I think I need some kegs.

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The kegs are fine and should work well. My only issue with pin locks (or pin locks that have been converted to ball lock, as these are) is that they are short and stubby as compared to native ball lock kegs. The only reason this might be an issue is due to the fact that they are 9" OD and, thus, have a slightly larger footprint than ball lock kegs (8.5" OD), so depending on the size of your chest freezer, it could make a difference on how many kegs you can fit inside. It may not be an issue for you, but it is something to be aware of.
 
hmmm, thanks! What's the typical height of one of these kegs? Do you think it's worth it to just buy a couple new native ball locks?
 
https://www.kegconnection.com/conve...new-lid-for-homebrew-soda/?rfsn=550827.0baf37

Anyone have experience with these refurbished kegs from keg connection? I'm sick of bottling, looking for some deals to get into the kegging game. I already have a chest freezer, need to get a temp controller (Inkbird?, Thermostar?), I have a local Airgas that has the CO2....

I've purchased all my kegging gear from kegconnection, including 4 pinlocks. I searched all over and they had the best prices around that I could find. They come with new orings, pressurized so you know they hold, and most times they have deals going for free disconnects...which come in really handy. I like my pinlocks. I have no issues with the slightly larger footprint, but I'm not fighting for space. I don't mind not having a pressure release either. I've learned how to tilt the keg slightly and vent off the gas side. I could fork over some extra dough and get new lids, but it's not a big enough deal for me to justify spending money to do so.
My only reason for going pinlocks is...they where cheaper when I purchased my setup. :D
You will need a pinlock socket if you go that route. You can make your own easily enough like I did in a matter of minutes with a Dremel. There are plenty of threads here and on the www giving instruction. Super simple.
I'd also suggest searching around for o2. Airgas (round here) is way over priced IMO.
 
I bought a couple kegs from them last year when they were $50. They work just fine. They are however the roughest looking gets in my half dozen kegs. Mine were original ball lock kegs.

To be fair, all my other kegs I bought used in person so I could pick the best of what was there.
 
Adventures in Homebrewing (AIH), Austin Homebrew, Homebrew Supply and others periodically sell used ball locks, sometimes in 4-packs, for similar or better pricing.

AIH has brand new ball locks for $75. They also have a 20% off sale going on till May 31, and their shipping is very reasonable.

Pin locks, often marketed as "low profile" (but fatter) are fine if you have the space. Each of my 2 upright freezers hold 5 ball locks, but only 4 pin locks if I had those. The pin lock disconnects run more money and none have manual pressure relief valves (they all got domes).

Coincidentally, there's this offer by one of our sponsors...
 
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Take a good long look at sanke kegs.
Corny kegs are made for soda
Sanke for beer they are completely different by design
I switched and they made kegging so much more enjoyable....no long lines..no foamy beers...all around better.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-OF-2-BR...529402?hash=item33c9c602fa:g:CYgAAOSwbsBXpMjj

I agree, sick of my ball locks. To many places for leaks to occur. Slowly converting to sanke.... Besides fermenting in half barrel (15.5 Gallons) fits perfect in 50L (13.2 gallon). No more cleaning multiple kegs for big batches!
And picnic taps become an an option if you have a gas issue.
 
Hmmm...I've been thinking about a switch to sankes myself. Would like to have a 1/4 barrel to ferment in as well. Might up that on my upgrade list.
 
So, what's the drawback to sankes? I checked out a few tutorials on using them, and it seems relatively easy.
 
So, what's the drawback to sankes? I checked out a few tutorials on using them, and it seems relatively easy.
None...except keg hopping that some do...I don't feel the need.

The other bonus is if you run out of homebrew you can go a buy your favorite commercial beer...cant do that with a corny
 
Check homebrewfinds/craigslist once a day until you find some kegs for 40$ a piece that have been cleaned before selling. If they say they've been cleaned it doesn't really matter the outer condition at all, you just don't want to get some horror kegs that have been filled with gunk for the past 15 years.

