Kegging my first tonight, check my process for accuracy

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TravelingLight

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I'm kegging my first beer tonight (IPA, if that matters). I'm a big planner so I've got my process all planned out. I was hoping someone more knowledgeable than me can check my process and tell me if all is well or I should adjust anything. Here's my plan...

1. Clean, sanitize, and fill the keg with my syphon, minimizing splashing, seal it up.

2. Turn up the gas to about 10 psi for 20 seconds, then pull the pressure release valve. Do this two or three times to purge the residual oxygen. [**Do I keep the gas hooked up during this and just keep purging and letting it re-pressurize?**]

3. Then put the psi about 10-12, remove the gas line and put it in the kegerator overnight to chill.

4. Next day, crank the gas to 30 psi, roll the keg back and forth for 3-5 minutes. [**Do I keep the gas connected during the rolling or just get it to pressure then remove the gas line before rolling?**]

5. After rolling the keg, remove the gas line (but keep the pressure at 30 psi), and place back in the kegerator for 8-10 hours.

6. Finally, bleed all pressure from the keg, re-attach the gas line and crank it up to serving pressure.

Is this correct? Is it overkill? Thanks for any advice and answers to my above questions as well.
 
My process isn't perfect, but it has worked well with me, so I'll share it here, and you can decide if you'd like to try it or not.

First, I'd say to fill your keg cold if you can. I always fill mine immediately after cold crashing, so everything is nice and compact at the bottom of the fermenter, and you don't have to wait for your keg to cool down to start carbing. That aside...

1 - Clean and sanitize your keg. Put about a 1/2 gallon of Star San in, shake it around really well. Then connect the gas and charge it up a bit. Now you know your keg holds a tight seal with no gas or beer leaks. Use a picnic tap and push the star san out through the liquid out. Now your dip tube is sanitized as well.

2 - Fill with your siphon, minimizing any splashing as much as possible.

3 - Connect the gas, set to 30 PSI and purge 13-15 times. This will get the oxygen down to unnoticeable levels. (There are lots of posts on that here, so I won't bother finding the graph and linking it, but I'm sure you can find it in a search). When you purge either disconnect the gas line or shut off the valve, so you completely purge all the gas in the keg, then reconnect, fill, purge again, repeat.

4 - Put your keg in the kegerator. If it's already chilled, then move on to the next step. If not, seal the lid with about 5 PSI and allow it to chill down to your serving temp before proceeding.

5 - Set the keg to 30 PSI and leave it alone for 36 hours.

6 - Purge the keg, let it set for a few minutes, purge again.

7 - Set gas to your serving temp, fill keg, leave it alone for 12 hours.

8 - Enjoy your beer.

I don't do any of that rocking back and forth stuff, and this has worked out really well for me. Good luck!
 
Sounds like you're attempting to do a quick carb.

For the purge step (#2), the idea is to first just get the air out of the very top. You don't need much psi for that, just enough to push out the oxygen. I turn the gas to a bare minimum registered pressure (2-4 psi). I use a manifold so I have an on/off valve to control the gas flow. I turn it on. The gas will hiss as it fills the headspace. When the hiss stops, turn off the flow at the valve. Pull the release to purge. Turn the valve back on; hissss... it stops.... valve off... pull release valve. Repeat that 3-4 times.

Then you're ready to carb it up properly. I use the "set and forget" method and put my regulator on 12 PSI, then stand up the keg in its permanent home in my keezer and leave it alone. I have 6 kegs on a single regulator, so I don't bother with quick carbing. Others will chime in on that technique I'm sure.

[Edit: It's funny, the poster above purges 15 times at 30 PSI, and I purge 4 times at just a few PSI. And I'll bet we both make good beer!]
 
Hi,

1. If you want you can purge the keg a few times prior to filling it with beer, some people think it helps eliminate any oxygen during the filling process.

2. You can keep the gas hooked up during purging. What I do is close the release valve on my gas line when I pull the pressure release valve, then open it again to re-fill the keg with Co2.

3. Not sure if this step is necessary... I turn the gas up to 30psi right away and leave it on the keg for 24 hours, then I purge the keg again and turn the pressure down to 10psi and let it sit for a few more days.

4. The process you are describing is for a burst carb, I've never done the rolling technique, but I hear it helps carb faster. The danger is you can over carb your beer using this method. If you go this route I would remove the gas line prior to rolling the keg.

I think your process looks fine, just be aware it can lead to over-carbing. I let it sit at 30 psi for a day, then turn it down to 10 psi for a few more days and I get a great level of carb.

Let me know if you have any questions!
 
Looks about right up to #4. Im not a huge fan of rolling, as repeating the same results isnt very consistent.

