Just started brewing, some questions.

[Dutch_Brewer]

Hi All! I've just started brewing and I have some questions. I've been reading a lot and seeing a lot of videos although I have some questions.

I've brewed my first beer with the starter kit from the Brooklyn brewery and have bought a refill for this kit that I brewed yesterday. Basically this kit contains a glass flask a tube, an airlock and the necessary ingredients. The ingredients contained yeast, hops, pre-milled malt.

- Is there any use for this kit for my future brews?

- I have a hard time understanding the ingredients if it says a boil time and the hop time would that be the time the hops have to cook or the time to throw in the hops in the boiling proces?

- What would be the next thing to buy when stepping up the game?

- In the beer industry it's common to clear the beer, however I've found that no recipe or video for home brewing shows this, isn't it common in home brewed beer?

English is not my native language so sorry for any errors here.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

- Is there any use for this kit for my future brews?

Assuming the 'glass flask' is a conical fermenter, both it and the airlock are suitable for future brews. You'll need to be able to thoroughly clean and then sanitise them (I use Starsan for sanitising).

- I have a hard time understanding the ingredients if it says a boil time and the hop time would that be the time the hops have to cook or the time to throw in the hops in the boiling proces?

The time quoted for the hops is nearly always how long to cook them for (i.e. how long is remaining of the boil). So if you have a 60 minute boil,
a 15 minute hop addition would go in after 45 minutes of the boil is complete and 15 minutes is remaining.

- What would be the next thing to buy when stepping up the game?

A simple next step would be to add some steeped specialty grains to your extract brews (it doesn't require any specialised equipment though). After that, you could either buy a mash tun to get in to all-grain brewing (or a Brew-in-a-Bag system), or a fermentation chamber to focus on improved ferments.

- In the beer industry it's common to clear the beer, however I've found that no recipe or video for home brewing shows this, isn't it common in home brewed beer?

Most brewers are happy with the clarity of their beer by simply adding whirlfloc or irish moss to the boil (helps flocculation) and good brewing practices. The finished product is normally slightly hazy. Some brewers (myself included with some brews) add gelatine or isinglass as a post-ferment fining agent to get crystal clear beer. It doesn't taste any better though.

 

[Griffin495]

1) The glass carboy, airlock and racking cane can be used over and over. You'll get quite a few uses out of the tubing, but tubing eventually needs to be replaced as it gets old. The only thing you need to buy for each new batch is the grains, hops and yeast. You can buy their refill kits, or take any 5 gallon recipe, divide by 5 and pick up those ingredients at your local shop. If you are using dry packets of yeast, I usually use about a 3rd of one for each batch and store the rest in an airtight bag in the fridge until my next beer.

3) Stepping up the game - You can continue to brew one gallon batches as long as you want or you can up your batches to 5 gallons or any amount you want. I think the best improvement you can make though would be some way to control fermentation temperatures. With one gallon batches, a mini fridge and an inkbird controller is all you need.

4) Clearing your beer - you could use Irish moss or Whilfloc towards the end of your boil, you could cold crash your beer for 24-48 hours after fermentation is complete, or you could cold crash and add gelatin. Or you could do all three. Up to you. Plenty of threads about how to accomplish them here.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

Assuming the 'glass flask' is a conical fermenter, both it and the airlock are suitable for future brews. You'll need to be able to thoroughly clean and then sanitise them (I use Starsan for sanitising).

thank's for your reply, it's not a conical fermenter (i googled that) it's onl a glass flask

it is however airlockable witht the airlock that came with it. And I can sanitize it with the sanitizer and will buy some more sanitizing powder.

The time quoted for the hops is nearly always how long to cook them for (i.e. how long is remaining of the boil). So if you have a 60 minute boil,

that makes sense, thank you.

A simple next step would be to add some steeped specialty grains to your extract brews (it doesn't require any specialised equipment though). After that, you could either buy a mash tun to get in to all-grain brewing (or a Brew-in-a-Bag system), or a fermentation chamber to focus on improved ferments.

I think I already did an ALL-GRAIN brew there were no extacts nor powders just grains and hops in the kit.

Most brewers are happy with the clarity of their beer by simply adding whirlfloc or irish moss to the boil (helps flocculation) and good brewing practices. The finished product is normally slightly hazy. Some brewers (myself included with some brews) add gelatine or isinglass as a post-ferment fining agent to get crystal clear beer. It doesn't taste any better though.

Thank's for explaining, so Whirfloc or irish moss is added during the cooking of the wort and post-ferment fining agents are added when bottling? Or earlier?

