My LHBS sells Brewer's Best kits, their Hefeweizen kit contains LME. I'm going to pick one up this week and brew it up next Saturday.
Now I have to go read up on how to brew with extract!
Now I have to go read up on how to brew with extract!
I used to crush super fine but a half dozen batches ago I opened the gap so it just grabs a credit card. Since then my efficiency has been steady and predictable at 77% and the flavors of my finished beers are much cleaner.Just for kicks, how do you mill your grain. How fine? What's the gap width, for the wheat especially?
Forget kits, especially LME kits. Freshness issues.
One of our club brewers brews a very good Hefe, mainly for his wife, and swears by using 100% DME instead of all-grain.
If you want to try extract, you can buy Wheat DME. Briess' is 65% Wheat, 35% Barley. That's what he uses.
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_CBWBavarianWheatDME.pdf
With extract use distilled water. (unless RO water is mineral free, that is... I’m still not clear on that)The weizen kit from my LHBS only includes LME and hops anyway, not much of a kit so I'll pick up some DME instead, thanks for the input. To rule out water variables I can try a very simple, minimalist adjustment to my RO, any suggestions? Also, any suggestions for optimal OG?
I'm really getting into the idea of trying extract, it just eliminates so many variables. My end goal here is to produce and enjoy a keg of good hefeweizen; mastering an AG method to get there is really a secondary objective, one I can focus on after I redeem myself in the eyes of my frau.
I can't see crushing super fine causing the lack of banana flavor.I used to crush super fine but a half dozen batches ago I opened the gap so it just grabs a credit card. Since then my efficiency has been steady and predictable at 77% and the flavors of my finished beers are much cleaner.
For brewing purposes they are the same. Although it may vary depending on the mineral content of the water source, RO through a proper working membrane may contain up to 12 ppm of minerals (TDS meter), usually less. You won't notice the difference.With extract use distilled water. (unless RO water is mineral free, that is... I’m still not clear on that)
Well as I BIAB I used to crush really fine, no banana, and now I crush a little coarser but my efficiency stayed pretty much the same. My actual observation is that it went up from 75% to 77% but that doesn't make sense so I chalk it up to other variables, but in any case I can't see the coarser crush as causing the lack of banana. My latest batch contained 66% wheat malt and my cereal killer crushed it just fine, if it was crushed insufficiently I would have expected a noticeable drop in efficiency but in fact it turned out to be a bit higher than expected as I overshot my target by a few points.I can't see crushing super fine causing the lack of banana flavor.
I was more thinking if you crush too coarsely you may not get enough extraction from the wheat. Wheat has much smaller kernels than barley, and most may pass through uncrushed. I've seen and tasted those results (in other brewer's beers) from the rather coarse crush our venerable LHBS provides.
Now a credit card width gap is around 0.034" which is too coarse for wheat, IMO. I therefore re-adjust the mill to crush small kernel grain such as wheat and rye at their own, narrower gap of 0.025". Oat malt even a tad tighter. I use a converted cooler mash tun with a CPVC manifold. No recirculation, batch sparge 2x.
Hey thanks, never thought about it but the minerals from the mash would be included in the DME, wouldn't they? I'll just use straight RO, in my case it still has ~7 ppm dissolved minerals but that's close enough for brewing.With extract use distilled water. (unless RO water is mineral free, that is... I’m still not clear on that)
When brewing with RO or Distilled Water and Malt Extracts, the Extract should provide most of the minerals needed for proper fermentation performance. But the ion balance in the Malt Extract is typically moderate. If the Brewer desires a specific flavor profile, additional Sulfate or Chloride containing minerals can be added to the brewing water. The Water Adjustment sheet can help the Brewer assess how much of these minerals should be added to the brewing water. |
Yeah, just about. It runs $14 for a 3 pound bag at my LHBS. No more than regular all-barley DME.Holy crap DME is EXPENSIVE. I could just about buy a whole sack of base malt for what it will cost to brew 6 gallons @1.060 with extract.
