mypin ta6 wiring
- Thread starter mytmic
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
If this link doesn't help you will need to learn more than I can possibly type here any time soon. If you are in or near St Pete, FL I am available.
LINK: http://www.tradekr.com/cbuy_2980489_2011-ta-series-pid.htm
LINK: http://www.tradekr.com/cbuy_2980489_2011-ta-series-pid.htm
Or this link seems better;
http://www.mypinchina.com/uploadfiles/201161494651265.pdf
Also, TC is thermocouple, ssr and al1 are for a relay. Power is power...
I am at a loss though to say anymore as your question would require a very long involved answer depending on what you are making and what you are using as a heat source. I use a power supply with this kind of device for shrink wrapping machines.
http://www.mypinchina.com/uploadfiles/201161494651265.pdf
Also, TC is thermocouple, ssr and al1 are for a relay. Power is power...
I am at a loss though to say anymore as your question would require a very long involved answer depending on what you are making and what you are using as a heat source. I use a power supply with this kind of device for shrink wrapping machines.
An even better set of instructions:
http://www.sanyoutech.com/UploadProductPic/200991715182749860.pdf
http://www.sanyoutech.com/UploadProductPic/200991715182749860.pdf
Okay, I have been successful in setting up these Mypin controllers using 2 different K-type thermocouple designs. If mytmic or anyone else is still stuck on how to set this kind of controller up let me know and I can be clearer about what to connect where. For now I am going to assume there is enough info in the past posts unless I hear otherwise.
Quazimoto. I have the connections for the power wired thusly. its a TA4 btw
1 and 2 is a/c in 120v
3 and 4 are the SSR which BTW are marked backwards between the two. the #3 on the PID is the neg. and the #4 is the pos...vice versa on the SSR.
7 and 8 connect to the TC, they are wired where more heat increases the readout so they are correct as well. my question is this.
when I wire the power supply (120V) I split the black wire and connect it to the number 1 and 2 on the SSR. correct? I seem to be missing something. My heater element is wired through the SSR AC side still no power. Im at a loss, short of driving my happy buttocks to St Pete, im in lee county, or skyping I cant see this working. I may go get the auberins because there are detailed wiring diagrams on this.
Time for a pity party for me, im tired of commercial beer.
Michael
1 and 2 is a/c in 120v
3 and 4 are the SSR which BTW are marked backwards between the two. the #3 on the PID is the neg. and the #4 is the pos...vice versa on the SSR.
7 and 8 connect to the TC, they are wired where more heat increases the readout so they are correct as well. my question is this.
when I wire the power supply (120V) I split the black wire and connect it to the number 1 and 2 on the SSR. correct? I seem to be missing something. My heater element is wired through the SSR AC side still no power. Im at a loss, short of driving my happy buttocks to St Pete, im in lee county, or skyping I cant see this working. I may go get the auberins because there are detailed wiring diagrams on this.
Time for a pity party for me, im tired of commercial beer.
Michael
Hi
Okay here is what I think you are not doing; Take the "hot" side of the 115 volt lead to the first lead at the SSR and then take a second lead from the second lead of the ssr to the heater. The "ground" or return side of the 115 volt system should not be interrupted by any switch, but go straight to the plug in the wall. The idea is that when the current from the thermocouple drops then it turns the power on via ssr to the heater. By leads on the sr I mean the high voltage side leads not the low dc voltage side powered by output from the Mypin controller. There is no right side or wrong side when hooking AC current to the high power side by the way... all that matters is that you have the ssr where it can interrupt current flow.
The thermocouple is red to #10 on the mypin controller and the green lead goes to #9. #7 and #8 is to the SSR or solid state relay as in the photo I added in a post below. You may use AL1 also for the relay, but I advise you stick with the original settings advised by the Mypin instruction sheet. AL1 is usually used as a out to relay for an alarm...
Alarm one (1) and if I had time I would explain why this matters to you... if you ever want to be warned when things go awry and you are not watching for example AND you did not want to find out something went opps several hours ago when it is too \late for your batch to be saved from any bacterial ick.
The only clearer way to show you is via pics which I can do with my project... Will that help?
Okay here is what I think you are not doing; Take the "hot" side of the 115 volt lead to the first lead at the SSR and then take a second lead from the second lead of the ssr to the heater. The "ground" or return side of the 115 volt system should not be interrupted by any switch, but go straight to the plug in the wall. The idea is that when the current from the thermocouple drops then it turns the power on via ssr to the heater. By leads on the sr I mean the high voltage side leads not the low dc voltage side powered by output from the Mypin controller. There is no right side or wrong side when hooking AC current to the high power side by the way... all that matters is that you have the ssr where it can interrupt current flow.
The thermocouple is red to #10 on the mypin controller and the green lead goes to #9. #7 and #8 is to the SSR or solid state relay as in the photo I added in a post below. You may use AL1 also for the relay, but I advise you stick with the original settings advised by the Mypin instruction sheet. AL1 is usually used as a out to relay for an alarm...
Alarm one (1) and if I had time I would explain why this matters to you... if you ever want to be warned when things go awry and you are not watching for example AND you did not want to find out something went opps several hours ago when it is too \late for your batch to be saved from any bacterial ick.
