looks like i might have to go all electric, help!!

[liquid134]

well since i moved into an apartment, i cant really run the propane burner ive used in the past. i recently did a boil test the other day on my stove. used a 4gallon SS pot, and filled it with 3 gallons.....well over an hour later, and i barely had what i would call a "light" boil.

so now, im thinking of doing an electric setup. i have a keggle that i used for propane, and i want to cheaply, yet effectivly get water boiling with just an element.

my only concern, is im not too entirely sure how my apartment is wired. i do NOT have access to the breaker box so, i cant say for sure what the amp ratings are? anyone have an idea?


i really want to get some batches going soon, as i miss it already!!

 

[grathan]

The oven or clothes dryer outlets will have the most amperage capabilities. Another idea would be to make a heat stick to supplement the stove top burner.

 

[Hello]

If you aren't sure the best you could probably do are 120v sticks. You'll likely be doing partial boils and topping off.

 

[BadWolfBrewing]

Do you have an electric stove? If not, supplement the boil with a heat stick. Bobbym has a heat stick kit coming out soon, probably the easiest way to go


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[ManiacalJ]

A heatstick would seem to be the simple solution. Any residential circuit should be rated for at least 15A, and quite often kitchen outlets will be dedicated circuits. That said, the other options mentioned of using the stove or dryer outlets are not unreasonable, particularly if you want a self-contained system that you can take outside to a balcony or similar. The downside of course is that it is likely a pain pulling out appliances in order to plug it in. The 3rd option would be using multiple 1500W 110V elements, which could each be run off of a separate circuit in your apartment. I've seen at least one of PJ's diagrams for this configuration. Again, this would allow you take it outside to a balcony or similar, and has the added benefit of being usable anywhere you have the ability to plug in a couple of extension cords.

 

[mb82]

The 3rd option would be using multiple 1500W 110V elements, which could each be run off of a separate circuit in your apartment. I've seen at least one of PJ's diagrams for this configuration. Again, this would allow you take it outside to a balcony or similar, and has the added benefit of being usable anywhere you have the ability to plug in a couple of extension cords.

This is what I was forced to do. I'm in a similar situation. So after building my electric system I am now wondering why it took so long to build it. I love the setup.

 

[djt17]

I use a heat stick to assist my kitchen stove, works great. Outlets in the kitchen should be GFCI.

 

[Rivenin]

and if its' in recent years, all GFCI outlets in the kitchen will be 20 amp.

hopefully this helps you as well!

1500w will max out a 15amp outlet
2000w will max out a 20amp outlet

 

[liquid134]

well my apartment (good ol chicago) is old and out dated. no gfci outlets in the kitchen. we dont have washer/dryer in the apartment, and our stove is electric. i havent checked the amp rating on our refridgerator but weve moved that to a different spot and outlet since we moved, so maybe i can judge with that?

anyway, where is a good place to get an element? ive been looking on ebay :-/

also, i noticed one said it was the screw style, is there a difference? or one i should be looking for?

 

[iijakii]

You could always swap out the receptacles in the kitchen. Or buy adapters at HD for like $8ea. Or use your stove. Look at your breaker and determine what you're working with.

 

[BadWolfBrewing]

Can't brew electric without gfci. Cardinal rule.

 

[Brumateur]

GFCI is not mandatory if you have a proper grounding.

 

[P-J]

GFCI is not mandatory if you have a proper grounding.

You are playing "You Bet Your Life"

Not my game in any way shape or form. You are dealing with high current and voltage is a wet location.

GFCI can and will be a life saver.

P-J

 

[grathan]

You are playing "You Bet Your Life"

Not my game in any way shape or form. You are dealing with high current and voltage is a wet location.

GFCI can and will be a life saver.

P-J

P-J, can you please expand on this? I am planning on converting my new HLT to 5500w and hand't planned on using a GFCI. Are you saying that the kettle could be live (shorted) without throwing the breaker?

 

[P-J]

P-J, can you please expand on this? I am planning on converting my new HLT to 5500w and hand't planned on using a GFCI. Are you saying that the kettle could be live (shorted) without throwing the breaker?

You might want to research the current code on the matter. The GFCI is used to protect you. Take a look at this linked article: http://ecmweb.com/code-basics/nec-requirements-ground-fault-circuit-interrupters-gfci

Your choice. I would not set up a brew rig without it. This is the reason that I recommend the use of a Spa Panel in any brewery build.