Do you know whether they adjust mash pH? I'm really shocked at this, I expected a super advanced, high efficiency mashing process if for no other reason than just to maximize efficiency and profit. But then again, the salts ain't free. I'm coming to realize that water adjustments likely have little impact on the final product including the production of isoamyl acetate.From Bru'n Water by Martin Brungard:
It turns out that you can't necessarily rely on the extract manufacturer to take care of the mineral additions. I checked with Williams Brewing and was told "no salt or other water additives were used during the mashing process of our liquid malt extracts." and "It is California tap water with nothing added." I've read similar things about others but can't remember specifics. So I think you can benefit from experimenting with salt additions, but it amounts to fine tuning.
When brewing with RO or Distilled Water and Malt Extracts, the Extract should provide most of the minerals needed for proper fermentation performance. But the ion balance in the Malt Extract is typically moderate. If the Brewer desires a specific flavor profile, additional Sulfate or Chloride containing minerals can be added to the brewing water. The Water Adjustment sheet can help the Brewer assess how much of these minerals should be added to the brewing water.
Yes, this is in relation to using calcium to bring out maltiness and gypsum for more hop character (keeping it elementary for brevity’s sake) When purchasing LME OR DME we buy malt not beer add water. Though come to think of it it would be nice if a kit came with salts to make the correct water profile. With that said, my extract brews were improved by using distilled water, rather than filtered tap.Do you know whether they adjust mash pH? I'm really shocked at this, I expected a super advanced, high efficiency mashing process if for no other reason than just to maximize efficiency and profit. But then again, the salts ain't free. I'm coming to realize that water adjustments likely have little impact on the final product including the production of isoamyl acetate.
Also, the solution to my problem is probably something stupid simple, and we're all just thinking too damned hard!!
I have made two weizen beers in the past and was unhappy with both. I think my issue was similar to yours, with no real banana prevalent. At the time I was BIABing.Well as I BIAB I used to crush really fine, no banana, and now I crush a little coarser but my efficiency stayed pretty much the same. My actual observation is that it went up from 75% to 77% but that doesn't make sense so I chalk it up to other variables, but in any case I can't see the coarser crush as causing the lack of banana. My latest batch contained 66% wheat malt and my cereal killer crushed it just fine, if it was crushed insufficiently I would have expected a noticeable drop in efficiency but in fact it turned out to be a bit higher than expected as I overshot my target by a few points.
well known and respected brewer of saisons in socal area once explained to me that he couldnt get them the way he wanted them until he did an atmospheric/full open ferment. no blowoff. not the same yeast, but if that works for saison.....I use a fermonster with a blowoff tube in just a bit of starsan. I understand that is not truly "open" but the miniscule amount of backpressure can't be more than the day to day fluctuation in barometric pressure due to weather changes.
Next.
This sounds like a real possibility! I must have read the same article, because since that time I've looked at my recirculating cooling method with suspicion. At that time I was chasing down problems I was having with a bitter, husky, grainy off flavor that plagued many batches until I figured out that my mill gap was set too tight. I have wondered whether it is worth trying an immersion chiller just to see how things might change.I have made two weizen beers in the past and was unhappy with both. I think my issue was similar to yours, with no real banana prevalent. At the time I was BIABing.
I remember reading somewhere that the banana flavour is suppressed from a turbid wort. The turbidity of a BIAB wort is usually off the charts. It certainly was for mine when I was making them.
I have since switched to 3V and get crystal clear wort into the kettle but was so put off making weizen that I have not tried again since.
Saison being a farmhouse style, that really makes perfect sense. I have a packet of Belle Saison and I might try an open ferment with just a towel over it to keep bugs and dust from falling in. A while back I saw some photos here on HBT of a Bavarian brewery where they were fermenting weissbier in wide, open-top vessels, I just don't know if I'm brave enough to try that one myself. Their brewery wasn't sterile to be sure, but the abundance of yeast everywhere likely just outnumber any invasive yeast or mold by such a great degree that they do not to pose a threat to the fermenting beer.well known and respected brewer of saisons in socal area once explained to me that he couldnt get them the way he wanted them until he did an atmospheric/full open ferment. no blowoff. not the same yeast, but if that works for saison.....
