I know I know, there is a label section. But it gets far less traffic than this one so I thought I'd try it here. I am going to need to label 200 bottles pretty soon. I know milk is what most people recommend. 2% I believe it the most recommended. I was curious if anyone else had some input on this. Thanks in advance.. CHEERS!
Label adhesive
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TyTanium
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Milk works like a champ. Even stays on with condensation & brief dunking/ice. Comes right off with hot water. Any % works. I apply to the back with foam staining brush and slap onto bottle. Print with laserjet; inkjets bleed.
bovineblitz
Well-Known Member
This might work.
http://chemistry.about.com/cs/howtos/ht/gluefrommilk.htm
Also I used an Elmer's gluestick on thicker paper (printed at a fedex/kinkos) and it was pretty easy to get it off with hot water.
http://chemistry.about.com/cs/howtos/ht/gluefrommilk.htm
Also I used an Elmer's gluestick on thicker paper (printed at a fedex/kinkos) and it was pretty easy to get it off with hot water.
scottland
Well-Known Member
Elmer's glue sticks. They work really well, it's quick and easy, and less messy.
They hold up will in a cooler full of water and ice, but wash right off with hot water. I can't think of a single reason not to use them.
95% of people have no issues with milk, but a few people report the milk makes a rotten smell on the bottles.
They hold up will in a cooler full of water and ice, but wash right off with hot water. I can't think of a single reason not to use them.
95% of people have no issues with milk, but a few people report the milk makes a rotten smell on the bottles.
Why do it the hard way? Just go buy a pack of Avery 2 x 4 inch mailing lables. 10 to a page. Run thru your printer, peal and stick.
They come off over night in a bucket of OxyClean. Can't imagine using a glue stick or milk on 200 bottles.
They come off over night in a bucket of OxyClean. Can't imagine using a glue stick or milk on 200 bottles.
I have a new cheaper process, before i use to buy label stickers which got expensive considering sometimes you can only get 4 per paper, I now just use plain paper, but i could get a thicker paper,and just a glue stick,worked perfect and the quality doesnt look any less, I have a lasor printer,my ink jet was a joke the cartriges almost needed to be replaced after a dozen sheets plus they bleed. i only label the bottles i give away so i dont care if they suck to pick off or not because i dont ask for the bottles back,i have enough as it is. I build enough inventory through commercial craft beer "research" so much that i had to start returning bottles.Now i just rotate the bottles i use from my pipline.
Chowe
Well-Known Member
I used glue sticks and they worked great, easy to clean off the bottle but they stay on till you want to remove them. With a color laser printer the ink does not run.
prrriiide
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Ok! I'm usually skeptical of things as simple as using Milk as an adhesive. So I tried it. 2% milk sprayed on the back of a label I printed with a color laser printer on cheap 20# copier paper. It went on the bottle like a dream. Dried it out over the AC register for a few minutes and stuck it in the fridge out in the garage. While it chilled down I walked down to the store and got a 6 pack of Bell's Lager. Hadn't had it yet so I figure why not give it a try. After about an hour in the Fridge the newly labeled bottle was cold enough to sweat like crazy in the 95 degree heat with dew points in the upper 60's. To my surprise the label on my beer stayed right in place. When I rubbed it with my thumb the paper started to deteriorate. Then I peeled up a corner and the label pulled right off. Noticing my Bell's sweating the same amount I did the same to it. The paper label didn't deteriorate, but peeled back a corner and stripped off the label just the same as my label. I put another label on a different bottle and chilled it. When I pulled it out of the fridge in the air conditioned house and let it sit on the counter for a few minutes and the label didn't have any problems dealing with the little bit of sweat that built up on it.
Next get some good glossy paper and see what happens when it sweats profusely.
Next get some good glossy paper and see what happens when it sweats profusely.
bovineblitz
Well-Known Member
I had issues with glossier paper, it didn't work nearly as well.
davekippen
Well-Known Member
Couple of thoughts: I started making "hangers" for some of the brews I am giving away. Think door knob hanger with normal beer label info. Maybe easier than labeling, dunno.
Also, I found this somewhere on HBT a while ago:
Basic Waterproof Glue
* 6 tbsp water
* 2 packets unflavored gelatin (1/2 oz.)
* 2 tbsp white vinegar
* 2 tsp glycerine
Bring water to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in gelatin until it is dissolved. Add vinegar and glycerin and stir well. Let the mixture cool slightly and pour into a jar and seal tightly. To Use: This glue is best applied while warm. Apply to surfaces using a brush. Glue will gel after a few days. To re-use, warm by placing the jar in a pan of hot water.
Also, I found this somewhere on HBT a while ago:
Basic Waterproof Glue
* 6 tbsp water
* 2 packets unflavored gelatin (1/2 oz.)
* 2 tbsp white vinegar
* 2 tsp glycerine
Bring water to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in gelatin until it is dissolved. Add vinegar and glycerin and stir well. Let the mixture cool slightly and pour into a jar and seal tightly. To Use: This glue is best applied while warm. Apply to surfaces using a brush. Glue will gel after a few days. To re-use, warm by placing the jar in a pan of hot water.
bovineblitz
Well-Known Member
I think it was the gloss. Also the paper is slightly stiffer so had a tendency to pull away from the bottle slightly more... but mainly the gloss.
I just used a gluestick since I'd spent a bunch of money at a store to print nice labels. It worked fine and was easy to clean off.
I have labeled 20+ full batches using cheap laser paper / milk with great results. I swear by it. I dip the labels completely in a saucer and smooth them out with a paper towel after I apply. I have learned that the thinner cheaper paper works best. Heavier stuff is difficult to apply and wrinkles more. You can stretch thin paper over the glass to avoid wrinkles.
kaboom505
Active Member
Dry nonfat milk (with water obviously).
I've found that the smoother copy paper doesn't stay stuck. I found some 25% cotton paper laying around and it works great. It's the stuff you get at Staples for 8 cents/page. More than the cheap paper but it probably won't kill your profit margin
I've found that the smoother copy paper doesn't stay stuck. I found some 25% cotton paper laying around and it works great. It's the stuff you get at Staples for 8 cents/page. More than the cheap paper but it probably won't kill your profit margin
ghack
Well-Known Member
+1 on glue sticks. Generic office store glue sticks work great, require no mixing or measuring and dirt cheap. It comes right off with a little soak.
