My new eBrew control panel

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spkguitar

New Brew Dude
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So I had to move my ebrewery (again) because my ventilation plans failed. Since I was moving it, I decided to upgrade my old control panel. I always had intentions of adding a second PID temperature controller and building a full eHERMS, and I decided to get started on that plan.

I bought the Auber two cut 12'' x 10'' x 8" (300 x 250 x 200 mm) box, and the innards to build a 50a back to back system. This box is a tight fit, but it fits. I don't foresee a time when someone who doesn't already know this system would ever brew on it, so I didn't see a need for the labels. The controls are pretty straightforward anyway; key switch power on, eStop, a switch each for the elements, and switch/plug combos on the bottom for pumps.

Even with my attempts to keep the wiring clean and organized, it still looks kind of like spaghetti. It works well though. Right now, it's still a single kettle, single cooler brutus 20 type system, but the HLT is on it's way.

I've done two brews on it so far, and the only problems were the brewer. ;) The new ventilation solution works wonders, but it's only temporarily installed (to test it), so I'm not posting pictures of it until later when I get it permanently installed.

2014-09-26 17.58.48.jpg


2014-09-26 20.15.20.jpg


2014-09-26 20.15.25.jpg
 
I guess you have to go to EE school to learn how to make pretty wiring. But I've always been a function over form kind of guy anyway. Looks like a nice, clean CP.
 
I guess you have to go to EE school to learn how to make pretty wiring. But I've always been a function over form kind of guy anyway. Looks like a nice, clean CP.
Those pics look pretty compared to my wiring....

Question for The OP, I see you have the auber as well as the my pin TD4... as a user of the my pin td4 myself I'm curious how they stack up to each other? I do know you want to change the "I" setting in the menu to one or it will have a tendency to overshoot temps... at least mine did until I took anothers advice and did this.
 
Looks like a nice, clean CP.
Thanks. I'm definitely happy with how it turned out, and with how it is working for me. I have been contemplating doing away with the eStop and fitting another PID (or temp display) in it's place just for monitoring mash temps, but that would be a ways off.

Question for The OP, I see you have the auber as well as the my pin TD4... as a user of the my pin td4 myself I'm curious how they stack up to each other?
All told, they are extremely similar. They both have pros and cons.

TD4:
Pros - Cheap! When you figure out how to work it, the functions that it has are almost identical to the Auber.

Cons - lack of straightforward english instructions, lack of a reputable/reliable supplier, a little harder to use that the Auber.

Auber:
Pros - Straightforward instructions, ubiquitous use, reputable supplier (with support), easy to use

Cons - Expensive, expensive, and expen$ive.


I've got just the one kettle with element right now, so I'm still using it as a modified Brutus 20, but that will change before the end of the year when I get my HLT. (I've already got the element for it).

I was using the TD4 exclusively with my old system, but switched to using the Auber after the rebuild, mostly to compare the two. I use the TD4 to monitor mash temps right now, but eventually it will be the HLT controller.

While they are functionally the same, I find the Auber way easier in use. The buttons are a bit bigger, and some of the mode switching is easier.
Two TD4s for the price of one Auber can't be beat, though. ;)

I bought a package deal on Amazon that included the TD4 and a 25A Fotek SSR, hoping that the 25A would suffice, and after 6 10 gallon batches, I burned up that SSR. I replaced it with a 40A from eBrewsupply and haven't had any more problems with it (though honestly I only used it once).
 
Thanks. I'm definitely happy with how it turned out, and with how it is working for me. I have been contemplating doing away with the eStop and fitting another PID (or temp display) in it's place just for monitoring mash temps, but that would be a ways off.

All told, they are extremely similar. They both have pros and cons.

TD4:
Pros - Cheap! When you figure out how to work it, the functions that it has are almost identical to the Auber.

Cons - lack of straightforward english instructions, lack of a reputable/reliable supplier, a little harder to use that the Auber.

Auber:
Pros - Straightforward instructions, ubiquitous use, reputable supplier (with support), easy to use

Cons - Expensive, expensive, and expen$ive.


I've got just the one kettle with element right now, so I'm still using it as a modified Brutus 20, but that will change before the end of the year when I get my HLT. (I've already got the element for it).