What is the difference in terms of use of a PET carboy, A bucket fermenter or a RVS fermenter?

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

1) The glass carboy, airlock and racking cane can be used over and over. You'll get quite a few uses out of the tubing, but tubing eventually needs to be replaced as it gets old. The only thing you need to buy for each new batch is the grains, hops and yeast. You can buy their refill kits, or take any 5 gallon recipe, divide by 5 and pick up those ingredients at your local shop. If you are using dry packets of yeast, I usually use about a 3rd of one for each batch and store the rest in an airtight bag in the fridge until my next beer.

Thank's for explaining. I found where I can buy replacement airlocks and tubes so in my next order I will get an extra set. So per gallon I need 1/3 of dry packet yeast?

3) Stepping up the game - You can continue to brew one gallon batches as long as you want or you can up your batches to 5 gallons or any amount you want. I think the best improvement you can make though would be some way to control fermentation temperatures. With one gallon batches, a mini fridge and an inkbird controller is all you need.

That makes sense. But why a fridge? I thought fermenting only works when there is some heat. In the room where I ferment it's always 19-21 celcius.

4) Clearing your beer - you could use Irish moss or Whilfloc towards the end of your boil, you could cold crash your beer for 24-48 hours after fermentation is complete, or you could cold crash and add gelatin. Or you could do all three. Up to you. Plenty of threads about how to accomplish them here.

Thank's for the info! I will look it up.

 

[chris_the_goat]

1/3 of a dry pack will work for now. You will want to experiment with different yeasts as you brew more. They can provide lots of different flavors! They also like to ferment at different temperatures. 19-21C is a good range for most ales. Lagers might like 8-10C. Temperatures will also rise significantly during active fermentation. Controlling the temperature lets you prevent off flavors that might occur if it ferments too hot.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

1/3 of a dry pack will work for now. You will want to experiment with different yeasts as you brew more. They can provide lots of different flavors! They also like to ferment at different temperatures. 19-21C is a good range for most ales. Lagers might like 8-10C. Temperatures will also rise significantly during active fermentation. Controlling the temperature lets you prevent off flavors that might occur if it ferments too hot.

Thank's! So there is no need for a dedicated fermenting chamber if my room temperature is always around the 19-21 C range? Or would it get to hot during the first days of fermentation and get me the bad flavors, but how would I regulate that?

 

[RM-MN]

Thank's! So there is no need for a dedicated fermenting chamber if my room temperature is always around the 19-21 C range? Or would it get to hot during the first days of fermentation and get me the bad flavors, but how would I regulate that?

Easy way, set the fermenter in a big tub of water. The water will draw off the excess heat and keep your beer at the approximate temperature of the room.
Slightly harder way, same container of water but this time add some ice or bottles of frozen water to help keep the beer cooler.
Other slightly harder way, same container of water, wrap the fermenter in a cloth (tshirt, towel, etc) with the lower part of the cloth immersed in the water and let evaporation help cool the beer. Adding a fan blowing on the wet cloth helps.
More expensive way, set fermenter in refrigerator and use a temperature controller to keep the temp of the beer constant.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

Easy way, set the fermenter in a big tub of water. The water will draw off the excess heat and keep your beer at the approximate temperature of the room.
Slightly harder way, same container of water but this time add some ice or bottles of frozen water to help keep the beer cooler.
Other slightly harder way, same container of water, wrap the fermenter in a cloth (tshirt, towel, etc) with the lower part of the cloth immersed in the water and let evaporation help cool the beer. Adding a fan blowing on the wet cloth helps.
More expensive way, set fermenter in refrigerator and use a temperature controller to keep the temp of the beer constant.

I will try the tub trick first! I'm thinking of building a small cabinet with PIR plates to insulate and use an arduino with heating element to control te temperature (and place that in my garage where the ambient temperature is much lower), would that be a good idea?

 

[RM-MN]

I will try the tub trick first! I'm thinking of building a small cabinet with PIR plates to insulate and use an arduino with heating element to control te temperature (and place that in my garage where the ambient temperature is much lower), would that be a good idea?

If your garage always stays cool enough that is a great idea. Look at the website of the yeast manufacturers and see what the recommended temperature range is for the yeast you expect to use and make sure the garage temp is low enough for all of them or plan to use ice to reduce the temp.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

If your garage always stays cool enough that is a great idea. Look at the website of the yeast manufacturers and see what the recommended temperature range is for the yeast you expect to use and make sure the garage temp is low enough for all of them or plan to use ice to reduce the temp.

Thank's I will look at some yeasts that will work for my temperature.

 

[ncbrewer]

A fermometer (stick-on thermometer) helps you judge the beer temperature.

