IPA hop schedule

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NewkyBrown

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Looking at brewing a West Coast IPA with traditional hops. I have lots of C hops, chinook, centennial, cascade and Columbus.
What hop schedule and quantities of these hops do you recommend?
Thanks!
 
Do you dank? :D

Assuming 5.25 to the fermentor:
1 oz CTZ @60
.5 oz cascade, .5 oz centennial, .5 oz chinook @15
.5 oz cascade, .5 oz centennial, .5 oz chinook @5
1 oz cascade, 1 oz centennial, 1 oz chinook dry hop

88 IBUs.

I used the same schedule but using Chinook for the CTZ, with Amarillo, Cascade and El Dorado. Pretty darned tasty...

Cheers!
 
Do you dank? :D

Assuming 5.25 to the fermentor:
1 oz CTZ @60
.5 oz cascade, .5 oz centennial, .5 oz chinook @15
.5 oz cascade, .5 oz centennial, .5 oz chinook @5
1 oz cascade, 1 oz centennial, 1 oz chinook dry hop

88 IBUs.

I used the same schedule but using Chinook for the CTZ, with Amarillo, Cascade and El Dorado. Pretty darned tasty...

Cheers!

Looks good thanks.
I don’t mind dank and bitter after all the neipas ive been drinking recently.
I’ll enjoy an old school ipa lol.
 
Looks good thanks.
I don’t mind dank and bitter after all the neipas ive been drinking recently.
I’ll enjoy an old school ipa lol.
Be careful. I too am use to drinking NEIPAS and now 80 ibus is pretty bitter to me but a few years ago I wouldn’t have even noticed lol
 
Looks good thanks.
I don’t mind dank and bitter after all the neipas ive been drinking recently.
I’ll enjoy an old school ipa lol.

You're welcome - and that's exactly why I brewed this: I've been keeping three neipa's on tap for 18 months straight (along with kolsch, saison and imperial stout) and decided I needed a drier, non-juice-bomb pale on tap.

Not like it's been forever or anything since The IBU Wars...but I do find myself drifting back a handful of years...to less hazy times...

Cheers! :D
 
I like the hopping schedule here. What’s everybody using for grain bills on a West Coast IPA’s these days? I’m always messing with mine. Trying to settle on something nice. Sorry, a little off topic.
 
I like the hopping schedule here. What’s everybody using for grain bills on a West Coast IPA’s these days? I’m always messing with mine. Trying to settle on something nice. Sorry, a little off topic.

Everyone probably has different ways but in my IPA I use pale malt 2 row , munich light and crystal 10.
 
Single addition at about 10 minutes seems to work well for me. Plus a dry hop charge or two later of course. Keep it simple, that's my motto. Numerous hop additions just don't seem that valuable. You want bitterness, flavor, and aroma? You'll get all that if you use 4-5 oz in the last 10 minutes or so of the boil.
 
Some good ideas here thanks.
I may keep the IBUs under 70.
2-row, Munich and maybe some light Crystal seems the norm.
Tons of late and dry hop but I will keep some mid-boil additions.
 
Some good ideas here thanks.
I may keep the IBUs under 70.
2-row, Munich and maybe some light Crystal seems the norm.
Tons of late and dry hop but I will keep some mid-boil additions.
There’s a lot of science out there now about the mid boil addition those around the 30 minute mark. Unless you’re strictly looking for ibus, I’d avoid it.

Now 15-20 min,yes you’ll get some character with your ibus as well. I’d personally would hit 15 ibus under my intended ibus in boil. Hit 3-5oz whirlpool and 2-3 oz dryhop for a west coat ipa and you’ll hit your intended ibus and profile.
 
I'm pretty sure that hop schedule would nearly erase the line between WC and NE IPAs :D

Cheers!
I like the schedule you put out a lot. As of late, other than the ibus, I’ve realized the hops used seems to be more of the factor if it’s comes off like as a tradition west coast ipa or a NE. If I recall correctly, most Pliny clones call for a 1lb of hops in a 5.5 gallon batch
 
I dont do 30 min additions hardly if at all by my memory. If for bittering purposes I would think if a 60 min addition of a hop turns out too bitter you can drop the amount or move it to the 30 minute mark instead
 
I like the schedule you put out a lot. As of late, other than the ibus, I’ve realized the hops used seems to be more of the factor if it’s comes off like as a tradition west coast ipa or a NE. If I recall correctly, most Pliny clones call for a 1lb of hops in a 5.5 gallon batch

Of course you're correct, juice bombs always employ mega-character hops known for their fruity punch. But they also use epic amounts of them post-boil in the kettle. All the pre-neipa years I was brewing pales and ipas I never used post-boil kettle hops.

