I'm about to give up.

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My LHBS sells Brewer's Best kits, their Hefeweizen kit contains LME. I'm going to pick one up this week and brew it up next Saturday.
Now I have to go read up on how to brew with extract! :p
 
Esters and clove will be from the acid rest. Banana will come from under pitching your yeast. No starter, one packet right in. Ferment high 60s
 
Just for kicks, how do you mill your grain. How fine? What's the gap width, for the wheat especially?

Forget kits, especially LME kits. Freshness issues.

One of our club brewers brews a very good Hefe, mainly for his wife, and swears by using 100% DME instead of all-grain.
If you want to try extract, you can buy Wheat DME. Briess' is 65% Wheat, 35% Barley. That's what he uses.
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_CBWBavarianWheatDME.pdf
 
It also sounds like the yeast need to be stressed. Lower pitch rate, increase OG, increase fermentation temp, shorten clean up time after fermentation before kegging, etc..

You may want to think about playing with 1 gallon batches to tune recipes exactly for these reasons.

~HopSing.
 
The weizen kit from my LHBS only includes LME and hops anyway, not much of a kit so I'll pick up some DME instead, thanks for the input. To rule out water variables I can try a very simple, minimalist adjustment to my RO, any suggestions? Also, any suggestions for optimal OG?

I'm really getting into the idea of trying extract, it just eliminates so many variables. My end goal here is to produce and enjoy a keg of good hefeweizen; mastering an AG method to get there is really a secondary objective, one I can focus on after I redeem myself in the eyes of my frau.
 
Just for kicks, how do you mill your grain. How fine? What's the gap width, for the wheat especially?

Forget kits, especially LME kits. Freshness issues.

One of our club brewers brews a very good Hefe, mainly for his wife, and swears by using 100% DME instead of all-grain.
If you want to try extract, you can buy Wheat DME. Briess' is 65% Wheat, 35% Barley. That's what he uses.
http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_CBWBavarianWheatDME.pdf
I used to crush super fine but a half dozen batches ago I opened the gap so it just grabs a credit card. Since then my efficiency has been steady and predictable at 77% and the flavors of my finished beers are much cleaner.
 
According this try:
- more simple sugar (33% of grain bill)
- high fermentation temperature (up to 30'C)
- banana yeast (maybe Belgian)
- no washed or yeast with big starter
 
Holy crap DME is EXPENSIVE. I could just about buy a whole sack of base malt for what it will cost to brew 6 gallons @1.060 with extract.
 
The weizen kit from my LHBS only includes LME and hops anyway, not much of a kit so I'll pick up some DME instead, thanks for the input. To rule out water variables I can try a very simple, minimalist adjustment to my RO, any suggestions? Also, any suggestions for optimal OG?

I'm really getting into the idea of trying extract, it just eliminates so many variables. My end goal here is to produce and enjoy a keg of good hefeweizen; mastering an AG method to get there is really a secondary objective, one I can focus on after I redeem myself in the eyes of my frau.
With extract use distilled water. (unless RO water is mineral free, that is... I’m still not clear on that)
 
I used to crush super fine but a half dozen batches ago I opened the gap so it just grabs a credit card. Since then my efficiency has been steady and predictable at 77% and the flavors of my finished beers are much cleaner.
I can't see crushing super fine causing the lack of banana flavor.
I was more thinking if you crush too coarsely you may not get enough extraction from the wheat. Wheat has much smaller kernels than barley, and most may pass through uncrushed. I've seen and tasted those results (in other brewer's beers) from the rather coarse crush our venerable LHBS provides.

Now a credit card width gap is around 0.034" which is too coarse for wheat, IMO. I therefore re-adjust the mill to crush small kernel grain such as wheat and rye at their own, narrower gap of 0.025". Oat malt even a tad tighter. I use a converted cooler mash tun with a CPVC manifold. No recirculation, batch sparge 2x.
 