I was using the TD4 exclusively with my old system, but switched to using the Auber after the rebuild, mostly to compare the two. I use the TD4 to monitor mash temps right now, but eventually it will be the HLT controller.

While they are functionally the same, I find the Auber way easier in use. The buttons are a bit bigger, and some of the mode switching is easier.
Two TD4s for the price of one Auber can't be beat, though. ;)

I bought a package deal on Amazon that included the TD4 and a 25A Fotek SSR, hoping that the 25A would suffice, and after 6 10 gallon batches, I burned up that SSR. I replaced it with a 40A from eBrewsupply and haven't had any more problems with it (though honestly I only used it once).
I have been lucky with my fotek 25a knockoffs.... 10 months so far and no issues. I bought all my ssrs separate from the mypin TD4'4s though... I have been buying my mypins from a supplier on ebay out of staten Island and now they are under $20 shipped.. I had a larger Ta7 but it lacks manual mode so I replaced it with a third td4 mainly form cosmetic uniformity.
 
Eh. Forty bucks is not that big of a bite. I can easily spend that much at a night at the pub.

Actually the cheapest I have found was $44 + shipping for one auber 1/16 din pid with manual mode so $50 or so bucks as opposed to $19 shipped.... Since we are comparing. and I Bought the exact brand switches a they sell there for $6 a piece plus shipping for less than $3 shipped... I have the same quick disconnect rtds as they sell only the cabling that came with mine is insulated and not loose wires.... they want $35 + shipping I paid $18 including shipping... their cheapest heat sink-$25+ shipping the one I bought (Which dont get anywhere near as hot as some claim even without a fan for me, certainly not as hot as a pc cpu heatsink) $3 with shipping, Thier SSR $15 (this is one thing I agree may be a better quality and value from them) vs $3 for each of the three I bought on amazon and ebay.

All together you are looking at $123+ $10-15 shipping ($133-$138 for the auber "setup"
vs
$36 including shipping..... thats more than "a couple bucks" that $100 or more.....

I may very well just be lucky but I see others like Brumatuer who build and sell panels he makes with at least the same pid with no issues and I have three of all of these with no issues in 32 uses now...
 
Eh. Forty bucks is not that big of a bite. I can easily spend that much at a night at the pub.
Yep. Or a bag of grain. Which is why I went with the Auber for my second one. I'm glad I did, I do like it better. But compared to $20-25 for the MyPin... if I was going to buy one just for temp readout, I'd get the TD4 (or even TA4) instead of $40 for the Auber.

I have been lucky with my fotek 25a knockoffs.... 32 brew sessions so far and no issues. I bought all my ssrs separate from the mypin TD4'4s though... I have been buying them from a supplier on ebay out of staten Island and now they are under $20 shipped.
You should post that sellers screen name so others here can benefit from a reliable supplier.

Most of the ones I've seen on ebay "say" they are TD4, but the pictures are all of TA4s, sometimes shopped to say "T Series". That always leaves me sketchy. SSRs are the same way; lots of them are pix of 25A models that have been shopped to say 40.
 
Yep. Or a bag of grain. Which is why I went with the Auber for my second one. I'm glad I did, I do like it better. But compared to $20-25 for the MyPin... if I was going to buy one just for temp readout, I'd get the TD4 (or even TA4) instead of $40 for the Auber.

You should post that sellers screen name so others here can benefit from a reliable supplier.

Most of the ones I've seen on ebay "say" they are TD4, but the pictures are all of TA4s, sometimes shopped to say "T Series". That always leaves me sketchy. SSRs are the same way; lots of them are pix of 25A models that have been shopped to say 40.

He is actually out of them at the moment....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231206228037?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

but amazon has them from multiple suppliers...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZUDU04/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZUDV3U/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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...I have the same quick disconnect rtds as they sell only the cabling that came with mine is insulated and not loose wires.... they want $35 + shipping I paid $18 including shipping...

I did buy the Auber RTD probes because I couldn't find probes that I liked. Can you provide a link where you got the same QD probes for 18 shipped?
 
Hell, I dont care what it looks like.. I am envious of anyone with an automated control system.... still in my infant stages of getting back into homebrewing....
 

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