Dark Mild Mild Mannered Ale (AG) (E) UK/US

[JPrather]

I am really excited to try this extract recipe and I happen to have some marris otter. Not quite enough of it though so I thought to use light dme too.
Extract 5 gallons
3.15 lb Marris otter LME
1 lb light dme
.8 lb crystal 60
.25 lb chocolate malt

.87 oz fuggles for 45 min
.87 oz fuggles for 15 min

Nottingham dry yeast

I plugged this into Qbrew and my og is 1.036 Bitterness 25 Color 18 degrees alc:3.5% I will look for british versions of the steeping grains, I think my lhbs carries uk crystal 70-80 and uk chocolate. if not then I'll grab generic stuff.

If this recipe doesn't look right let me know. I don't have beer smith and Qbrew is the only free calculator with a large database of malts. Salud!

I just brewed something similar. Looks find, though I highly recommend using the late extract method with this. If you steep your crystal/chocolate, and then put the DME in at the beginning of the boil, but wait until the last 15 minutes to put in your Maris Otter Extract, you will lessen scorching/caramelization of your wort, and get better hop utilization.

With the late addition of the LME you will probably only need .75oz of Fuggles for each addition rather than .87. Save some money and have a bit more even number .

 

[beerofhrod]

I gathered the steeping grains for this batch but I had to settle for US versions of the grains. I've read that without uk grains it needs 2oz of debittered black malt for color correction so the clerk at the lhbs suggested carafa 2 oz.
Used 4 gallons to steep and boil.
.8lb crystal 60
4oz chocolate
2oz carafa3
1lb light dme
6-8 drops fermcap
3.15lb marris otter lme
.75oz fuggles 45min
.75oz fuggles 15
1/2 tab of whirfloc at 15mins

I cooled it down then poured through a paint strainer into my bucket. The cold break solidified into a a big lump which I squeezed the wort out of. Topped off then aerated with a stone and pump. Poured in rehydrated nottingham.
8 hours later there wasn't much activity in the airlock but there was about an inch of krausen. Then about 16 hours later the airlock had evidence of activity but not much. tonight will be 48 hours so i hope to find some action.

 

[brew_ny]

8 hours later there wasn't much activity in the airlock but there was about an inch of krausen. Then about 16 hours later the airlock had evidence of activity but not much. tonight will be 48 hours so i hope to find some action.

I just kegged a 11.5 gallon all grain batch of this, I was surprised at how it fermented

it has to be the lower gravity the yeast cake was smaller, but all the numbers were right on the money

and going into the kegs sample I tasted was outstanding, I will be drinking it this weekend

all the best

S_M

 

[beerofhrod]

I pulled a hydrometer sample tonight and it's at 1013 seventy two hours after pitching. I know the yeast didn't get an excellent re-hydration because I used a jenky home RO system for my hydration water. it tastes really good now, I can imagine 3 weeks from now it'll be excellent.

 

[shark_sandwich]

Looking to brew this this weekend can't find UK malts in my area anyone sub black patent malt 500 SRM for the Thomas Fawcett Chocolate malt 509 SRM what would be the difference in flavor or should I just go with US Chocolate malt 350 SRM.

 

[Rdom]

I brewed it with US Chocolate malt and it turned out fine. Haven't done it any other way so can't comment on how it compares to UK malt.

Sent from my MB865 using Home Brew mobile app

 

[stpug]

Looking to brew this this weekend can't find UK malts in my area anyone sub black patent malt 500 SRM for the Thomas Fawcett Chocolate malt 509 SRM what would be the difference in flavor or should I just go with US Chocolate malt 350 SRM.

Black patent would not be a good sub for UK chocolate at all - different stuff with widely different flavors (acrid and ashy versus chocolaty and nutty). US chocolate is a closer match but generally a little tamer with maybe a touch more of a chocolate character than UK. I would definitely opt for the US chocolate over roasted barley or black patent.

 

[beerofhrod]

17 days in primary and I kegged my batch on 3/21/14. I put a blanket of co2 on it and let it sit for a few days while I solved a problem I was having with my regulator. After I fixed my reg the keg was down to about 39 degrees in a ice chest. I put it on 7-9 lbs of co2 and rocked it for a few minutes a few times a day for the next 48 hours. It poured a nice beer with a creamy head. there was a ton of lacing and spiderwebs inside the mug. It's really nice, it has a whole bunch of chill haze but I don't mind.

I drank a few pints today, I'm probably not giving it enough of a chance to carbonate properly since it hasn't poured like the first time. next time I will use .87 oz of fuggles at each addition. It would have been even tastier with the correct amount.