 

[ncbrewer]

Turnaround times vary, but I leave it in the fermenter about 18 days. Then I brew a new batch about 2 days later. It depends on how much you drink, but a one gallon system could be too small. A gallon wouldn't last the 20 day turnaround for me. You might consider a 5 gallon system.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

I just purchased 2 stick on thermometer for the glass carboys and bought one more 1 gallon glass carboy so I can do 2 gallon at a time.

I read that fermentation is active the first 48h-72h why should we keep them in the fermenter for 2 weeks then?

 

[RM-MN]

I just purchased 2 stick on thermometer for the glass carboys and bought one more 1 gallon glass carboy so I can do 2 gallon at a time.

I read that fermentation is active the first 48h-72h why should we keep them in the fermenter for 2 weeks then?

During the first 2 to 4 days the yeast is busy eating the sugars. Once done with that they clean up the byproducts, some of which add to the alcohol content. Then the beer is full of yeast and trub that was stirred up during that activity and needs some time to settle out. When I leave my beers in the fermenter longer, more yeast settles out and I get less in my bottles. That time also counts towards maturation so your beer may take 4 to 52 weeks to mature but it can have less time in the bottles to do so if it spent part of that time in the fermenter.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

During the first 2 to 4 days the yeast is busy eating the sugars. Once done with that they clean up the byproducts, some of which add to the alcohol content. Then the beer is full of yeast and trub that was stirred up during that activity and needs some time to settle out. When I leave my beers in the fermenter longer, more yeast settles out and I get less in my bottles. That time also counts towards maturation so your beer may take 4 to 52 weeks to mature but it can have less time in the bottles to do so if it spent part of that time in the fermenter.

Thank's most recipes/instructions I ready tell 2 weeks in the fermenter and atleast 2 weeks in the bottle before drinking, is that the way to go? I also read when you are uncertain of good fermentation leaving it in the fermenter for more weeks is a good idea, why is that?

What is a good alternative yeast for WLP530 I can't seem to find this yeast and it's called for by a recipe i'd like to try.

 

[chris_the_goat]

http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm

That is a handy yeast equivalency chart. WLP530 is them same as Wyeast 3787, probably the most widely used Belgian yeast. Most Belgian yeast would be a good substitute. I like WY3522/WLP550.

As far as fermentation periods, the 2 week in primary and 2 week in bottles is a good method to start out. Unless something is going wrong you should have full attenuation and some time for the yeast to clean up like RM-MN was saying. This is especially true if you don't control temperatures well. As you do more batches, you will notice that many beers will finish before 2 weeks are up. As for bottle conditioning, the beer will usually be fully carbonated in 2 or 3 days. Some beers will be ready to drink at this point, but most improve with a little more age. Belgians in particular can benefit from a little age. A tripel I made was good from early on, but hit its peak around 9 months in the bottle. Unfortunately, there were not many left by then.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm

That is a handy yeast equivalency chart. WLP530 is them same as Wyeast 3787, probably the most widely used Belgian yeast. Most Belgian yeast would be a good substitute. I like WY3522/WLP550.

As far as fermentation periods, the 2 week in primary and 2 week in bottles is a good method to start out. Unless something is going wrong you should have full attenuation and some time for the yeast to clean up like RM-MN was saying. This is especially true if you don't control temperatures well. As you do more batches, you will notice that many beers will finish before 2 weeks are up. As for bottle conditioning, the beer will usually be fully carbonated in 2 or 3 days. Some beers will be ready to drink at this point, but most improve with a little more age. Belgians in particular can benefit from a little age. A tripel I made was good from early on, but hit its peak around 9 months in the bottle. Unfortunately, there were not many left by then.

thank's I will see if I can get myself some of belgian yeasts you named.

 

[RM-MN]

Thank's most recipes/instructions I ready tell 2 weeks in the fermenter and atleast 2 weeks in the bottle before drinking, is that the way to go? I also read when you are uncertain of good fermentation leaving it in the fermenter for more weeks is a good idea, why is that?

What is a good alternative yeast for WLP530 I can't seem to find this yeast and it's called for by a recipe i'd like to try.

It's pretty difficult to tell if a fermentation is done without using a hydrometer so some people advocate leaving the beer in the fermenter longer just to make sure. I'll tell you to always use the hydrometer to be sure of complete fermentation as I have had one batch stall. It had 2 weeks or more in the fermenter and I was going to bottle it until I took the hydrometer sample and discovered that it was not yet at final gravity. It restarted and was complete a week later.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

It's pretty difficult to tell if a fermentation is done without using a hydrometer so some people advocate leaving the beer in the fermenter longer just to make sure. I'll tell you to always use the hydrometer to be sure of complete fermentation as I have had one batch stall. It had 2 weeks or more in the fermenter and I was going to bottle it until I took the hydrometer sample and discovered that it was not yet at final gravity. It restarted and was complete a week later.

