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Grrr.... As of this AM my batch hadn't started fermenting. I know US-05 has lagged on me on the past but...36+ hours? Pitched the other half of the packet...12 hours after that still nothing.

Just charged the bath from last Saturday with CO2 and gave Thursdays bath a pint from the bottom of the keg- hopefully the yeast there will fire it up....

I only pitched half a packet since that should suffice for a 3 gallon sub 1.050 OG batch... Sort of put out about this...
 
Cooling was a bit of a disaster. One might say that Murphy stopped by. This was largely my fault for using teflon tape on my plate chiller adapters, so it was a bit of a sticky mess and I had to stop and start a few times until it stopped leaking. In the future I'll be dealing with this by leaving my adapters+ball lock fittings assembled and taking off the bottom (1/2" NPT) fitting to clean and sanitize the chiller.

Hi,

I've been testing this myself and pretty much have to use the recommended three wraps of PTFE tape (the heavier duty pink one - it's much easier to remove and clean than the standard issue white tape).

Still need one more test run of my cooling system before I put wort through (just by running a garden hose backflow through it).

I use gas post>gas post male to 1/4" MNPT adapter>1/2" FNPT to 1/4" FNPT reduction fitting>1/2" MNPT chiller fitting.

I most definitely have to tape the gas post adapter to reducer fitting [minor leaking] and then tape the reducer fitting to the counterflow chiller [most leaking].

I thought I could get by with only taping the reduction fitting to the chiller, but the post still developed a few drops over circulating for a few minutes through the rinse cycle (I did to a system test using rinse as well).

I read what you posted but was wondering if you thought something was better than your approach. For myself, I am using 316 SS fittings but it didn't have flats for a wrench. I may switch to a higher pressure (not needed and more expensive) that comes with flats if my next test doesn't work (I hand tighten and a final small bit of wrenching with pipe pliers on the fitting. That 316 SS is tough to get a grip on - good news, it doesn't mar at all.

EDIT:

What I use: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4452k253/=x8ipak

What I found ... $28 vs. $6 ... maybe not, ha: http://www.mcmaster.com/#51205k218/=x8iq5f
 
What if one designed a keg with a coil in it?

I'm thinking about this. This might stop all the leaking I've been reading about from custom designed solutions.

Here's my thinking:

Pico machine > 2.5 gallon keg with coil (wort passes through coil, fill keg with water and ice) > 5 gallon fermenter.

Not sure how to attach the coil to the bottom of the keg posts in the 2.5 gallon keg. Sort of a cooling jockey box, I guess.
 
Interesting. I'd forgotten about that video.

Until I see a ready, off-the-shelf solution, I'm fine with the overnight chill. I've kegged two beers over the past few days that were chilled overnight, and I detect zero off flavors. They're fantastic, actually -- and will get better as they sit in the keg over the next several weeks.

lately, I've been cooling from 207f to 95F with ground water in 5 gal bucket (takes 3 changes of water) -- about 20 mins after the pico is finished -- and then pitching the next morning (around a 15 hr lag -- cool to 95F at 2:30p, pitch with Safale-05 @ 64F @ 6am following morning.)

Easy, direct, zero foam, built-in oxygenation -- and it's hard to beat.

But if Pico sold something that had (a) all the ball lock connects there and (b) used a minimum of ground water -- I'd probably buy it immediately, if only to be able to pitch quicker in order to keg 1 day earlier (even though I've got a pipeline of 2.5 gallon kegs aging and priming -- and they take 2 weeks at warm temps to carb anyway).

My days of ordering McMaster-Carr parts are over, so at this point, I just want to buy something and immediately use it. :)
 
Hi,

I've been testing this myself and pretty much have to use the recommended three wraps of PTFE tape (the heavier duty pink one - it's much easier to remove and clean than the standard issue white tape).

Hmmmm - seems I missed a "not" in that post - but you may have gotten that. It was my fault because I failed to use Teflon tape.

I ended up wrapping the 19/32"-18 gas post male to 1/4" MNPT at the MNPT with Teflon Tape (just the white stuff) and cranking way down at the connection to the 1/4" FNPT to 1/2" FNPT Brass adapter (Edit: Found the link), I've found that solved about 99% of my leaking - I don't even have to use Teflon tape on the 1/2" MNPT connection to the plate chiller - just tighten it with a wrench.

