My first Partial Mash

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VonAle

Almost not Pretend Brewer
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I brewed my first PM this past weekend. “Surly Bender” kit from Northern Brewer. My 3 rd brew day under my belt (so to speak).

My first brew was the Brewers Best Black Lager extract kit. Drinking that now, has a funny after taste at the back end, but still heady and tasty. I am aware of some mistakes I made on that brew. It's fairly cloudy, maybe because I didn't strain the wort when I dumped into the fermenter, or too short in the fermenter (11 days). OG (1.048) low end of predicted range, FG (1.015) is high end.

My second brew was the BB American Amber extract kit. I corrected my earlier mistakes. Bottled after 3 weeks in primary. It's much clearer than my first brew. OG (1.050), FG (1.012).

For my 3 rd brew, I went to a PM because it can be done with the gear I have. The 5.5 lbs of grain in the kit made the house smell like a grainery. The smell of freshness explains how AG brewing can lead to better beer.

I urge other beginners like me to consider trying this. The only additional gear purchase, was the 5 gal paint strainer bags from home depot ($6). The kit cost more because it shipped cross-country to Arizona. My LHBS could probably set up an ingredient bill for less. It's more complicated and time comsuming, but worth it. About 6 hrs elapsed time from start to clean up.

For the mash process, I preheated my Coleman cooler and filled it with about 4 gals of 154 degree water and set my mash pot (154 degrees also) into the water and closed the lid. After 60 min. the mash temp was 152.The sparge went ok, except the sparge water was probably 160 by the time I poured the last cup.

I went with a 4 gal boil in my 20 qt pot. The only problem, I don't have enough BTU's using my outdoor kitchen (double burners, 12k btu each). It took about 30 min to boil from mash out.

I have some questions:
First wort hop addition (.25 oz) went in right away, 30 min before the boil started. Is that significant to alter the IBU's ? The sample tasted hoppy.
Also, the recipe used 3.5 oz hops. My hop sock was a compacted ball when I took out to drain about 5 min before flame out. Is that normal or should I reconsider using a hop sock and strain some other way ?

My OG = 1.061.

Thanks all, Happy brewing !
 
I personally do not like hop socks, it's just me. I simply throw the hops in, and then filter them out with a wire mesh strainer going into the fermenting bucket. This also helps to aerate the wort.
 
I personally do not like hop socks, it's just me. I simply throw the hops in, and then filter them out with a wire mesh strainer going into the fermenting bucket. This also helps to aerate the wort.

Will a (sanitized) 5 gal paint strainer, work to strain into the fermenter?

What is your take on the first wort hopping. When it takes so long for me to get to boil, should I wait till I get closer to boil to add ?
 
Will a (sanitized) 5 gal paint strainer, work to strain into the fermenter?

You bet.

What is your take on the first wort hopping. When it takes so long for me to get to boil, should I wait till I get closer to boil to add ?

First wort hopping is cool, you'll just want to factor that in when calculating IBUs (most brewing software has that capability). You will get a slightly higher AA extraction out of first wort hopping just as you will get slightly higher extraction if it takes you a long time to get your wort cooled down after the boil.
 
Does your LHBS have a crusher for the grains? Do they stock grains for all grain brewing? Do you realize how close you were to doing an all grain brew in a bag?

You can do a 3 gallon brew in a bag right in the kitchen with the equipment you already have if you can get the grains crushed. My LHBS doesn't have a crusher so I bought a cheap grain mill and started my all grain brewing that way.
 
I use hop pellets and have never strained them back out of my wort before fermentation...they don't seem to hurt anything and end up compacted in the yeast sediment when I rack to bottling bucket eventually.

I love doing partial mashes and will continue to do so until I have the funds to build my laudering tun!
 
My LHBS does have all that.

At 1.25 qts/lb. I would be limited to about 10lbs grain bill, correct?

I really like the idea of the BIAB.
 
If you have any spare cooler that is 40qt or better, you can build a very inexpensive mash tun. Check this out http://www.donosborn.com/homebrew/mashtun.htm. I will be doing this in the next few weeks and you can use for partial mash as well as all grain. Also, you should look into joining the Arizona Society of Homebrewers (ASH).The meetings are great and membership comes with discounts to all the LHBS's in the Valley as well as a lot of local pubs. :mug:
 
Yooper said:
How big is your cooler? You can mash about 10-12 pounds of grain in a 5 gallon cooler.

My boil pot is 20 qts. What is the displacement ratio for the grains? Is 1.2 qrts/lb sound right?
 
With all due respect OClair and Yooper, Thanks for your encouragement. I do have a cooler that I can use to make a MLT. But I think I would need a bigger boil pot and suitable heat source first.

Am I correct to say that I am limited to Partial mashes in my 20 qrt boil pot ?
I can't mash 12 lb of grain without the capacity for the full boil, correct?

For now I want to avoid purchasing bigger and better gear, before I have a better understanding of the fundamentals. I think the Partial mashes are within my limits and give me some reasonable experience.
 
With all due respect OClair and Yooper, Thanks for your encouragement. I do have a cooler that I can use to make a MLT. But I think I would need a bigger boil pot and suitable heat source first.

Am I correct to say that I am limited to Partial mashes in my 20 qrt boil pot ?
I can't mash 12 lb of grain without the capacity for the full boil, correct?

For now I want to avoid purchasing bigger and better gear, before I have a better understanding of the fundamentals. I think the Partial mashes are within my limits and give me some reasonable experience.

