I'm losing my mind over this

[c3hutson]

First, what processes are you referring to?

Second, if I use my tap water, dark beers come out fine but light beers don't taste right. What should I do if I don't modify the water profile - brew only stouts and porters?

Sounds like my city water in Kalamazoo. Tons of residual alkalinity. The dark grains get the pH closer to what is optimal for the mash/fermentation. For light beers, cut your water 50% with RO water and adjust down to 5.2-5.4 pH with lactic acid.




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[Hoppity]

Have you bottled any yet? Maybe I missed something, but it could help isolate the problem.

 

[LovesIPA]

Yes I bottled part of a batch a few days ago. Haven't tried one yet.


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[WayFrae]

is the RO water you tested fresh from the machine or is it RO water you had left over from a previous batch? The reason I ask is they probably fixed the machines since that lawsuit so the beer you made previously could have had the bad RO water.

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[MrHadack]

Was a bit under the weather over the weekend so I'm just getting caught up again now.

LovesIPA, Looks like those Glacier machines might be clearing up based on the test you did with the TDS meter. Though, like you said, TDS doesn't pick up on a few things. Regardless, I'm close to feeling like we can rule out the water. But not just yet.

As for the grain bill and additions you posted: all that looks perfectly fine to me. After clearing up why you used all that gypsum in one of that batches (bad advice from someone) I know you have all that figured out so don't think there is any concern about your additions any longer.

So so far we can rule out recipe, water, and additions.

Facinerous, nice input. That thread certainly includes a lot of the buzz words used to describe the issue here:
-Happens only after the gas is added in the keg
-Undrinkable harshness, bitter / sour

LovesIPA, based on the above, do you think we should try carbing each keg differently once we get to that stage?

 

[LovesIPA]

Can you please take a look at this post I made in the other I made about possibly having too high of a mash efficiency? I am tempted to ask the mods (do we have any mods?) to merge the two threads because they are basically on the same topic now.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/efficiency-too-high-464223/#post5974272

I listed every batch I brewed since last September and the results. Maybe one of you detectives can find the pattern.

 

[LovesIPA]

Was a bit under the weather over the weekend so I'm just getting caught up again now.

I was beginning to worry about you... you're my shining beacon of hope at this point! lol

LovesIPA, Looks like those Glacier machines might be clearing up based on the test you did with the TDS meter. Though, like you said, TDS doesn't pick up on a few things. Regardless, I'm close to feeling like we can rule out the water. But not just yet.

In the "list of batches" that I just linked to, I want to point out that I brewed three essentially identical versions of the same Amber ale recipe. Two came out fine, the third had the off-flavor.

As for the grain bill and additions you posted: all that looks perfectly fine to me. After clearing up why you used all that gypsum in one of that batches (bad advice from someone) I know you have all that figured out so don't think there is any concern about your additions any longer.

That's awesome. The first three pages of this thread were going back and forth over "loading up the water with crazy salt additions".

LovesIPA, based on the above, do you think we should try carbing each keg differently once we get to that stage?

I assume you mean force carbing vs. natural carbing? If so, it's going to be awfully difficult to naturally carb 2.5 gallons of beer in a 5 gallon keg. Too much headspace.

 

[LovesIPA]

Also, what do you think about using RO water for this batch if I check it with the TDS meter?

 

[Yooper]

Since we can't play nice, and this thread requires moderator intervention daily, we're done here.

Remember the Golden Rule, folks. Thanks.