Still need one more test run of my cooling system before I put wort through (just by running a garden hose backflow through it).

I use gas post>gas post male to 1/4" MNPT adapter>1/2" FNPT to 1/4" FNPT reduction fitting>1/2" MNPT chiller fitting.

I most definitely have to tape the gas post adapter to reducer fitting [minor leaking] and then tape the reducer fitting to the counterflow chiller [most leaking].

You're smarter and more patient than I for testing. Interesting that your leaking problem is opposite of mine. We have the same configuration - makes the most sense.

I read what you posted but was wondering if you thought something was better than your approach. For myself, I am using 316 SS fittings but it didn't have flats for a wrench. I may switch to a higher pressure (not needed and more expensive) that comes with flats if my next test doesn't work (I hand tighten and a final small bit of wrenching with pipe pliers on the fitting. That 316 SS is tough to get a grip on - good news, it doesn't mar at all.

EDIT:

What I use: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4452k253/=x8ipak

What I found ... $28 vs. $6 ... maybe not, ha: http://www.mcmaster.com/#51205k218/=x8iq5f

Hmm.... maybe take a grinder to both sides of yours and make yourself some flats you can grab with an adjustable wrench?

I think the Brass one is okay, though I would have preferred SS. If I wear it out over time putting it on and off (the threads on the Brass part will wear out before the SS parts its connecting to), it'll be cheap enough to replace... I haven't given much thought to improving my setup since I just got it working and don't feel like throwing more money at that right now - unless I get a repeat of my last brewing/chilling issue.
 
But if Pico sold something that had (a) all the ball lock connects there and (b) used a minimum of ground water -- I'd probably buy it immediately, if only to be able to pitch quicker in order to keg 1 day earlier (even though I've got a pipeline of 2.5 gallon kegs aging and priming -- and they take 2 weeks at warm temps to carb anyway).

My days of ordering McMaster-Carr parts are over, so at this point, I just want to buy something and immediately use it. :)


The water waste is what bothers me, thats why I'm trying to capture it an reuse it.

And careful what you say about McMaster - you might find yourself needing a ton of O-rings! I've posted this a few times on the PB forum but I use silicone and the quad ring:

This is the best reference IMO - http://finnhillbrewing.blogspot.com/2010/12/cheap-corny-keg-rebuild-parts.html

Part #: 9396K926 High-Temperature Silicone O-Ring, 1/4 Fractional Width, Dash Number 417, Packs of 5
$11.09
Part #: 9396K24 High-Temperature Silicone O-Ring, 3/32 Fractional Width, Dash Number 111, Packs of 50
$7.76
Part #: 9396K74 High-Temperature Silicone O-Ring, 3/32 Fractional Width, Dash Number 109, Packs of 50
$7.56
 
Grrr.... As of this AM my batch hadn't started fermenting. I know US-05 has lagged on me on the past but...36+ hours? Pitched the other half of the packet...12 hours after that still nothing.

Just charged the bath from last Saturday with CO2 and gave Thursdays bath a pint from the bottom of the keg- hopefully the yeast there will fire it up....

I only pitched half a packet since that should suffice for a 3 gallon sub 1.050 OG batch... Sort of put out about this...

Ok, so this one started up and seems to be doing just fine. The BrewPi should be ramping the temperature in the fermentation chamber now - I'll be racking it Thursday or Friday and will take a gravity sample as well.

Tonight I pulled the dry hops and ginger out of the the Ginger IPA - smells great, maybe too much Ginger. I have to figure out whether I'm going to bottle it or what - really not excited about bottling. It looks pretty good so I'll probably skip the Gelatin.

I also racked the flower power clone - its had about 10 days in the primary and seemed to be reading 1.008 to 1.009 - so it should be pretty much done. I put in 0.5oz of Columbus for a dry hop. I'll probably pull that in a week and cold crash it.

A few things I've been thinking about - I haven't maxed out the grain capacity yet, especially doing the high efficiency multi-step mashes. With that in mind, it won't be hard to push the batch sizes to 3-gallons - I would like to get that much yield since I have the 3 gallon pinlocks for serving and I'm trying to figure out how to recapture my kegerator for kegs!