 

[cfd577]

I brewed this as Orfys recipe is and has great flavor but is missing mouthfeel to me. Can anyone suggest the best way to add more mouthfeel for my taste. I was thinking adding malto dextrin, cara pils or flaked oats but not sure what would work best.

 

[brew_ny]

I brewed this as Orfys recipe is and has great flavor but is missing mouthfeel to me. Can anyone suggest the best way to add more mouthfeel for my taste. I was thinking adding malto dextrin, cara pils or flaked oats but not sure what would work best.

or maybe flaked barley

I am brewing this again next week and was thinking of adding a couple pounds of flaked barley to a 11.5 gallon batch

or maybe a pound of flaked barley and a pound of malto-dextrin which works nicely in my porters

mine is a bit thin but my mash temp was a bit off it was my first electric brew with new setup

now I am dialed in good so I really want to do this beer again, it is great to drink and you can pour a bunch down your neck and do things

all the best

S_M

 

[MindenMan]

This recipe looks odd, I know, but you really need to try it. At two months, the flavor is spectacular as the hint of chocolate comes in at the end of your sip. I wish I would have made a 10 gallon batch instead of 5, when I brewed this. I have made many Mild, Dark English Milds, and other recipes that I made into a Mild.

Here it is:
Brown malt 0.380 lb
Chocolate Wheat malt 0.50 lb
Crystal 40 0.50 lb
Molasses 0.125 lb
Special Roast 0.50 lb
Two-Row 4.00 lb

Wyeast 1968, no starter
Mash at 154*F for 60 minutes
Cluster 0.5 oz @ 90 "
U.K. Fuggles 0.5 oz @ 60
Irish Moss 1 tsp @ "15 "
Cocoa Powder 2 oz @ 5 minutes
Oats were toasted @ 325 until browned

Ferment at 64* F

The wheat adds a nice mouth feel

 

[JPrather]

This recipe looks odd, I know, but you really need to try it. At two months, the flavor is spectacular as the hint of chocolate comes in at the end of your sip. I wish I would have made a 10 gallon batch instead of 5, when I brewed this. I have made many Mild, Dark English Milds, and other recipes that I made into a Mild.

Here it is:
Brown malt 0.380 lb
Chocolate Wheat malt 0.50 lb
Crystal 40 0.50 lb
Molasses 0.125 lb
Special Roast 0.50 lb
Two-Row 4.00 lb

Wyeast 1968, no starter
Mash at 154*F for 60 minutes
Cluster 0.5 oz @ 90 "
U.K. Fuggles 0.5 oz @ 60
Irish Moss 1 tsp @ "15 "
Cocoa Powder 2 oz @ 5 minutes
Oats were toasted @ 325 until browned

Ferment at 64* F

The wheat adds a nice mouth feel

Huh, I just made an experimental 2.5 gal starter batch of something very similar to this in different amounts. Used a little darker british crystal and split the chocolate between chocolate wheat and rye.

It came out ridiculously thin and watery. I had given up on trying to tweak it to make it better but since this is so similar I might give it a shot.

P.S. You mention toasting oats but I don't see an amount anywhere.

 

[aStoutObserver]

Brewed this up. Hit my numbers. I'm looking forward to this one.

 

[aStoutObserver]

Drinking my first one now. Solid beer. Thanks Orfy

 

[Mark_tries_brewing]

Thank you to Orfy! Brewed this, entered it into a competition, and got a gold! Brewed the 5 gal US version posted on the first page by Orfy. Of course feel free to tweak and get it exactly as you want (that's the point of home brewing anyway) but the recipe as posted is a great beer. I was especially please when a Local Brit ex-pat said "that's a mild alright" after tasting.

 

[frankjones]

Hi folks. I was wondering if it would be close to orfys recipe if I used cascade hops with safale o4

Or should I wait until I can get noting ham and fuggle hops

I have all the other supplies on hand except for the fuggles and Nottingham

I do have safale o4 and cascade hops on hand

I would have to do mail order to get those ingredients.

 

[stpug]

Willamette, Styrian Golding, American Tettnanger are all good fuggle substitutes. Unfortunately, Cascade is pretty different.

S04 can work but you'll definitely want to mash much lower to reach FG and will end up with more fruity esters than Notty gives. Otherwise a clean ale yeast would work as a sub (US05, WLP001, WY1056, MJ US West Coast, WLP007, Dry English Ale).

Then again, there's no harm in experimenting

 

[frankjones]

Willamette, Styrian Golding, American Tettnanger are all good fuggle substitutes. Unfortunately, Cascade is pretty different.