With extract use distilled water. (unless RO water is mineral free, that is... I’m still not clear on that)
For brewing purposes they are the same. Although it may vary depending on the mineral content of the water source, RO through a proper working membrane may contain up to 12 ppm of minerals (TDS meter), usually less. You won't notice the difference.
 
I can't see crushing super fine causing the lack of banana flavor.
I was more thinking if you crush too coarsely you may not get enough extraction from the wheat. Wheat has much smaller kernels than barley, and most may pass through uncrushed. I've seen and tasted those results (in other brewer's beers) from the rather coarse crush our venerable LHBS provides.

Now a credit card width gap is around 0.034" which is too coarse for wheat, IMO. I therefore re-adjust the mill to crush small kernel grain such as wheat and rye at their own, narrower gap of 0.025". Oat malt even a tad tighter. I use a converted cooler mash tun with a CPVC manifold. No recirculation, batch sparge 2x.
Well as I BIAB I used to crush really fine, no banana, and now I crush a little coarser but my efficiency stayed pretty much the same. My actual observation is that it went up from 75% to 77% but that doesn't make sense so I chalk it up to other variables, but in any case I can't see the coarser crush as causing the lack of banana. My latest batch contained 66% wheat malt and my cereal killer crushed it just fine, if it was crushed insufficiently I would have expected a noticeable drop in efficiency but in fact it turned out to be a bit higher than expected as I overshot my target by a few points.
 
With extract use distilled water. (unless RO water is mineral free, that is... I’m still not clear on that)
Hey thanks, never thought about it but the minerals from the mash would be included in the DME, wouldn't they? I'll just use straight RO, in my case it still has ~7 ppm dissolved minerals but that's close enough for brewing.
 
From Bru'n Water by Martin Brungard:

When brewing with RO or Distilled Water and Malt Extracts, the Extract should provide most of the minerals needed for proper fermentation performance. But the ion balance in the Malt Extract is typically moderate. If the Brewer desires a specific flavor profile, additional Sulfate or Chloride containing minerals can be added to the brewing water. The Water Adjustment sheet can help the Brewer assess how much of these minerals should be added to the brewing water.​
It turns out that you can't necessarily rely on the extract manufacturer to take care of the mineral additions. I checked with Williams Brewing and was told "no salt or other water additives were used during the mashing process of our liquid malt extracts." and "It is California tap water with nothing added." I've read similar things about others but can't remember specifics. So I think you can benefit from experimenting with salt additions, but it amounts to fine tuning.
 
Holy crap DME is EXPENSIVE. I could just about buy a whole sack of base malt for what it will cost to brew 6 gallons @1.060 with extract.
Yeah, just about. It runs $14 for a 3 pound bag at my LHBS. No more than regular all-barley DME.

I usually get Light Pilsen DME (only used for starters here) at our group grain buy, splitting a 50# sack among 2-5 participants. It's less than half the sting that way, not counting the sticky arm at the end. ;)

Maybe do a few 1 or 2 gallon batches until you figured it out.
It may well be due to overpitching... so don't overdo that part.
 
From Bru'n Water by Martin Brungard:

When brewing with RO or Distilled Water and Malt Extracts, the Extract should provide most of the minerals needed for proper fermentation performance. But the ion balance in the Malt Extract is typically moderate. If the Brewer desires a specific flavor profile, additional Sulfate or Chloride containing minerals can be added to the brewing water. The Water Adjustment sheet can help the Brewer assess how much of these minerals should be added to the brewing water.​
It turns out that you can't necessarily rely on the extract manufacturer to take care of the mineral additions. I checked with Williams Brewing and was told "no salt or other water additives were used during the mashing process of our liquid malt extracts." and "It is California tap water with nothing added." I've read similar things about others but can't remember specifics. So I think you can benefit from experimenting with salt additions, but it amounts to fine tuning.
Do you know whether they adjust mash pH? I'm really shocked at this, I expected a super advanced, high efficiency mashing process if for no other reason than just to maximize efficiency and profit. But then again, the salts ain't free. I'm coming to realize that water adjustments likely have little impact on the final product including the production of isoamyl acetate.

