I think I'm going to want a 20gallon one when you get it all set up. I'm going to need an extra two 1/2 coupler for the the HEX. What do you charge per extra coupling?
I think I'm going to want a 20gallon one when you get it all set up. I'm going to need an extra two 1/2 coupler for the the HEX. What do you charge per extra coupling?
The closer it is to plug and play the more interested I am. Electricity is an area where I get nervous with diy
THIS. I would also be interested in as plug-n-play a system as y'all could create. Although I'm guessing I brew on a smaller scale (still on 5 gallon batches) than most.
BTW: The 6-gal aluminum kettle arrived, and the partial-mash saison from it;'s first brew is happily churning away in the basement. Many thanks, the kettle looks like it'll work great for smaller batches on my glass stovetop.
If you could come up with a nice housing for the element to shield the wires/connections from liquid that would be "plug n play" enough for 99% of people. Let them simply connect 3 wires to a H/D extension cord and just about anyone can do that. Something that easily affixes to cover the element base yet is 99.9% water-tight. Perhaps if the coupler were also threaded on the outside then a PVC cap with a cord-grip could thread right on, voila.
There are many easy ways to cover the connection from JB Weld and a PVC coupling to more elaborate electrical boxes to simple heat shrink tubing.
I'd definitely agree that the BK just needs to be on/off and powerful enough to get a rolling boil going. That can be really simple. However, I'd think you'd want your HLT to have a bit more sophistication since strike temperature matters. If you're recirculating, that kind of control becomes even more important.Something that I think many people don't understand is that having electric elements doesn't REQUIRE a sophisticated controller, etc. Mine are simply elements with glorified extension cords running to the wall outlets. Yeah, I don't have precision control, but I'm using them for HLT and BK...why do I need control there again? I've brewed a dozen batches with this setup and the selling point for me was that I could do it in the basement, which I can't do with propane and no stove is gonna heat 10g of wort.
It's not as intimidating as it seems, is all I'm saying.
I'd definitely agree that the BK just needs to be on/off and powerful enough to get a rolling boil going. That can be really simple. However, I'd think you'd want your HLT to have a bit more sophistication since strike temperature matters. If you're recirculating, that kind of control becomes even more important.
Even if you didn't want to make it completely assembled, a "kit" that had the parts all included and suggested assembly directions would make me bite, then if it isn't wired right and I burn my house down it would be on me i am assuming. Alternately a suggested addon list with items that are also available separately from your site that I could add in for the same shipment, and said directions would work for me. I just hate going through 5 different vendors, hoping that when I can't find the right piece that my guess at a like part will still work, and I usually give up, especially on electrical things. This is the main reason I never made a brutus 10 (no interest in trying to make the control panel and nobody sells reasonable priced models) and haven't done electric brewing yet (getting the parts for the element are too dicey for me).
Sorry to muddy-up your thread, Spike. Kudos on the coupler though. I had to drill another hole in my HLT for the ground wire...something I wasn't happy about.
Idiot question on that electric coupler.
Can that be welded on from the outside only?
I've built my own RIMS, I'm super handy, but I'm not a welder. I've been thinking of converting an uncut keg into a still. I was wondering if I popped a hole in a keg with our taking the top off, if that coupler could be welded in place. I know nothing about welding so the answer might be no. If its yes, I could build a sweet electric still.
Any advice is appreciated.
Idiot question on that electric coupler.
Can that be welded on from the outside only?
I've built my own RIMS, I'm super handy, but I'm not a welder. I've been thinking of converting an uncut keg into a still. I was wondering if I popped a hole in a keg with our taking the top off, if that coupler could be welded in place. I know nothing about welding so the answer might be no. If its yes, I could build a sweet electric still.
Any advice is appreciated.
If you could come up with a nice housing for the element to shield the wires/connections from liquid that would be "plug n play" enough for 99% of people. Let them simply connect 3 wires to a H/D extension cord and just about anyone can do that. Something that easily affixes to cover the element base yet is 99.9% water-tight. Perhaps if the coupler were also threaded on the outside then a PVC cap with a cord-grip could thread right on, voila.
***BIG Update***
Camco 02963 5500W 240V water heater element installed
Heater element screwed in with gasket
Would be better to place the element connections on the inside of the box and let the element face make the seal. Attach the back of the element to the box. That way if there is a leak it won't be inside the box with the connections
Well guys it's not looking good for the welded electric coupler. After discussing it with a lawyer friend they advised against it because of the high risk. So it looks like the months of machining, our planning and your planning might be in vein. We would love to see this happen but UL ratings, insurance, etc make this project very unappealing. It only takes one person to get hurt and we're hurting.
Sorry guys....
What if I only want a 1"coupler welded on, I have a really big pump.
This is certainly bad news. So you can't simply offer the option of having a threaded coupler (that happens to have a little threaded screw hole in the side) welded to the side or back of the kettle for the brewer to use as s/he wishes?!?
What about an option of including a welded ferrule for the tri-clamp adapters.
Kal is somehow able to sell the element and mounting box in kit form as well as ready-made. It's rather obvious what this is intended for: installation thru the wall of a kettle full of liquid.
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits
Thanks for trying so hard.
Keith
can you do a kettle with just an extra hole in it, i may then choose to add any sort of innocent weldless fitting into it that i wish (i just dont have the tools to make my own hole)?
That sucks for your business. What about putting the coupling on there, and not specifying what it's intended to be used for?
Yeah, maybe have the options for the 1" coupling but take the grounding lug off there....I think the grounding lug would be kind of hard to talk around....
Well guys it's not looking good for the welded electric coupler. After discussing it with a lawyer friend they advised against it because of the high risk. So it looks like the months of machining, our planning and your planning might be in vein. We would love to see this happen but UL ratings, insurance, etc make this project very unappealing. It only takes one person to get hurt and we're hurting.
Sorry guys....
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