Kris Brew
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2018
- Messages
- 25
- Reaction score
- 10
Hi all,
Soo, I have just been gifted some new equipment, I have an ACE 30l 2.5kw hot water boiler which has been adapted with a half inch ball tap and a false bottom. Plus a peco mash bucket which I plan for my sparge water.
I want to make this recirculating for the mash with a 12v DC pump from the ball tap back up through the lid. I'm planning to put a bucket in as you can see from the picture and raise this by a few inches from the false bottom. Thinking a 200 micron stainless steel mesh in the bottom of the bucket(bucket will have large holes in the base) which I am hoping will work well and will help to produce clear wort.(would use the bucket lid with holes in it on top of the grain bed to help stop disturbing)
I am going to install a ink bird PID and 25a SSR externally to replace the current thermostat so I hopefully get a super consistent mash temp and easily maintain boil which at the moment I have leave the dial turned up to full and if I have to dial it back will switch off for a minute or so before turning back on.
From what I can find a PT100 RTD is better than a thermocouple for both accuracy and longevity, plus I can find one which has a 4 pin plug so I can completely detach the control box when I am finished. I was thinking the best placement would be between the false bottom and the bucket...
Any opinions on what I could change/do differently? Should I find some sort of voltage regulator for the element so I can turn the power down for the boil etc...?
My thoughts are the PID and pump equipment can be re-used in the next larger build so don't really have anything to lose money wise as I want to go full electric and currently have a gas keggle, biab setup.
Anything will be appreciated!
Cheers all.
Soo, I have just been gifted some new equipment, I have an ACE 30l 2.5kw hot water boiler which has been adapted with a half inch ball tap and a false bottom. Plus a peco mash bucket which I plan for my sparge water.
I want to make this recirculating for the mash with a 12v DC pump from the ball tap back up through the lid. I'm planning to put a bucket in as you can see from the picture and raise this by a few inches from the false bottom. Thinking a 200 micron stainless steel mesh in the bottom of the bucket(bucket will have large holes in the base) which I am hoping will work well and will help to produce clear wort.(would use the bucket lid with holes in it on top of the grain bed to help stop disturbing)
I am going to install a ink bird PID and 25a SSR externally to replace the current thermostat so I hopefully get a super consistent mash temp and easily maintain boil which at the moment I have leave the dial turned up to full and if I have to dial it back will switch off for a minute or so before turning back on.
From what I can find a PT100 RTD is better than a thermocouple for both accuracy and longevity, plus I can find one which has a 4 pin plug so I can completely detach the control box when I am finished. I was thinking the best placement would be between the false bottom and the bucket...
Any opinions on what I could change/do differently? Should I find some sort of voltage regulator for the element so I can turn the power down for the boil etc...?
My thoughts are the PID and pump equipment can be re-used in the next larger build so don't really have anything to lose money wise as I want to go full electric and currently have a gas keggle, biab setup.
Anything will be appreciated!
Cheers all.