Looking at the All Day clone I have (OG of 1.044) - Picobrew's automatic recipe crafter efficiencies spit out:

  • 4 Gallon - Multi-step mash: 6.75 lbs of grain
  • 3 Gallon - Multi-step mash: 4.8 lbs of grain
  • 3 Gallon - Single Step Infusion: 7.05 lbs of grain

At $1/lb (ish) of grain, that 2.25lb of grain difference is a big deal for the three gallon batch - especially if it drops the brew day from 6-ish hours to 4-ish. If the Multi-step version of the clone comes out acceptable, I'll probably rebrew it with a single step and hopefully do a comparison. For science. :rockin:

Oh - my current fermentation log looks terrible. See that long purple block at the bottom? The wire in the solid state relay to the outlet popped out - so the Brewpi thought it was cooling (SSR was on) but there was no power getting to the cooler. Temperature only creeped up 1*F, but still... The room temperature (bottom grey line) is the garage temperature - that jump at the same time as the cooling block, the garage door was open and it was nice out - still stays pretty cool!

KUV39pz.png


This thread
about fermentation heat wraps has peaked my interest.... might look into outfitting a few kegs with this - see how the BrewPi could handle it with cool ambient temperatures - maybe a fan too to keep the air moving..
 
Baja - or others.

I ordered my zymatic - and now I'm going crazy waiting! I can't imagine the patience of those who where waiting months for their unit. Oh well.

My question though is this. I have a bunch of recipes in iBrewMaster - do you know if these can be imported into the my brewhouse section of the website? I saw that it supposedly can import beer xml recipes, and I think I can export from iBM to xml. Many thanks
 
It can import beerxml. I've tried a couple recipes but I noticed that if it doesn't have the exact ingredient in the database it leaves the ingredient field blank. Still it does what it can given the ingredients in the db.

Exporting works great. I've exported a couple recipes to create new versions with variations.
 
Baja - or others.

I ordered my zymatic - and now I'm going crazy waiting! I can't imagine the patience of those who where waiting months for their unit. Oh well.

My question though is this. I have a bunch of recipes in iBrewMaster - do you know if these can be imported into the my brewhouse section of the website? I saw that it supposedly can import beer xml recipes, and I think I can export from iBM to xml. Many thanks

Like BobbyTuck said you can import beerxml with complications (one being that its pretty bad about matching malt names- pretty good about hops). It looks like it auto-scales the malt amounts to get the batch sizes to 2.5 gallons. Then once you start messing with things like single step infusions vs multi-step, it auto changes your efficiency but doesn't auto-scale your grain amounts again - so its a PIA. I'm not super stoked about it, but I'm getting used to it.

Once your machine starts getting built they should be giving you the chance to make your account and you can start messing with stuff like that.

Exporting is easy (though for some reason I'm having a hard time getting Beersmith2 to ingest them.)

I'm pretty sure once you change a recipe in your Picobrew library that's been brewed, it auto-revises the name to be v1, etc. so you don't lose that recipe. A multi-file form of revision control.
 
BTW -- you think the wait for the Pico arriving is long? Wait'll you brew your first batch. It's the longest primary fermentation ever.

I was watching the airlock every day. I finally kegged it at 10 days -- a few days earlier than I'd planned. I couldn't wait anymore. Kegged it -- it was fantastic! Then another 2 weeks to carb up and age. It's crazy long until you're able to pour your first carbonated, aged, non-yeasty pint. :)

The Pico comes with a pre-milled 'Pico Pale Ale' -- it's okay. I may be the only homebrewer more interested in stouts and porters than the holy grail pale ales. I dunno. I love dark, malty, roasty beers -- although I'm trying to appreciate IPAs by making as many as possible.

Anyway, I ended up adding a bit of Special B and cherry smoked malt to the batch (as well as acid malt for my Lake Michigan water) but as you're waiting, you might want to start getting together some 2.5 to 3-gallon (less than 9#) recipes together. I ended up buying the ingredients for a porter for my first batch -- and then I brewed the included recipe a few weeks later.

Congrats on ordering one!

You definitely want to start planning for the pipeline, too. Right now, I've got a total of 10 5-gallon cornys and 10 2.5/3 gallon kegs (for the finished beer). I've got 4-6 batches fermenting at any one time, 4 on tap, and about 4 or 5 aging in 2.5/3 gallon kegs (primed with sugar). Great thing about the Pico is that the small batches kick pretty fast -- so there's always reason to brew more.

