NEIPA Super long lasting Hazy Tips

[acroporabrewer]

I'm trying to work on my NEIPA but I don't seem to get it exactly the way I want it to come out. The brew comes out tasting great and everybody loves it but I call it a Hazy IPA because is isn't super cloudy and the haze goes away after a few weeks. All of my beers get really clear towards the end of the keg anyways so this isn't surprising but I am looking to avoid this for this particular style. I don't want to have to turn the keg over ever few days to keep the haze.

Does anybody have any tips? I've taken a screen shot of my grain bill and dry hopping. I also add some gypsum and campden tablets too. Yeast is 1318. My brews are 10 gallon batches. This style is dry hopped on day 3 and is kegged on day 14. No secondary, just primary and keg. I've thought about putting a few tbs of flour in it. I know that is a gamble but I feel like I am running out of options. The look I am going for is super duper hazy and yellowish orange. Any tips?


Edit: the whirlpool is at 170, not 130 like the screen shot shows

 

[Biscuits]

Assuming that your fermentation period is 12 days, everything looks okay. In my experience, biotransformation hopping has kept my NEIPAs hazy for months...I have one in the keg now thats been sitting there for over 4 months, and while it has brightened, it is by no means clear.

It looks like you have a TON of wheat malts in there. It is possible that with that much protein it could be interfering with biotrans, and also causing everything to settle out. IMO, I would stick closer to a 80% base malt 20% oat/wheat and see if that improves things.

 

[Andrew Hodgson]

Jump into the rabbit hole of NEIPA's.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/page-171#post-8352982

 

[JimRausch]

It looks like you have a TON of wheat malts in there. It is possible that with that much protein it could be interfering with biotrans, and also causing everything to settle out. IMO, I would stick closer to a 80% base malt 20% oat/wheat and see if that improves things.

This was my thought as well- with 35.8% of the grain bill flaked wheat and oats, there may be too much protein. Soluble protein eventually combines with hop phenols to produce heavier substances that sink (I need to look up the actual chemistry, but it is well outlined somewhere on the forum)

 

[Upthewazzu]

I'd get rid of the flaked wheat entirely. Or at least halve both flaked oats. Also get rid of the 60 minute addition (possibly just move it to flame-out).

 

[bigdawg86]

I may consider doing a NEIPA with TYB Voss Kviek. Its a great yeast and stays hazy forever

 

[couchsending]

You only need maximum 5% flaked adjuncts for haze, if any at all.

Don’t dry hop until after krausen has fallen. If you want to do two dry hops do the last one with as little yeast in the beer as possible. Either transferring to another vessel or crashing and pulling yeast if you have a conical. The last Dry Hop should be the largest. If you want insane aroma you need to dry hop with minimal yeast still in suspension.

The more yeast you leave in the beer, the more likely to pull down the goodness when it floccs and the more likely your beer is to clear. Sounds counter intuitive but it’s true.

The top breweries producing this style have centrifuges to remove as much yeast as they can to ensure more stable haze.

 

[acroporabrewer]

There is so much good info here. Thank you so much for the guidance. My goal is to get this beer to almost look like a glass of paint. There are a couple of breweries locally and plenty of pics on Instagram that shows the almost un natural looking haze. I've always wondered how that is achieved.

I went back and looked at a recipe that I did a few batches ago and I had the same issue although there was much less oats and wheat. The mouth fill was there and I was very pleased with the hops but this beer came out clear after a few weeks in the keg. That was actually why I bumped up the oats and wheat in the batch that i posted earlier. Besides cutting out the vienna, I am wonder if I am adding hops too early. That makes sense about the yeast crash taking hops to the tun with it. So should I wait to dry hop on day 7 - 14? Usually the London III yeast is finished by day 10 but I leave it in the primary until day 14 because that's my brew schedule.

 

[MrPowers]

What is your water profile?

Edit: Also, have you tried doing larger whirlpool additions at a higher temperature. The NEIPA I just made last sunday used 12oz in the whirlpool and 14oz in the dry hop (which I'm still not sure is enough). It was brilliantly clear until I added the whirlpool additions, then it really clouded up.

 

[Biscuits]

14oz in the dry hop? good god! IS this for a 5 gallon batch? I think I use something like 12 ounces TOTAL for 5 gallons.

 

[MrPowers]

14oz in the dry hop? good god! IS this for a 5 gallon batch? I think I use something like 12 ounces TOTAL for 5 gallons.

Sorry, 10 gallon batch. Since the OP was talking about 10 gallon batches, i spaced off batch size.

I've done 10 gallon batches before with a single pound of various varieties to test different hop varieties (10oz in whirlpool, 6oz dry hop) and the results have been great, but they definitely do not have anywhere near the hop aroma that a fresh can of Toppling Goliath has. Even utilizing closed transfer's and/or low oxygen cold side practices.