How's my water look?

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Neptune

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So I finally got a reply from my water district. Here's what they said:
... This is from our most recent TE6 analysis which was performed in July of 2014. Hardness is measured as CaCO3.

Hardness 54.4 ppm
Na 59 ppm
Chloride 51 ppm
Sulfate 6 ppm
Calcium 15 ppm
Magnesium 4.1 ppm

Any concerns here?
 
They don't tell you the alkalinity which is the most important parameter to the brewer. Here it is about 100. Thus your water is pretty typical of east coast municipal water except that the sodium is a bit high (don't worry about it). You can be guided by the reams of posts concerning water pretty similar to this one that you can find by reading back in the post history a bit.
 
I finally got an answer that alkalinity is 110. So...

Hardness 54.4 ppm
Na 59 ppm
Chloride 51 ppm
Sulfate 6 ppm
Calcium 15 ppm
Magnesium 4.1 ppm
Alkalinity 110

Now, excuse my ignorance if this is way off, but it looks like I can calculate my HCO3 to be 133 based on the equation in the bru'n water page referenced previously (Alkalinity/0.83).

So I put this into brewers friend water calculator and it looks like adding some gypsum to my water would help get me to my target levels... Also, if I understand correctly, I can add some acid malt to my mash. Am I on the right track here?
 
I finally got an answer that alkalinity is 110. So...
... my guess of 100 wasn't too bad.

Now, excuse my ignorance if this is way off, but it looks like I can calculate my HCO3 to be 133 based on the equation in the bru'n water page referenced previously (Alkalinity/0.83).
Alkalinity of 110 --> 110/50 = 2.2 mEq/L --> 2.2*61 = 134 mg/L bicarbonate but you don't really care what the bicarbonate is. You need to know the alkalinity in units of mEq/L. About 90% of that is the amount of acid you would need to 'neutralize' the bicarbonate in the water

So I put this into brewers friend water calculator and it looks like adding some gypsum to my water would help get me to my target levels...
Gypsum and calcium chloride have limited ability to neutralize alkalinity by reacting with malt phytin.

Also, if I understand correctly, I can add some acid malt to my mash. Am I on the right track here?
For more dramatic control you need acid from dark grains, a bottle, or sauermalz. It can really be quite simple. See the Primer here for hints on how to get started.
 
Sorry to keep bumping this thread, but I'm still trying to figure it out.

Does 4% acidulated malt in the grain bill seem reasonable (pale ale/IPA type beer)? It's either that or add 12 ml of lactic acid to my 15 gallons. Are one of these options better than the other?

I used the brewers friend calculator with my water profile and this seems to be the recommendation. Just trying to make sure I'm in the right ballpark. Thanks!
 
I've found that the advanced water calculator in brewer's friend is quite accurate. My pH readings usually match the predicted value. 4% is reasonable. I usually only need ~2% in my recipes, but perhaps you are using only very pale malt. (Specialty malts can lower the pH) I recall using a half pound in a Belgian tripel that was 100% pils malt.
 
Sorry to keep bumping this thread, but I'm still trying to figure it out.

Does 4% acidulated malt in the grain bill seem reasonable (pale ale/IPA type beer)? It's either that or add 12 ml of lactic acid to my 15 gallons. Are one of these options better than the other?

I used the brewers friend calculator with my water profile and this seems to be the recommendation. Just trying to make sure I'm in the right ballpark. Thanks!

Either will work but I prefer the Latic acid approach as long as you have a syringe that can measure accurately.
 
Does 4% acidulated malt in the grain bill seem reasonable (pale ale/IPA type beer)? It's either that or add 12 ml of lactic acid to my 15 gallons. Are one of these options better than the other?
That's like asking if one should buy an iPhone or an Android.

Sauermalz is very easy to measure out as you are measuring out specialty grain anyway. It's major advantage to many is that it is a specialty malt in its own right. It adds desirable but subtle flavors to lager beers. One might also argue that it is more traditional than acid from a bottle.

Lactic acid from a bottle is more predictable than sauermalz. 88% lactic will always be 11.3 N to pH 5.4. It does not impart any nuanced flavors and is more difficult to measure. You'll need a pipet, syringes, a volumetric flask or mixing cylinder. These things need to be cleaned. It is not traditional but then sauermalz isn't traditional for an ale either.

Four percent sauermalz is a perfectly reasonable level.
 
That's like asking if one should buy an iPhone or an Android.

Sauermalz is very easy to measure out as you are measuring out specialty grain anyway. It's major advantage to many is that it is a specialty malt in its own right. It adds desirable but subtle flavors to lager beers. One might also argue that it is more traditional than acid from a bottle.

Lactic acid from a bottle is more predictable than sauermalz. 88% lactic will always be 11.3 N to pH 5.4. It does not impart any nuanced flavors and is more difficult to measure. You'll need a pipet, syringes, a volumetric flask or mixing cylinder. These things need to be cleaned. It is not traditional but then sauermalz isn't traditional for an ale either.

Four percent sauermalz is a perfectly reasonable level.

Agreed, but I do think you should always have latic acid on hand regardless....you never know when you might get a high pH reading during mash and need to adjust it on the fly. ;)
 

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