Hi. I am new to the Brewer's Best brewing, I've done the MrBeer thing quite a few times and loved it so I thought I'd step up to a bigger brew. I bought my equipment from a local liquor store and need to install my own spigots.......does anyone know how far up from the bottom is the recommended height to install? I know it's not critical, just looking for recommendations, as I don't know how much solids will accumulate at the bottom....
Noob question..
- Thread starter thompml
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RandomBeerGuy
Well-Known Member
Bucket Fermenters or just bottling bucket?
wfowlks
Well-Known Member
Do you mean the Local Home brew store, or an actual liquor store? Cuz if its a liquor store that is sweet that they sell home brew stuff there too!
Can you be a little bit more specific with the type of equipment you are talking about. There is lots of stuff you could have bought etc.
And for a primary fermenter, most of the time people just use a bucket with no hole or tap in it. Mr. Beer just does that to cut costs.
The bottling bucket is where the bung normally goes.
bottlebomber
Well-Known Member
I've heard of several liquor stores carrying basic brewing supplies. None around me, but evidently it's not unheard of.
If you plan to bottle, and will be using this bucket for your bottling bucket, then fabricate a dip tube like Revvy recommends:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/bottling-tips-homebrewer-94812/
Then put your hole at the height to match your dip tube. This will permit you to siphon the bucket almost dry. I've thought about making a dip tube that is close to a "U" shape to get it closer to the wall, then a couple of spacers on the opposite side would let you "suck" the bucket almost dry.
So basically the height does not really matter when using a drip tube, since it works just like a racking cane, or auto-siphon (but does not have to go over the bucket lip), and gives you a place to attach your bottling wand, and keeps your siphon in place.
Brew on!
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/bottling-tips-homebrewer-94812/
Then put your hole at the height to match your dip tube. This will permit you to siphon the bucket almost dry. I've thought about making a dip tube that is close to a "U" shape to get it closer to the wall, then a couple of spacers on the opposite side would let you "suck" the bucket almost dry.
So basically the height does not really matter when using a drip tube, since it works just like a racking cane, or auto-siphon (but does not have to go over the bucket lip), and gives you a place to attach your bottling wand, and keeps your siphon in place.
Brew on!
I'm starting with a "beginner" American Light, then moving on to a Vienna Lager.....
wfowlks
Well-Known Member
A lager?! Just make sure you are able to keep the fermentation down to 50ish degrees, and then for the lagering around 40.
wfowlks
Well-Known Member
The yeast manufacturers suggest pitching at 70 degrees for ale yeast and around 50 for Lager. At 100 F you risk burning a few of the little guys who are trying to make your alcohol.
Wouldn't want that. Got it. Do you suggest I buy a chiller? My main adviser on this says not to, he says just use the sink with ice, etc..... I'm chilling literally as I'm typing, it's been 40 minutes and I'm below 80 but I've run myself out of ice....
tonyolympia
Well-Known Member
Get a chiller. It saves so much time and effort.
wfowlks
Well-Known Member
I made my own. And it has been completely worth it. I can cool 10 gallon batches in about 20 min. It also helps the beer to clarify.
If you want to make your own, I would suggest using the 50 feet in case you opt to go for bigger batches later on down the road.
Go to lowes or Home Depot, and buy 50 feet of 3/8" copper tubing. Here is the Lowes model number:
Mueller 3/8" x 50' Refrigeration Coil
Item #: 4182 | Model #: D 06050PS,
It will be around the $60 range
Then take it and just wrap it around an empty corning keg (If you don't have one a Paint bucket will do. Just something round. Then get some 3/8" PVC platic tubing, Clamp it on with the 50 cent clamps and run cold water through it. It beats the 40 min - 1 hr that the ice bath takes.
If you want to make your own, I would suggest using the 50 feet in case you opt to go for bigger batches later on down the road.
Go to lowes or Home Depot, and buy 50 feet of 3/8" copper tubing. Here is the Lowes model number:
Mueller 3/8" x 50' Refrigeration Coil
Item #: 4182 | Model #: D 06050PS,
It will be around the $60 range
Then take it and just wrap it around an empty corning keg (If you don't have one a Paint bucket will do. Just something round. Then get some 3/8" PVC platic tubing, Clamp it on with the 50 cent clamps and run cold water through it. It beats the 40 min - 1 hr that the ice bath takes.
Welcome!!! IME, if you want to get the wort below ~60 in any reasonable time, you'll either need a chiller or a lot of ice. I use the ice bath method, in an old cast iron bathtub that holds temp really well, and I need 20+ lbs of ice to chill to the low 60s for ales, and at least 30 lbs to chill into the 50s, more in the summer, less in the winter to to ground temperature.
I know this'll sound like one of those "duh!" things,but I chill in the sink by filling the empty space with ice first. Then top off with cold water. I've gotten down to 70F in 20 minutes. I buy the 22lb bags of ice. Maybe use half to two thirds.
Thank you all for the advice. I need more now - I think I may have bought the wrong hydrometer... it's a Proof and Tralle which is for distilled alcohol products. Damn. It's not reading anything, floating too high..... I just grabbed the first one I saw in the store....didn't know there was a diff. 1) What is the correct hydrometer to use? 2) I just brewed and put in the fermenter with lid & air lock. The only drawback to not having the right hydrometer is that I won't have a OG, right? and won't be able to tell alcohol content..?
wfowlks
Well-Known Member
What you got was a Proof Hydrometer.
I have this one:
http://stores.mdhb.com/-strse-160/Triple-Scale-Hydrometer-for/Detail.bok
I later switched to a refractometer, because I don't waste as much beer when sampling. You only need a few drops as opposed to the 6-8 oz for the hydrometer.
Refractometer:
http://stores.mdhb.com/-strse-1496/Refractometer-w-fdsh-SpecificGravity/Detail.bok
However, you used an extract kit, and you will be able to calculate the OG and %ABV pretty accurately unless you messed something up.
I have this one:
http://stores.mdhb.com/-strse-160/Triple-Scale-Hydrometer-for/Detail.bok
I later switched to a refractometer, because I don't waste as much beer when sampling. You only need a few drops as opposed to the 6-8 oz for the hydrometer.
Refractometer:
http://stores.mdhb.com/-strse-1496/Refractometer-w-fdsh-SpecificGravity/Detail.bok
However, you used an extract kit, and you will be able to calculate the OG and %ABV pretty accurately unless you messed something up.
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