rtockst
Well-Known Member
Yepper... you have the switch wired wrong. Just go down to Radioshack and throw down the $3 for a SPDT.
Thanks for your help!
Yepper... you have the switch wired wrong. Just go down to Radioshack and throw down the $3 for a SPDT.
Yepper... you have the switch wired wrong. Just go down to Radioshack and throw down the $3 for a SPDT.
All painted up, reassembled and ready to brew this weekend! Woohooo!
All painted up, reassembled and ready to brew this weekend! Woohooo!
All painted up, reassembled and ready to brew this weekend! Woohooo!
Hi all - I am building a classic Brutus 10 and using Josh's Auber PID approach. I do not yet have the Auber SL-2362 (but do have the instruction manual.) I am not a electrician but can figure some of this out. Having said that I have some basic questions:
1. How is the transformer wired? I have a 24v20a additive transformer and know I have to tie the 8 and 16v terminals together to get 24v and assume these are tied together to the 24v barrier strip but where is the neutral in the circuit? (Let me know if my assumptions are wrong.)
2. Speaking of the neutral, can I use the same Radio Shack barrier strip for the 110v and 24v neutral?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Bernie
CollinsBrew said:So, I had three bad transformers from two different places...how does this happen? Anyway, I finally have one that's registering at least 24V when I touch the multi-meter to 8V post and the 16V post together (I'm using a tri-volt door chime transformer like this). However, when I connect a wire to each post and join them together, the voltage drops to zero. Also, without the wires connected, the transformer has a nice hum. As soon as I join the wires onto my 24V terminal stirp, the hum goes almost completely away.
Here's another question: Transformer issues aside, I ran a hot 24V line to pin 13 on my Auber 2362 and then ran pin 14 to the auto side of my switch. I then ran a hot 24V line to the 'on' side of my 3-position switch to kick the burner on when I need to bypass the PID. Does this sound right?
midnightbrewing said:the 85v figure comes from the PIDs I already have; they have a listed operating range of 85-240v if I'm reading it correctly. I had thought about getting a transformer for that, but at that point I think it's more trouble than a second cable to the box for 110vac.
I seem to remember reading at one time about a length limit on the PID senors; as in they won't work effectively if the cable is longer than 8'.
Checked the manual and can't find any such information, but I know I read it somewhere. Does anyone know about that?
My build uses a 15-pin dsub to go between the control box and a box on the stand; which is where the pumps, sensors etc plug in. the multipin cable is 6 feet (to match the standard power cord) and then the sensor cables are 6 feet as well, for a total of 12 feet, plus a standard terminal connection between the two.
jlandin said:Sure. Given the six posts as:
(Top)
1 2
3 4
5 6
(Bottom)
You want to connect the hot 24V to both 3 and 4. Then connect 1 to the 24V valve so it is activated when your switch is in Down/Fire mode. Then connect 6 to the PID so that it is activated when the switch is in Up/Auto mode. If you are using the same PID I used, 6 would go to PID terminal 13, and PID terminal 14 would go to the 24V valve.
In any case, make sure you use a voltmeter to double check your switch positions are doing what you want.
--
Josh
midnightbrewing said:And the other pins (2, 5) would be the negative, right? For instance, pid #14 goes to tr on the valve, and th goes to pins 2 and 5 on the toggle switch to complete the circuit? It's been more than a decade since circuits class in college.... And I'm struggling to remember how this all goes together.
I am confused about one thing, does the honeywell pilots have electronic ignition or is this manual?
Thanks,
-G
You have to light these pilots manually, either with a lighter or some other ignition source, once lit they will stay lit throughout your brew day (until you turn them off or run out of propane) and will fire your burners when they receive fuel.
How do you connect the propane tank and regulator if the regulator is hard plumbed on the stand?Where did you get your rubber propane hose and acme nut from?
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