Idea for testing new gas lines in keezer. Will it work?

[Jwin]

I'll finally be assembling the rest of the keezer tomorrow. Liquid side is done. Just the gas remains.
I'm using one primary outside, and one secondary reg inside with a split before the secondary and a distro after the secondary. Should give me my 3 serving lines and on higher psi carbing line.
Anyway, my idea. Before I dump a whole tank of gas or something, has anyone every used a pressurized keg in place of a co2 tank? I could, in theory, just pump an empty keg up to 20psi, attach it to the line that would be connected to my primary reg, and just let it sit overnight.
Obviously, no QDs would be attached to kegs inside. But this would test every connection except the one from primary to the hose, which could be tested later with Star San.
Ideas? Concerns?

 

[Electrake]

Only concern I personally see is extra work. I'd personally hook up everything as i meant it to, fire everything up, then listen for hissing and spray with a strong star san solution on all connections to check for bubbling.

 

[Gonefishing]

I did the same as Electrake. Another case where Starsan is your friend.

 

[doug293cz]

You'd want all the kegs on the downstream side to be empty. If you have uncarbed beer (or even water) in the downstream kegs, then they will absorb CO2, the pressure will drop, and you'll think you have a leak.

Brew on

 

[dcrog]

Why not just pressurize the system (hoses, disconnects,gauges, etc.) then close the valve on the co2 tank. Pressure will drop pretty quickly on such a small amount of volume. No tanks involved.

That's how I tested mine originally.

 

[eric19312]

Why not just pressurize the system (hoses, disconnects,gauges, etc.) then close the valve on the co2 tank. Pressure will drop pretty quickly on such a small amount of volume. No tanks involved.

That's how I tested mine originally.

This works for me too. I pressurize the system with all manifolds open but no kegs attached. Close the valve on the CO2 tank - the valve on the top of the tank itself, not the valve on the bottom of your regulator. Leave it alone for 10 min then open it back up. If the dial on regulator moves you have a leak. You can then close all the manifold valves and run the same test on the gas connections between the regulator and the manifold, then one by one open the manifold lines and test each of them. Nothing magic about waiting 10 min, might need to be more or less depending on the size of the leak.

 

[Jwin]

Awesome. I love it. Thanks!