Finally, be sure to rinse your new Pico several times before using. A buddy of mine here ordered one, didn't rinse, and had a bad plastic smell for the first batch. I did a complete cleaning (with a dishwasher tab) then rinsed twice before brewing for the first time. Full cleaning takes about 2 hours with a gallon of water and a rise takes about 5-7 minutes (I use hot water for the rinse).
 
Bobbytuck - I can imagine! I'm very excited though as the unit has shipped - due in Wednesday evening!

I have a bunch of grain - American pale ale, maris otter, american and british crystals, munich, wheat and rye etc - so I will assemble a quick pale ale recipe of my own (I do love the malty dark beers, but a good APA or english bitter is my daily go-to brew). My favorite daily commercial beer is Mirror pond - and I've been meaning to brew the recipe from can you brew it - so perhaps I'll go with that.

I was thinking about the 2.5G batch size and my kegging. I use 5G kegs now, but I figure if I get those stackable kegs I can double my selection!

Good advise about cleaning and rinsing before brewing. I'll follow your advice, and I also planned on doing a water only run to make sure things looked OK. I saw there is a program for that in the library. I imagine this should take care of it.
 
re: Cleaning

Yes -- I tried that cleaning program in the library, but I decided to stick with the default Pico cleaning. The full cleaning is essentially a water-only brew -- with various steps to temperature -- and then a cool down. Be sure to only use a gallon of water in both cleaning programs. I made the mistake of using 3 or 4 gallons with the full cleaning and the machine chugged away for too long trying to heat it all. I think they specify this in the cleaning instructions.

re: Kegs

I found that Adventures in Homebrewing has the best prices on new 2.5 gallon kegs: http://www.homebrewing.org/AIH-New-Double-Rubber-Handle-25-Gal-Keg_p_5101.html

Perfect size for finished Pico batches.

They go in and out of stock pretty quickly at AIH, but I've been able to snag several. They're nice, solid kegs -- no issues -- and I find that they fit nicely in both my kegerator (2 small kegs + CO2 cannister) and my basement fridge (3 kegs + CO2). I just bought a couple of dip-tube screens from AIH (along with some leaf hops) and plan to start dry hopping in the keg for my next several batches.
 
Thanks bobbytuck.

I had another question - about oxygen. Do either of you add extra oxygen? I have been doing it for my 5G batches and I noticed a big difference in attenuation. I understand that the wort is getting aerated during the cooling phase - but is there a way to add in oxygen? Is this needed?

Thanks
 
Ah. An interesting question.

I've been thinking about oxygenation, too. My attenuation for recent brews has been slightly lower than I'd hoped -- 70-73% with 05 -- and I wonder if this might be the (or a) culprit.

Here's the issue (as I see it, at least): from a technical standpoint, oxygenation is pretty simple with the Pico. You could remove the silicon stopper, drop an oxygenator in it, and easily give it 3-5 mins of pure O2.

I've been reluctant to try this because foaming is an issue with the Pico. Unless you cool super-fast (i.e., a Therminator) you get a good deal of foam from the slow-cooling. Defoamer helps, but only so much. There's a heck of a lot of air being blown into the wort as it recirculates through the keg and the machine. Now, I usually cool in three 1-gallon buckets water for 25 mins. This gets me down to 95F easily -- but at the 25-30 min mark -- right as the wort gets to about 90-100F -- the foam really starts. And when I say "really starts" -- I mean it: it's thick foam -- and it pours out and overflows like there's no tomorrow. In fact, in my last brew, it literally popped the silicon (and foam trap) off onto the floor and then erupted out of the keg top. If I'd add pure O2 at this point, I'd be foaming up way, way too much wort -- and it would literally be too much to deal with.

Anyway, it's usually at this point that I do the overnight chill -- and let it cool down to ambient 65F.

Obviously, this is a lot of oxygen being introduced via the default Pico process -- so this may be oxygenation enough. Probably nowhere near as much as pure O2 -- but I don't know. This would be an interesting experiment: 2 identical batches, one oxygenated by water cooling default and one cooled quickly and then oxygenated.

I've got a Therminator -- but I haven;'t used it. The Therminator's cleaning is an issue, of course, but what bugs me is the (potential) water usage. It's probably not as much as I think, but it just seemed like an awful lot when I used to use it. I'm using 3 gallons to cool to 95F, and I guess I'm okay with that -- and it might be that the Therminator uses as much (or less?) to get to the wort to groundwater temp -- I don't know. I'm too lazy to get the fittings I need -- even though I've got them sitting in my Morebeer cart (and I've got a groundwater hose outlet in my basement where I brew -- so I literally have everything I need except the fittings).