S04 can work but you'll definitely want to mash much lower to reach FG and will end up with more fruity esters than Notty gives. Otherwise a clean ale yeast would work as a sub (US05, WLP001, WY1056, MJ US West Coast, WLP007, Dry English Ale).

Then again, there's no harm in experimenting

I have plenty of safale. I and Czech sazz too. Would that work?

 

[frankjones]

I have never drank a mild English ale and would like to get the true, real taste. Can't get any thing exotic around here... Lol Sam Adams or blue moon is top shelf in these parts.

 

[stpug]

Czech Saaz wouldn't be a great sub for an British hop variety, which is not to say it wouldn't make a good brew - just won't give the British "flavor".

Challenger, East Kent Goldings, Willamette, WGV, US Golding would all be good subs for Fuggles.

If you don't mind me asking, what hops to you have at your disposal? Maybe you have something what would work well I'm not thinking of, or would make for a good English Mild. I've recently brewed a couple milds with: 1) fuggles bitter and midboil, with saaz to finish; and 2) challenger bitter and challenger/serebrianka to finish. Both have been very well received. Perhaps equally (if not moreso) as important as your hop choice is your yeast choice in a British ale. I think s04 would make for a spendid mild with some fruity esters as long as you keep it pegged at around 67F. The hops play a background roll in this beer so subbing them out with something non-aggressive shouldn't make too big a difference IMHO.

 

[frankjones]

I have cascade and Czech saaz on hand. I bought large 8 ounce each bags from Midwest. The lhbs charges $4.49 an ounce for hops union. That's all they carry and I'm tired of being ripped off. The hops from Midwest turned out to be arong $1.45 per ounce. Orders over $60 get free shipping.

 

[stpug]

$4.50/oz sounds extremely unreasonable for some British hops. Are you sure those aren't 2oz packs they're selling?

Regardless, I believe you can make a tasty English mild using your two hops, it just won't be "traditional". If your cascade are moderate alpha acid (5-6%) then use the appropriate amount at 60minutes to gain the IBUs called for at 45 minutes (about 15 IBUs). The reason I suggest putting them in at 60min instead of 45min is to give extra time to drive out any imparted flavors from the cascade; you don't want any/much citrus to come through from the cascades. With the small amount you'll use and the 60minute boil, I don't think you'll get much (if any) citrus character to come through. As for the Saaz, you can simply use them in place of the 15minute fuggles though you might fall a tad short on IBUs since Saaz tend to be a lower alpha acid. You can compensate by adding them at 20min instead of 15min; or adding a small amount more saaz at 15min; or adding a small amount more cascade at 60min to make up for your deficit at 15min; or leave it alone and don't compensate for the couple missing IBUs. If I had to pick one, I would probably move my addition to 20 minutes and leave it at that.

As long as your grainbill is pretty close to the original then you're final outcome will definitely be in the ballpark of the original recipe; some subtle differences maybe but nothing overly profound.

The first time I had a mild I thought to myself, "This is like a lightweight, more watery porter". It was good beer but I did get a little astringency from my process. Since then, I've made two more milds and really like their drinkability. At ~3% ABV, you can have 3 or 4 without tipping over .

Enjoy and have fun!!

 

[frankjones]

Definitely one ounce package for $4.49.

He sells. Pale ale malt.. The cheapest one is $1.99 a pound. The store is way over priced.

My buddies and I calculated this... We each spent around $55 the bill at Midwest was $110. The same stuff locally would have been $225. That store if the only store for hours in any direction.

I saw on eBay a four ounce bulk hops from Oregon for $6.99 for fuggle. I think I'll order that. And probably from the same sellerseller a few other things.

 

[frankjones]

I'm going to do this recipe with the fuggle when they come in. I'll follow the original recipe on page one. I'm going to do a 2.5 gallon batch. Can you suggest the amount and times I should hop, I want the beer to be as authentic as possible to English mild.

 

[stpug]

Looks like 10.5-11.5 grams of Fuggles at 45min and 15min each would keep the proportion of the recipe, depending if you follow the original 6.5G batch measurements or the adjusted 5G batch measurements. Split the difference (11 grams) and you should be good as long as your Fuggles are around 4.5% AA. Stick with the original hop addition times if you're using Fuggles so you can be as close to the intended recipe as possible. The difference in IBUs would be negligible for a half gram of low alpha hops in a 2.5G batch so you should be good anywhere between 10.5-11.5 grams for each addition.

I'd be interested in how it all works out for you. Let us know (if you remember to )!

