IBU calculation for dry hopping

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Yup, if it isn't boiling you are not going to be isomerizing the alpha acids and you'll get aroma and hop resin flavor but not "bittering."
 
Easy: IBU before dry hopping + 0 = IBU after dry hopping.

The bittering compounds (which are resins, not oils) only dissolve in a boil, not at room temperature.
 
You guys are all wrong... dry hopping adds ZERO IBUs... sheesh
 
Wait I'm confused. What you're trying to tell me is that dry hopping adds zero IBU's. Is that correct? :D

Is there any sort of rule of thumb for figuring out a proper hops amount for dry hopping? I've seen a lot of people here talk about 1/2oz to 1oz, but I just did a kit from MW (surly clone) and it has me dry hopping with 3oz.

Or is this just something you have to experiment with?
 

Zilch!!

As for amount of dry hops....seems like a lot of recipes I've tried go for 1 oz (either 1/2 once of one variety and 1/2 of another....or full one).

I'm about to dry hop a "hop whompus" ale that has more hops then I've ever brewed with (and is going down as the most expensive ale I've ever made). It has 5 onces of Amerillo, Centennial, and Liberty for the dry hop. It's also the first beer that I've mashed hopped, and post boil hopped. Did I mention this beer has a lot of hops?? :D
 
Preference, beer style, and how long you will condition the beer determine dry hopping rates.

A IIPA which will be aged for 3-4 months before drinking needs about 1 oz per gallon to get the hop aroma you would expect from such a bitter beer, since the hop oils degrade considerably with age. A pale ale only needs a half ounce to an ounce per 5 gallons. A typical IPA I would use 3 ounces to get an "in your face" intense hop aroma that makes the dog pass out. :)

Experience is the best way to learn hopping rates.

Have you had Avery's Maharaja? Or Pliny the Elder? Those beers use around a pound per 5 gallons for dry hopping!!
 
It is a total perference thing. I didn't even know what dry hopping was 3 months ago, but now I can't imagine not doing so, but it also depends on the style. I don't think you would want to dry hop a hefe beer for example, but man throw them in on an IPA. The amount just comes down to power aromatic the hop is and how much you want.

The up and coming popular beer from blacklab (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/cascades-orange-pale-ale-84558/) dry hops with 2oz of Cascades and it has an absolutely awesome aroma and taste. Sorry for the shameless plug, but it is great stuff and I didn't even use Maris Otter.
 
What I like to do, is dry hop for a week with an ounce. Then if it needs more, another ounce (and this is important) of a different hop. Say Cascade, then Amarillo. Massive dry hopping with a single hop just doesn't give as good a result.
 
Hi,
When we say about AA then it is correct, only during boil to increase IBU. But we need to know that Hops does not have only this to increase IBU.
example:
The oil "humoilulinones" look almost identical chemically to the iso-alpha acids and produce bitterness.*

We know if we drop a lot of hop in DH, we increase the bittnes... Try it to see the diff.!
There are many other oils, or the celuloses, or any other components that we do not control like the as AA and that can increase the IBU.
Like the article below say.

*
https://www.beervanablog.com/beervana/2017/4/17/yes-dry-hopping-does-add-bitterness-to-beer

tks!
 
Dry hopping may not add IBUs via dissolved alpha acids, but it can change the perceived bitterness in the final product. This is due to humulinones. They aren't as bitter as AA, but they dissolve easily at dry hopping temps. Increasing humulinones can decrease the iso-alpha-acid content, making the final product seem less bitter. Obviously this changes from hop to hop.
 

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