Also, the solution to my problem is probably something stupid simple, and we're all just thinking too damned hard!!
 
Do you know whether they adjust mash pH? I'm really shocked at this, I expected a super advanced, high efficiency mashing process if for no other reason than just to maximize efficiency and profit. But then again, the salts ain't free. I'm coming to realize that water adjustments likely have little impact on the final product including the production of isoamyl acetate.

Also, the solution to my problem is probably something stupid simple, and we're all just thinking too damned hard!!
Yes, this is in relation to using calcium to bring out maltiness and gypsum for more hop character (keeping it elementary for brevity’s sake) When purchasing LME OR DME we buy malt not beer add water. Though come to think of it it would be nice if a kit came with salts to make the correct water profile. With that said, my extract brews were improved by using distilled water, rather than filtered tap.
 
Well as I BIAB I used to crush really fine, no banana, and now I crush a little coarser but my efficiency stayed pretty much the same. My actual observation is that it went up from 75% to 77% but that doesn't make sense so I chalk it up to other variables, but in any case I can't see the coarser crush as causing the lack of banana. My latest batch contained 66% wheat malt and my cereal killer crushed it just fine, if it was crushed insufficiently I would have expected a noticeable drop in efficiency but in fact it turned out to be a bit higher than expected as I overshot my target by a few points.
I have made two weizen beers in the past and was unhappy with both. I think my issue was similar to yours, with no real banana prevalent. At the time I was BIABing.
I remember reading somewhere that the banana flavour is suppressed from a turbid wort. The turbidity of a BIAB wort is usually off the charts. It certainly was for mine when I was making them.
I have since switched to 3V and get crystal clear wort into the kettle but was so put off making weizen that I have not tried again since.
 
I use a fermonster with a blowoff tube in just a bit of starsan. I understand that is not truly "open" but the miniscule amount of backpressure can't be more than the day to day fluctuation in barometric pressure due to weather changes.

Next.
well known and respected brewer of saisons in socal area once explained to me that he couldnt get them the way he wanted them until he did an atmospheric/full open ferment. no blowoff. not the same yeast, but if that works for saison.....
 
I have made two weizen beers in the past and was unhappy with both. I think my issue was similar to yours, with no real banana prevalent. At the time I was BIABing.
I remember reading somewhere that the banana flavour is suppressed from a turbid wort. The turbidity of a BIAB wort is usually off the charts. It certainly was for mine when I was making them.
I have since switched to 3V and get crystal clear wort into the kettle but was so put off making weizen that I have not tried again since.
This sounds like a real possibility! I must have read the same article, because since that time I've looked at my recirculating cooling method with suspicion. At that time I was chasing down problems I was having with a bitter, husky, grainy off flavor that plagued many batches until I figured out that my mill gap was set too tight. I have wondered whether it is worth trying an immersion chiller just to see how things might change.

THANK YOU!
 
well known and respected brewer of saisons in socal area once explained to me that he couldnt get them the way he wanted them until he did an atmospheric/full open ferment. no blowoff. not the same yeast, but if that works for saison.....
Saison being a farmhouse style, that really makes perfect sense. I have a packet of Belle Saison and I might try an open ferment with just a towel over it to keep bugs and dust from falling in. A while back I saw some photos here on HBT of a Bavarian brewery where they were fermenting weissbier in wide, open-top vessels, I just don't know if I'm brave enough to try that one myself. Their brewery wasn't sterile to be sure, but the abundance of yeast everywhere likely just outnumber any invasive yeast or mold by such a great degree that they do not to pose a threat to the fermenting beer.
 
dont brew any weisse type beers. but ive definitely seen monster krauzens on those suckers. if i had to come up with a solution i'd say split the batch into two 5 gallon buckets so you have plenty of head space and then cover them both with a double layer of cheesecloth. combine them into one vessel once the krauzen dies, or dont.
 
