Need help replacing beer lines

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Carolina_Matt

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I bought a keezer, and I'm getting a lot of foam. Some of the lines are 5 feet, some are shorter, so I bought 50 feet of new lines with the intention of putting 10 foot lines on each tap.

Here's what the existing line looks like. What is the piece that the line is connecting to? It's a thin piece of metal that seems to be holding it in place, but it's not like the clamps that I've seen elsewhere. I can't seem to figure out how to remove it from the nut that's attached to the disconnect. I've tried pulling it apart, as well as turning it, to no avail. And since I don't know what that piece is called, I haven't been able to successfully search google for an answer.
 

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That's a crimp around a conventional barb/swivel female flare connector.
If you want to reuse the connectors you need to hack off those crimps, then use either worm clamps or Oetiker clamps to fasten the new lines.
You should be able to tear into those things using a strong side-cutting dike...

Cheers!
 
Thanks! I wound up tearing into it and getting down to the connector. It worked, but took forever. I'll probably just buy 14 new connectors (2 for each remaining tap) since they're $1.29 each at my local store. Much better than spending an hour trying to re-use the existing ones :)

I got this one up and running, and it definitely poured a lot better.
 
sort of related but something I didnt know,
from what I just read in another thread. Most kegerators are set up for sankes with much larger diameter spears in them makes them more forgiving with shorter lines. when using cornies kegs with narrow diptubes longer lines are needed.
 
I don't understand how a wider dip tube allows shorter beer lines. If anything you'd think even longer lines would be needed to compensate for lower dip tube resistance..

Cheers!
 
I don't understand how a wider dip tube allows shorter beer lines. If anything you'd think even longer lines would be needed to compensate for lower dip tube resistance..

Cheers!
I dont know but there are a few people who claim that its made a large difference for them when they switched to sankes. I have an uncle with a kegerator that pours great with a sanke despite the 5 ft beer line (as most come with and are used with sankes).... I had no such luck with a variety of sized beer lines until I went with longer lines.
 
I use sanke's for my homebrew. I cannot do a 5' line with my homebrew or commercial beers. I have a 12' small ID line and a tower chiller...that's the only way I can pour without getting mostly foam.
 
A Dremel tool with a cutting wheel makes quick work of them.
Yeah, that occurred to me a few hours after my last post. I've had a Dremel in my garage for over a year, and never used it. Had to look on YouTube to figure it out, but once I got it up and running, it went right through the metal. That was significantly faster than using an old, dull side cutter.
 
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