Most efficient type of mashing paddle/smasher to use?

[jcorn]

I am just curious what everyone out there is using to stir their dough in/possibly mid mash stir with? I have looked at everything from simple mash paddles to rakes, drill bit attaching paint mixers/mud mixers and long handled potato mashers. I am looking to finally upgrade my crappy plastic mash paddle and Stainless spoon. I want to get rid of these dough balls in a more timely manner. The potato smashers seem very useful to me. The drill bit attaching paint mixers also look good as well but I am worried about them possibly grabbing ahold of my bag and ripping it. I use a 20 gallon pot to do 10.5 gallon batches with. What do you use?

 

[RM-MN]

My batches are smaller but what works for me is a wire whisk. Once the grain is wetted it doesn't seem to affect the mixing as I only have to stir in the dry grains right at the top.

 

[Mojzis]

I had a chunk of oak left over from a stair tread project. It made a nice mash paddle. Strong, thin, light and won't scratch my equipment. Works like a charm.

 

[IslandLizard]

I gather you're using BIAB, hence your valid concern about catching or ripping the bag with a rotating mixer, and I wouldn't use that method for that reason. It can be outright dangerous.

I don't do BIAB but in my cooler mashtun I use a large stainless "stirring" spoon which has 3/8" holes in it, and have very few issues with dough balls unless I mash in thicker than a 1.25 ratio. I prefer 1.33 actually. A little thinner makes it easier to stir too. What ratio does yours end up with?

The height you're mashing makes a difference how well and easy you can stir and how much power you can exert. I prefer the tun being low, which is raised about 10-12" off the floor right now, but up to 24" could still work for me, since I'm 6'1.

 

[pablosbrewing]

My batches are smaller but what works for me is a wire whisk. Once the grain is wetted it doesn't seem to affect the mixing as I only have to stir in the dry grains right at the top.

Amazon has a 24" stainless whisk delivered for about 10 bucks if you have Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AGX3BK/ref=oh_details_o03_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[wilserbrewer]

Looking myself, so I did a little browsing. I'm not convinced that shape is as important as length, and w/ BIAB thinner mashes mix pretty easily IME. The heavy stainless paddles could nick the bag if your not careful banging the paddle against the pot? Length of paddle is dependant on kettle height, for a typical 20" kettle, a 30" length seems about right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Update-Inte...183?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0853951f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Update-Inte...213?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d08539925

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MPD-36-Stai...860?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5653486904

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bayou-Class...024?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5afb4fab30

http://www.ebay.com/itm/spoon-21-co...?pt=Kitchen_Tools_Gadgets&hash=item20c9fffa07

http://www.shopatdean.com/store/pc/Adcraft-24-French-Heavy-Wire-Whip-FWE-24-256p3061.htm

http://www.shopatdean.com/store/pc/Adcraft-36-Hd-French-Heavy-Wire-Whip-FWE-36-256p3062.htm

only $2.99 24" potato masher....
http://www.shopatdean.com/store/pc/Polar-Ware-24-Potato-Masher-T1405-225p8620.htm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-Commer...409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c688b76d1

 

[MaxStout]

I do BIAB, and made a paddle from a piece of 1/2" thick maple. It's not pretty, but does the trick. I drilled a bunch of 3/4" holes in the paddle and it breaks up doughballs quite well. I rounded over all edges with a 1/8" radius router bit, so no worries about a corner snagging the bag.

 

[Yesfan]

Have you thought about making your own?

link


I just use the cheap 24" plastic paddle. Like Wilser posted, a stainless paddle could nick the bag. That was the reason why I just stayed with el cheapo plastico for mine.

I want to try to make my own. I suck at carpentry, but I want something that's "me", sort of like how each Light saber is specific to each Jedi. I've had a few other projects in the way, but I'll eventually make my own.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Yea, I would like to make one out of a baseball bat, I'm thinking a 3/8" slice down the middle of a small bat would be perfect.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Sorry double post

 

[wilserbrewer]

On the left is a paddle I made out of a piece of oak flooring, on the right is a bamboo stirrer I found years ago at a dollar store, I much prefer the smaller one unless I'm large batching. A paddle that is too large is inconvenient.

24 gallon kettle about 20" high for scale.

 

[MaxStout]

Yea, I would like to make one out of a baseball bat, I'm thinking a 3/8" slice down the middle of a small bat would be perfect.

Cool idea! But cut it down from the big end and stop about 8-10" shy of the end of the handle. That way you still have that round bat handle to hold on to.

The "Louisville Masher"?

Now to go find an old baseball bat to slice up on my band saw...