Jayjay, really sorry to hear that. I'm a fellow Chicago brewer, albeit with a bit less experience. I brew Weizen and Pilsner. I'm really happy with my Weizen, and I find I have to try and keep the banana flavor down...

As I mentioned in Konstantinos thread (also unhappy with his Weizen), all of mine have turned out fine over the years, except for the one time I got a good deal on expired liquid yeast. That was also the time I didn't sparge, but just used a bag, so there was a ton (four times as much as usual) sediment at the bottom of the fermenter. I'm usually trying to keep the banana flavor down. After I drank all of my previous batch, I had to go out and buy some Weihenstephan Weizen (also to try and harvest yeast, unsuccessfully), and find the flavor profile to be uncannily identical (except I like my beer maybe just a tiny bit better; it seems rounder & smoother; maybe it is just sweeter; or maybe just my imagination).

Anyways, enough of the chit chat, some details that may or may not help you:
  • I use carbon filtered Chicago city (lake) water, and don't do anything to adjust it further.
  • I buy pre-crushed grain at Brew & Grow on Kedzie; last time I asked about the mill setting, but Larry (at least I think it was Larry) said that he brews Weizen with the normal setting, gets good results, and hasn't heard any complaints from anybody else. He offered to crush it twice, but I didn't take him up on it.
  • I do a really slow step mash in a 5 gallon kettle on a gas range, with mash in at 95F, ferulic rest at 115F (20 minutes; I don't think this reduces the banana esters, but it is supposed to add clove flavor), protein rest at 125F (10'), beta-amylase/maltase (corrected: NOT maltose) rest at 145F (30'), and finally alpha-amylase (maltose rest) at 162F (30'). The total mashing time is about 3 hours; I'm moving really slow between the last two steps, to avoid boiling/bubbling at the bottom of the kettle. This might be unnecessary, since a bit of boiling might emulate a decoction mash.
  • I do sparge (except for that one time), and I find that for Weizen I need a lot of Vorlauf (2 gallons recirculated, I'm guessing, of about 5 gallon final pre-boil wort volume), and I end up with a grey layer of what I guess is wheat flour on top of the grain afterwards. The sparge collection manifold (or is that a lauter manifold?) is slotted copper.
  • My efficiency is not too high: Last time I got 4 gallons at 1.056 OG out of 10 lbs grain (3 lbs Weyermann Bohemian Pilsner malt and 7 lbs Weyermann Pale Wheat malt).I have added a bit of lightly colored malt in the past, but I find my Weizens sweet enough without.
  • I cool the wort with a copper immersion chiller
  • I usually water down to 1.050 density (adding filtered water, which is probably not so well advised, but hey, live a little), and use Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan Hefeweizen; last time I pitched slightly above 26C, 80F or thereabouts.
  • When transferring I try to avoid splashing, but a bit of aeration seems unavoidable. When bubbling doesn't start in the next six hours, I often give the fermenter a good sloshing.
  • I control the 7.7 gallon glass carboy temperature with an internal copper coil between 16 and 18C. That is 61F to 65F
  • I use an airlock bubbler, so fermenting at atmospheric pressure
  • I'm pretty religious about sanitizing, except apparently when I pour cold filtered water into the fermenter...
One more thing: reading that braumagazin article, maybe you don't have a lack of banana, but too much other flavors (ethyl esters?) overpowering the banana flavor?