YMMV. I suspect the way to go is quick cooling with a Therminator-like device -- and then a good 2-3 minute blast of O2. You'd be set to pitch in -- what? -- 10-15 minutes maybe? Plus, I realize as I write this that I'm cooling 2.5 gallons of wort -- not 5.5 or 6 gallons -- so maybe the Therminator is the way to go.
 
advice, and I also planned on doing a water only run to make sure things looked OK. I saw there is a program for that in the library. I imagine this should take care of it.

I'd also advocate for a full cleaning prior to use - use the 1 gallon they call for and you'll be in good shape. It will give you an idea of how things loop through. Make sure to rinse with the 5 gallons they call for as well (I run the rinse cycle twice since its only two minutes) because it gets pretty soapy. I'm going probably use PBW next time, I'm not a huge fan of the dishwasher tablet.

I found that Adventures in Homebrewing has the best prices on new 2.5 gallon kegs: http://www.homebrewing.org/AIH-New-Double-Rubber-Handle-25-Gal-Keg_p_5101.html

Perfect size for finished Pico batches.

They go in and out of stock pretty quickly at AIH, but I've been able to snag several. They're nice, solid kegs -- no issues -- and I find that they fit nicely in both my kegerator (2 small kegs + CO2 cannister) and my basement fridge (3 kegs + CO2). I just bought a couple of dip-tube screens from AIH (along with some leaf hops) and plan to start dry hopping in the keg for my next several batches.

If you're not super footprint sensitive, they (AIH) also have 4 packs of 3 gallon (used) pinlocks (9 inch diameter) for $160 - toss in 4x ball lock posts for $10/ea and you're looking at $55 reconditioned 3 gallon kegs. I picked these up and one had a loose base, but will probably be acquiring more on my next order. Earlier I found that I can fit 3 in my kegerator when it moves off ferm chamber duty.

VsjGn.jpg


Thanks bobbytuck.

I had another question - about oxygen. Do either of you add extra oxygen? I have been doing it for my 5G batches and I noticed a big difference in attenuation. I understand that the wort is getting aerated during the cooling phase - but is there a way to add in oxygen? Is this needed?

Thanks

I haven't been oxygenating. I think the air exposure and splash affect that is obtained during cooling is way more than enough - but then again my cooling cycles haven't been going so well - going to try and beat that tomorrow. I haven't been taking OG measurements (will also change tomorrow) so I can't really comment on how it might change attenuation.

Bobbytuck is dead on about how bad the foam can be - not good! Make sure you have the keg seal in place!
 
I posted this in the other Picobrew thread, but I figure it warrants posting here as well. I have a Mac as my personal computer and its running OSX 10.7.5 (some kind of big cat, I figure which one) - but I also have Parallels with Windows XP and Windows 7 ...and my machine dual boots to Ubuntu if I need it to.

Picobrew's firmware upgrades are meant to be pushed through their flash utility... a small windows executable. I flashed used parallel's+windows 7 tonight - flash utility installed without a hitch and the Picobrew was recognized and the necessary driver installed right away (a gentle, caressing change after the day I had battling with Labview...) and but after I finished uploading the 1.1.9 firmware hex file it said it failed- but the Picobrew said it was sucessful and I had to reload my wifi network information when it restarted, as expected. No problems.

I also found this tonight linked from the Picobrew site. The author there (Nicholas, I presume) gives credit to the person who posted some rough steps on the Picobrew site, and show's his step by step screen shots with a bit of text. Basically you use Arudino development tools to push the hex file over USB - pretty straight forward if you've done any shell/terminal work before. https://www.dropbox.com/s/k16j99q0gr...S X.pdf?dl=0

I also setup a brew to kick off tomorrow morning - it will be a Maris Otter and Mosaic Pale ale. This will be my second batch >2.5 gallons. I'm using the high efficiency mash tools and brewing a batch that should produce 3.34 gallons. Why that funky number, you don't care to know? Because I've been using spring water from the store (my water is really bad - we don't drink it) and that final volume, coupled with the high efficiency mash, means I can dump 4 gallons straight into my brewing keg.