I started brewing at the same time Amarillo (VGXP01) became the latest fad but it's not in the same stadium as Citra, Mosaic, El Dorado, Simcoe, et al wrt huge citrus character. I've played with Amarillo, Cascade and Chinook for New England style brews and quickly found I need to use verging on impractical amounts of them to almost reach the same face-punch. Tasty, but not the same...

Cheers!
 
Of course you're correct, juice bombs always employ mega-character hops known for their fruity punch. But they also use epic amounts of them post-boil in the kettle. All the pre-neipa years I was brewing pales and ipas I never used post-boil kettle hops.

I started brewing at the same time Amarillo (VGXP01) became the latest fad but it's not in the same stadium as Citra, Mosaic, El Dorado, Simcoe, et al wrt huge citrus character. I've played with Amarillo, Cascade and Chinook for New England style brews and quickly found I need to use verging on impractical amounts of them to almost reach the same face-punch. Tasty, but not the same...

Cheers!

Nobody puts Amarillo in the corner ;)
 
Do you dank? :D

Assuming 5.25 to the fermentor:
1 oz CTZ @60
.5 oz cascade, .5 oz centennial, .5 oz chinook @15
.5 oz cascade, .5 oz centennial, .5 oz chinook @5
1 oz cascade, 1 oz centennial, 1 oz chinook dry hop

88 IBUs.

I used the same schedule but using Chinook for the CTZ, with Amarillo, Cascade and El Dorado. Pretty darned tasty...

Cheers!

Brewed this last night and used your hop schedule. Thanks. Just added some Amarillo at 30mins for additional interest. I’ll update in a couple of weeks when it’s finished.
IMG_3660.JPG

IMG_3660.JPG
 
Not to highjack this thread, but I have been thinking about hop schedules the last couple days. Instead of making a new, totally related thread I thought I would drop in here.

I am making an effort to go back and brew only proven recipes for styles that I prefer after a couple less than stellar DIY recipes. I know it's a bit outdated, but I have been looking to Brewing Classic Styles for many recipes. It, along with some other older recipes have many examples of multiple hop additions throughout the 60 minute boil.

In the year 2020 is it not safe to say that there's no need for anything more than (depending on style) a bittering charge at 60, flameout/whirlpool addition, and (again if the style calls for it) a dry hop charge?

If you disagree or have science as to why this may not be the case, I look forward to the response as I am an intermediate home brewer who is always looking for more knowledge.
 
To be honest, I’m quite haphazard when it comes to recipes (and brewing in general) but have enough experience to make decent beer. I think there’s too much thinking goes on usually. For example, I’m pretty sure if you made two identical ipa’s with a huge whirlpool charge, with and without a 30 min addition, I doubt you notice much difference.
 
To be honest, I’m quite haphazard when it comes to recipes (and brewing in general) but have enough experience to make decent beer. I think there’s too much thinking goes on usually. For example, I’m pretty sure if you made two identical ipa’s with a huge whirlpool charge, with and without a 30 min addition, I doubt you notice much difference.

Depends on what hop and how much . For instance I punched in 1 oz of citra @ 30 and it gave me approx 28ibu and .5 gave me about 18ibu
 
Weighing boil vs WP additions must consider WP temperature if IBU contributions matter. I do my WP additions at 160°F, which is a fair bit below the temperature range where AA isomerization is significant. So any boil addition is going to contribute more IBUs than the entirety of the WP additions (which for neipas are often 6 times as much or more by weight).

But I'm going for everything other than IBUs in the whirlpool, hence the low temperature to preserve the volatiles I'm trying to capture.

All that blather said, for wcipas I go simple - and what I'd consider "classic". Early IBUs, late flavor/aroma, zero post boil additions, and moderate dry hopping. I've been doing a ton of neipas over the last two years and need some differentiation :)

Cheers!
 
If you disagree or have science as to why this may not be the case, I look forward to the response as I am an intermediate home brewer who is always looking for more knowledge.
I will suggest studying the book The New IPA with an emphasis on understanding "hop compounds".

Perhaps its observations like this (mentioned above in this topic) ...
the hops used seems to be more of the factor if it’s comes off like as a tradition west coast ipa or a NE
... that lead to curiosity which lead to 'experiments' which lead to the science that many of us are currently look for.
 
To be honest, I’m quite haphazard when it comes to recipes (and brewing in general) but have enough experience to make decent beer. I think there’s too much thinking goes on usually. For example, I’m pretty sure if you made two identical ipa’s with a huge whirlpool charge, with and without a 30 min addition, I doubt you notice much difference.

Too, Brulosphy did an Xbeerment with and without a hopstand, and results were inconclusive. Those that could tell the difference, under 50% of tasters, were split 50/50 on the beers they preferred. It is therefore unusual how many people recommend a hopstand, as it seems just another 20 odd minutes for nasties to get in your wort. A big concern in my decrepit garage.
 
There’s a lot of science out there now about the mid boil addition those around the 30 minute mark. Unless you’re strictly looking for ibus, I’d avoid it.