Also, reading the 'maltaseverfahren' article: Ever since reading Palmers description of how the amylases work (alpha and beta), I have always wondered whether you would really need to have the beta do its work (maltose rest) after the alpha.
At least Palmers description of what the enzymes do makes it sound like that would be the logical sequence. Of course, in 'normal' mashing, by getting to the optimum temperature for the alpha, you kill the beta. So, adding some preserved lower temperature mash (or grain), with beta still intact, and going back to 145F after mashing at 162F would achieve that. So might a decoction mash, if you heat the hot part slow enough. Or a step mash with insufficient stirring, where some of the mash at the bottom of the kettle gets a bit of time at the alpha-amylase optimum, and is then fed back to the beta-amylase, to cut the starch down some more.
Supposedly (both quoted locations) this increases banana flavor.
 
Last edited:
I went through the same struggles also. Last few attempts were not perfect but had more banana. I shoot for 5.45 PH (lessens sourness), pitch yeast at 53F and let free rise and hold at 72F for duration. My recipe had 70% wheat and WLP300 yeast. I laughed when I read your list of things you tried only because I did the same still looking for answers. If you have the book Designing Great Beers, Ray Daniels states most weiss beer entered in competitions use extract (not encouraging for us all grain brewers).
 
This sounds like a real possibility! I must have read the same article, because since that time I've looked at my recirculating cooling method with suspicion. At that time I was chasing down problems I was having with a bitter, husky, grainy off flavor that plagued many batches until I figured out that my mill gap was set too tight. I have wondered whether it is worth trying an immersion chiller just to see how things might change.

THANK YOU!
The two weizens I made definitely had a weird grainy, husky off flavour I did not enjoy. I’m not sure what you mean by using an immersion chiller to reduce turbidity. I believe the off flavour lies in the boiling of a turbid wort.
 
I went through the same struggles also. Last few attempts were not perfect but had more banana. I shoot for 5.45 PH (lessens sourness), pitch yeast at 53F and let free rise and hold at 72F for duration. My recipe had 70% wheat and WLP300 yeast. I laughed when I read your list of things you tried only because I did the same still looking for answers. If you have the book Designing Great Beers, Ray Daniels states most weiss beer entered in competitions use extract (not encouraging for us all grain brewers).
I wonder if the reason many extract weizens work well is because they don’t have to worry about turbidity and astringency from the wheat grains.
 
The two weizens I made definitely had a weird grainy, husky off flavour I did not enjoy. I’m not sure what you mean by using an immersion chiller to reduce turbidity. I believe the off flavour lies in the boiling of a turbid wort.
So I need to filter the wort on its way to the brew kettle? That means adding a vessel to my system. I wonder if there is a way to use my pump to filter the wort after pulling the bag. I would think that might take a long time, instead maybe draw it off into buckets until the kettle is empty then rinse it out before adding the wort back in? I guess at least sanotation wouldn't be a problem since this is pre-boil.

Would a standard, household-type filter with polyester sediment cartridge do the job?
 
Hm, I honestly don't understand why you wouldn't get that banana flavour. WY 3068 is a solid, balanced yeast (unlike WB06, which is not even really a Hefeweizen yeast...!).
If you can find a bottle of "Gutmann" (a brewery), you could culture up the yeast from the sediment (the bottles contain lots of viable yeast). It produces a ton of banana. But, given that it's a relatively small brewery, it might not be available where you live.

One thing some German homebrewers do to get more pronounced banana flavours is the so-called "Maltaseverfahren", where you basically mash twice, adding a part of the grist and water only after the first run.
Here's a description in German Maltaseverfahren
With the temperature curve, it should be intelligible, but I can also try and translate if you'd like me to.
I should note, however, that others have had mixed results with this method: some praise it, some have been disappointed. But it might be worth a shot if you're so desperate for banana.
Besides no banana flavor, is it good beer? If it is still good drinkable beer, no reason not to keep trying. Not a weissbier expert, but I suspect there might be another yeast you could try.
He's tried the best yeast. The Wyeast 3068 is the Weihenstepan weizen yeast. Have you tried the 30° C rule? Pitching temp °C + ferment temp °C = 30° C. I use to brew banana bombs but now I brew them balanced for competition.
 