 

[wilserbrewer]

Cool idea! But cut it down from the big end and stop about 8-10" shy of the end of the handle. That way you still have that round bat handle to hold on to.

The "Louisville Masher"?

Now to go find an old baseball bat to slice up on my band saw...

Haha, yes I actually did think of leaving the handle intact, but without a band saw (jealous), not quite sure what I would do?

I guess a table saw or circular saw, with a belt sander to hide my sins

 

[jcorn]

I gather you're using BIAB, hence your valid concern about catching or ripping the bag with a rotating mixer, and I wouldn't use that method for that reason. It can be outright dangerous.

I don't do BIAB but in my cooler mashtun I use a large stainless "stirring" spoon which has 3/8" holes in it, and have very few issues with dough balls unless I mash in thicker than a 1.25 ratio. I prefer 1.33 actually. A little thinner makes it easier to stir too. What ratio does yours end up with?

The height you're mashing makes a difference how well and easy you can stir and how much power you can exert. I prefer the tun being low, which is raised about 10-12" off the floor right now, but up to 24" could still work for me, since I'm 6'1.

I currently do 2qts/lb. So it is a nice thin/easier to stir mash.

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[jcorn]

Yea, I would like to make one out of a baseball bat, I'm thinking a 3/8" slice down the middle of a small bat would be perfect.

That is funny you say that because it crossed my mind as well. A baseball bat is about perfect length for me too. I like that potato smasher idea and awful lot too but then I would have to have 2 different utensils on brew day. One to stir and one to smash the bottoms. I would be afraid of snagging the bag on a corner of the potato smasher too and ripping it.

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[MaxStout]

Haha, yes I actually did think of leaving the handle intact, but without a band saw (jealous), not quite sure what I would do?

I guess a table saw or circular saw, with a belt sander to hide my sins

Trying to rip a baseball bat with a circular saw sounds scary, but it would be feasible on a table saw. Set the fence and carefully feed the bat into the blade. The trick is keeping the bat parallel to the blade, since the bat has a taper. Make sure the bat doesn't rotate and kick back. Then just use a hand saw to square up the ends of the cuts. If you do it right, you probably won't need to sand too much off the flat sides. In fact, a table saw blade could make a smoother cut than a band saw.

 

[IslandLizard]

Trying to rip a baseball bat with a circular saw sounds scary, but it would be feasible on a table saw. Set the fence and carefully feed the bat into the blade. The trick is keeping the bat parallel to the blade, since the bat has a taper. Make sure the bat doesn't rotate and kick back. Then just use a hand saw to square up the ends of the cuts. If you do it right, you probably won't need to sand too much off the flat sides. In fact, a table saw blade could make a smoother cut than a band saw.

I'd "clamp" it in a jig. Ripping round stock on a table saw without a jig is about impossible.

 

[wilserbrewer]

How bout my chainsaw?
My woodworking shop is pretty much post cave man

Maybe a coarse belt and a lot of dust w/ the belt sander hahaha

 

[MaxStout]

I'd "clamp" it in a jig. Ripping round stock on a table saw without a jig is about impossible.

Yep, that's what I do with round or irregular-shaped stock. Make a "sled" from a strip of plywood and attach the workpiece before feeding through the saw. The sled rides along the fence and ensures that the workpiece remains parallel to the blade and also does not rotate.

 

[b-boy]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00420JRZS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[jcorn]

Amazon has a 24" stainless whisk delivered for about 10 bucks if you have Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AGX3BK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I love this idea!

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[IslandLizard]

Yep, that's what I do with round or irregular-shaped stock. Make a "sled" from a strip of plywood and attach the workpiece before feeding through the saw. The sled rides along the fence and ensures that the workpiece remains parallel to the blade and also does not rotate.

Exactly! It's much safer too. Now, here's is another curve ball: securing the bat to the sled without drilling holes through it.

Although a belt sander would work, it's very difficult to keep the flat sides parallel and prevent them from rounding.

 

[IslandLizard]

I currently do 2qts/lb. So it is a nice thin/easier to stir mash.

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Yes, it's easy to stir. Could it be that your mash is too thin making it harder to stir out or break up dough balls. Like making a roux sauce, too thin and you'll get clumps when you add flour. Need some resistance to beat it smooth.

Is a ratio of 2 typical for BIAB? I know you can't control the ratio as much unless you have a 2nd pot and do serious sparging.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Is a ratio of 2 typical for BIAB? I know you can't control the ratio as much unless you have a 2nd pot and do serious sparging.