1: A good practice would be to purge the keg with Co2. You can do this by hooking up a liquid disconnect to the gas line and purge Co2 through the dip tube of the keg purging out some of the 02, decreasing oxidation.

2: Is the beer you are transferring cold or at room temp. If it is already cold, you can start carbonating (I will explain in #3). If not, you have the right idea of adding some Co2 and chilling the keg.

3: Removing as many variables will help you keep processes easy and repeatable. As for carbing the beer, when the keg is cold (either right after kegging from the fermentor or after it has been chilled) you can just hook up the gas to the keg (gas side, no need to reverse fittings and carb through the dip tube) set the PSI on 30, and let it sit for 24-36 hours. Then drop the PSI back down to serving pressure (usually 10-12 PSI assuming you have your system balanced). If you want the beer less carbed, reduce the amount of time @ 30 PSI. If you want it more carbed, increase the time. Since that is your only variable, it is easy to repeat the results.

**As for chilling the keg before carbing, it is possible to do at room temp. There is an article floating around where Yooper and Bobby_M touch on the physics points where it is not necessary to chill the keg and still be able to force carb.
 
[Edit: It's funny, the poster above purges 15 times at 30 PSI, and I purge 4 times at just a few PSI. And I'll bet we both make good beer!]

Ya know, that is one of the things I love most about this hobby - there are dozens of ways to do almost every task, everyone does things differently, and there is still a lot of great beer made.

I also love science though :) So if you're interested in CO2 pressure vs. number of purge cycles and the parts per million of O2 left in head space after each cycle, I'd urge you to check out:

attachment.php


and

attachment.php


As you can see the graphs start at 10 PSI, so going lower than that will take significantly more purges, and 15 purge cycles @ 30 PSI gets it down to acceptable levels for professional brewers by today's standards.

But if you're making good beer and enjoy your process, I'd go with the "ain't broke, don't fix it" approach. :mug:
 
Ya know, that is one of the things I love most about this hobby - there are dozens of ways to do almost every task, everyone does things differently, and there is still a lot of great beer made.



I also love science though :) So if you're interested in CO2 pressure vs. number of purge cycles and the parts per million of O2 left in head space after each cycle, I'd urge you to check out:



attachment.php




and



attachment.php




As you can see the graphs start at 10 PSI, so going lower than that will take significantly more purges, and 15 purge cycles @ 30 PSI gets it down to acceptable levels for professional brewers by today's standards.



But if you're making good beer and enjoy your process, I'd go with the "ain't broke, don't fix it" approach. :mug:


Very interesting graphs. I usually do 6-8 purges at 30 psi, but looking at this chart will up it by s few more
 
Hmmm...y'all have given me plenty of good ideas. I'm thinking now I may essentially do everything I was planning on, except rolling the keg to force carb it. I'll probably just let it sit for 24 hours or so at ~30 psi, purge it, then pressurize back to ~12 psi for serving pressure and let it sit a little longer.

**Assuming I do it this way, after carbing at 30 for 24 hours, then purge and set to serving pressure, how long should I leave it at serving pressure before it should be good to drink?**

(Typical anxiousness ready to taste my first beer!)
 
Hmmm...y'all have given me plenty of good ideas. I'm thinking now I may essentially do everything I was planning on, except rolling the keg to force carb it. I'll probably just let it sit for 24 hours or so at ~30 psi, purge it, then pressurize back to ~12 psi for serving pressure and let it sit a little longer.

**Assuming I do it this way, after carbing at 30 for 24 hours, then purge and set to serving pressure, how long should I leave it at serving pressure before it should be good to drink?**

(Typical anxiousness ready to taste my first beer!)

Let it sit another day or two at serving pressure. Then give it a try. After 24 hours at 30 psi, and then another day or two at serving pressure, you are probably 90-95% of the way carbed. A week after that, and it's 100% there.
 
Sorry for the noob question but I've been trying to study up on kegging and the amount of new and old info is beginning to blend and make my head hurt. I just kegged my first two batches and skipped using sugar ... A little worried I F*$#4 it up.
 
Sorry for the noob question but I've been trying to study up on kegging and the amount of new and old info is beginning to blend and make my head hurt. I just kegged my first two batches and skipped using sugar ... A little worried I F*$#4 it up.
No need to prime with sugar if kegging. The CO2 carbs it.
 
Very interesting graphs. I usually do 6-8 purges at 30 psi, but looking at this chart will up it by s few more

I like the chart too. However, my reaction is that my usual 4 purges at 30 psi is probably good enough for my purposes since it removes 99% of the oxygen. That's probably a good bit better than I did when I bottled and I rarely picked up even mild oxidation flavors, even in very old bottles. At your current practice of 7 purges, you have removed 99.96% of the original head space oxygen.

Zero oxygen is nice, but there is always a flavor threshold for off flavors and it's never at zero.
 
