Mixing in fining solution without oxidizing

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tiredofbuyingbeer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2016
Messages
231
Reaction score
41
I added biofine clear to a beer today. I've used it before, but I'm not sure if I've gotten great results. Part of the problem, I think, is that I've just dropped it in. I haven't done anything to mix it. So this time, I swirled my fermenter a little. But now I'm worried that I might have oxidized my beer a little--more than I'd like to, anyway. Is there a better way to do this?

If you're not familiar with biofine clear, it's a vegetarian alternative to gelatin. I assume that the problem I'm having wouldn't be any different were I using a solution of gelatin and water.

Edit: By "better way," in my case, it has to roughly match my fermentation and packaging methods. It wouldn't do me any good to be told to rack to secondary on top of the biofine solution, because it's not worth the trouble to me to do a secondary where I otherwise would not, and it wouldn't do me any good to tell me to keg, since I don't own any kegs or have any fridge space to store them.
 
I reckon you're fine, boyo. I have extremely unscientific opinions at the topic but here's what I've found:


  • I'm not particularly careful when transferring and I have yet to have an oxidation incident
  • Transferring to secondary exposes more surface area to air and keeps the liquid moving for 2-8 minutes, and that beer also tends to be fine
  • Extra anecdotally, I've seen a lot of people post about stirring gelatin in and I don't see a lot of those folks talking about oxidized beer

I doubt your biofine will cause radically different results, and I think the risk of oxidation is frequently oversold in the homebrew community.

What I am curious about is why you need the finings. Even with fairly... questionable levels of skill, I'm satisfied with the clarity of my brews.
 
I usually primary for 3-4 weeks. I can't cold crash, though. The closest I can come is to drop the temperature into the high 40's.

I've had clarity issues, probably more from chill haze than yeast. But I guess I just want some of my beers to be as clear as possible and to have a little trub as practicable.

Also, with this particular beer, I used a really light water profile, one notably light on calcium. I've read different things, that possibly this is something to worry about and that probably it isn't. But calcium can affect yeast flocculation. So i figured more help would be better for this one.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top