MH1210F Temperature Controller for Dummies

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ere109

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There's a lot of technical data available online that tries to supplement the horrible instruction sheet that ships with the MH1210F, so I thought I'd combine all of my accumulated knowledge, plus pictures of my build, to create an easy-to-understand how-to.

MAKE SURE ALL APPLIANCES AND PLUGS ARE DISCONNECTED BEFORE PROCEEDING.

First the good: this unit displays temperature in Fahrenheit. That's about it, but it's big.
As for downsides: the owner's manual is atrocious; and this is a SINGLE-STAGE controller (which means it only has the ability to control one external circuit function - aka you can do hot OR cold with this unit, but can't do both without reprogramming).
Now the wiring. To better understand this confusion of numbers and lines, focus on the power supply first. In order for the unit to operate, it needs power (from the receptacle at the wall). Numbers 3 & 4 are the wires that power the MH1210F. The incoming black goes into #3 (read ahead before connecting), and the incoming white goes into #4.
Numbers 1 & 2 operate the relay (switched appliance). This box has simple internal components. It operates the on/off switch at Numbers 1 & 2. The incoming black wire also has to be connected to Number 1, to supply constant power that can be directed to the switched appliance. Number 2 is the switched output line that powers the appliance (aka black wire, aka brass screws on a receptacle).
The easiest way to make all of this work, is to create a three-way pigtail connection for the incoming black (power) wire. The wires from that pigtail plug into Numbers 1 & 3. Your temp controller also needs a white (return) connection. A standard receptacle has two silver screws - the white wire plugs to this. You could create a second pigtail inside your enclosure, or you could simply run your incoming white wire to one of the silver receptacle screws, and run another white wire from the second screw to Number 4. After that, run a wire from Number 2 to a brass screw on the switched appliance receptacle. Don't forget to plug your green (negative) input plug to the green plug on your switched receptacle.
Now all that remains is to plug the NTC temp probe in. The probe wires plug into Numbers 5 & 6. Orientation doesn't matter.

This graphic from user day_trippr basically illustrates everything that I have explained above.
attachment.php


This is the electrical box I chose for my project - a deep two gang plastic box available at Home Depot. I decided to get fancy with a gray decor.
0408151437c.jpg


The top of the MH1210F.
0408151500.jpg


My unit fully connected and running.
0408151908.jpg


I'll be happy to post additional information, or to receive updates from others. The original STC-1000 is an excellent unit, but displays temperature in Celcius. Two stage upgrades to that include the STC-1000F and the Inkbird.
 
There's a lot of technical data available online that tries to supplement the horrible instruction sheet that ships with the MH1210F, so I thought I'd combine all of my accumulated knowledge, plus pictures of my build, to create an easy-to-understand how-to.

MAKE SURE ALL APPLIANCES AND PLUGS ARE DISCONNECTED BEFORE PROCEEDING.

First the good: this unit displays temperature in Fahrenheit. That's about it, but it's big.
As for downsides: the owner's manual is atrocious; and this is a SINGLE-STAGE controller (which means it only has the ability to control one external circuit function - aka you can do hot OR cold with this unit, but can't do both without reprogramming).
Now the wiring. To better understand this confusion of numbers and lines, focus on the power supply first. In order for the unit to operate, it needs power (from the receptacle at the wall). Numbers 3 & 4 are the wires that power the MH1210F. The incoming black goes into #3 (read ahead before connecting), and the incoming white goes into #4.
Numbers 1 & 2 operate the relay (switched appliance). This box has simple internal components. It operates the on/off switch at Numbers 1 & 2. The incoming black wire also has to be connected to Number 1, to supply constant power that can be directed to the switched appliance. Number 2 is the switched output line that powers the appliance (aka black wire, aka brass screws on a receptacle).
The easiest way to make all of this work, is to create a three-way pigtail connection for the incoming black (power) wire. The wires from that pigtail plug into Numbers 1 & 3. Your temp controller also needs a white (return) connection. A standard receptacle has two silver screws - the white wire plugs to this. You could create a second pigtail inside your enclosure, or you could simply run your incoming white wire to one of the silver receptacle screws, and run another white wire from the second screw to Number 4. After that, run a wire from Number 2 to a brass screw on the switched appliance receptacle. Don't forget to plug your green (negative) input plug to the green plug on your switched receptacle.
Now all that remains is to plug the NTC temp probe in. The probe wires plug into Numbers 5 & 6. Orientation doesn't matter.

This graphic from user day_trippr basically illustrates everything that I have explained above.
attachment.php


This is the electrical box I chose for my project - a deep two gang plastic box available at Home Depot. I decided to get fancy with a gray decor.
0408151437c.jpg


The top of the MH1210F.
0408151500.jpg


My unit fully connected and running.
0408151908.jpg


I'll be happy to post additional information, or to receive updates from others. The original STC-1000 is an excellent unit, but displays temperature in Celcius. Two stage upgrades to that include the STC-1000F and the Inkbird.
I noticed you are using an electrical box for a project box. You seem to have a "NEW WORK" box. a "OLD WORK" box is a better fit.
 

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