The only clearer way to show you is via pics which I can do with my project... Will that help?
By the way... you do have a heat sink on the SSR right? If not you will burn it out. If you do not know what I am talking about I will need to add some photos... I have tried to load a photo below, but I need to put it on the 'net and then link it. So I have a huge hosted account that I can do almost anything with... I will post the link below, but it may take some time for me to get it in the hosted area. If you read this and try the link AND if the link is not working check back in a hour or so....
The link I will use is; www.ai-portal.net/beer/DSC09430.JPG
Ha-Ha! I am easily amused huh? Just in case I will try to post below, note that where I have 115 volts this is the lead with 115 volts, by this I mean screw number two (2). To Heater is the lead to the heater, or screw #1 (one). The "Ground" or return "white" wire goes to the wall, circuit box, etc and as such is not shown in the photo. I am assuming you are using black and white wires and to be safe a green wire to go to the green screw inside most receptacle boxes. If you do not know what I am talking about... you should stop now and get an electrician before you kill yourself, really... please stop as I have known several guys to get killed and one lost a child due to poor understanding of what he was doing... Beer... no matter how great, is NOT worth dying for. That said, let's continue.... after checking your health policy of course...
For what it is worth... you can switch or reverse the way I connected this relay, it will not matter. By this I mean you can have power to the side I called heater and heater on the side I called 115 volts. YOU DO NOT USE THE LOW POWER SIDE TO CONNECT 115 VOLTS OR THE HEATER! The low power side in the photo is the lower connectors with the red and the yellow leads.
NOTE: The red wire at the bottom of the SSR? This comes from the Mypin controller #7 and the yellow wire is from the Mypin controller #8. This is the low amp DC output generated due to output from the thermocouple. When the temps are too low then the field in this ssr is turned on which causes a connection across the high voltage side of the SSR.
I am beginning to think a nice video explaining some basic electronics may be a really good idea... I may just make one and post it here somewhere.
The link I will use is; www.ai-portal.net/beer/DSC09430.JPG
Ha-Ha! I am easily amused huh? Just in case I will try to post below, note that where I have 115 volts this is the lead with 115 volts, by this I mean screw number two (2). To Heater is the lead to the heater, or screw #1 (one). The "Ground" or return "white" wire goes to the wall, circuit box, etc and as such is not shown in the photo. I am assuming you are using black and white wires and to be safe a green wire to go to the green screw inside most receptacle boxes. If you do not know what I am talking about... you should stop now and get an electrician before you kill yourself, really... please stop as I have known several guys to get killed and one lost a child due to poor understanding of what he was doing... Beer... no matter how great, is NOT worth dying for. That said, let's continue.... after checking your health policy of course...
For what it is worth... you can switch or reverse the way I connected this relay, it will not matter. By this I mean you can have power to the side I called heater and heater on the side I called 115 volts. YOU DO NOT USE THE LOW POWER SIDE TO CONNECT 115 VOLTS OR THE HEATER! The low power side in the photo is the lower connectors with the red and the yellow leads.
NOTE: The red wire at the bottom of the SSR? This comes from the Mypin controller #7 and the yellow wire is from the Mypin controller #8. This is the low amp DC output generated due to output from the thermocouple. When the temps are too low then the field in this ssr is turned on which causes a connection across the high voltage side of the SSR.
I am beginning to think a nice video explaining some basic electronics may be a really good idea... I may just make one and post it here somewhere.
Last thing(s)... Heat sink, and what is the amperage rating on your SSR? Mine is 25 amps. I would really like to double check what your heater resistance in ohms is before you set this up... Also did you remember to put a fuse or circuit breaker in line? I forgot to take a pic showing the heat sink on the other side of the relay. I will do that in the next day or so. I used JB weld epoxy to attach my heat sink. I also used a fan from a computer cooler to help cool the heat sink. I powered my fan with a wall wart I cannibalized... Again, photos coming soon... and maybe a video since soldering and all that is required.
Photos of a ssr with heat sink - fan combo and "wall wart" or cheap accessory charger from China. Wall warts are used to charge any number of devices and to be the main power supply for others. The nice shiny metal side is to facilitate using some method of heat transfer. I do not doubt many have ignored this and have had no issues... but by using a heat sink the SSR will last much longer.
The image below shows I removed the 2 blades that normally plug into a wall socket. I did not wish to power mine in that way, instead using the power lead used at my main power supply, but that is a different story and I will spare you the gory details.
Another view of both SSR with heat sink - combo and the power supply for the fan. If you use a larger heat sink you can avoid using a fan, but be sure you have good air flow because if this is all stuck in a box it will not cool.
The image below shows I removed the 2 blades that normally plug into a wall socket. I did not wish to power mine in that way, instead using the power lead used at my main power supply, but that is a different story and I will spare you the gory details.
Another view of both SSR with heat sink - combo and the power supply for the fan. If you use a larger heat sink you can avoid using a fan, but be sure you have good air flow because if this is all stuck in a box it will not cool.
Quazimoto, id love to pick your brain, even if I have to travel up there with my stuff and wire it together. I wired everything exactly as you said and it matches the diagram on the PID. I even bought a new PID and SSR and it still does not work. What will it take? 239-896-5733. is my number please help
michael
michael