 

[frankjones]

Ill def innately post back with my results. I have made six batches all grain and a few extract. I have my process down where its consistent and repeatable with 2.5 gallon batches. All the batches of ag I have done I have weighed and measured all the grain after steeping and then measured after boil so I know what my boil off rate is and absorption rate is. My last beer was DECENT. I really liked it. The ones before that were ok. Im getting very detailed with notes, paying attention to ibu, srm and learning about water profiles now.

 

[frankjones]

Looks like 10.5-11.5 grams of Fuggles at 45min and 15min each would keep the proportion of the recipe, depending if you follow the original 6.5G batch measurements or the adjusted 5G batch measurements. Split the difference (11 grams) and you should be good as long as your Fuggles are around 4.5% AA. Stick with the original hop addition times if you're using Fuggles so you can be as close to the intended recipe as possible. The difference in IBUs would be negligible for a half gram of low alpha hops in a 2.5G batch so you should be good anywhere between 10.5-11.5 grams for each addition.

I'd be interested in how it all works out for you. Let us know (if you remember to )!

to keep inline with original recipes I do not divide anything I use a calculator and come up with the percent of grain bill.

so if a grain bill have 67 % of something I figure that out and then weigh out on my scale that measures pounds, ounces and grams.

 

[frankjones]

This is what I came up with using brewers friend, what temp do you think I should mash at? I do a no sparge mash/steep to retain malt character.
I filled in 150 degrees for mash.... just curious your thoughts.

HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: english mild

Brew Method: BIAB
Style Name: Mild
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 2.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 3.75 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.025
Efficiency: 65% (brew house)

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.037
Final Gravity: 1.010
ABV (standard): 3.53%
IBU (tinseth): 20
SRM (morey): 19.85

FERMENTABLES:
3 lb - United Kingdom - Maris Otter Pale (76.9%)
0.75 lb - American - Caramel / Crystal 60L (19.2%)
0.15 lb - American - Chocolate (3.8%)

HOPS:
0.33 oz - Fuggles, Type: Pellet, AA: 4.5, Use: Boil for 45 min, IBU: 12.98
0.33 oz - Fuggles, Type: Pellet, AA: 4.5, Use: Boil for 15 min, IBU: 7.02

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Temperature, Temp: 150 F, Time: 90 min, Amount: 13 qt, no sparge

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - English Ale Yeast S-04
Starter: No
Form: Dry
Attenuation (avg): 72%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Temp: 59 - 75 F
Fermentation Temp: 67 F
Pitch Rate: 0.5 (M cells / ml / deg P)


Generated by Brewer's Friend - http://www.brewersfriend.com/
Date: 2014-08-23 01:27 UTC
Recipe Last Updated: 2014-08-23 01:06 UTC

 

[stpug]

The couple times I used S-04 I hit 69% attenuation and 71% attenuation using mash temps of 153F and 154F, respectively.

To hit a FG of 1.009-1.010 you'd be looking at about 72-75% attenuation. Based on this, in my system, I would mash at 150-152F depending on what I was hoping to hit as my FG and how I felt on this particular day .

Recollection says that S-04 has a tendency to flocculate out a little premature before hitting final gravity, so you can either rouse it using a sanitized spoon/cane after a couple days fermenting, or you can give it 24-36 hours of actual fermentation (excluding lag time) at 67F, and then bring the fermenter temp up to about 70-72F for the remainder. However you proceed, after about 5 days I would check gravity and rouse if you haven't quite hit your FG. Generally, you can get another point or two by rousing and keeping the temp in the 70s for another few days.

As for the recipe scaling, it looks pretty good. In the calculations, the IBUs fall just shy of the original recipe but they are only mathematical estimates anyway so not a big deal.

Hope you have a successful brewday!! Cheers!

 

[frankjones]

Thank you st pug!

 

[frankjones]

St Pug. I did the batch.. I hit my numbers spot on while needing 18 ounces of top up water to reach SG of 1.038 in the two gallon batch I used ten grams of fuggle at 45 and then 15 minutes. It's been fermenting for 9 days. It's down to 1.018 I transferred it to secondary fermenter and going to let it go a few more days and let the temp raise to 70 degrees using safale o4. I hope that the transfer to the secondary was enough to get some yeast back into it.

 

[stpug]

Sounds like brewday went very well, and you're getting close to a reasonable FG for this beer. A couple more points and I think you'll be set. Even if it doesn't get there i think the beer will taste fairly balanced. Did you happen to sample any at racking?

 

[frankjones]

Not yet. Sample. I'm going to sample the hydrometer sample. It's in the fridge. But I will. Just trying to finish curbing up. I also bottled a batch of Aussie light ale from Midwest.

