Iglo Cooler Port

[skitter]

Quick Question...

Brewing on the cheap, I bought the 5g Igloo cooler from Lowes for maintaining my mash temps with BIAB, insulating the pot wasn't working very well anymore. Did my first batch with it and other than not taking into account the fact I pre-heated it and ended up mashing high, everything went well.

Instead of doing the whole ball valve deal, why not just use a priming bucket plastic port? My cooler just has the outer shell and inner shell right next to each other on the outlet so I assumed this would work well. Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[broadbill]

Quick Question...

Brewing on the cheap, I bought the 5g Igloo cooler from Lowes for maintaining my mash temps with BIAB, insulating the pot wasn't working very well anymore. Did my first batch with it and other than not taking into account the fact I pre-heated it and ended up mashing high, everything went well.

Instead of doing the whole ball valve deal, why not just use a priming bucket plastic port? My cooler just has the outer shell and inner shell right next to each other on the outlet so I assumed this would work well. Thoughts?

Thanks

If it fits it should be OK...however, I have in my mind that the priming bucket valve is larger than the typical cooler port hole. Also, the bucket valve was made to go through the wall of a buckets, may not be long enough for a cooler wall.

Try it and see.

 

[Jwin]

Doubt the size will work, but ive seen and done this
Measure you hole. Get 1-2 ft of thick wall silcone hose that is slightly larger in OD and pull it through. Add a cheap barbed valve on the outside to open/close. Add hose to length needed for your application after the valve.
You can add a barb to npt fitting inside if you wish, but i doubt you will need it for biab.

But, why not direct fire your kettle. The whole point of biab is 1 vessel, no?
Soon youll want a hlt.

 

[skitter]

I do not have anything underneath the grain bag. Using a 4 Gallon pot, I brew 2.5 gallon batches. The bag sits on the bottom of the pot. I tried doing no sparge BIAB etc... efficiency sucked and I didn't want to "waste grain" by adding more to make up for it. Using previously a separate pot and now this with a batch sparge I'm hitting 80% (+/- 1-2 points). My penny pinching ways may end up with a Frankenstein 3 tier system eventually but the BIAB with cooler looks promising.

Broadbill, I was looking at the opening through the wall, and it looks like it's literally 2 pieces of plastic smashed up together, so I don't think it's any thicker than actual bucket material. There is no insulation at the port (I went with the $23 Poly cooler instead of the $26 one).

 

[broadbill]

I do not have anything underneath the grain bag. Using a 4 Gallon pot, I brew 2.5 gallon batches. The bag sits on the bottom of the pot. I tried doing no sparge BIAB etc... efficiency sucked and I didn't want to "waste grain" by adding more to make up for it. Using previously a separate pot and now this with a batch sparge I'm hitting 80% (+/- 1-2 points). My penny pinching ways may end up with a Frankenstein 3 tier system eventually but the BIAB with cooler looks promising.

Broadbill, I was looking at the opening through the wall, and it looks like it's literally 2 pieces of plastic smashed up together, so I don't think it's any thicker than actual bucket material. There is no insulation at the port (I went with the $23 Poly cooler instead of the $26 one).

Sounds like you are doing more of a MIAB...in this case I'd probably go with a ball valve since you would be opening/closing for the vorlauf and to regulate flow. Another option would be to go with a finer crush and try BIAB again. As BIAB has evolved it seems like the efficiency issue had been solved with the finer crush.

 

[MrAverageGuy]

Doubt the size will work, but ive seen and done this
Measure you hole. Get 1-2 ft of thick wall silcone hose that is slightly larger in OD and pull it through. Add a cheap barbed valve on the outside to open/close. Add hose to length needed for your application after the valve.
You can add a barb to npt fitting inside if you wish, but i doubt you will need it for biab.

But, why not direct fire your kettle. The whole point of biab is 1 vessel, no?
Soon youll want a hlt.

I do BIAB in the same size range - just takes more watching to maintain mash temp in an uninsulated kettle than to do it in an Igloo cooler, where temp stays pretty stable when you put the lid on. That, and I'd occasionally burn the edges of the bag when it draped over the kettle on the stove. Went with a 10 gallon cooler, so I could cram a big beer into a small batch on occasion. I think I'll spring for a ball valve, too.

 

[skitter]

Sounds like you are doing more of a MIAB...in this case I'd probably go with a ball valve since you would be opening/closing for the vorlauf and to regulate flow. Another option would be to go with a finer crush and try BIAB again. As BIAB has evolved it seems like the efficiency issue had been solved with the finer crush.