The two weizens I made definitely had a weird grainy, husky off flavour I did not enjoy. I’m not sure what you mean by using an immersion chiller to reduce turbidity. I believe the off flavour lies in the boiling of a turbid wort.This sounds like a real possibility! I must have read the same article, because since that time I've looked at my recirculating cooling method with suspicion. At that time I was chasing down problems I was having with a bitter, husky, grainy off flavor that plagued many batches until I figured out that my mill gap was set too tight. I have wondered whether it is worth trying an immersion chiller just to see how things might change.
THANK YOU!
I wonder if the reason many extract weizens work well is because they don’t have to worry about turbidity and astringency from the wheat grains.I went through the same struggles also. Last few attempts were not perfect but had more banana. I shoot for 5.45 PH (lessens sourness), pitch yeast at 53F and let free rise and hold at 72F for duration. My recipe had 70% wheat and WLP300 yeast. I laughed when I read your list of things you tried only because I did the same still looking for answers. If you have the book Designing Great Beers, Ray Daniels states most weiss beer entered in competitions use extract (not encouraging for us all grain brewers).
So I need to filter the wort on its way to the brew kettle? That means adding a vessel to my system. I wonder if there is a way to use my pump to filter the wort after pulling the bag. I would think that might take a long time, instead maybe draw it off into buckets until the kettle is empty then rinse it out before adding the wort back in? I guess at least sanotation wouldn't be a problem since this is pre-boil.The two weizens I made definitely had a weird grainy, husky off flavour I did not enjoy. I’m not sure what you mean by using an immersion chiller to reduce turbidity. I believe the off flavour lies in the boiling of a turbid wort.
Hm, I honestly don't understand why you wouldn't get that banana flavour. WY 3068 is a solid, balanced yeast (unlike WB06, which is not even really a Hefeweizen yeast...!).
If you can find a bottle of "Gutmann" (a brewery), you could culture up the yeast from the sediment (the bottles contain lots of viable yeast). It produces a ton of banana. But, given that it's a relatively small brewery, it might not be available where you live.
One thing some German homebrewers do to get more pronounced banana flavours is the so-called "Maltaseverfahren", where you basically mash twice, adding a part of the grist and water only after the first run.
Here's a description in German Maltaseverfahren
With the temperature curve, it should be intelligible, but I can also try and translate if you'd like me to.
I should note, however, that others have had mixed results with this method: some praise it, some have been disappointed. But it might be worth a shot if you're so desperate for banana.
He's tried the best yeast. The Wyeast 3068 is the Weihenstepan weizen yeast. Have you tried the 30° C rule? Pitching temp °C + ferment temp °C = 30° C. I use to brew banana bombs but now I brew them balanced for competition.Besides no banana flavor, is it good beer? If it is still good drinkable beer, no reason not to keep trying. Not a weissbier expert, but I suspect there might be another yeast you could try.
At what gravity do you stop collecting wort? Don't go lower than 1.010 and a bit above this say 1.015 will help with a smoother bier. Also, how much rice hulls do you use if any?So I need to filter the wort on its way to the brew kettle? That means adding a vessel to my system. I wonder if there is a way to use my pump to filter the wort after pulling the bag. I would think that might take a long time, instead maybe draw it off into buckets until the kettle is empty then rinse it out before adding the wort back in? I guess at least sanotation wouldn't be a problem since this is pre-boil.
Would a standard, household-type filter with polyester sediment cartridge do the job?
You definitely want to Whirlpool to leave as much trub behind as possible. I also use good German pils and wheat malts.The guys at my LHBS have tried it and are puzzled about what the problem might be. Year before last I brought my whole system over there for a group brew session in the parking lot, and though I didn't brew a weissbier on that day the instructor checked out my setup and didn't see any problems with my process. Besides the instructor, I was the only other AG brewer who turned up that day, everyone else brewing extract batches so he spent most of the time watching me brew.
On a side note, the hefeweizen the instructor brews has the perfect balance of banana-clove and that intangible, elusive German-ness that takes me back to the years we spent living in southern Germany where we fell in love with the style, sipping fresh Hefeweizen in the hot summer sun.
Here are a few things I can think of that I haven't yet tried:
-Another type of fermenter, glass maybe? I ferment 6 gallon batches in 7 gallon plastic fermonsters
-Chilling with something other than my copper counterflow unit
-Higher end malts, I tend to use Avangard though I did a batch a while back with Bestmalz Heidelberg pils. Should I try floor malted Weyermann or something else?
