Nolanbrau Returns

[robertus]

Getting ready to get back into the hobby after a long time off. Better, I'm making the jump to all grain, thanks to an infusion of Christmas and Birthday gift cards. First beer up is Edwort's Pale Ale. Got back from the LHBS a couple hours ago with the ingredients, just need to find time and water and I'm off to the races.

 

[IslandLizard]

Good to hear you're back to brewing again, and going all-in with all-grain!

How are you mashing? BIAB or a converted cooler?

Water
Are you using RO water from the machine at Walmart? That's the easiest, at $0.39 a gallon, bring your own containers.

Not sure if your water comes from the same company as Columbia, their water is fine for most beers using a little acidification.
You could call your water company and ask to speak to someone at quality control. Then ask for the water sources they use, and if and how they change during seasons, and most importantly, the mineral composition of your tap water.
The minerals we brewers are mostly interested in are:

Calcium (Ca++)
Magnesium (Mg++)
Sodium (Na+)
Sulfate (SO4--)
Chloride (Cl–)
Bicarbonate / Alkalinity​

In short: Ca, Mg, Na, K, Cl-, SO4--, and Alkalinity. They're usually given in ppm (mg/l), but verify.

Always treat your municipal sourced brewing water with 1/4 Campden tablet or a good pinch of K-meta (per 5 gallons) to remove the Chlorine/Chloramines.

 

[Section1]

Glad to see you are brewing again. It's a great hobby and you can enjoy what you make. Let us know what you brew first.

 

[robertus]

How are you mashing? BIAB or a converted cooler?

Converted Igloo cooler with a false bottom.

Are you using RO water from the machine at Walmart?

I usually use Deer Park from the Costco. Six packs of gallons for like four bucks. The Washington Suburban *coughmumblemumble*publishes a water quality report somewhat annually, though I confess that's a bit above my pay grade, and I've not gotten into futzing with the water. I'm still trying to figure out which end of the cooler the water goes into

 

[IslandLizard]

The Washington Suburban *coughmumblemumble*publishes a water quality report somewhat annually,

That's their EPA regulated annual health report. It mentions Na at a range of 10-20 ppm. Nothing else that's interesting to us, brewers.

You're on the Patuxent side. Since it's river water, there will be seasonal changes, like more salt after snow melts. They can give you the mineral content, they have them, weekly if not daily. I wish all water companies published them on their website, weekly or monthly would be very acceptable.

I'm still trying to figure out which end of the cooler the water goes into

Now you mention it... Although it may sound against common sense, water would be best going in through the valve on the bottom while the milled grain is waiting in the tun already. "Underletting" the mash is one of the (small) changes in techniques for LoDO brewers.

 

[robertus]

Took advantage of the nice weather this afternoon and brewed my first all-grain. Things went really smoothly. Couple of rookie mistakes and miscalculations (thirsty grains and a bigger-than-normal boil off), so I wound up with 4 gallons at the end of the day. Now I know better for next time.

 

[IslandLizard]

Took advantage of the nice weather this afternoon and brewed my first all-grain. Things went really smoothly. Couple of rookie mistakes and miscalculations (thirsty grains and a bigger-than-normal boil off), so I wound up with 4 gallons at the end of the day. Now I know better for next time.

Congrats! Time well spent.
You don't need to boil like crazy, turning it down to a good simmer (surface rippling) is plenty.

If your mash efficiency is as projected and you come up short on volume you can always top up with water. Either during the boil or at the very end, to get to your intended OG. Or just enjoy the bit stronger beer.

I find after-boil wort volume the most expendable of all parameters. I'd rather have my gravity close to where the recipe calculated it, within 3-5 points either way, the closer the better of course. Half a gallon to a gallon more or less volume is not a big deal.

That said, if you're kegging, you really don't want an overage. So 5.5 gallon in the fermenter is about the max when counting on 1/2 gallon of trub loss when racking to the keg. If you anticipate a gallon of trub loss in the fermenter, 6 gallons would be the max. If there happens to be any overage, you can always bottle the remainder. If using soda bottles they can be force carbonated using a carbonation cap. Or drink the flat beer.