Leaky compression fittings on HERMS coil

[lyonshead]

Trying I install a new stainless 1/2" HERMS coil I got from stainless brewing. I'm using Brew Hardware's true weldless bulkhead with 1/2" compression fitting in order to secure it to my pot. I have never used stainless ferrules until today and for the life of me I can't get it to stop leaking. I understand it takes a lot of torque, but I can't possibly get these things tighter and they're still leaking. I'm no body builder, but I'm in shape enough to do this (or so I thought)

I'm 4 hrs into this project and ready to scrap it all together. Does anyone have any tips for stoping the leaks? I have tightened them down to the point where there are almost no visible threads leftView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1441571845.732857.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1441571881.896327.jpg the leak is right where the tube enters the fitting. You can see by how beat up the fitting is, I've been at this a while.

Finally, if I simply can't get these things to work, what are my other options?

 

[Rockn_M]

I had to get 2 crescent wrenches to make mine leak proof. Defending how bad they leak you might only need a quarter of a turn.

 

[jigtwins]

Try some food safe lubricant on the threads and the ferrule. It takes a lot of torque to compress the SS ferrule onto the SS tube. get longer wenches, or cheater pipes may help.

 

[jigtwins]

Dish soap can be used to lube it

 

[Bobby_M]

What kind of wrenches are you using? Vice grips or channel locks don't work. Also, are you trying to set the ferrules with the fittings installed in the pot? Do it outside of the pot. When you remove the nut, is the thin ferrule stuck in place on the tubing?

 

[Bobby_M]

If you can't get the thin ferrules swaged onto the tubing then go with the nylon.

 

[KennyM]

+1 on the nylon ferrules. Much easier in tight places and they seal great.

 

[Hello]

What kind of wrenches are you using? Vice grips or channel locks don't work. Also, are you trying to set the ferrules with the fittings installed in the pot? Do it outside of the pot. When you remove the nut, is the thin ferrule stuck in place on the tubing?

Will crescent wrenches work, an adjustable one?

 

[Bobby_M]

Yes large adjustable wrenches will.

 

[jcav]

Hey Bobby, I have your nylon ferrules with the compression fittings. Just so I do it correctly when I go to install the herms coil and tighten everything down, do I still use the small metal ferrule with the nylon one, or just use the big nylon one by itself?

John

 

[lextasy23]

Use proper wrenches instead of pliers, you'll be much happier with the results.

 

[Hello]

Hey Bobby, I have your nylon ferrules with the compression fittings. Just so I do it correctly when I go to install the herms coil and tighten everything down, do I still use the small metal ferrule with the nylon one, or just use the big nylon one by itself?

John

I wondered this as well.


OP: did you ever get it to work?

 

[jcav]

I wondered this as well.


Hopefully someone will chime in! Hint, hint.....

 

[lyonshead]

Hey guys, I haven't reposted yet because I haven't attempted it yet. To bobby's point I was using channel locks. Clearly it didn't work and it beat the hell out of the nut. I only have one crescent wrench big enough for the job so I'm going to pick up another this weekend, add some soap (per suggestion) and attack it like it owes me money

As for the nylon option, I was under the impression that they couldn't hold up to the weight and torque of a 50 ft stainless HERMS coil. I use them for the diptubes and love them... Too late now anyways because the steel is definitely crimped on, it's just leaking slowly

 

[jcav]

Interesting, I talked to Bobby on the phone a few weeks ago before ordering the bulkhead with the compression fittings from him. He advised that the nylon fittings will work with the herms coil, you just can't take it apart and reinstall for cleaning over and over like a ball valve diptube. I should have asked him if I need to use the small ferrule or not with the nylon ferrule. If you have a leak you can't seem to fix, might as well try a keg post o ring or two on there without the big stainless steel ferrule, like they do on some Electric Brewery fittings, it just may work......

John

 

[lyonshead]

What would the temperature rating be for those o-rings? I have some, and considered that, but decided not to. Only a HERMS coil in an HLT, but it will still get up to 180 max.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

There should be no room in any compression fitting "nut", for two ferrules.

It will be one or the other.

To the poster with the leaking fitting, when you disassemble the compression fitting, can you "spin" the existing ferrule on the tube?

 

[Bobby_M]

The stainless ferrules are two piece; a larger cone that goes into the fitting taper and then a thin ring that goes just under the nut. These are directional where the tapered thin edge faces the fitting. The nylon ferrule is a one piece design so you don't use it with any metal ferrules in place. When someone asks, I generally try to feel out whether they have the tools needed to swage a SS ferrule. If they do, I tend to recommend that route for HERMS coils. The nylon works, but it's just a slightly lesser grip.

If after trying the larger adjustable wrench doesn't do it, the last effort I'd try is to wrap the narrow ferrule with a couple turns of teflon tape. It's not the ideal solution but it will stop the leak and act as packing.

 

[jcav]

What would the temperature rating be for those o-rings? I have some, and considered that, but decided not to. Only a HERMS coil in an HLT, but it will still get up to 180 max.

The high temp O rings are good from -60 to 400 degrees F according to McMaster Carr's specs. People use them in their boil kettles all the time for their diptubes.

Thanks Bobby for answering and clearing that up. I will use the nylon ferrule without the smaller metal ferrule and try that first. If I can't get a seal I can always just get some metal ferrules. I have the wrenches and can tighten them down far enough, although the bottom coil will be a very tight space but do-able.

John

 

[lyonshead]

I was hoping to report good news but instead I'm at my wits end. I got the proper tools and used some food grade lube and got maybe another 1/4 turn out of them. The leak is still there

The stainless ferrule is without a doubt swaged on. I'm lead to believe the leak is between the outside of the ferrule and the inside of the nut. I have a hard time believing it's between the ferrule and the pipe, cause like I said, it's NOT moving

I'm to the point of no return because these things won't come off to swap out for nylon. Teflon tape it is. If that doesn't work, I'm wondering about food grade silicone (like caulking) if there even is such a thing

 

[Bobby_M]

This is very unfortunate and I've never heard of this kind of failure before. Inspect the thin ferrule for nicks on the taper. Inspect for nicks in the entire larger cone ferrule and in the inverted cone of the fitting. If you find anything on the larger cone or the fitting itself, at least I can replace those for you. I'm pretty sure the teflon will help but if it doesn't, yes, food grade silicone sealant will be the end game.

Even though the thin ferrule is swaged on, as a last resort you can carefully cut through with a very steady hand and a small dremel cutoff wheel. That would release the compression nut and allow for using nylon ferrules.