My water profile - stick with it or go with RO?

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Spin711

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Beginner with water understanding here. Ward labs analysis report:

IMG_2726.JPG


My beer has been tasting different after switching from bottled spring water (hasn’t been for the better). Does anything stand out? I have been using BS to calculate water salt additions and am trying to teach myself Bru’n Water as well. Seems like it is soft water. Would I benefit from installing an RO system and building my profile from there? Or keeping local water and using that to build my profiles? As I understand it, it’s easiest to start with RO water, and many experienced brewers recommend it. Any help is appreciated!
 
The sodium is the only thing that would make me hesitate at all about brewing pretty much anything with that water. [edit] For many (most?) styles it'd be a good start...

Cheers!
 
Sure, that's a great starting point for brewing water. No problems that can't be surmounted with acids and/or mineral additions.
 
The sodium is the only thing that would make me hesitate at all about brewing pretty much anything with that water. [edit] For many (most?) styles it'd be a good start...

Cheers!

19 ppm isn’t that high.

That’s great water for ANY style. A very nice base to build on.
 
19 ppm isn’t that high.[...]

[shrug] It's nearly an order of magnitude higher than what I use with pilsner and kolsch brews.
I allowed for what I believe: for the majority of styles it's a good start. Others one has to make allowances/compromises...

Cheers!

[edit] Bottom line, it's a marginal case for an RO system at most. I'd brew with that water.
My well, otoh, runs around 300 tds and 160 alkalinity, so that was a no brainer ;)
 
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Glaring issue with that water is the chloramine. That definitely needs countermeasures, but that can be as easy/simple as a Campden tablet in the brewing liquor on brew day morning. The alkalinity can be managed easily enough...

Cheers!
 
I don't want to have to make a new thread and I was just going to post about the same subject. Here is my report for my area NOTE This is not for my house but for my area this is just a start to get going.

https://city.milwaukee.gov/ImageLib...iles/WaterQualityBasicsforMilwaukeeMakers.pdf

that's pretty typical water, about the same as mine and good for brewing I might add, once you add acid to lower the ph the hardness will disappear and bump up the calcium it will be very good
 
Thanks for all the replies! I will scrap the RO idea and concentrate on understanding the brew science associated with water.

A few other questions I had:

I think I should add in a water filter prior to filling my kettle. I brew in the basement where the old laundry machine hookups were and collect water straight out of there, sometimes noticing specks in my kettle when I run full throttle (guessing that’s sediment). Would that help with TDS removal as well?

Municipal report (shown below) notes 0.9 ppm chlorine, no mention of chloramine. I typically use half a crushed campden tablet for 5-10 gallon batches. Is that sufficient for the levels present?

I noticed that ward labs doesn’t test for chlorine. Should that be something I ask them to test to verify the municipal report?

I would like to test multiple times with ward labs to better understand the seasonal differences. Would now be a good time to test for winter brewing? Is my water so soft that it isn’t really necessary? It doesn’t vary much from the municipal report.

IMG_2728.JPG


Thanks all!
 
Another option is an inline RV carbon filter. It will remove sediment and chlorine/ chloramine. I payed like $15 for a 2 pack on Amazon
 
The sodium is the only thing that would make me hesitate at all about brewing pretty much anything with that water.

Coming to this a little late, but when I lived in Bayonne NJ my Ward Labs report had my sodium at 54ppm and I brewed excellent beers with it.


Rev.
 
Another option is an inline RV carbon filter.

Another cheap easy option is to buy Campden tablets. One tablets removes chlorine & chloramines in up to 20 gallons of water. So I typically only use a half tablet to treat my strike & sparge water. Simply cut to size and crush the tablet between two spoons and stir into your water. Doesn't affect the taste negatively in any way.


Rev.
 
Another cheap easy option is to buy Campden tablets. One tablets removes chlorine & chloramines in up to 20 gallons of water. So I typically only use a half tablet to treat my strike & sparge water. Simply cut to size and crush the tablet between two spoons and stir into your water. Doesn't affect the taste negatively in any way.


Rev.

Thanks. I currently crush half a campden tablet to treat any chlorine, but I’m trying to eliminate sediment or any TDS from my tap by adding a filter. I contacted Buckeye hydro, and he said he would be able to build a two stage system for me. First being a sediment filter followed by a carbon block. Not sure if that’s overkill but sounds promising.
 
[shrug] It's nearly an order of magnitude higher than what I use with pilsner and kolsch brews.
I allowed for what I believe: for the majority of styles it's a good start. Others one has to make allowances/compromises...

Cheers!

[edit] Bottom line, it's a marginal case for an RO system at most. I'd brew with that water.
My well, otoh, runs around 300 tds and 160 alkalinity, so that was a no brainer ;)

Have you brewed a pilsner or a Kolsch with higher Na to see what it adds?

One of the best Pilsners I think made in the US has a Na content of around 90ppm. Malts will most likely add around 40ppm at that gravity.
 
No, I haven't diverged from my recipe for the sake of testing higher sodium content.
Why would I? I'm using RO water after all...

Cheers!
 
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