Making a grain mill. Question about rollers.

[lakedawgs]

A machinist at my work is making a grain mill for me from a plan I found online.
Right now only one of the two rollers will turn via a drill.
The rollers will ride on sleeve bearings.

How important is it that the 2nd wheel be powered?
I have literally $0 in this thing so far and hate to spend $30+ on a pair of spur gears. My brew budget is pretty thin right now with other stuff we have bought for the home brewery lately.
OR are there any fairly cheap options to accomplish this if needed?

THANKS
Lakedawgs

 

[de3isit]

The second roller is turned by the grain being forced through by the powered roller. If it is a stationary roller you risk shredding the grain and seizing the powered roller.

 

[lakedawgs]

I understand that, and figured the grain would be enough to turn the roller, just wanted to see if there was a better option to power the second roller, or a reason I missed that would make it bad not to power the second roller.
Thanks

 

[IslandLizard]

A machinist at my work is making a grain mill for me from a plan I found online.
Right now only one of the two rollers will turn via a drill.
The rollers will ride on sleeve bearings.

How important is it that the 2nd wheel be powered?
I have literally $0 in this thing so far and hate to spend $30+ on a pair of spur gears. My brew budget is pretty thin right now with other stuff we have bought for the home brewery lately.
OR are there any fairly cheap options to accomplish this if needed?

THANKS
Lakedawgs

This^

Very cool to have a good one made.
I can't find it so quickly, but there is a thread here on HBT where someone built one. Looked amazing!

2nd roller is not powered, it's free rolling. No need for spur gears. The grain moves the 2nd roller.

Sleeve bearings for both rollers, and the ones for the second roller should be adjustable, usually on 2 lockable eccenters.

There is a good fairly deep knurl on both rollers and the tops of the knurls should be pointed (sharp), not knocked off or flat.

The base board should be made from good sturdy 3/4" (multi layer) plywood. The HDF that ships with many mills warps on the narrow edges. You need to make a hopper too. Either wood or sheet metal, or some other way. There are some pretty innovative designs out there, like an inverted water bottle.

If possible get the drive axle to be 1/2" I know you need a 1/2" heavy duty drill for it, but it is worth it. My Monster Mill has a 3/8" spindle and that's sort of a weak point. I may get their 1/2" drive axle at some point.

Harbor Freight has that slow speed 1/2" adjustable speed power house drill for $50 usually, and they now have a ton of coupons. You can get a really good deal there.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Gonna' have the rollers heat treated after knurling?

They'll last longer if ya' do.

 

[emyers]

my monster mill only has one driven roller.

 

[jigtwins]

I've got a thread on here about the one I built. There is no real reason to power both rollers. Like was said the grain being pulled thru will turn it. As for heat treating the rollers imo its overkill as long as you are using steel , not aluminum. The knurl does need to be pronounced. Not really sharp, but have enough rise to grip the grains. 1/2" shaft with 3 flats for the drill chuck to grip so it won't slip is a good idea.

 

[lakedawgs]

Good info, thanks.
The rollers are hard steel from my company scrap pile. The knurl is nice and pronounced.
Don't mean to cheap out but between the pump, cam locks, water filter, temp controller and ferm chamber materials I have bought in the last two weeks, I don't want to push it with SWMBO. As SWMBO is also a brewer, small 3 gallon stove top batches, I am riding a wave but also know my limits.

I have posted a pic of the plan I am loosely going by if anyone wants it.
thanks again for the good info.
Lakedawgs