I will be using my new refractormeter to test my OG - I've been to lazy to use my hydrometer to test OG thus far... and racking my session IPA (which will hopefully mostly fill my 3 gallon keg) and getting a few on pressure to start carbing. While brewing I'll probably do a BIAB with Pils malt to make starters for the Belgian yeasts I have. Can you tell I'll have the house to myself for the morning?

Also - most messed up BrewPi fermentation log I've made so far:

cYbS2MQ.png
 
BTW -- here's a great thread from Brulosophy about wort aeration. I read this not long after I posted above:

http://brulosophy.com/2015/05/25/wort-aeration-pt-1-shaken-vs-nothing-exbeeriment-results/

This isn't definitive by any means -- but the results are not what I'd expect -- and after reading this, I'm inclined to keep things simple, skip the Therminator/O2, and just let it foam up and then cool down overnight.

EDIT: And this link: http://www.morebeer.com/articles/oxygen_in_fermentation
 
So I have a batch brewing right now - walk down to the garage to check on the mash and its overflowing. Damn, figured right off the bat that it was because I was using 4 gallons of water.... I try moving it a bit to make sure its level, etc. but that doesn't help...

10 minutes later I remember- I put the water in last night and put the lid on the keg to seal it.... Son-of-a... I run downstairs and sure enough the lid is still in place from when I kicked off the batch 3 minutes after waking up. Release it and ... it won't budge. Its pressurized onto the keg (pinlock lid, no PRV) - I bang it a few times with the heel of my and it it pops open and the pitch of the Picobrew pump changes - I can hear it working less hard.

Here's what I figure.
  • Closed vessel + heat = pressure.
  • Pump vs pressure = lower exiting flow rate.
  • Lower exiting flow rate = overflow.

Always use the keg seal.
 
Chilling was/is - yet again, a nightmare. After a little bit - the damn thing just wouldn't flow. And guess what?! Once you bypass the "Pause to connect chiller" option - you can't pause anymore. I knew what the issue was (clogged inline input filter) but couldn't get the Picobrew to stop so I clean it. I wanted to do the Bobbytuck ice bucket method, but didnt' have enough ice. ****.

So I exited the brewing session. Cleaned the filter. Pulled out my computer. Made a "Chill" brew with my target temperature and some arbitrary malts and hops. Went into the advanced recipe editor and deleted everything except the first step and set that to pass through at my desired temperature.

Its now finishing chilling - and I've submitted a help ticket for a feature request to put a pause option in the "Push to interrupt" feature that allows you to choose to continue, drain, or exit. Perfect place for a pause option. Hopefully I'll hear back with something useful.

6RaNxEdl.png


6QMT62Jl.png
 
Pausing at any time would be great.

Agreed! They obviously employ some of their people over the weekend (which makes sense since I imagine many brew on the weekends like myself) from the Forum Admin Kevin saying he agrees and that he could have used it as well at some points - but then pointed out it could be problematic if it happened during the mash as a high liquid volume would equalize to the hop bin and flood the hops.

I hadn't thought of that, and told him so, but also said it would be pretty easy to handle with a case statement: since the Picobrew obviously knows what bin its filling, the "Pause option" could become "Drain and Pause" for filling the mash area and "Pause" for everywhere else. I then heard back from a software person who said he'd look into it.

Word to the wise: apparently you can restart brews from the help menu if you exit them. I didn't know this but the software guy pointed it out.

Just measured the OG out of my syringe and it came in at 1.050 - dead nuts on the recipe cafter's prediction even though I lost some wort during the mash.
 
hi are you happy with your pico brew?
Have you ever done a chocolate stout or a stout on it?
Tks
Daniel
 
hi are you happy with your pico brew?
Have you ever done a chocolate stout or a stout on it?
Tks
Daniel

I am happy with the Picobrew! As you can probably see from the thread I'm going through growing pains of stupid little mistakes - like leaving the keg lid on yesterday.

I haven't made any stouts yet - I will probably be brewing my Chocolate stout in a few months so that it has time to age and mellow before Stout season... I'm going to have to figure out how I want to do it - as I add powered dark chocolate right to the boil - probably will just drop it directly into the keg.

I'm still trying to build a pipeline for my daily beers before I start making some that need to age. My next order will probably have stuff for a few Belgians.

Like with others complaints about lack of hop flavor aroma. I wanted the beer I brewed yesterday to be a really aromatic beer, so I made my final hop in a mesh sack in the keg. I also tricked the recipe crafter into calculating the IBU's for me: I put my hop additions in their normal time, but I didn't want the fluid arm to move to the last - empty - hop bin, so I went into the advanced editor and told it to fill Adjunct 2 instead of Adjunct 3 that it had defaulted to.

