Mash temp

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Cata_rebel

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Is it better to mash at different temperatures or just waist of time ?????? I'm thinking is it better and whats the difference % ??
I'm using EZ boil 240V BIAB whit constant recirculation
 
I get better efficiency doing a 2step beta-alpha rest, one at 150- another at 162.....i just had to buy another bag of pale malt because i'm running behind, last bag it made the difference between 83% eff. and 95%, but my hydrometer might have been off...i'll let you know how this bag goes, if the same, with a working hydrometer! proves it to me!

i'll know saturday when i brew again with store bought malt...
 
If you can heat your mash, by all means do a two or three step mash whenever feasible, depending on the style and grist. You'll get better efficiency and have more finite control over fermentability and flavor profile. You might try brewing the same grist three different ways, varying the time and number of steps to see which you like best. I generally get 70-75% efficiency with a single infusion and 75-83% with a two or three step mash. Regarding efficiency, I'm more concerned with hitting the predicted value and flavor/ferm profile than the number itself.
 
well i brewed yesterday, got 10 gal of 1.064 wort...beersmith tells me that's 88% effc. I just draw wort from the mash tun, and bring it to a boil and add back, to raise the temp...went from 150f ~30min, to 160f ~45 min, fly sparged...

So not 83% to 95%, but still an improvment...remember boys and girls, double check your hydrometers in water every once in a while!
 
I can mash as many steps I want at different temperature
I was thinking to do first at 162 60 min and 168 for 10-15
I just switched to electric that's why I ask and I'm Biab
Before i was doing single infusion at 162-163 for 60min
 
Beersmith doesn't tell you mash conversion efficiency, only a total efficiency, which includes things losses. I have asked Brad Smith to change the one field on the mash side to be current mash efficiency (1st runnings if you will) instead of having the efficiency calculated twice to include top-up water. Seems redundant to me, but he wasn't interested in the least. So whatever then.

I made a Google Sheet with these calculations, if you're interested: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Efficiency

Most people mash for 60 minutes then move on, if they don't get the gravity they want, they lower the whole brewhouse efficiency % and add more grain. Sure you can do that. I don't, I just mash longer until I get to at least 90% of theoretical maximum conversion. Keeps my beers' viscosity low, which I prefer. In my Grainfather, at 60 minutes, I'm usually looking at around 70% extract conversion, with recirculation. If I give it another 30+ minutes, it's usually between 80-90%. Never waited long enough to see how close to 100% it would get.
 
I can mash as many steps I want at different temperature
I was thinking to do first at 162 60 min and 168 for 10-15
I just switched to electric that's why I ask and I'm Biab
Before i was doing single infusion at 162-163 for 60min

I wouldn't think that would be good, you'll end up with a way high FG that way. you want something more like 150f, and if it's not a big deal to ramp the temp up to 162f go for it! i've had good luck, and it is a big deal for me to do it. but worth it for the effec gained...or a pound of sugar at 50 cents...so like a nickel and half off the price of a twelve pack! every nickel counts!
 
Beersmith doesn't tell you mash conversion efficiency, only a total efficiency, which includes things losses. I have asked Brad Smith to change the one field on the mash side to be current mash efficiency (1st runnings if you will) instead of having the efficiency calculated twice to include top-up water. Seems redundant to me, but he wasn't interested in the least. So whatever then.

I made a Google Sheet with these calculations, if you're interested: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Efficiency

Most people mash for 60 minutes then move on, if they don't get the gravity they want, they lower the whole brewhouse efficiency % and add more grain. Sure you can do that. I don't, I just mash longer until I get to at least 90% of theoretical maximum conversion. Keeps my beers' viscosity low, which I prefer. In my Grainfather, at 60 minutes, I'm usually looking at around 70% extract conversion, with recirculation. If I give it another 30+ minutes, it's usually between 80-90%. Never waited long enough to see how close to 100% it would get.

i was wondering if maybe the higher temp gels higher geling temp starches or something.....
 
In the old days the malting process was different and step mashing resulted in much higher efficiencies. not so much anymore it can effect flavor and still net you a bit of efficiency (especially if you temp control system is already lacking).

As far as bringing some of the mash to a boil and reintroducing it to step up the mash, that has drawbacks. if your talking the actual grain its decoction and most will tell you to not transfer and boil much liquid and make the decoction portion very thick with mostly grain. If your talking just wort keep in mind once you bring that wort to around 168 or higher to denature the enymes and at that point that wort will no longer give you any additional effc gains as you stopped conversion of that wort. Some rims do this and thats why some rims users get low efficiency than others.

I dont step mash regularly on either my home brewing or brewbub system. I use rims at 1.8gpm. I average 91% at home and 5gpm flow and 85% at the brewpub buy just doing single infusion mashes.

All that said,

We goofed up on our first batch of beer at the brewpub and got a super slow (2gpm vs the normal 5gpm we get there) flow for the rims and ended up mashing in at like 139.. it was almost and hour before we got to our goal of 151 and that beer ended up netting much higher efficiency and finishing too dry at 1.002 its pretty good now but still dry and like 6.3% which is much higher than when we made it on my pilot system.
 
In the old days the malting process was different and step mashing resulted in much higher efficiencies. not so much anymore it can effect flavor and still net you a bit of efficiency (especially if you temp control system is already lacking).

As far as bringing some of the mash to a boil and reintroducing it to step up the mash, that has drawbacks. if your talking the actual grain its decoction and most will tell you to not transfer and boil much liquid and make the decoction portion very thick with mostly grain. If your talking just wort keep in mind once you bring that wort to around 168 or higher to denature the enymes and at that point that wort will no longer give you any additional effc gains as you stopped conversion of that wort. Some rims do this and thats why some rims users get low efficiency than others.

I dont step mash regularly on either my home brewing or brewbub system. I use rims at 1.8gpm. I average 91% at home and 5gpm flow and 85% at the brewpub buy just doing single infusion mashes.

All that said,

We goofed up on our first batch of beer at the brewpub and got a super slow (2gpm vs the normal 5gpm we get there) flow for the rims and ended up mashing in at like 139.. it was almost and hour before we got to our goal of 151 and that beer ended up netting much higher efficiency and finishing too dry at 1.002 its pretty good now but still dry and like 6.3% which is much higher than when we made it on my pilot system.

when i do my step, i just draw off a gallon of wort from the tun at a time...takes about 3 gals to raise the temp, and the mash starts with 7 gals...seems to work for me so far? i'd be too worried about boiling the grain, because of tannins....

And your 'messed up' beer sounds like something i'd absolutely love! :mug:
 
step mashing is great. just be aware its not a static set of steps.... different grains may require varying temps by a few degrees, and even then that can vary year to year.
 
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