-Intentionally underpitching; I either pitch a fresh activator pack or most recently a pouch of Lallemand MC dry yeast
-Combination underpitching with oxygenation as mentioned by @TheMadKing
-A different water profile than those listed above
-I own a pH meter but haven't yet started using it, depending mostly on the predictions by brewersfriend
-Due to my BIAB process, most or all break material ends up in the fermenter, should I filter or whirlpool to avoid that?
You could brew like a beginner brewer - don't aerate, no yeast nutrient, pitch warm, underpitch - do everything "wrong" from a healthy fermentation standpoint to really get that yeast stressed but multiplying like happy bunnies.
HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Hefeweizen - A New Hope v2.2
Author: Meee
Brew Method: BIAB
Style Name: Weissbier
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 6.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7.5 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.042
Efficiency: 77% (brew house)
Hop Utilization Multiplier: 1
STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.048
Final Gravity: 1.013
ABV (standard): 4.69%
IBU (tinseth): 19.16
SRM (ebcmorey): 9.44
Mash pH: 5.26
FERMENTABLES:
6 lb - Pale Wheat (55.9%)
3 lb - Golden Promise (28%)
0.4 lb - Melanoidin (3.7%)
0.33 lb - Acidulated Malt (3.1%)
1 lb - Dark Wheat (9.3%)
HOPS:
16 g - Mandarina Bavaria, Type: Pellet, AA: 9.5, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 16.87
6 g - Mandarina Bavaria, Type: Pellet, AA: 9.5, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 2.29
MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Strike, Temp: 131 F, Time: 10 min, Amount: 8.5 gal,
2) Temperature, Temp: 145 F, Time: 30 min
3) Temperature, Temp: 161 F, Time: 30 min
OTHER INGREDIENTS:
3 g - Calcium Chloride (dihydrate), Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
2 g - Epsom Salt, Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
4 g - Gypsum, Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
0.5 g - Baking Soda, Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
0.2 g - Table Salt, Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
YEAST:
Danstar - Munich Classic Wheat Beer Yeast
Starter: No
Form: Dry
Attenuation (custom): 73%
Flocculation: Low
Optimum Temp: 63 - 72 F
Fermentation Temp: 75 F
Pitch Rate: 0.35 (M cells / ml / deg P)
PRIMING:
CO2 Level: 4.04 Volumes
TARGET WATER PROFILE:
Profile Name: Munich (decarbonated)
Ca2: 46.9
Mg2: 6
Na: 6.9
Cl: 48.7
SO4: 75.5
HCO3: 11.394
Water Notes:
I would suggest you either reduce your 10 min hop addition by a lot or ditch it altogether. I believe you are over-hopping in general, covering up the yeast and malt completely, particularly with the late hops and even your IBUs for bittering are too high for the style.
Please refer to Jamil's example:
https://byo.com/article/german-hefeweizen-style-profile/
Why do you think wheat malt should impart astringency and turbidity? Wheat malt is huskless and besides that extract weizens are made with extract that is made with a large portion of wheat malt in the grist, so why would they be any different from the AG version?I wonder if the reason many extract weizens work well is because they don’t have to worry about turbidity and astringency from the wheat grains.
Do you know whether they adjust mash pH?
That seems to be right. I should have included my original question to Williams for clarity: "I'm interested in optimizing the water chemistry for my brews when using Williams malt extracts. I brew some malty beers and some hoppy beers, and the water chemistry would be different for each of these. Can I assume that these products were mashed with minimal salt additions, and therefore add the normal amount of salts (specifically gypsum and CaCl), similar to what would be used in a mash?"Yes, this is in relation to using calcium to bring out maltiness and gypsum for more hop character (keeping it elementary for brevity’s sake)
You would then have hotside aeration to deal with. A gentle whirlpool should do it.So I need to filter the wort on its way to the brew kettle? That means adding a vessel to my system. I wonder if there is a way to use my pump to filter the wort after pulling the bag. I would think that might take a long time, instead maybe draw it off into buckets until the kettle is empty then rinse it out before adding the wort back in? I guess at least sanotation wouldn't be a problem since this is pre-boil.
Would a standard, household-type filter with polyester sediment cartridge do the job?
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