There really is no typical mash ratio for BIAB, as it is dependant on the gravity and grain required. But for a 5 gal average gravity w/ 10 lbs of grain and 7.5 gallons water required, you would have 30 qt. / 10 lbs., or 3 qt. / lb.

 

[Hello]

Yep, that's what I do with round or irregular-shaped stock. Make a "sled" from a strip of plywood and attach the workpiece before feeding through the saw. The sled rides along the fence and ensures that the workpiece remains parallel to the blade and also does not rotate.

Exactly! It's much safer too. Now, here's is another curve ball: securing the bat to the sled without drilling holes through it.

Although a belt sander would work, it's very difficult to keep the flat sides parallel and prevent them from rounding.

Absolutely make a sled. The force of a blade is not going to keep that bat on the table for long. Do not use a circular saw unless you're into workshop injuries.

I would indeed screw the bat to the sled. One screw in the bottom of the bat where I will likely drill a hole for a string or just easy hanging, and one or two where I am going to drill holes for the mash paddle anyway. You're not risking anything because you'll have holes. Just try to carefully plan where you set your screws. You can't really use clamps because you have to slide the bat on he sled and I think the table saw force is too much for double sided tape. It holds strong but I would not trust it on a table saw.

The tape I am talking about is what I use when I use guides for my route here. Pretty sure I didn't pay $20. It is turner tape but I still don't know about sticking it up against a table saw. I use it mostly when I take a square piece of wood and use my trim bit to clean up my lines or match two pieces (think cabinet doors) so they're both exactly alike.

 

[nutty_gnome]

While it is fun to have a crazy custom mash spoon.... The big whisks are really the way to go. You can mash em up and down like a potato masher. You don't have so much flat area that you create a wave as you stir and slop your mash over the edge of your tun. Whisks are BIAB safe; no sharp edges. They offer little resistance as you stir it round and round in the mash making it easy to use. And they are the right size to clean later in a bucket of soapy water.

When you think about it, all you need to do is ensure that water is evenly distributed among the grains, you don't need to send your mash on a merry-go-round ride.

 

[iowabrew]

+1 to the wire wisk. I BIAB and i've had really good luck using a spaghetti ladle as well

 

[IslandLizard]

[snip] I would indeed screw the bat to the sled. One screw in the bottom of the bat where I will likely drill a hole for a string or just easy hanging, and one or two where I am going to drill holes for the mash paddle anyway. You're not risking anything because you'll have holes. Just try to carefully plan where you set your screws. You can't really use clamps because you have to slide the bat on he sled and I think the table saw force is too much for double sided tape. It holds strong but I would not trust it on a table saw.

The tape I am talking about is what I use when I use guides for my route here. Pretty sure I didn't pay $20. It is turner tape but I still don't know about sticking it up against a table saw. I use it mostly when I take a square piece of wood and use my trim bit to clean up my lines or match two pieces (think cabinet doors) so they're both exactly alike.

I wouldn't trust that tape either with the ripping forces from a table saw. Like you said, I'd go with a few strategically placed screws, as long as they don't end up in weak areas later on. You can always make plugs and fill those screw holes. Or fill with copper or stainless screws and cut the heads off flush, making a interesting signature/design.

 

[jcorn]

While it is fun to have a crazy custom mash spoon.... The big whisks are really the way to go. You can mash em up and down like a potato masher. You don't have so much flat area that you create a wave as you stir and slop your mash over the edge of your tun. Whisks are BIAB safe; no sharp edges. They offer little resistance as you stir it round and round in the mash making it easy to use. And they are the right size to clean later in a bucket of soapy water.

When you think about it, all you need to do is ensure that water is evenly distributed among the grains, you don't need to send your mash on a merry-go-round ride.

I am definitely going with a whisk. Morebeer.com even has that big 24" stainless for 7.99 and I was putting an order in anyways so shipping is free

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[MaxStout]

I wouldn't trust that tape either with the ripping forces from a table saw. Like you said, I'd go with a few strategically placed screws, as long as they don't end up in weak areas later on. You can always make plugs and fill those screw holes. Or fill with copper or stainless screws and cut the heads off flush, making a interesting signature/design.

I've used wood glue, allowing it to dry overnight. I also tack a small block of wood to the tail end of the sled, right behind the workpiece, as a backup. Then I rip away. After I'm done I can easily sand off the bits of glue. Never had one come loose in the saw. Still, I don't stand directly behind the workpiece, just in case the blade binds and causes kickback. The top of my table saw is level with a part of my anatomy I'd prefer to keep.

On the band saw, there isn't a kickback problem, and I just use pieces of double-sided carpet tape.