makes for one more item to clean at the end of the day.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

http://www.homebrewing.org/One-Weld-9-Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Pot_p_1683.html

Go buy a stainless 2 peice ball valve for $15 and you have an entire setup for $85.

They are great pots, as thick as any other pot at 18 Gauge(same as Blichmann) and the welds are good.

I used a 9 gallon one for a long time until i found a killer deal on a keggle, now a buddy uses it, another friend has the 15 gallon 2 weld version.

Honestly i wouldnt worry about getting trub and crap in your fermenter, if anything some small scale tests's by people like Brulospher show that having all that trub in your fermenter results in better beer with higher scores from BJCP judges.
http://brulosophy.com/2014/06/02/the-great-trub-exbeeriment-results-are-in/

 

[jamnich314]

http://www.homebrewing.org/One-Weld-9-Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Pot_p_1683.html

Go buy a stainless 2 peice ball valve for $15 and you have an entire setup for $85.

That is the exact kettle I had my eye on. Would a valve like this be adequate?

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

That is the exact kettle I had my eye on. Would a valve like this be adequate?

Yup, just make sure you also get a stainless close nipple to connect them both.
Their both female connections so you need the close nipple to hook them together.

 

[jamnich314]

Yup, just make sure you also get a stainless close nipple to connect them both.
Their both female connections so you need the close nipple to hook them together.

Good catch. I would have had two female ends and lots of disappointment.

 

[wardens355]

I would also consider getting a hex nipple in lieu of the close nipple for ease of disassembly. If you want to transfer with a tube, get a hose barb fitting as well. The best practice for buying new brew stuff is to sketch out what you want and think about all the fittings/components, especially if ordering online. It sucks when you forget something and have to pay a relatively high shipping charge on one component if it is not available for local pickup.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

I would also consider getting a hex nipple in lieu of the close nipple for ease of disassembly. If you want to transfer with a tube, get a hose barb fitting as well. The best practice for buying new brew stuff is to sketch out what you want and think about all the fittings/components, especially if ordering online. It sucks when you forget something and have to pay a relatively high shipping charge on one component if it is not available for local pickup.

This, i take back what i said get a hex nipple.

Nothing is more infuriating then trying to get a nipple out of a kettle or ball valve, i probably spent a good hour doing it once even after buying a stupid nipple extractor kit from Home Depot.

Stick with a hex one for more easy removal, just get one as short as you can as the welds on these pots probably stick out an inch already.

 

[cannman]

Got a few extra bucks for SS?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007V493PG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[jamnich314]

I would also consider getting a hex nipple in lieu of the close nipple for ease of disassembly. If you want to transfer with a tube, get a hose barb fitting as well. The best practice for buying new brew stuff is to sketch out what you want and think about all the fittings/components, especially if ordering online. It sucks when you forget something and have to pay a relatively high shipping charge on one component if it is not available for local pickup.

I saw the hex nipples and figured they would be much easier to remove. The hose barb is also a great idea. Luckily, I live 5 minutes away from a great LHBS that ships to store for free so I should be set on quickly getting a relatively cheap part that I forget.