BigDaddyBeard
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- Aug 23, 2013
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Be awesome if you could get a silhouette cutout done of a hop. You close to any machine shops?
kickflip_mj said:I could always polish it and shoot it with a high temp clear?
Bensiff said:Good god man, don't do it. Mild steel is horribly uneven. Concaved in the center and plenty of unevenness on the surface. Getting it completely flat and polished to the point it would look good would take forever, not to mention the amount of consumables to get it to that point. If you did take the time to get it there you would also have to find a high temp clear coat that didn't brown or yellow from the heat. I'm hitting parts of my stand with 220 grit right now and I would still go higher if I wanted to clear coat. It's been so much work I decided tht I'm only going to 220 on the show sides, the under sides and back sides of the tubing will only get 120 or 150 at best.
kickflip_mj said:I am losing my mind! I spent this whole night cleaning the stand with a stripping wheel! I'm going crazy! It's taking forever and my arms are exhausted
kickflip_mj said:I am losing my mind! I spent this whole night cleaning the stand with a stripping wheel! I'm going crazy! It's taking forever and my arms are exhausted
Bensiff said:Oh yeah, no need to eat iron for a few months. You will have breathed in plenty .
Fellas, it's probably too late now, but my two cents for painting steel are as follows:
Use 36 grit to strip the mill scale off of the steel. If this isn't working too well, try some muriatic acid. Read up on the safety precautions before you go this route.
Hit it with 80 grit next. You can use hi build epoxy primer right over the 80 grit. Since you guys are doing a great job and looking for a nice finish, use some $15 evercoat glazing putty to fill in the scratch marks.
Sand with 220, reprime, finish off with 320. Paint it up and enjoy.
Your comment about how people do this for a living - they just know it's a losing game to sand on metal. The modern fillers are very adaptable and can work for your application if applied properly.
Best of luck - don't take it as criticism, your work is great so far, I just don't want you to have to work so hard!
aggies08brewer said:Fellas, it's probably too late now, but my two cents for painting steel are as follows:
Use 36 grit to strip the mill scale off of the steel. If this isn't working too well, try some muriatic acid. Read up on the safety precautions before you go this route.
Hit it with 80 grit next. You can use hi build epoxy primer right over the 80 grit. Since you guys are doing a great job and looking for a nice finish, use some $15 evercoat glazing putty to fill in the scratch marks.
Sand with 220, reprime, finish off with 320. Paint it up and enjoy.
Your comment about how people do this for a living - they just know it's a losing game to sand on metal. The modern fillers are very adaptable and can work for your application if applied properly.
Best of luck - don't take it as criticism, your work is great so far, I just don't want you to have to work so hard!
This is a great write up! Thank you, you cant find this information in these forums. The millscale is coming off no problem with these stripping pads I got at HD and some acetone.
Would you do the 80 grit by hand or with a wheel? Also how does that Evercoat work with the heat? I have used ever coat on harley tins in the past.
On a side note, we should create a sticky with this kind of information, things that work and do not.
I've been using the 60 grit flaps, because that is what they had at HF and then moving up. My issue is that the only high build rattle can I know of is the Eastwood stuff and I don't know it's compatibility with the paint I have and I don't want to shoot an epoxy primer through my paint gun. I suppose I could always get the super cheap HF gun for primer.
Isocyanates are not added to paint as a flashing agent, however some are released into the air when painting. They are a key part of the chemical bonding that occurs to get the unique properties of modern automotive paint. When cured they are chemically bonded and are stable. However, according to PPG, sufficient heat, certainly less than a propane burner, unlocks the bonding and allows the isocyanates among other noxious fumes to go airborne. Given the significant differences between even automotive paints, checking the product MSDS would be necessary to verify.aggies08brewer said:Secondly, a comment was made about direct firing and the heat affecting the isocyanates in your chosen paint. Yes, auto paint has it. Yes you can get paint without it. I don't anticipate them being re-activated when the paint is heated and wafting into your beer. My understanding is that the isocyanates flash off in the hardener when the paint is sprayed. Ask your paint rep for the facts here as I could very well be wrong and this is something that should not be played with - I'd love to be wrong in fact. This leads me to the glazing putty. It has a auto-ignite temp in the ~900F range. Not fulling knowing your setup, I'm sure with some well placed heat shielding combined with the paint properties (ceramic heat paint) you won't have issues with it bubbling.
