Merging tubing for a DIY immersion chiller

[30Bones]

Wanting to build an immersion chiller, but I want it to be 2-3 runs of 25' or so 3/8" copper tubing like the King Cobra.

What is the best way to solder these connections to get it to 1/2" inlet/outlet where I can add either garden hose adapters or 1/2" MFL's for camlocks? I am guessing it's just a 3/4"x1/2" reducer, you cram the 3/8" pieces into the 3/4" end and solder away. Is it that easy?

 

[grathan]

Not sure. That looks like what the Hydra does? Sounds like it would be expensive tube fittings if not.

 

[30Bones]

I doubt anything they use is custom. I would imagine it's all off the shelf plumbing items. Those reducers are only $1-1.50/ea and 50' of tubing is $45 from the big box stores. Just trying to figure this out so I can determine if I feel confident DIY'ing this. I don't need it until spring as I usually don't brew in the cold months.

 

[grathan]

you could drill out a 1/2" collar with 3- 3/8 holes and stuff that in the larger pipe, or even use a cap and drill holes in that. Then just solder that. I bet the big gob of solder would be stronger though. Especially if it takes the stress of becoming a lifting handle for the chiller. It looks like the hydra has 2 separate fittings, the first is just a collar which probably allows soldering from both sides, then that gets soldered to the reducer.

You don't have to make the whole gob at once. Just make sure all the copper is very clean and some flux. Get a pretty good size gob in there, let it cool and then come back and fill the rest of the pipe. A good thick sized solder would be better, make sure the heat is focused on the copper and not the solder. Make sure something stops the solder from running out the bottom while you do the top. Perhaps half submerged in water or maybe even that drilled collar thingee in the middle.

I think a tig welded stainless version would be pretty strong too.

 

[30Bones]

Unsure what you mean by a collar. I have an idea, and that's more or less a slug with 3 - 3/8" holes drilled, but I am unsure if that's what you are calling a collar or where I would find such an item at the big box stores

quick sketch in CAD and I can't get 3 - 3/8" pieces inside a 3/4" (green) and 1" (red) is much larger. Now I an not certain how refrigeration tubing is measured ID and OD, etc. I should probably spend more time at Home Depot

 

[grathan]

Collar I just mean piece of pipe or more likely a coupling.

Tubing is usually OD. The term "nominal" refers to the ID of piping. But you mainly just need some slip fittings(nominal measurement to fit over tube OD).

So you need a 1" x 1/2 reducing bushing to fit 3 3/8 lines.
http://www.plumbingsupplydirect.com/product-p/crc7.htm

But you can see how that would be difficult to solder on the reduced side. So a coupling would be better and then add a reducing bushing after that. But if you buy "nominal" coupling, then "nominal" bushing won't slip on top. So you can either buy 1" OD pipe instead of a coupling, or get a fxc type reducing coupling (c = "nominal" and f = "female" meaning you can slip on here). I am not too sure here so using pipe is a good option (you can get small sections of pipe at HomeDepot).


SO:
small piece of 1" pipe ->
reducing bushing 1" x 1/2" (link above) ->
small piece of 0.5" pipe->
adapter to "nominal" to female thread
http://www.plumbingsupplydirect.com/product-p/cfa3.htm

 

[Bobby_M]

Unfortunately solder doesn't fill gaps like putty. Just feed it with a piece of 1/2" rigid copper tubing with an end cap in place and then drill three 3/8" holes in the side of the tubing to create a manifold. The tighter the fit, the better.

 

[30Bones]

Thanks guys. I think I'm following you. I need to spend some time in the plumbing section this weekend.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[Stealthcruiser]

30 Bones................Inside the 3/4 (green), they would fit, if you were to flatten it slightly into a " Y " shape, and then fill the gaps with solid copper wire, of a "tight fit" gauge,and solder to that.

I have seen it on this here forum!!!!!!

Now the thread, I can't remember, as I didn't sub to it.

 

[grathan]

Another option is sweated 3/8 tees. That would be cheap too.

 

[30Bones]

30 Bones................Inside the 3/4 (green), they would fit, if you were to flatten it slightly into a " Y " shape, and then fill the gaps with solid copper wire, of a "tight fit" gauge,and solder to that.

I have seen it on this here forum!!!!!!

Now the thread, I can't remember, as I didn't sub to it.

Yeah I tried searching and found nothing. It's tough to search for stuff like this. I may get more into this after the holidays. Thanks

Another option is sweated 3/8 tees. That would be cheap too.

Not following you. Sweat on 3/8" T's then what? Still need to merge them into a single outlet. That's where I am trying to find more information

 

[grathan]

A "tee" would merge/expand 2 lines. You would basically reduce water supply down to 3/8" then split off that with tees for how many coils you want. Then combine coils back to single line with tees and expand back to 0.5" for outlet.

 

[Bobby_M]

I'm still not following why drilling two 3/8" holes in the side of a 1/2" capped line wouldn't be the easiest way to go. I'd assume you want those coils coming out perpendicular to the drop/source lines anyway. You could do it with two reducing branch tees, two reducers, and two elbows, but that gets expensive.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Not to hijack but whats the best way to connect 2 1/2" lines that will be submerged in the wort. Compression fitting?

 

[grathan]

Not to hijack but whats the best way to connect 2 1/2" lines that will be submerged in the wort. Compression fitting?

If you own a propane torch a 0.5" coupling and lead-free plumbing solder would work. The compression fitting would work great as well.

 

[grathan]

I'm still not following why drilling two 3/8" holes in the side of a 1/2" capped line wouldn't be the easiest way to go. I'd assume you want those coils coming out perpendicular to the drop/source lines anyway. You could do it with two reducing branch tees, two reducers, and two elbows, but that gets expensive.

Does the solder provide the leak-free weld? It seems like it would move around a lot and stressed while being lifted.

 

[Bobby_M]

I've done it and it doesn't crack. You do want to make sure the holes are just big enough for the tubing so it's a tight fit.

 

[30Bones]

I'll look into your idea Bobby it's simple and starlight forward. I won't get into this until after the new year.

 

[brewprint]

What ever came of this? Has anyone come up with how to merge these lines together? I also want to make something like the Cobra but $175 is just ludicrous.

 

[grathan]

Why would the copper have to merge? Why not create the manifold/tees out of plastic and nylon outside of the brew pot?

 

[30Bones]

What ever came of this? Has anyone come up with how to merge these lines together? I also want to make something like the Cobra but $175 is just ludicrous.

I bought one of their smaller chillers (hornet). It does well for my batch size, anything above 5-6 gallons and it would not be up to the task. I don't see myself going larger than this on batch size and if I ever do this will remain for extract and my portable brew setup.