NEWB PID diy Help

[Bigtex2884]

Im looking for a simple PID wiring diagram. I recently just installed a 240v 30a GFI breaker and ran a 4 prong (dryer) outlet into my garage (red,black,white,ground). Im going to run one 5500w heating element. I used 10/3 for my wiring.

I was hoping someone could link me to or submit a diagram to create a PID. I was going to get a. TA4-SSR and a 40a ssr-da with heatsink.

 

[doug293cz]

The TA series of PID's are not suitable for boil control, because they do not have a manual mode. I highly recommend using Auber EZBoil controllers vs. ordinary PID's. Here's about the simplest design that I consider safe enough to use.

I have other schematics if you want to run a pump from the same control box.

Brew on

 

[bigtex2884_EFk]

It’s safe to hook up a 110 outlet and a 220 from the same feed?

 

[doug293cz]

Yes, if done correctly. It may need to be done in a stand-alone control box in order to meet code. You probably can't connect a 120V outlet and 240V outlet on the same circuit with the structure wiring.

Brew on

 

[bstacy1974]

I'm currently doing the same thing. Doug has great, easy to follow diagrams. I'll be using the one he's referring to with the 120v pump outlet, with a small modification; adding contractors rather than the 30amp switches.

 

[Bigtex2884]

Quick question. When installing the 240v 30a GFI breaker into my box. Does the white pigtail from the breaker go to the neutral bar or ground bar?

 

[day_trippr]

Technically, the neutral bar...

Cheers!

 

[Bigtex2884]

Well I guess it will have to wait u till tomorrow. I ordered a gfi breaker but what arrived today does not have the pigtail on it and now where to attach my own. Grrr amazon.

 

[bstacy1974]

I installed my spa panel this weekend. After all the connections were made, I pressed the test button on the breaker. It didn't trip.
Disconnected everything and took it back to Lowes. Guy at the desk asked me what was wrong. I explained the test button didn't make the breaker trip and I was uncomfortable using it, as it's a safety device.
As he was typing up the reason for the return, he says, "So, the breaker didn't break?" Yes sir, the breaker didn't break. [emoji16]

 

[mike neff]

With very little electrical expierence I was able to build a panel running a 5500 watt element and one pump from Dougs diagrams. I have at least 50 batches and it’s been great. I would also recommend the ezboil it’s so easy to use. Having a spare probe wire is a good idea as the only problem I have had was one went bad mid boil and they seem to be the weak point of the system.
Thanks Doug

 

[Bigtex2884]

The TA series of PID's are not suitable for boil control, because they do not have a manual mode. I highly recommend using Auber EZBoil controllers vs. ordinary PID's. Here's about the simplest design that I consider safe enough to use.

View attachment 665800

I have other schematics if you want to run a pump from the same control box.

Brew on

for the 1amp fuses. Will auto blade style fuses work or should I be using a different style?

 

[doug293cz]

for the 1amp fuses. Will auto blade style fuses work or should I be using a different style?

The automotive style fuses are probably not rated for 120V/240V, but will probably work. These applications usually use the tubular "Buss" style fuses.

Brew on

 

[Bigtex2884]

All right the old school small glass tube style it is.

 

[mike neff]

If you haven’t purchased your element yet I would get a weldless tri clamp or a plug in from brew hardware. Mine is wired directly to the element and it’s a pita to clean the kettle with 6 ft of heavy duty wire attached.

 

[highland_brewer]

Don't know if this will help with it or not.But Doug provided me with some diagrams for a video series I did.

 

[Bigtex2884]

So all wired up and appears to be working. Just got my keg back from having the washer welded on and I screwed in the element wired it up and turned it on to do a quick tear. It Heated up very quickly. Now this was a test so I didn’t fill it with water and after about 30sec of it being on the 30a gfci breaker in the panel tripped. I let it cool down a bit reset it and turned it back on for a bit and it didn’t trip this time but I only had it on for about 15 sec.

Is that normal for it to trip if there is no water to cool the element a bit.

5500w element on 240v.

also is there a small amp meter anyone would suggest to add to the diagram above? Thanks.

 

[Bigtex2884]

Test

 

[doug293cz]

Overheating the element, by having it on out of water, can cause internal shorts, or partial shorts, to ground. These will cause the GFCI to trip. A partial short may start out at a high enough resistance to keep the leakage to ground less than around 5 milliamps. But, as the element heats up, the resistance of the partial short can go down, thus increasing the leakage current. Once the leakage current goes over about 5 mA, the GFCI will trip.

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

Auber makes a few amp meters and combo amp/voltage meters of different sizes. Here's a diagram that shows how a combo meter can be wired into a control panel.

Brew on

 

[Bigtex2884]

So essentially I can just order the DVA-120 and tap onto both 120 lines for the voltage part and then put the ring around one of the 120 lines for The amperage reading with my existing setup

 

[doug293cz]

So essentially I can just order the DVA-120 and tap onto both 120 lines for the voltage part and then put the ring around one of the 120 lines for The amperage reading with my existing setup

Yes. Just make sure that you pick voltage source points that are on whenever you want the meter to be working.

Brew on

 

[Bigtex2884]

Appreciate everyone’s input. She’s not the prettiest but not bad for my first one. Next time I’ll get a little bit bigger of a box. Tomorrow I’ll be adding the V/A meter so it should fill that blank nicely.

 

[Adrian Gresores]

The TA series of PID's are not suitable for boil control, because they do not have a manual mode. I highly recommend using Auber EZBoil controllers vs. ordinary PID's. Here's about the simplest design that I consider safe enough to use.

View attachment 665800

I have other schematics if you want to run a pump from the same control box.

Brew on

I would love to see your wiring diagram that includes a pump. Also, what's your opinion on the REX C100 PID? Thanks.

 

[doug293cz]

Not a fan of the REX PID's I've seen too many reports of issues with them. If you want to go cheap, then the lowest I would use is a MyPin TD4. I still recommend spending a few extra bucks and going with the EZBoil DSPR120.

Here is the simplest circuit I can recommend for one element and one pump. A TD4 can be substituted for the DSPR120, but the terminal assignments are different, so you need to wire appropriately.

Here is a circuit that has some built in protection from user error in the form of a "Safe Start" interlock. The interlock prevents you from turning on the main power unless both the pump switch and element power enable switch are off. You can use a DSPR120 instead of the DSPR320, and they have the same terminal assignments (except the 120 doesn't have the alarm relays.) I highly recommend this as the "best" design for a single element, single pump control panel.

Brew on

 

[Adrian Gresores]

Thanks so much. By chance, do you have any recommendation for the size of an enclosure for your 2nd design with the Safe Start interlocks? Also, would this work for the 30A contactors: https://amzn.to/2AcAq6L?

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks so much. By chance, do you have any recommendation for the size of an enclosure for your 2nd design with the Safe Start interlocks? Also, would this work for the 30A contactors: https://amzn.to/2AcAq6L?

Yes, that contactor is fine. And no, I haven't done a detailed analysis of the physical layout/volume required, as it depends to some extent on the exact component choices of the builder.

Brew on