You can do small batches in the boil pot you have, or you can use some DME and water to top off for larger batches. I think a partial mash would be perfect for you in this case.
 
+1 to what Yooper says (always!). You can still make and use the MLT with your cooler for your partial mash and will more than likely get better efficiency than BIAB. When you are ready to expand, turkey fryer kits can cost between $30-$60 and come with a burner and pot well suited for the full boil. If the kit comes with an aluminum pot, just boil some water in it to season and oxidize before brewing. Enjoy the journey!
 
Does your LHBS have a crusher for the grains? Do they stock grains for all grain brewing? Do you realize how close you were to doing an all grain brew in a bag?

You can do a 3 gallon brew in a bag right in the kitchen with the equipment you already have if you can get the grains crushed. My LHBS doesn't have a crusher so I bought a cheap grain mill and started my all grain brewing that way.

Take a 5 gallon size batch and cut all the ingredient amounts in half and you can do it in the 20 qt. pot that you have. I've done several that way to get a feel for all grain before I bought a turkey fryer so I could do 5 gallon batches. If you have a good thermometer, get your grains double crushed, use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag (mine has an elastic top and fits perfect on both my 20 and 30 qt pots) you can do it and get great efficiency too. I've mostly gotten 80% but as I learn how to do it more efficiently I have accidentally gotten 85%.
 
Take a 5 gallon size batch and cut all the ingredient amounts in half and you can do it in the 20 qt. pot that you have. I've done several that way to get a feel for all grain before I bought a turkey fryer so I could do 5 gallon batches. If you have a good thermometer, get your grains double crushed, use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag (mine has an elastic top and fits perfect on both my 20 and 30 qt pots) you can do it and get great efficiency too. I've mostly gotten 80% but as I learn how to do it more efficiently I have accidentally gotten 85%.

So I end up with a 2.5 gal batch. Does that work ok in a 5 gal fermenter?
 
Yes, the extra headroom will be taken up with CO2, so no worries.

Yeah, but don't rack to secondary unless you are adding fermentables as a secondary addition, because you're headspace would not fill with Co2 and your beer would oxidize. Just leave it in primary for 3-4 weeks until you bottle.
 
Take a 5 gallon size batch and cut all the ingredient amounts in half and you can do it in the 20 qt. pot that you have. I've done several that way to get a feel for all grain before I bought a turkey fryer so I could do 5 gallon batches. If you have a good thermometer, get your grains double crushed, use a 5 gallon paint strainer bag (mine has an elastic top and fits perfect on both my 20 and 30 qt pots) you can do it and get great efficiency too. I've mostly gotten 80% but as I learn how to do it more efficiently I have accidentally gotten 85%.

Except for ending up with half as much beer for the same work, I like it.
Double crush because it's a small volume ?
 
No, double crush because it raises the efficiency of the conversion. Since the water has to reach the particle's center to let the enzymes work you want a very fine crush but with a conventional mash tun you need the grainbed to form a filter to keep the fine particles out of the boiling pot so you sacrifice efficiency to ensure your filter doesn't plug up. (see stuck sparge) With BIAB you have such a large filter area that this isn't a problem, plus you can squeeze the bag to force the wort out if the filter does get a bit stopped up. I've been able to do a 2 1/2 gallon batch in about 3 1/2 hours compared to the 6 to 7 hours being reported by those who do conventional mash.
 
No, double crush because it raises the efficiency of the conversion. Since the water has to reach the particle's center to let the enzymes work you want a very fine crush but with a conventional mash tun you need the grainbed to form a filter to keep the fine particles out of the boiling pot so you sacrifice efficiency to ensure your filter doesn't plug up. (see stuck sparge) With BIAB you have such a large filter area that this isn't a problem, plus you can squeeze the bag to force the wort out if the filter does get a bit stopped up. I've been able to do a 2 1/2 gallon batch in about 3 1/2 hours compared to the 6 to 7 hours being reported by those who do conventional mash.

I spent 6 hours last weekend. Would love to get it down to 3.5 hours.
Easily, I spent 1 to 2 hours waiting and screwing around getting my temperatures.
 
No, double crush because it raises the efficiency of the conversion. Since the water has to reach the particle's center to let the enzymes work you want a very fine crush but with a conventional mash tun you need the grainbed to form a filter to keep the fine particles out of the boiling pot so you sacrifice efficiency to ensure your filter doesn't plug up. (see stuck sparge) With BIAB you have such a large filter area that this isn't a problem, plus you can squeeze the bag to force the wort out if the filter does get a bit stopped up. I've been able to do a 2 1/2 gallon batch in about 3 1/2 hours compared to the 6 to 7 hours being reported by those who do conventional mash.

I read over at BIAB, that they mash for 90 min, boil for 90 min, rest for 10 min. then cool.

That is radically different than most brewing instructions I've read.
Mash-60, Boil-60, then immediately cool.
 
if you use Pilsner malt you should boil for the 90 minutes because of its tendency to have precursors to DMS which the extra boiling time takes care of.

If you have your malt crushed fine like you should, your conversion should be done in about 20 minutes. I still mash for the full hour. If you look at the water in the mash when you add the grains it will be cloudy from the starches. Look again in 15 minutes and it will be mostly clear because the enzymes have converted the starch to sugar. Taste it when you add the grain and again when you look in at 15 minutes and you will discover that it really is sweet wort now. Give it enough time to fully convert though. I keep thinking I should do an iodine test at 15 or 20 minutes to see if it has fully converted. It might shave another half hour off my brewing day leaving me enough time to do another.
 

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