It seemed to make a difference of the aroma in the keg when the beer was done. Used 7 grams of S-04 and it was fermenting this morning.

bHMtCSf.png
 
My own new hopping test is going to be with a dip tube screen and whole hops. I've got a Cascadian Dark and a Rye IPA fermenting, and my plan is to put the screens on the dip tube and dump a bunch of hops directly in the kegs. I know this would mess up my pours with pellets, but I figure whole hops + screen should be okay. I'm assuming the hops will eventually sink to bottom.

re: Stouts and Porters

Yes -- these are my favorite styles -- more so than IPAs -- and I've had great luck with stouts and porters. I've brewed several now -- and probably the one I'm going to brew again soon is Denny's Vanilla Imperial Porter (recipe is everywhere -- just google). I skipped the vanilla -- I figure that might add too much of a "gimmick" flavor and I'd get tired of it after several pints -- but I did add 3oz of Jim Beam bourbon to the final 2.5 gallons. That seemed to be the right amount -- for me, at least. A few that tasted it thought I'd used smoked malt (not bourbon) -- so it was interesting how the bourbon -- just a tiny bit of it -- had a pretty big impact. I've got better bourbons, but I figured it's like a cocktail -- if it's a mixer, there's no reason to use top-shelf.

I just finished watching NB's 'Brewing TV' stout and porter episode, so my plans for next month include more authentic stout and porter recipes (according to the episode and according to: http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/)

After 20+ batches, my own view is that the beer coming from the Pico is remarkably consistent. No major sanitation issues, no off-flavors. Brew after brew, it's the best (and easiest) beer I've brewed. Granted, this will vary according to user -- and I see that Baja here is approaching the beer from a different angle (I'm very interested in the BrewPi -- but I don't want to overcomplicate what's turning out to be a really enjoyable brewing process) -- but I suspect Baja, too, would agree on consistency. Most errors -- if not every error -- I've had so far are my own fault while the machine -- remarkably -- just chugs away batch after batch.

BTW -- it's interesting to read the other threads here on Pico -- the idea that it's somehow a "cheat" to the process. I suspect the subtext is really that it's an "advantage" to the process of crappy procedural techniques (and bad sanitation). It's like when I hear chefs complain about sous-vide -- that it makes the process too simple or that it robs you of experiencing the "hard work" of cooking. Maybe, but I know a lot of chefs (and engineers and programmers) that find a real elegance in simplicity -- and have come to understand that no one is being "robbed" or "cheated" when the process is stripped down and simplified for consistency. I sous-vide all the time -- and it's far and away the easiest way to get consistent and delicious food -- especially with something like steak. Why overshoot medium rare when you know all a steak needs is 134F for 90 minutes and a good sear? That's it.

Same with Pico. Once you move beyond the "hey, look, I'm making beer!" stage -- you realize, okay, what I really want to do is to make *consistent* beer. To me, that's the real elegance of homebrewing. And that's what the Pico does.
 
Agree! To some, the pain and toil is part of the fun. Somehow makes it more meaningful to them. I am not one of those. To me the "soul" of brewing is recipe formulation and fermentation control. These are still there with pico since it is a wort making machine.

In fact, I experienced mostly frustration having to fret over whether my mash temp dropping was a problem, whether I should re-fire my burners to heat etc. having to then watch a timer to add hops etc. was a pain - and not fun. Also, with work and kids, having to find the consecutive free hours for a brew session was mostly prohibitive. The Pico solves all these issues.

I get that it's not for all, but I don't get the need to hate - just because it's not what they like aboutbbrewing
 
Thanks for your answer i really agree on the kids part..! this allows more time with family..still would use my 3 vessel system from time to time,, but for regular batch on a daily base this make sense..
Whats the highest gravity beer you can make on the pico?
 
Whats the highest gravity beer you can make on the pico?

The max grain is 9# -- but you can always add extract to bump up the gravity to the boil (literally - you could just pour the extract into the keg at the start of the boil. I'd probably warm the extract a bit so it thins out and is more pourable, but that's the Pico-recommended way of getting big, big beers).

