Mash tun?

[jcs401]

Have seen many YouTube videos on building your own cooler mash tun. I am wondering if it is worth it, do you save any money as I feel like after the Coleman cooler and stainless parts etc. you may only save a few bucks. Any advice?

 

[Moose1231]

You can build your own for less than 100$. If you buy one it can be a couple of hundreds. Although I just saw a pretty good deal on ebay :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEN-GALLON-...ERMOMETER-AND-VALVE-HOMEBREWING-/121167498361

And I use copper parts personally which is perfectly fine

 

[brewmax25]

It's fun to build your own and then you will have a special connection with your Tun. places like williamsbrewing sell great parts for a reasonable price to convert coolers to mashtuns. I picked my 10 gal round Rubbermaid at my local hardware store for 45 bucks (on sale)

 

[jcs401]

Anyone know if there is a kit I can buy for the valve, piping, washers etc. to turn a cooler into a mash tun???

 

[NTXBrauer]

Here is everything you need to know on how to go about building your own.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/

 

[MannyZ]

You can probably get everything from BargainFittings if you're going with a braid instead of a false bottom.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=47

 

[jcs401]

What if I was going to use same cooler but a 5g? Would the part list/sizes change?

 

[NTXBrauer]

What if I was going to use same cooler but a 5g? Would the part list/sizes change?

If you ever plan on brewing larger batches of beer, I would recommend going with the 10 gallon. If you are set on the 5 gallon, then I would remove the spigot at the store and measure the size of the hole to ensure the same fittings would work. You might also need a couple extra washers, but the parts should be the same.

 

[eltorrente]

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/all-grain-brewing/all-grain-equipment/cooler-conversion-kits.html

 

[jcs401]

Does anyone know where I can find the parts needed to make my own mask ton the hardware such as the kettle screen I want to make sure I'm buying the correct stainless steel parts

 

[jcs401]

What is the difference/benefit of using stainless steel valve/parts over using brass? Anyone know?

 

[plankbr]

I built my own 10 gallon mash tun using this guide and almost everything I got was from Home Depot. I believe my total bill was ~$85. I am seriously impressed with how the ss braided hose has never clogged once!

 

[hokieguy95]

I just made one. Cost me about $80. Used a Lowes' 10 gallon water cooler.

The people at Lowe's and Home Depot were worthless with regards to helping me with this except for my purchase of a refrigerator Ice maker water line, brass barbs and some of the other accessories. They did not have any gaskets and washers for plumbing material that I needed. I went to 3 different Lowes.

If you are planning to do this yourself, go to a Ferguson's plumbing supplies or anyone that knows about that stuff. The guy working had me hooked up with a coupling, gaskets and ball valve setup in 20 minutes. Even helped me put it together and understood my concept of having it water tight (Which the Lowe's guys couldn't seem to understand).

Here's a decent video that I used as a guideline that show's a pretty good setup.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taslixd52S4&list=PLU_sEt88C40mPIsk9tZB7aUS1flsvh4Ag

What is the difference/benefit of using stainless steel valve/parts over using brass? Anyone know?

I don't think it will matter too much. Using S/S is because you want everyting food grade. I have heard (but not confirmed) that some brass can be harmful over long periods because it contains some lead. So I would just keep everything inside the Tun S/S. Check out this thread for more info.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/looking-food-safe-materials-mash-ton-316837/

 

[Bithead]

I used this 48 Qt Rubbermaid cooler. No valve but a flat spot where the valve goes so easy to drill. I used Bobby_M's No Leak Bulkhead design , a cpvc manifold and a brass ball valve that I pickled. Total cost under $50.

 

[plankbr]

All the Watts parts have changed model names, meaning the A298 is now the LFA298. LF just now means Lead Free. So you can take anyone's list and put an LF in front of any Watts part number and find what you need at Home Depot or Lowes, etc...