I ordered a hydrometer to measure this with the small glas that goes with it, I hope it arrived before the weekend so I can start the next batch

 

[Cauchy]

I recommend keeping a notebook (paper or on the computer) where you write all the details when you brew:

-Recipe.
-Water, mash, etc. temperatures.
- Water source.
-Timeline of the things you did.
-Hydrometer gravity readings.
-Fermentation time.
-Aeration method.
-Priming sugar amount.

These are just some suggestions; the more data you include the better!

Now you can review your notes and have ideas. For example, in case something changes from batch of beer to batch of beer.

Good luck!

Random note: I love Brouwerij De Molen!

 

[TasunkaWitko]

- Is there any use for this kit for my future brews?

Yes, very much so. I still use mine all the time.

- I have a hard time understanding the ingredients if it says a boil time and the hop time would that be the time the hops have to cook or the time to throw in the hops in the boiling proces?

Brooklyn Brew Shop's Instructions (in my opinion) describe the hop additions in the opposite manner that is customary. times for adding the hops are during the boil, so when they say "55 minutes," they mean with 5 minutes left in the boil.

- What would be the next thing to buy when stepping up the game?

My opinion: learn your fundamentals, improve your process, start with some recipes and then create your own!

- In the beer industry it's common to clear the beer, however I've found that no recipe or video for home brewing shows this, isn't it common in home brewed beer?

Some time in the refrigerator (2 or 3 weeks, or even more) will do wonders to clear your beer.

I am a big fan of Brooklyn Brew Shop, and heartily recommend it for beginning brewing. I also believe that the equipment and the techniques grow with you, so that you can keep learning and improve.

Good luck - I hope this helps -

Ron

 

[TasunkaWitko]

A simple next step would be to add some steeped specialty grains to your extract brews....

Brooklyn Brew Shop is all-grain, but I agree about adding some variations. I had one mix that was for "Cherry Wheat, and decided to try chokecherries from our mountains instead. It was very good!

 

[DarkStarNJ]

With 1 gallon batches you likely may not want to waste any taking Hydro readings... I'd just let it ride out

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

Oké I will brew some next weekend and take all this information into account.

 

[ncbrewer]

Many of us who bottle have had bottle bombs one time or another. I didn''t get injured, luckily. As a safety precaution, many brewers take a gravity sample 2 - 3 days before bottling day, and another on bottling day. If the gravity has dropped at all, it's not finished - postpone bottling. My suggestion is this: Until you get plenty of experience, either take gravity samples as I described, or give it three weeks in the fermenter to be reasonably sure fermentation is finished. IMO 3 weeks won't hurt anything.

 

[chris_the_goat]

Getting the hydrometer was a smart move. You should be able to avoid bottle bombs and you will learn a lot more about fermentation. Plus you can calculate ABV and more geeky things like efficiency.

Another way to avoid bottle bombs is to use plastic soda bottles. They can easily hold the pressure of a beer and you can vent them if they overcarbonate. They aren't recommended for long term storage (and they don't look great), but you probably won't have that issue with 1 gallon batches.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

I've understood that I should be really carefull with the priming sugar to avoid too much gas in the bottles.

When i'm harvesting yeast i've understood that I should not put the lid on tight when storing them in the fridge, but after how long can I thighten the lid?

 

[chris_the_goat]

When i'm harvesting yeast i've understood that I should not put the lid on tight when storing them in the fridge, but after how long can I thighten the lid?

Definitely don't tighten the lid for at least a day, unless you are using a container that can handle pressure. At that point the CO2 should be more or less stabilized in the liquid. I just leave the lid a little loose on a mason jar until I use it. You could also just cover the top with foil. You are just trying to prevent contaminants from getting in, while ideally venting excess CO2.

 

[madscientist451]

I've understood that I should be really carefull with the priming sugar to avoid too much gas in the bottles.

When i'm harvesting yeast i've understood that I should not put the lid on tight when storing them in the fridge, but after how long can I thighten the lid?