So I need to filter the wort on its way to the brew kettle? That means adding a vessel to my system. I wonder if there is a way to use my pump to filter the wort after pulling the bag. I would think that might take a long time, instead maybe draw it off into buckets until the kettle is empty then rinse it out before adding the wort back in? I guess at least sanotation wouldn't be a problem since this is pre-boil.

Would a standard, household-type filter with polyester sediment cartridge do the job?
At what gravity do you stop collecting wort? Don't go lower than 1.010 and a bit above this say 1.015 will help with a smoother bier. Also, how much rice hulls do you use if any?
 
The guys at my LHBS have tried it and are puzzled about what the problem might be. Year before last I brought my whole system over there for a group brew session in the parking lot, and though I didn't brew a weissbier on that day the instructor checked out my setup and didn't see any problems with my process. Besides the instructor, I was the only other AG brewer who turned up that day, everyone else brewing extract batches so he spent most of the time watching me brew.

On a side note, the hefeweizen the instructor brews has the perfect balance of banana-clove and that intangible, elusive German-ness that takes me back to the years we spent living in southern Germany where we fell in love with the style, sipping fresh Hefeweizen in the hot summer sun.

Here are a few things I can think of that I haven't yet tried:

-Another type of fermenter, glass maybe? I ferment 6 gallon batches in 7 gallon plastic fermonsters
-Chilling with something other than my copper counterflow unit
-Higher end malts, I tend to use Avangard though I did a batch a while back with Bestmalz Heidelberg pils. Should I try floor malted Weyermann or something else?
-Intentionally underpitching; I either pitch a fresh activator pack or most recently a pouch of Lallemand MC dry yeast
-Combination underpitching with oxygenation as mentioned by @TheMadKing
-A different water profile than those listed above
-I own a pH meter but haven't yet started using it, depending mostly on the predictions by brewersfriend
-Due to my BIAB process, most or all break material ends up in the fermenter, should I filter or whirlpool to avoid that?
You definitely want to Whirlpool to leave as much trub behind as possible. I also use good German pils and wheat malts.
 
You could brew like a beginner brewer - don't aerate, no yeast nutrient, pitch warm, underpitch - do everything "wrong" from a healthy fermentation standpoint to really get that yeast stressed but multiplying like happy bunnies.

I agree. Go with the WTF approach. Use plain ole filtered water, mash at a single temp, boil 60 mins with minimal amt of hops, toss in yeast and stir. Stick it in the laundry and let her rip. Last Franziskaner clone I brewed was an all DME half batch I bought as an afterthought at the LHBS. I hung on to it for 2 months and then brewed it just to get it out of the fridge. Treated just like that. Fermented at a steady 73 F using WL300. Tasted like banana bread fruitcake. I do have a stainless chiller tho...

Elf shoes can't hurt...
 
HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Hefeweizen - A New Hope v2.2
Author: Meee

Brew Method: BIAB
Style Name: Weissbier
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 6.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7.5 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.042
Efficiency: 77% (brew house)

Hop Utilization Multiplier: 1

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.048
Final Gravity: 1.013
ABV (standard): 4.69%
IBU (tinseth): 19.16
SRM (ebcmorey): 9.44
Mash pH: 5.26

FERMENTABLES:
6 lb - Pale Wheat (55.9%)
3 lb - Golden Promise (28%)
0.4 lb - Melanoidin (3.7%)
0.33 lb - Acidulated Malt (3.1%)
1 lb - Dark Wheat (9.3%)

HOPS:
16 g - Mandarina Bavaria, Type: Pellet, AA: 9.5, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 16.87
6 g - Mandarina Bavaria, Type: Pellet, AA: 9.5, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 2.29

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Strike, Temp: 131 F, Time: 10 min, Amount: 8.5 gal,
2) Temperature, Temp: 145 F, Time: 30 min
3) Temperature, Temp: 161 F, Time: 30 min

