After cold crashing both before and after fermenting, how cold do the bottles need to be to solidify the years at the bottom?
Move the fermenter to wherever you bottle the day before bottling day, to allow time for any agitated trub to re-settle. Careful racking makes a big difference--gradually move the racking cane down as the level in the fermenter decreases, keeping the inlet an inch or two below the surface the whole time. Don't let the end plunge into the trub at the end. If you carefully tip the fermenter during the last stage of racking, you can get all but a pint or so without much trub.
After bottle conditioning is complete, refrigeration will help tighten up whatever trub is in the bottles. Of course, your results will vary depending on the yeast strain.
If it's in your budget, consider getting a Brew Bucket. It has a conical bottom that collects the trub and a valve that allows you to rack right above the trub. No racking cane to risk stirring up the trub.
I think I read somewhere that doesn't work very well, the yeast/trub cake slides forward again. Someone suggested putting an elbow on the inside to raise the level you're draining from. The higher that level, the more beer you may be leaving behind.if I put the fermenting bucket at an angle
Get one!I don't have a racking cane
This was mentioned earlier. Use of secondaries is not needed and are a main cause of (unwanted) oxidation, and possible infections. Leave in primary until ready to bottle.move to a secondary
If the beer isn't clear enough a week after fermentation has ended, yes, cold crashing for a few days to a week, especially with the help of some gelatin, does wonders to clarify the beer.Or should I still cold crash before bottling?
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