Now 15-20 min,yes you’ll get some character with your ibus as well. I’d personally would hit 15 ibus under my intended ibus in boil. Hit 3-5oz whirlpool and 2-3 oz dryhop for a west coat ipa and you’ll hit your intended ibus and profile.

Any reason you go heavier on the WP than DH for west coast IPAs? I've been doing 3-4 oz WP and 5-8 oz DH for both WC and NEIPAs, but I definitely have a higher success rate with NEIPAs.
 
Any reason you go heavier on the WP than DH for west coast IPAs? I've been doing 3-4 oz WP and 5-8 oz DH for both WC and NEIPAs, but I definitely have a higher success rate with NEIPAs.
It’s really just personal preference I think. I really enjoy the hotside hop character in west coast ipas. That rich resinous character that comes through is what i enjoy about it, especially since I try to finish my west coast ipas 1.008-1.010, helps that note pop and keeps it sharp (in a good way)
 
I’m really fascinated by what causes the difference between West Coast and New England IPAs.

Aroma: Dank/pine v. Juicy/Fruity
Appearance: Clear v. Orange juice
Taste: Assertive bitterness v. Pillowy soft mouthfeel

Other than bittering hops, the hop schedules are similar (NE maybe heavier dry hopping). Of course grain bill (Crystal v flaked malts), water treatment (sulfate to chloride), and hop selection (C hops v new varietals) are typically different.

Makes me wonder if anyone has made a dank/pine NEIPA or a west coast IPA with fruity hops.
 
I’m really fascinated by what causes the difference between West Coast and New England IPAs.

Aroma: Dank/pine v. Juicy/Fruity
Appearance: Clear v. Orange juice
Taste: Assertive bitterness v. Pillowy soft mouthfeel

Other than bittering hops, the hop schedules are similar (NE maybe heavier dry hopping). Of course grain bill (Crystal v flaked malts), water treatment (sulfate to chloride), and hop selection (C hops v new varietals) are typically different.

Makes me wonder if anyone has made a dank/pine NEIPA or a west coast IPA with fruity hops.
I think honestly the biggest difference between west coast and NEIPA are bitterness and mouthfeel. West coast much more dry and crisp with assertive bitterness and NEIPAS soft/fluffy mouthfeel with very low perceived bitterness.

There are a bunch of dank/piney NEIPAS
Treehouse - Sap (chinook heavy series)
Bissell Bro - Substance (dank as hell Columbus heavy)
Burial - Surf Wax (pine and citrus pith)
Hill farmstead - Double Riwaka
Trillium - mosaic cutting tiles (dank earthy mosaic)
Finnback - they actually make a bunch, just check the hops listed
Fox Farm - Layers (dank citrus pith Strata)
Rushing Duck - War Elephant
Barrier - Greenroom
Alchemist - Crusher

For west coast beers I feel like all of them are juicer now but are still dry/crisp with an aggressive bitterness
 
I think honestly the biggest difference between west coast and NEIPA are bitterness and mouthfeel. West coast much more dry and crisp with assertive bitterness and NEIPAS soft/fluffy mouthfeel with very low perceived bitterness.

There are a bunch of dank/piney NEIPAS
Treehouse - Sap (chinook heavy series)
Bissell Bro - Substance (dank as hell Columbus heavy)
Burial - Surf Wax (pine and citrus pith)
Hill farmstead - Double Riwaka
Trillium - mosaic cutting tiles (dank earthy mosaic)
Finnback - they actually make a bunch, just check the hops listed
Fox Farm - Layers (dank citrus pith Strata)
Rushing Duck - War Elephant
Barrier - Greenroom
Alchemist - Crusher

For west coast beers I feel like all of them are juicer now but are still dry/crisp with an aggressive bitterness

I definitely agree with that last statement. The bitterness is there, but compared to old school IPAs that are piney and full of crystal malt there is much more hop aroma in many modern example of a WC IPA.

PS Surf Wax is marketed as a WCIPA, but is definitely of the “juicier” varieties. Apologies from a Burial Snob lol
 
I definitely agree with that last statement. The bitterness is there, but compared to old school IPAs that are piney and full of crystal malt there is much more hop aroma in many modern example of a WC IPA.

PS Surf Wax is marketed as a WCIPA, but is definitely of the “juicier” varieties. Apologies from a Burial Snob lol
Never realized it was Labeled west coast. Def not very dry. Solid beer though. Guess that just helps prove that wcipas are getting juicier lol
 
So if you added 20% flaked oats and high chloride ratio to a WCIPA recipe, would you end up with NEIPA mouthfeel?
 
So if you added 20% flaked oats and high chloride ratio to a WCIPA recipe, would you end up with NEIPA mouthfeel?
Pretty much as long as you had a semi high dryhop. You’d have a beer very similar to Singlecut Beersmiths most likely - Higher ibu, NEIPA
 
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