 

[frankjones]

Mental note. Next time I may use safale us o5. Do you think that will impact the flavor drastically?

 

[frankjones]

Oh OK now. The sample was delicious. I'm usually not impressed with the samples because of lack of carbonation. I really liked it... Now... I think I will get another batch together. I'd like to know how can I make this recipe at a little higher abv with out messing up the taste. The sample was great.

 

[stpug]

US05 would reduce how the yeast impacts the flavor of the beer, and it can be anywhere from drastic to minimal. IIRC, you used S04 so switching to US05 would reduce the yeast derived esters noticeably, BUT that doesn't mean it wouldn't still be a good beer - just slightly different. Plus the resulting beer would be much drier, buy higher in ABV too. I personally think a good British yeast contributes something to this beer that is needed. Using something as "clean" as US05 or Nottingham would not be my preference. In fact, the mild I have kegged (that I've only tasted a sample of) was fermented with Ringwood Ale yeast and my recollection says it's the best I've made so far. I think the the fruitier the British ale strain, the better for a mild, IMO.

If you want to increase the ABV without significantly affecting the flavor of the original recipe then make some MILD adjustments (pun intended ). Attenuate another point or two and increase the OG a point or two. For instance, for a 5 gallon batch, increase the base malt (maris otter) by half a pound and reduce the mash temperature by a degree or two. This would probably add an additional 0.5+% ABV. If you also switched up to a yeast strain that attenuates a little more (70% attenuation) then you'd go up another 0.5% ABV, at which point you'd be 1% ABV higher than your current beer. Things like that will get you where you want to go without changing the beer too much. Another option is to keep the recipe the exact same, just add about 6 oz of regular table sugar; this will up the OG by about 4 points and drive down the FG by a couple points - plus it will contribute no additional flavors which will keep the overall aspect of the beer about the same. It might reduce the body slightly and if you found that a detriment then you could add 0.25 lb of carapils/carafoam to the recipe to add back some body. Simple sugars (like table sugar and invert sugar) are not "out of style" for this style of beer.

Hope this helps.

 

[JKaranka]

What stpug says. Adding up to half a pound of one of the darker inverts or some flaked maize is completely within the style. Lots of old mild recipes are up to 15-20% simple-ish sugars.

 

[frankjones]

That sounds like the plan. The next time I was thinking adding 1/4 pound of flaked maize and 3 ounces of corn sugar. I LOVE the taste and do not want to change is.

Can someone suggest a liquid yeast that will get me where I want to go.. the 04 definitely delivers the flavors I like. I'd like to see the beer closer to 5% abv. But really want to keep this same taste.

 

[stpug]

Good Wyeast choices: 1968 (mashed low), 1318 (mashed high), 1469 (mashed low), 1187 (mashed mid)
Good White Lab choices: WLP002 (mashed low), WLP005 (mashed mid-high), WLP017 (mashed mid), WLP022 (mashed high)

Lots of good choices out there. 1968 is a classic choice but can leave it a little sweeter than expected (like S04) if you don't mash correctly and/or rouse the yeast; same goes for 1469. 1187 is a loveit/hateit strain; I love it. Some of the white labs are equivalents to wyeasts (wlp002 = 1968), but may have subtly different fermentation characteristics.

If I had to suggest one strain I would suggest 1968 or WLP002; just make sure to mash much lower and maybe even swirl up your fermenter after 2-3 days of fermenting using a sanitized spoon/cane. If you swirl it up then make sure there's still some fermentation left so that the gas CO2 production can clear the headspace of your fermenting vessel of oxygen.

 

[frankjones]

Good Wyeast choices: 1968 (mashed low), 1318 (mashed high), 1469 (mashed low), 1187 (mashed mid)
Good White Lab choices: WLP002 (mashed low), WLP005 (mashed mid-high), WLP017 (mashed mid), WLP022 (mashed high)

Lots of good choices out there. 1968 is a classic choice but can leave it a little sweeter than expected (like S04) if you don't mash correctly and/or rouse the yeast; same goes for 1469. 1187 is a loveit/hateit strain; I love it. Some of the white labs are equivalents to wyeasts (wlp002 = 1968), but may have subtly different fermentation characteristics.

If I had to suggest one strain I would suggest 1968 or WLP002; just make sure to mash much lower and maybe even swirl up your fermenter after 2-3 days of fermenting using a sanitized spoon/cane. If you swirl it up then make sure there's still some fermentation left so that the gas CO2 production can clear the headspace of your fermenting vessel of oxygen.

What temp would you say to mash with the 1968

Also the WLP 02