P-J

 

[satph]

. i do NOT have access to the breaker box

So what happens if you pop a breaker? You have to wait for the landlord to send someone over to get your power back on?

Last time I lived in an old apartment, if the fridge cycled on when we were using the toaster, I was headed to the basement to reset the breaker.

. our stove is electric

Don't most electric ranges usually 240v 40amp? If had reasonable access to that outlet, why not get an in-line GFCI cord?

 

[liquid134]

sorry i meant our stove ISNT electric its gas. as far as popping a breaker...hasnt happened yet. but as far as i know, i dont have access to the electrical room. i just dont get there concept of it. im used to living in a house and having access to the breaker box, but ive looked everywhere, cant find one in the actual apartment.

i am planning on either switching out the outlet or using a gfci power cord thing, so thats not my concern.

im looking where to get a good element from other then ebay. im thinking im going to try a 1500w one first. im hoping thats all i would need to bring it up to a rolling boil, without popping a possible 15amp breaker.

 

[iijakii]

Home depot, amazon, etc.

I also think it's strange you don't have access to panel, I've never seen an apartment like that. Probably hiding behind a closet door or something.

 

[dyqik]

A 1000W or 1500W heatstick should be plenty to supplement a gas stove and get a full batch boil going - a simple 1000W bucket heater is the easiest way get something safe in place. Inline 15A GFCI adaptors are pretty easy to find with the electric garden power tools in HomeDepot or similar, which you should use with something like that in case the cord wanders under the kettle while the burner is on (happened to me on my last kitchen brew of the winter), or similar.

 

[BigFloyd]

P-J, can you please expand on this? I am planning on converting my new HLT to 5500w and hand't planned on using a GFCI. Are you saying that the kettle could be live (shorted) without throwing the breaker?

The breaker is designed to trip to protect the circuit (mostly to prevent fire). You will be shocked, possibly killed, before the load required to actually trigger it is met.

A GFCI is designed to be fast enough to prevent/reduce shock to your body. That's why there's a GFCI spa panel on my garage wall for my brew rig (with PJ-designed panel - thanks PJ!) not just a 240V receptacle. Considering that I have this lovely mix of stainless steel, water and 240V electricity on my hands, there's no way I'd take the chance and skip the GFCI.

 

[mikescooling]

P-J, can you please expand on this? I am planning on converting my new HLT to 5500w and hand't planned on using a GFCI. Are you saying that the kettle could be live (shorted) without throwing the breaker?

Yes the pot can become "HOT" and wait for someone to touch it and get shocked. That is why you ground everything, so it will throw the breaker if their is a short.

 

[BadWolfBrewing]

If everything is working perfectly, then no you don't need a GFCI.

Sort of like seat belts. As long as you don't get into an accident, then they are useless.

Things go wrong though. A tripped GFCI let me know that after years of no problems my heating element port randomly started leaking. It wasn't drawing enough current to trip a breaker, and even if it was the breaker's don't trip that quickly unless the current is WAY over rated current. The GFCI trips when as little as 5 mA takes the wrong path home.

For the little work and expense, I don't see a good reason to not use one. It is not likely that it will 'save my life' one day. However, it is possible that it will. That is the point of GFCIs. Like seat belts.

 

[grathan]

The breaker is designed to trip to protect the circuit (mostly to prevent fire). You will be shocked, possibly killed, before the load required to actually trigger it is met.

A GFCI is designed to be fast enough to prevent/reduce shock to your body. That's why there's a GFCI spa panel on my garage wall for my brew rig (with PJ-designed panel - thanks PJ!) not just a 240V receptacle. Considering that I have this lovely mix of stainless steel, water and 240V electricity on my hands, there's no way I'd take the chance and skip the GFCI.

Spas are wired to use a neutral wire, while 220v heating elements are not. Can you please explain how you wire a neutral to your boiling kettle for a gfci circuit?


*edit - Nevermind, it looks like it can monitor with just 2 hots and a ground.

 

[BigFloyd]

Spas are wired to use a neutral wire, while 220v heating elements are not. Can you please explain how you wire a neutral to your boiling kettle for a gfci circuit?


*edit - Nevermind, it looks like it can monitor with just 2 hots and a ground.