Another option that works very well, is to carb your keg/beer at serving pressure. You just have to have patience grasshopper.

Keg - purge - set at serving pressure (i.e. 10 - 12 psi) - let it be for about 10 - 14 days.
 
Another option that works very well, is to carb your keg/beer at serving pressure. You just have to have patience grasshopper.

Keg - purge - set at serving pressure (i.e. 10 - 12 psi) - let it be for about 10 - 14 days.

10-14 days? Are you out of you mind? Ok, just kidding, but I couldn't wait that long.
 
10-14 days? Are you out of you mind? Ok, just kidding, but I couldn't wait that long.

With only one keg, yes it can feel like an eternity, with a couple of kegs going at different dates, you hardly even notice. :D
 
Hmmm...y'all have given me plenty of good ideas. I'm thinking now I may essentially do everything I was planning on, except rolling the keg to force carb it. I'll probably just let it sit for 24 hours or so at ~30 psi, purge it, then pressurize back to ~12 psi for serving pressure and let it sit a little longer.

**Assuming I do it this way, after carbing at 30 for 24 hours, then purge and set to serving pressure, how long should I leave it at serving pressure before it should be good to drink?**

(Typical anxiousness ready to taste my first beer!)

I'd probably fill and purge the keg, and then put it on the gas at 30 psi for 36 hours, and then purge and reset to 11-12 psi (assuming your kegerator is about 40 degrees). Then, pull a small sample of about 3 ounces, to get rid of any trub/sludge, and dump that. Then, pour another small sample to see how it's coming along. It should be drinkable right then, but better the next day.



OK, noob time. Priming sugar? None needed or used with these methods?

You wouldn't add priming sugar, since it would be too cold in the kegerator for the yeast to work and carb up the beer. The force carbing with c02 negates the need for priming sugar.
 
Well, got it done last night. But it was NOT without its issues. Was it Mike Tyson that used to say, "Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth." I had a plan. And got punched.

First problem started with my weak ass p***y syphon. I couldn't get it to stay primed. And I'm pretty sure that I ended up oxygenating some. Oh well couldn't help it. I also ended up leaving at least a half gallon in the carboy because I couldn't get it out short of picking up the carboy and dumping it in. No bueno. I will be getting a bigger, better syphon before my next one.

Then the bigger problem. Get the beer in the keg seal it up, connect the gas to purge and get it on some co2. As soon as I turn the tank on the gas starts shooting out of somewhere. It's not the regulator. Everything is fine on that side. It's coming out from, like, the base of the main valve on the tank. I'm almost thinking that release or blow off nut on the tank (assuming that's what it is) is open or something. I can post a pic if anyone has any ideas and wants to see it. Thankfully, my buddy right down the road had an open gas line in his keezer so I took it to his house to get it on some gas and chill it in his keezer. I'm going to swing back by tonight to pick up the keg and let him look at my tank. Is anyone familiar with something like this? I feel like it's a dumb mistake and when I figure it out it'll be a total face palm. Thoughts?
 
See this picture. The part I have circled red seems to be where it's coming from. As soon as I open the valve at the tank it starts pouring out of that area. Thoughts?
mB2oxlG.jpg
 
Sounds like you've got a problem with your tank, not your regulator. Did you have it refilled or exchanged? Either way I'd probably take it back and ask for a new one.
 
Sounds like you've got a problem with your tank, not your regulator. Did you have it refilled or exchanged? Either way I'd probably take it back and ask for a new one.
Exchanged it. That's what I was wondering. I might just run back by that place at lunch and see what's up and/or switch it out.
 
Yeah, that's what I'd do. If it's an exchange, it's not really your tank, so any problems I'd just go back to the place that did the exchange.
Thanks brother. Just to make sure I didn't make a ******* mistake, let me make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. I hooked the regulator to the tank. Had the regulator off/closed. Then cranked on the tank with intentions of cranking it wide open then slowly opening the regulator to get to the right psi. Just making sure I didn't cause any issues by opening the tank valve with the regulator valve closed.
 
Nope, shouldn't cause any issues. I leave the tank I use for carbing beers up in the garage always wide open with the regulator valve closed. Never been any issues.
Thanks. I just went and switched out the tank. Guy at the shop weighed the new one he gave me to make sure it was good to go. Got it home and hooked up the regulator. This one is also blowing gas, but it's coming from the regulator connection. So I'm pretty confident I just need to crank down that nut farther/tighter and possibly put some teflon/plumber tape around the connection. If that doesn't work...then somebody is getting some negative ebay feedback!
 
FYI - You don't use teflon/plumber tape on those types of threads. Doing so could actually lead to a CO2 leak. Are you using the washer in-between your tank and regulator or does your regulator have one of the built in washers? Definitely use a wrench and give it a good crank down.
 