Use an on-line priming calculator to determine how much priming sugar to use.
A good investment is a small scale that you can use to weigh out the priming sugar. Volume measurements of priming sugar will be inaccurate and will cause problems.
The same scale can be used to weigh out the hops. When following recipes, adding the right amount of hops at the right time is critical.
My scale cost about $20 and you can also weigh out grains up to about 4 lbs.
I use glass mason jars and plastic screw on containers that LME comes in, I just screw the lid on and haven't had problems. If you are worried, you can put them on lightly and then tighten them down after they've been in the fridge for a week or so.
When you take the chilled yeast out of the fridge and let it warm up its a good idea to loosen the lid because C02 will be released as it warms up.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

Use an on-line priming calculator to determine how much priming sugar to use.
A good investment is a small scale that you can use to weigh out the priming sugar. Volume measurements of priming sugar will be inaccurate and will cause problems.
The same scale can be used to weigh out the hops. When following recipes, adding the right amount of hops at the right time is critical.
My scale cost about $20 and you can also weigh out grains up to about 4 lbs.
I use glass mason jars and plastic screw on containers that LME comes in, I just screw the lid on and haven't had problems. If you are worried, you can put them on lightly and then tighten them down after they've been in the fridge for a week or so.
When you take the chilled yeast out of the fridge and let it warm up its a good idea to loosen the lid because C02 will be released as it warms up.

Thank's I will look into such a calculator! I already have quite a precise small scale 0.1gr measurements. up to 500grams. I will keep the lid on loose and only tighten when I wont use it for a longer time after about a week in the fridge.

 

[RM-MN]

Thank's I will look into such a calculator! I already have quite a precise small scale 0.1gr measurements. up to 500grams. I will keep the lid on loose and only tighten when I wont use it for a longer time after about a week in the fridge.

Saved you the bother. http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

 

[RM-MN]

I've understood that I should be really carefull with the priming sugar to avoid too much gas in the bottles.

When i'm harvesting yeast i've understood that I should not put the lid on tight when storing them in the fridge, but after how long can I thighten the lid?

The lid never has to be tightened unless you are worried about spilling the yeast. Just spin the ring down until it touches the lid so the lid can't come off. That will let it vent anytime it wants.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

The lid never has to be tightened unless you are worried about spilling the yeast. Just spin the ring down until it touches the lid so the lid can't come off. That will let it vent anytime it wants.

Thanks I understand now, I was worried it might go bad without a lid.

 

[bwible]

After the best brew pot you can afford (they are not cheap) buying or building a wort chiller should be your second investment.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

I already looked into a wort chiller and I am trying to decide for a plate chiller or immersion.

 

[chris_the_goat]

I already looked into a wort chiller and I am trying to decide for a plate chiller or immersion.

Think about your future brewing plans for this one. While you are doing 1 gallon batches, an ice bath will work fine.

I have an immersion chiller and would recommend them. They are simple to use and work quickly (especially with cold tap water). They get sanitized by sitting in the boiling wort. One benefit is that you can leave the cold break material behind in the kettle. There are arguments on whether this is necessary, but you have the option with immersion.

Plate and counterflow chillers are great for big batches. They are the fastest way to cool a very large volume of wort. They usually get sanitized by pumping the boiling wort through them. People who make 10+ gallons of beer usually have pumps around, I do not. I can't imagine it working well with a 1 gallon batch. Also, since the wort is chilled on the way to the fermenter, all the cold break ends up there as well.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

Think about your future brewing plans for this one. While you are doing 1 gallon batches, an ice bath will work fine.

I have an immersion chiller and would recommend them. They are simple to use and work quickly (especially with cold tap water). They get sanitized by sitting in the boiling wort. One benefit is that you can leave the cold break material behind in the kettle. There are arguments on whether this is necessary, but you have the option with immersion.

Plate and counterflow chillers are great for big batches. They are the fastest way to cool a very large volume of wort. They usually get sanitized by pumping the boiling wort through them. People who make 10+ gallons of beer usually have pumps around, I do not. I can't imagine it working well with a 1 gallon batch. Also, since the wort is chilled on the way to the fermenter, all the cold break ends up there as well.

After some time I would like to. Mag bigger batches but never more than 5 gal I think, so immersion should be the way to go then?

 

[chris_the_goat]

That is what I recommend. They work great for a five gallon and can be used on smaller batches, too. I have done 2-5 gallon batches with mine. If you are buying one, make sure the coil starts at the bottom (some have one ring and then a few inches before the coil). This will let you use it for smaller batches, too.

 

[Dutch_Brewer]

That is what I recommend. They work great for a five gallon and can be used on smaller batches, too. I have done 2-5 gallon batches with mine. If you are buying one, make sure the coil starts at the bottom (some have one ring and then a few inches before the coil). This will let you use it for smaller batches, too.

I found one of ss and one of copper. It seems to be double the price, is that worth it?