measuring OG of Starter
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flars
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I would use one of the calculators rather than risking infecting the starter if you have a good measurement of the fermentables used. Being a couple of points off from the true OG, if the weight of the fermentables is rough won't make much of a difference.
A ratio of 10x the volume of water to the weight of DME will result in a gravity of ~1.040
1000 mL to 100g DME
1000 mL to 100g DME
Better yet, add water to DME up to desired volume at 100g/L. 100 grams DME into a total volume (including the extract and the water) of 1L should be ~1.0365, perfect for a starter.
Point is, the sugar content of DME is pretty well established (with some minor variance between manufacturers but not hugely significant). As long as the right weight goes into the right dilution, there's no point bothering to measure the gravity.
HB_in_Subic
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I just did my first starter last night following these directions https://www.denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Start/ I am using Wyeast 1388 for the first time.
eddiewould
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Sometimes I measure mine with a refractometer before boiling, but usually not.
Yes. Or draw some out with a sanitized sampler into your test vial.
Whoops. What I get for looking at unread via the app. Didn't notice it was the mead section. However I would assume that while the dilution ratio will change using a different fermentable source, principle remains the same.
However if your goal is more yeast i see no reason not to use a nutrient rich medium (wort) than a nutrient deficient one (honey must) anyway as long as you're decanting off the spent starter. Or using one of those other things (goferm? don't recall, never used it) it should have instructions anyway.
+1 didn't see that it was the mead forum either, sorry guys! But I agree that a malt sugar starter shouldn't make a difference for mead, since you pour off the starter fluid and are left with mostly just yeast slurry. I really have no idea how sensitive yeast is to the transition between malt and honey though.
Yeasts don't like changing sugars like that. If you're gonna ferment honey, your starter should be honey (and nutrients).
You cold crash it by placing it in the fridge for 48 hours or so, the yeast goes dormant and flocculates, then you just gently pour the partially fermented starter wort off and leave the yeast behind.
Just did one, I have found that most of the honeys I have used fall in the 1 cup to 2 L range to hit the 1.040 OG. That being said It is very important to degas, Stir plates knock out the CO2 constantly but swirling every time you walk by also works. And to add lots of nutrients, I have been adding about a tsp of Firmaid everyday till there is no more off gassing, if not using a stir plate hydrate the nutrient in sterile water or you'll have a geyser from the nucleation points. Using Honey instead of Malt will get the yeast more ready to ferment the must but due to the lack of nutrients the starter takes longer to hit the FG, I see 4 to 7 days to complete the starter.
I would also suggest that if you aren't going to store the yeast for a few days give it some time to gently flock out of the solution and pitch after decanting. when you cold crash it rushes the yeast to both build their glycogen reserves and to fortify their cell wall. in a beer the other flavors help to mask this but in meed their tends to be less to hide behind and this can show through depending on the rest of your process. But if you are facing time constants cold crashing is the way to go.
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At what FG do you pitch the starter?
I mean pitch the starter into the must.
My bad, I don't ever check that, I would guesstimate around 1.010-20 by taste of the starter but I could be off. I should have one done in the next few days I will measure and post.
Turns out it was dry. 1.000 but I still think it tastes sweet.
Turns out it was 1.000. It still feels bigger maybe the dissolved co2.
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