MIAB? I don't vorlauf. I simply use the cooler to regulate. I was wrapping my kettle in a blanket and coat but some days I got a 2 degree drop over an hour, others I got a 5 degree drop. Adding the cooler was a way for me to better maintain temps.

LHBS does a fine crush for me. I dont have a mill yet.

 

[joesmink]

Bung, tubing and plastic thingy that has adjustable flow, cheap enough for me
A little soap on the tubing will get it to slide perfectly through hole in bung.

 

[jwalk4]

Bung, tubing and plastic thingy that has adjustable flow, cheap enough for me
A little soap on the tubing will get it to slide perfectly through hole in bung.

Was literally just going to suggest this. My friend who works at my LHBS did that for years!!! Works fine!

 

[skitter]

Did you silicon the bung in at all? My concern would be something getting between the inner and outer cooler walls around the bung

 

[joesmink]

No sir no silicone nothin
Bung seals all on it own just like on a carboy sealed

 

[skitter]

No sir no silicone nothin
Bung seals all on it own just like on a carboy sealed

Cool, just making sure as with the cooler you are working with multiple layers.

Insert from the inside I'm assuming? that way water pressure presses it in more fully?

Thanks,

 

[joesmink]

After I ran the tubing through the bung I shoved the clean and dry bung in from the inside really hard
I've taken it out and put it back in several times with no difficulties or leaks etc

 

[skitter]

After I ran the tubing through the bung I shoved the clean and dry bung in from the inside really hard
I've taken it out and put it back in several times with no difficulties or leaks etc

Cool. I think on mine I may have to enlarge the port a bit to do that.

Thanks for the info!

 

[skitter]

What about adding something like this inline?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XXNH1A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[feinbera]

You should be able to find a bung to fit the port – I've got that same cooler, I know the port's bigger than the little bungs for putting an airlock on your bucket fermenter but smaller than a carboy neck, but, there are like four standard sizes of bungs between the bucket and carboy sizes, your LHBS oughtta have them all in stock (mine does).

Also, you might consider high-temp hosing, so nothing leaches into your wort?

Otherwise, seems pretty slick... sometimes I wish I wasn't a perfectionist equipment horder and could let myself get away with brewing in such a simple setup.

 

[Stillraining]

Just curious...If you moved from kettle to cooler I doubt you have a rectangle bag to properly fit your cooler. If so then your fighting things. I totally agree with the benefits of BIAB for single kettle brewing ( I use to do it) but I don't understand it once you move to a cooler MLT as your doing. As a previous poster also noted.

I bet I can clean my cooler faster then you can clean your bag.
How dose 30 seconds sound?

Garden hose jet spray done in 30 seconds.

If you get to a point of needing a new bag....Don't!...Loose the bag..spent the same money and get a bazooka screen and SS ball valve valve. 97.2 % mash eff on my last batch. Vorluf is easy takes less then a minute.

I think they use a 3/4 " hole for the bucket valves...I have watched them install mine but never asked....Sorry...Your LHBS can tell you.

If you just bought a round cooler I guess your good to go as is with your bag. That is "If" its big enough to drape over the edges so your not fighting that as well.

Carry on.

 

[Jwin]

I use the same setup as still raining except bigger and I slide a cheap paint strainer bag over my bazooka screen for a bit more filtration. Works well.

 

[Jwin]

View attachment 1451496451806.jpg

 

[skitter]

Just curious...If you moved from kettle to cooler I doubt you have a rectangle bag to properly fit your cooler. If so then your fighting things. I totally agree with the benefits of BIAB for single kettle brewing ( I use to do it) but I don't understand it once you move to a cooler MLT as your doing. As a previous poster also noted.

I bet I can clean my cooler faster then you can clean your bag.
How dose 30 seconds sound?

Garden hose jet spray done in 30 seconds.

If you get to a point of needing a new bag....Don't!...Loose the bag..spent the same money and get a bazooka screen and SS ball valve valve. 97.2 % mash eff on my last batch. Vorluf is easy takes less then a minute.

I think they use a 3/4 " hole for the bucket valves...I have watched them install mine but never asked....Sorry...Your LHBS can tell you.

If you just bought a round cooler I guess your good to go as is with your bag. That is "If" its big enough to drape over the edges so your not fighting that as well.

Carry on.

I have the Igloo 5 Gallon round cooler. I use the paint strainer bags so they fit perfectly around the edges for mashing in. I plan on expanding my setup one step at a time, this was the cheapest next step. I also plan on buying the cheapo Wal-Mart 9" SS steamer rack that will fit perfectly in the bottom and raise the bag above the port. Eventually adding a pump for central infusion recirculation. One step at a time on a limited budget.