Kegs are awesome. They replaced my plastic buckets for fermenting and sani storage, pitchers/gallons of sani are now prepped and ready on demand. They replaced my need to ever use/clean a racking cane ever again! They made transfer days care-free. No worries of oxidation/sanitation, only having to make sure the keg posts, serving/secondary keg, and jumper cord was sanitized, it is as simple as pushing a bit of star san into sanitized serving keg and blowing it back into sanitizer keg, then transferring.
 
Check homebrewfinds/craigslist once a day until you find some kegs for 40$ a piece that have been cleaned before selling. If they say they've been cleaned it doesn't really matter the outer condition at all, you just don't want to get some horror kegs that have been filled with gunk for the past 15 years.

Kegs are awesome. They replaced my plastic buckets for fermenting and sani storage, pitchers/gallons of sani are now prepped and ready on demand. They replaced my need to ever use/clean a racking cane ever again! They made transfer days care-free. No worries of oxidation/sanitation, only having to make sure the keg posts, serving/secondary keg, and jumper cord was sanitized, it is as simple as pushing a bit of star san into sanitized serving keg and blowing it back into sanitizer keg, then transferring.

So, you ferment in kegs, then I'm assuming hook up gas to the fermentor and transfer through the serving output?
 
I found a site that has standard drop-in D system sixtels for $90 and they have threaded D system sixtels for $5 more. My impression is the threaded ones would be easier to take on and off?
 
Keg size
Ball lock
Height: 25″
Height With Ball Lock Connectors: 26″
Diameter: 8-1/2
Pin lock
Height: 22 – 23”
Height With Pin Lock Connectors: 25 – 26″
Diameter: 9’’
1/6
Height: 23
Height 24 – 29 depending on coupler
Diameter: 9 1/4
 
So, you ferment in kegs, then I'm assuming hook up gas to the fermentor and transfer through the serving output?

Yep. I first of all take a gas disconnect attached to some tubing for a blowoff tube and stick it in a growler of sani or something. Then post primary i hook up gas, take a picnic faucet to blowoff the initial yeast built up around diptube, then i take a sanitized liquid to liquid disconnect and attach one to primary and one to a C02 purged serving keg, apply 5lb pressure on primary keg and occasionally pull the pressure release valve on the serving keg until its fully transferred. Its a breeze and can be done almost mindlessly because your not concerned about the beer being exposed to anything.

And since i keep a keg of sani on hand its super easy to clean/sani all lines immediately after use by blowing off into a spare pitcher. I replace my lines once every 3-4 months but am never concerned about actually cleaning them due to how easy it is to rinse/sani with pressure right after use.

The kegs that had been used for fermentation are then immediately hosed down with high pressure and hooked up to a small submersible pump sitting in a bucket of sanithat has a line with a T connected to a gas/liquid disconnect. Bang your kegs are clean/sani'd in ~10 mins.
 
A couple websites I've seen put the sankes in the commercial brewery section, and there's been a warning that they're not intended for homebrewing as there is not a way to sanitize them, and commercial breweries have special equipment? The videos I've seen show how to take them apart and throw some star san in and away you go...what's the purpose for the warning? The opening is smaller?
 
A couple websites I've seen put the sankes in the commercial brewery section, and there's been a warning that they're not intended for homebrewing as there is not a way to sanitize them, and commercial breweries have special equipment? The videos I've seen show how to take them apart and throw some star san in and away you go...what's the purpose for the warning? The opening is smaller?
Complete and utter BS.......I've been using them for years...They never leak air so there is minimal chance for infection. Cleaning is a simple rinse just to get the crud out that settled on the bottom...If I feel I had some sort of infection I'll do a couple hour Oxyclean soak for piece of mind...simple as pie
 
I found a site that has standard drop-in D system sixtels for $90 and they have threaded D system sixtels for $5 more. My impression is the threaded ones would be easier to take on and off?

The threaded one's are awesome. A wonderbar fits the lugs perfectly to remove the spear, no specialty tools, lots of leverage. I had trouble with the safety latch on my first one and removed it, no problems since.
 

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