Thank you for the reply. What can I do to correct the absence of a low resistance connection?Watts turned into heat because of resistance inside that connector. Either the wires aren't tight or the prongs aren't making a low resistance connection...
The receptacle is rated for 30A, and the highest power element I've seen with the integral L6-30 plug is rated at 5500W @ 240V. Thus the max current that cant be drawn is ~23A. Any resistance in the supply wiring will reduce the current draw. So, the plug is adequately rated.I was looking at the wiring which appeared to be melted.
Hard to tell from the picts. And you are correct on wattage, and the breakers functionality.
Appreciate everyone’s responses. As for the matter of gfci, below is a picture of the two 20 amp breakers dedicated to the outlet. How can I tell if they are gfci? View attachment 716790
The neutral wire from the circuit will run to the breaker first then a pigtail to the neutral bar. I think I have some without lights(?) but a tester button I think is standard. Exercise appropriate caution if you are taking the panel off your load center.I don't know if all gfci's have an indicator light and reset button but mine do, which makes me believe those are straight breakers...
Cheers!
Those look like single pole, non-GFCI breakers for 120V circuits. Are you running on two, opposite phase 120V circuits? If you are running on a 240V circuit, then those are not the breakers you are looking for.Appreciate everyone’s responses. As for the matter of gfci, below is a picture of the two 20 amp breakers dedicated to the outlet. How can I tell if they are gfci? View attachment 716790
I haven’t been twisting. Perhaps that is the problem.How about: it is a twist lock connector. Are you plugging in AND twisting, locking it into place when you use it?
Or do you just push plug it into the socket as if you are plugging in a toaster?
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