The highest grav all-grain, no-extract brew I've made is around 1.078 -- a big Rye IPA (which includes a couple handfuls of rice hulls for the Rye). For me -- that's fine. The Pico excels at 1.055 - 1.075 beers -- that's essentially the Pico's sweet spot.

But as we near the middle of summer, I'll probably look toward making several bigger, heavier winter beers for the holidays --Wee Heavy, Imperial Stout, Winter Ale, etc -- so I'll probably look more toward extract additions to bumping up the OG. Northern Brewer has a Rye extract that I've got in my cart, so I suspect I'll order several bottles of that sooner rather than later.

I've got a Belgian Dubbel @ 1.077 fermenting now -- used Trappist High Grav liquid yeast -- so that (for me) will be my big beer for the summer. It's got about 4 more weeks to go in the primary keg -- then another 4 weeks in a keg in my basement @ 65F (plus 2 weeks to carb @ 12psi @ 38F) -- and then I'm hoping it's ready to pour for Memorial Day.
 
HI thanks great info..!So currently what other options are available that work like the pico brew.. to consider?
dAniel
 
Let me add my praises for the PicoBrew. Since receiving it I have brewed an average of every other week. So much that I had to order extra kegs from AIH. It is so easy, and as I followed the advice in this thread of cleaning thoroughly, all my beers that are dinkable are very drinkable. And that is not my biased opinion but that of my neighbors, who find all sorts of excuses to drop by in the weekend, all of a sudden :D.

Using the term "drinkable" above is because of two brews currently in carboys, one Berliner Weisse (8 weeks) and a Consecrated clone (12 months), that are a longish/long way from being drinkable.

And my first Pico (Pale) Ale brew was a big hit too. I added licorice root to the 1st hop basket (1 oz, although next time I will try 3/4 or 1/2 oz). It provides and interesting slightly sweet after taste that does not overpower the hops, at least to my taste.
 
I order one on monday..! supposedly would be shipping next week!
like brewing but with this would do it more frequently..!
 
Ordered last saturday. Hoping it ships this week. Hell I already built a custom stand for it next to my kegerator in the garage!

Severum
 
Man... I hope someone gets theirs from AIH with the free shipping and points.

My second to latest batch doesn't taste good. It was an attempt at a session IPA and the one where the yeast didn't start for 48 hours when I gave it some good stuff. Not PicoBrews fault. Sorta pissed. Gonna give it a week to see if its worthy of a dry hop.

Brewing Saturday for sure. After that I'm going to figure out a beer to age...
 
Kegged a porter today -- delicious out of the fermenter with 4oz Jim Beam. And I brewed another porter -- 4oz of peated malt in a 7# batch. Tasted great after the boil -- smoky, hoppy (1 oz Cascade bittering, 2 oz Tetanger aroma).

This thing makes fantastic stouts and porters!
 
Kegged a porter today -- delicious out of the fermenter with 4oz Jim Beam. And I brewed another porter -- 4oz of peated malt in a 7# batch. Tasted great after the boil -- smoky, hoppy (1 oz Cascade bittering, 2 oz Tetanger aroma).

This thing makes fantastic stouts and porters!

One of those for aging is on my list (my chocolate stout....)

I really need to get to brewing beers that can age because I'm starting to run out of time to brew again - yes, even with how easy this machine makes it, I seldom have time to conceptualize a brew followed by a 6 hour period where the brewing can occur. Getting away from Pale Ale's/IPA's will allow me to return to no-chill which will help (set up a brew after work, hit go, do my thing, sleep on the couch until I need to disconnect it.)
 
Ordered mine on Monday from AIH due to their free shipping, $50 gift certificate and the points. I chose the UPs Next Day Air for $106 and there was a note from AIH saying they were inquiring if Next day air was available since the unit is drop shipped from Picobrew. Wednesday morning I received two boxes and thought I was gonna brew in a few hours only to find out that I only received the keg and the actual Zymatic unit, the third box which included everything else was showing that it was still in Seattle. I emailed Picobrew and within 30 minutes they were looking into the issue. Needless to say I didn't receive that that third box until this morning. The customer service at Picobrew was awesome and followed up with me all day yesterday and this morning with updates. I finally got it all setup to brew and brewed the Pico Pale Ale that came with the unit, no issues and cleanup was so easy. I can see this thing getting alot.of use. After one brew I'm glad I made the purchase.
 
I ordered one today from AIH. Stoked to get it and to start up the brewery again. Thanks for posting your experiences.
 
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