Isocyanates are not added to paint as a flashing agent, however some are released into the air when painting....
I'm interested in the putty you spoke of. Could that be used followed by a standard etching primer instead of doing a high build primer?
aggies08brewer said:Sorry, I meant to mean they flash off (necessitating the PPE) but are also an ingredient in the hardener. Good info that they can be reactivated from heat exposure. I would really love to see some tests on this, if there are any at all. After all, auto paint can hit around 120F in the sun, wonder if it reacts then??
I believe you would normally use the etching primer first - sand with a heavy grit, say 80, then wipe a thin coat to fill the sanding scratches. Go to your 220 then 320. Seal on top and paint. What it's doing is saving you a lot of sanding and another priming. I'm sure there are great tutorials online and I know hotrod magazine recently released on online series about painting techniques.
If you are unfamiliar, it needs to be the consistency of pancake batter (runny batter at that) when mixed. It's not a product designed to be built up. Scratches and pinholes! Good luck!
My suggestion is that your weld area is contaminated. The contaminants burn and "off-gas" during the weld and bubble up through your weld puddle. Voila - pin holes. This can be corrected by thoroughly cleaning the weld area, down to removing the mill scale and wiping with acetone or other suitable solvent. My process is to usually scuff with a 60-grit sanding pad on the grinder, maybe wipe a few times with a red scotch brite pad, and then wipe with a clean rag (not paper towel because of the paper bits left behind) soaked in a flashing solvent. With proper shielding gas pressure your pinhole woes will be long gone.
n240sxguy said:I would assume it was chlorinated brake cleaner. Chlorine is nasty stuff. I work with hundreds of thousands of pounds of it at work. Bad juju if you let the green devil out!
Ryush806 said:Yea...very bad. I used to work in a pulp mill / bleach plant and I always got a little spooked when I saw a decent sized green cloud floating about.
kickflip_mj said:You guys really covered all the bases! All of this information should be really helpful when I muster up some courage tomorrow and finish sanding the bit%$ and prime it.
Do you think I would be OK with paint that's rated to 1200 deg when I have a stainless heat shield around the burners?
kickflip_mj said:So after I smashed my toe with the stand I hobbled around and got it painted! Just to let you know the KBS coating is a really nice paint
kickflip_mj said:It actually looks amazing! Tons of wet sanding, primer and top coats. I used the glazing but ended up chipping it out because no matter what I did it was visible under the paint. The lbs paint I used dried to a hard coating without any tacky residue like some paints leave.
kickflip_mj said:Sadly it's going to be a month or two, I just have to purchase all the electronics and the gas valve set up. So it really adds up.
Let me know if you need any tri clovers 1, 1 1/2, 2, and I have 8 x 1/2 tri clamps. I'll sell them for super cheap. I don't really need all of them
kickflip_mj said:Sadly it's going to be a month or two, I just have to purchase all the electronics and the gas valve set up. So it really adds up.
Let me know if you need any tri clovers 1, 1 1/2, 2, and I have 8 x 1/2 tri clamps. I'll sell them for super cheap. I don't really need all of them
That's the worst part about builds like this, you order a ton of parts so you don't run out, but you always have way to many or not enough
I'm excited, tomorrow I am going to start putting it back together and see how shinny she looks!
Cool, post pics.
I finished sanding everything to 80 grit yesterday. Beginning to do a final test fit of all the hardware to make sure I didn't forget to drill any holes and that everything lines up...then I will start priming. If I ever figure out how to post pictures I will start a build thread so you can see what I have been working on while you are building your system.
I understand. But what I do and what I recommend, for people that I do not know, are not always the same thing.
Preach it. Still a bit numb around the scar.
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