FYI - You don't use teflon/plumber tape on those types of threads. Doing so could actually lead to a CO2 leak. Are you using the washer in-between your tank and regulator or does your regulator have one of the built in washers? Definitely use a wrench and give it a good crank down.
I *think* my regulator has a built in washer? There's a small rubber washer o-ring thing at the end of the post with the nut that attaches to the tank. Thanks for the heads up! I will not use teflon. I'll just get out the big channel locks and crank it down as tight as I can get it. FWIW, the rubber/silicone/whatever washer in the regulator looks fine. No cracks or anything.

ETA: Everytime I see one of your posts and look at your signature it makes me want to be your neighbor. Great lineup of homebrews!
 
Usually they have a little sticker on the nut telling you that you don't need a washer, at least all of my taprite ones do.

Just be sure if you have the built in washer you don't also use the tank washer as that will lead to leaks as well.

Funny on the neighbor thing - I've invited them over a few times for a beer, but they've never taken me up on the offer!
 
Usually they have a little sticker on the nut telling you that you don't need a washer, at least all of my taprite ones do.

Just be sure if you have the built in washer you don't also use the tank washer as that will lead to leaks as well.

Funny on the neighbor thing - I've invited them over a few times for a beer, but they've never taken me up on the offer!
I don't even think I have the tank washer. I didn't see one with/on the tank and I know I didn't get one with my regulator.

You don't by chance trade any of those homebrews, do you?? I'd LOVE to get my hands on that sour red or, especially, the ollie berry lambic.
 
You don't by chance trade any of those homebrews, do you?? I'd LOVE to get my hands on that sour red or, especially, the ollie berry lambic.

:off: Thanks for the kind words! Unfortunately I'm down to maybe 5-6 bottles of the sour red from last year, so I'd like to hang on to those. I'll be brewing it again in a few months, so if you remember to hit me up around October I'm sure I'll have several bottles ;)

On the olallieberry lambic, that's actually a pretty unique beer. We imported 1, 2, and 3 year old lambic in bulk from producers in Belgium, and then blended them in the barrel. The folks I worked with it on and I agreed that we wouldn't trade, sell, etc. the bottles. Come to Santa Cruz though and we can open one!
 
:off: Thanks for the kind words! Unfortunately I'm down to maybe 5-6 bottles of the sour red from last year, so I'd like to hang on to those. I'll be brewing it again in a few months, so if you remember to hit me up around October I'm sure I'll have several bottles ;)

On the olallieberry lambic, that's actually a pretty unique beer. We imported 1, 2, and 3 year old lambic in bulk from producers in Belgium, and then blended them in the barrel. The folks I worked with it on and I agreed that we wouldn't trade, sell, etc. the bottles. Come to Santa Cruz though and we can open one!
Totally understand that. No worries! Man, that's awesome you were able to source that lambic. Might I ask how you went about doing that? Did you have a connection or did you just reach out to someone over that way?
 
Okay, well now we've veered totally off topic, but since you asked...

Yeah, it definitely helps if you know someone that lives in Belgium, is already an avid home blender, and that person has connections at the various lambic brewers. I didn't know the guy, but one of my friends did. He was able to source it for us from some of the less well known brewers (Giradin, Lindeman's De Troch), but the bigger places (Cantillon, etc.) will not sell to home blenders. It was shipped over in 10L bag in a box setups which are pretty similar to wine in a box here in the US.
 
Well, got it done last night. But it was NOT without its issues. Was it Mike Tyson that used to say, "Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth." I had a plan. And got punched.

First problem started with my weak ass p***y syphon. I couldn't get it to stay primed. And I'm pretty sure that I ended up oxygenating some. Oh well couldn't help it. I also ended up leaving at least a half gallon in the carboy because I couldn't get it out short of picking up the carboy and dumping it in. No bueno. I will be getting a bigger, better syphon before my next one.

Then the bigger problem. Get the beer in the keg seal it up, connect the gas to purge and get it on some co2. As soon as I turn the tank on the gas starts shooting out of somewhere. It's not the regulator. Everything is fine on that side. It's coming out from, like, the base of the main valve on the tank. I'm almost thinking that release or blow off nut on the tank (assuming that's what it is) is open or something. I can post a pic if anyone has any ideas and wants to see it. Thankfully, my buddy right down the road had an open gas line in his keezer so I took it to his house to get it on some gas and chill it in his keezer. I'm going to swing back by tonight to pick up the keg and let him look at my tank. Is anyone familiar with something like this? I feel like it's a dumb mistake and when I figure it out it'll be a total face palm. Thoughts?


I highly recommend the syphinless big mouth bubblers from northern Brewer. Attach a hose and your beer goes direct from fermenter to keg.
 
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