OTHER INGREDIENTS:
3 g - Calcium Chloride (dihydrate), Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
2 g - Epsom Salt, Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
4 g - Gypsum, Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
0.5 g - Baking Soda, Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
0.2 g - Table Salt, Time: 60 min, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash

YEAST:
Danstar - Munich Classic Wheat Beer Yeast
Starter: No
Form: Dry
Attenuation (custom): 73%
Flocculation: Low
Optimum Temp: 63 - 72 F
Fermentation Temp: 75 F
Pitch Rate: 0.35 (M cells / ml / deg P)

PRIMING:
CO2 Level: 4.04 Volumes

TARGET WATER PROFILE:
Profile Name: Munich (decarbonated)
Ca2: 46.9
Mg2: 6
Na: 6.9
Cl: 48.7
SO4: 75.5
HCO3: 11.394
Water Notes:

I would suggest you either reduce your 10 min hop addition by a lot or ditch it altogether. I believe you are over-hopping in general, covering up the yeast and malt completely, particularly with the late hops and even your IBUs for bittering are too high for the style.

Please refer to Jamil's example:

https://byo.com/article/german-hefeweizen-style-profile/
 
I would suggest you either reduce your 10 min hop addition by a lot or ditch it altogether. I believe you are over-hopping in general, covering up the yeast and malt completely, particularly with the late hops and even your IBUs for bittering are too high for the style.

Please refer to Jamil's example:

https://byo.com/article/german-hefeweizen-style-profile/

To get to 0.2 IBU/OG for this recipe, reduce your IBU of the 60 min addition to 9 and move the 10 min addition out to 5 min instead to reduce hop flavor extraction.
 
I wonder if the reason many extract weizens work well is because they don’t have to worry about turbidity and astringency from the wheat grains.
Why do you think wheat malt should impart astringency and turbidity? Wheat malt is huskless and besides that extract weizens are made with extract that is made with a large portion of wheat malt in the grist, so why would they be any different from the AG version?
 
Do you know whether they adjust mash pH?
Yes, this is in relation to using calcium to bring out maltiness and gypsum for more hop character (keeping it elementary for brevity’s sake)
That seems to be right. I should have included my original question to Williams for clarity: "I'm interested in optimizing the water chemistry for my brews when using Williams malt extracts. I brew some malty beers and some hoppy beers, and the water chemistry would be different for each of these. Can I assume that these products were mashed with minimal salt additions, and therefore add the normal amount of salts (specifically gypsum and CaCl), similar to what would be used in a mash?"
(Bold added for emphasis)
 
Now days I pay a lot of attention to water I've gone to a RO system, Ph meter, TDS meter, all the chemicals and my beer has improved. However, I use to run the tap water though a RV hose and a charcoal filter. Never did any adjustments, no Ph, and I brewed great beers. My weizen had good clove and banana. And my other German beers were great too. I have a lot of awards.
 
There are a lot of great ideas here, thanks everyone who has chimed in so far.

A while back I read somewhere about excess shear stress on wort causing flavor problems, I might look into eliminating that as well. An immersion chiller would eliminate the need to use a pump, I might borrow one from a friend just to test this.
 
So I need to filter the wort on its way to the brew kettle? That means adding a vessel to my system. I wonder if there is a way to use my pump to filter the wort after pulling the bag. I would think that might take a long time, instead maybe draw it off into buckets until the kettle is empty then rinse it out before adding the wort back in? I guess at least sanotation wouldn't be a problem since this is pre-boil.

Would a standard, household-type filter with polyester sediment cartridge do the job?
You would then have hotside aeration to deal with. A gentle whirlpool should do it.
 
Stress is key as it is an open fermentation but an open fermentation is not just letting the bucket without a lid, you need a shallow fermentor, the wider the better and square fermentors are known to produce more esters, but in Germany some breweries use th round
 
Back
Top