Need Help finding burners

[calebstringer]

Hi guys,

In the process of building a Brutus clone. Going to be rocking three 20 gallon Boilermakers, and brewing 10-15 gallon batches.

Im having alot of problems locating Low Pressure burners in the 100k btu range. I have a 250 gallon tank I will teeing off of, hence, the need for LP. HP is out of the question because the tank is on the opposite side of the house, and I do not want to have to install a second regulator, and then plumb a new line all the way to the brewhaus. If it was next to the brewhaus, then HP would be fine....but it is what it is.

Can you point me in the right direction? looking for three 100k's, that arent an arm and a leg please.

Thanks!

Caleb

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

Since you already have Blichmann pots, how about Blichmann burners? Do a little drill out and they run fine off of low pressure.

Bob

 

[kladue]

For the HLT and Boil kettle these are the most used http://www.agrisupply.com/bg-high-pressure-cast-iron-burner/p/64494/, conversion valves for low pressure http://www.brewershardware.com/Valve-and-LPG-Orifice-for-BURN10.html.
For the MLT you need a smaller burner to prevent scorching http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cast-low-pressure-multi-hole-btu-dia/p/40282/, a conversion valve if needed http://bayouclassicdepot.com/615-control-valve-brass-fitting.htm.

 

[calebstringer]

Hi

Since you already have Blichmann pots, how about Blichmann burners? Do a little drill out and they run fine off of low pressure.

Bob

Alot of my cash went to shiny things!

For the HLT and Boil kettle these are the most used http://www.agrisupply.com/bg-high-pressure-cast-iron-burner/p/64494/, conversion valves for low pressure http://www.brewershardware.com/Valve-and-LPG-Orifice-for-BURN10.html.
For the MLT you need a smaller burner to prevent scorching http://www.agrisupply.com/burner-cast-low-pressure-multi-hole-btu-dia/p/40282/, a conversion valve if needed http://bayouclassicdepot.com/615-control-valve-brass-fitting.htm.

Thanks kladue! So with running those burners as LP instead of HP, how would I calculate the BTU output, or is that even necessary?

 

[Docgineer]

Theoretically 100k, they are 220k on high pressure. This all assumes your regulator has the throughput for the demand. You'll never be running all 3 burners at full tilt though so you don't need one that does 300k. Most people round here use a 160k version. Some have one 100k LP reg for each burner at the manifold and a HP primary at the tank.

 

[kladue]

With low pressure propane the 10" output about 80,000 max, enough for the brewing job, more fire under a 16" wide pot is wasting time with flames burning up the sides of the pot. There are quite a few Brutus clones out there that use these burners with good results, a few using high pressure, a few using natural gas, but most using low pressure propane.
One thing to check before going much further is the low pressure supply regulator for the house, and the distribution line size for capacity to run house and brewing system at the same time. Not a good idea to overload the propane distribution system for the house while brewing and have a propane appliance malfunction due to low inlet pressure.
If you plan to automate the HLT and/or the MLT burners, the honeywell VR8200 series standing pilot valves are the lowest cost safe way to go, about $80 a burner with valve, pilot, and thermocouple. There are other methods of hot surface and spark ignition valves/systems that work well but are more expensive to purchase.
Skip using single solenoids as you will probably end up with an unpleasant blast if pilot is not burning when valve opens.

 

[calebstringer]

Thanks! Sounds like I'll be ordering those.

I know kladue posted two separate control valves, but won't the irst one work for both the big burner and the small? ( http://www.brewershardware.com/Valve-and-LPG-Orifice-for-BURN10.html )

 

[kladue]

The 10" burner has 1/4" NPT tap for orifice/valve fitting, the 6" has a 1/8" NPT tapping, so you need 2 different size outlet valves to fit correctly.

 

[calebstringer]

The 10" burner has 1/4" NPT tap for orifice/valve fitting, the 6" has a 1/8" NPT tapping, so you need 2 different size outlet valves to fit correctly.

Ooooohhh. Thanks! I looked and looked but didn't see any size specs. Although, that doesn't mean anything.

 

[kladue]

Since you are doing flat bottom pots, make a "Star" out of 1" X 1/4" material to support bottom and vent hot gasses from burners so they will burn clean, something like this https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.ladue/OldBrewingSystem#5259648248535297282.

 

[Riddei]

THIS is the exact thread I've been looking for! So much info for a question I didn't actually ask

 

[calebstringer]

Since you are doing flat bottom pots, make a "Star" out of 1" X 1/4" material to support bottom and vent hot gasses from burners so they will burn clean, something like this https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.ladue/OldBrewingSystem#5259648248535297282.

My game plan is to build a stand real similar to Chris Knights...

Thats what Im looking at doing for the kettle supports. There will be 12" gap in between the pedestals

 

[calebstringer]

Burners and valves ordered!

 

[NectarGuy]

I just finished my brutus 10 build and did a few test runs with water. I am using 10" banjo burners with a low pressure regulator and low pressure orifice and 20 gal blichmann boilermakers. It took me over an hour to heat 10 gal of water from 60 degrees to 200 degrees. Does this seem right? Seems too long to me.

 

[Docgineer]

Nope, what's the capacity of your regulator and are the kettles raised up off the frame such that you get good airflow to the flames?

 

[NectarGuy]

I have the 11" WC regulator. The flame looks pretty strong but I could not turn it on full power without flames going up the side of the kettle and out from under the frame top. Would it be a big difference if the kettles were raised off the surface a little bit or would flames still go up the side of the kettle at full power?

Here's a picture of the flame: