How to use Sanke mashtun?

[aeviaanah]

I just finished building my Sanke mashtun/boilpot...i also built a hop spider which is self explanatory. Ive brewed a few batches using BIAB. Can someone help me out with the best way to use this thing?

Do i just crack the valve during mash out?

 

[badbrew]

That's a cool spider. I don't know if that screen is big enough to mash without plugging or caving in. You'll have to test it to be sure.

 

[Golddiggie]

That's a really small false bottom if that's supposed to be the mash tun. Typically you use a full 15" diameter (folding) false bottom in a keggle mash tun. At least I do. I got mine from NorCal and couldn't be happier with it. Chances are that small false bottom will shift on you enough, or lift, and you'll get grain under it that then gets stuck in the dip tube. In other words, a world of frustration and pain.

BTW, you usually have a mash tun AND boil keggle. Not try to use the same vessel for both.

 

[Nightshade]

Can we get some better images of the sparge arm? Not sure I am understanding your design on it.


How to use it? Well load it up with grain, heat some water and make some beer without a bag.

 

[aeviaanah]

That's a cool spider. I don't know if that screen is big enough to mash without plugging or caving in. You'll have to test it to be sure.

Thanks man!

That's a really small false bottom if that's supposed to be the mash tun. Typically you use a full 15" diameter (folding) false bottom in a keggle mash tun. At least I do. I got mine from NorCal and couldn't be happier with it. Chances are that small false bottom will shift on you enough, or lift, and you'll get grain under it that then gets stuck in the dip tube. In other words, a world of frustration and pain.

BTW, you usually have a mash tun AND boil keggle. Not try to use the same vessel for both.

I see. There is pressure from the dip tube to the false bottom, I fabricated it this way. I could make it with hinge to make a larger. The false bottom will not lift or move as it is welded to dip tube, as i tighten the compression fitting it forces the screen towards the bottom of the keg.

Can we get some better images of the sparge arm? Not sure I am understanding your design on it.


How to use it? Well load it up with grain, heat some water and make some beer without a bag.

Havent figured the sparge arm yet. Im still working on that, any ideas?

I was under the impression i could use boil pot and mashtun all in one go....maybe not?

 

[Golddiggie]

Thanks man!

I see. There is pressure from the dip tube to the false bottom, I fabricated it this way. I could make it with hinge to make a larger. The false bottom will not lift or move as it is welded to dip tube, as i tighten the compression fitting it forces the screen towards the bottom of the keg.

Havent figured the sparge arm yet. Im still working on that, any ideas?

I was under the impression i could use boil pot and mashtun all in one go....maybe not?

Mash tun and boil keggles are separate items. If you don't you're looking at extending the time to brew by at least 30 minutes to an hour while you clean the mash tun of all the grain that's in it.

IMO, you're being so clever, you're being foolish. IMO, welding the dip tube to the false bottom is a big bad idea. You're over complicating things by trying to be clever.

I can already see the posts after you brew a time, or two, and see how hard it is. Especially if you get to see how someone with a normal keggle mash tun and boil keggle do it.

BTW, that hop spider does look small. I hope you don't plan to use a lot of hops in each batch.

 

[Nightshade]

Sparge arms are real simple, here is the one from the 3bbl system I run

http://instagr.am/p/TXL9PJuyXH/

It is approx a 1/2" pipe with 3 slots at the bottom and a flat disc that the water fans off of at the bottom. Spread is based on water pressure and flow.

Like I said super simple and you could set it up similiar to how your hop spider is suspended then depending on how you manage your water you could use a funnel or just drop a hose off a pump to get the water in it and manage it with a valve.

 

[acidrain]

I think you will be disappointed when it comes time to clean the grain out of the false bottom.
I use a Sanke direct fired mash tun as well, but my false bottom sits flat on the bottom (slightly elevated by the radius). Also, mine is bottom draining, so when it's time to dump the grains, that's literally what I do... pick the whole thing up, dump it in the garbage, and retrieve the false bottom. Makes it easy to clean.
Also, did you plan on boiling on top of your false bottom?

 

[aeviaanah]

I was confused last night. I built a boil pot not a mashtun.
The hop spider was designed both for my 7 gal aluminum pot and sanke. The length was limited by the aluminum pot. Ill be making a larger one for sanke.

I followed this tutorial a bit.
http://hoppybrewing.com/2008/03/10/...anke-12-bbl-15-gallon-keg-into-a-boil-kettle/

 

[badbrew]

Boil keggle looks great. Mine is nearly the same but my tube doesn't press down good enough on the bottom to keep junk from coming through on the sides.

 

[Golddiggie]

False bottoms are NOT needed in boil keggles, especially when you have a hop spider.

 

[aeviaanah]

Boil keggle looks great. Mine is nearly the same but my tube doesn't press down good enough on the bottom to keep junk from coming through on the sides.

Thanks man...I set my false bottom 1/4 lower (on the dip tube) then where it rested freely. When i tighten the compression fitting, the tube manifold forces against the screen pushing towards the bottom of the keg.

False bottoms are NOT needed in boil keggles, especially when you have a hop spider.

The false bottom can be removed from dip tube quiet easily. Thanks for the input.

 

[Golddiggie]

Thanks man...I set my false bottom 1/4 lower (on the dip tube) then where it rested freely. When i tighten the compression fitting, the tube manifold forces against the screen pushing towards the bottom of the keg.


The false bottom can be removed from dip tube quiet easily. Thanks for the input.

Didn't you weld the dip tube to the false bottom?? Welds are permanent (or should be if done right).

 

[aeviaanah]

Didn't you weld the dip tube to the false bottom?? Welds are permanent (or should be if done right).

Yes but i can cut it off. I work with metal for a living...

 

[Golddiggie]

Yes but i can cut it off. I work with metal for a living...

Ooookay... I have tools that I know how to use too (including a welder). IMO, it's more hassle to break a weld that you made. I would just bend another dip tube to use.

 

[aeviaanah]

Ooookay... I have tools that I know how to use too (including a welder). IMO, it's more hassle to break a weld that you made. I would just bend another dip tube to use.

The compression fitting on the dip tube is a 20 dollar item and the 'compression' part of it is non removable...I can have dip tube cut off and sanded and polished in less than 5 minutes.

 

[Golddiggie]

The compression fitting on the dip tube is a 20 dollar item and the 'compression' part of it is non removable...I can have dip tube cut off and sanded and polished in less than 5 minutes.

That's where you went the wrong way too. You can use 1/2" ID silicone o-rings or Delrin sleeves under the nut to create the seal. NO need to use the stainless compression ferrules. Bargain Fittings has the Delrin parts for $0.25 each. The o-rings are even less per item (at most, you use two).

 

[aeviaanah]

I wasn't aware of Delrin sleeves... Thanks

 

[Golddiggie]

I wasn't aware of Delrin sleeves... Thanks

I wasn't either, until I saw them on the Bargain Fittings site. But, I know the use of o-rings has been posted many times on the boards. If it was me, I'd just get another nut (or if the tubing is cheap enough, cut it to recover the nut) and bend a new dip tube. Should take you less than 5 minutes there. Hell, I can cut a tube, and bend it, in less time with less than professional level tools (which you probably have).

I think McMaster-Carr also has the nuts available for purchase by themselves. Might be worth looking into if you're planning on doing more than a few of these. Or to have some 'spares' on hand.

 

[Darkness]

I use a keg mash tun and run it different. My drain is straight out the bottom to a pump, you will see a huge difference in a hinged false bottom in the flow of mash Liquid. Also check a local HVAC supply house for sheet Armaflex to insulate with. Industrial Velcro on two seams and it comes right off

 

[Golddiggie]

I use a keg mash tun and run it different. My drain is straight out the bottom to a pump, you will see a huge difference in a hinged false bottom in the flow of mash Liquid. Also check a local HVAC supply house for sheet Armaflex to insulate with. Industrial Velcro on two seams and it comes right off

Direct fire (propane burner) or electrically heated?

 

[mscott5205]

False bottoms are NOT needed in boil keggles, especially when you have a hop spider.

I would say the opposite. Hop spiders are not needed when you have a false bottom in your keggle.

 

[Golddiggie]

I would say the opposite. Hop spiders are not needed when you have a false bottom in your keggle.

A nylon mesh bag will contain pellet hops far better than the larger hole sized false bottoms (which are designed for use with grain). Maybe the FB will work with whole hops, but so will the spider. Just use the right size bag and you're fine. I've been using the same size that people use for grain bags with the BIAB method. Holds a LOT of hop matter that way. Zero issues with over 7oz (dry weight) of pellet hop matter.

 

[conneryis007]

I love my false bottom in my boil keggle! I don't use a hop spider. I do however use only whole hops. The hops and false bottom work together when recirculating at the end of the boil to filter the beer including most of the break material!

Sounds like you have the tools and know-how, I would just copy the jay-bird design for a false bottom that is 15", including his neat support stand that acts as a second layer of filtering. Don't weld dip-tube and false bottom as talked about above.

 

[badbrew]

I would say the opposite. Hop spiders are not needed when you have a false bottom in your keggle.

kinda sorta maybe. I have had some good luck and some stuck plugs. Pale ales yes, ipa's no.

 

[Darkness]

Direct fire (propane burner) or electrically heated?

Elec rims tube love it. Dose a great job

 

[Golddiggie]

Elec rims tube love it. Dose a great job

Thought so... Bottom drain isn't a viable option for those of us with direct fire (propane burners) mash tuns.

 

[Darkness]

No definitely not. But for me 1/2in drain straight down to the pump can't beat it. The person who started this asked for Idea's for Mash Tun's so therefor my post

 

[Transamguy77]

That looks like the same false bottom I used in my keggle mash tun, I used 1/2" rigid copper pipe for my dip tube and used a brass fitting on the bottom to just go through the false bottom and so far no problems. I built the same dip tube for my keggle BK. you could use yours for both but not at the same time.

 

[aeviaanah]

That looks like the same false bottom I used in my keggle mash tun, I used 1/2" rigid copper pipe for my dip tube and used a brass fitting on the bottom to just go through the false bottom and so far no problems. I built the same dip tube for my keggle BK. you could use yours for both but not at the same time.

Id have to mash and transfer to a container, clean out keg and transfer back to keg. Is a sparge arm necessary? Can I just heat sparge water and slowly dump over grain bed?

 

[Golddiggie]

Id have to mash and transfer to a container, clean out keg and transfer back to keg. Is a sparge arm necessary? Can I just heat sparge water and slowly dump over grain bed?

Look up batch sparging... The only 'arm' typically involved is the one connected to your shoulder. Some dump/pour into the mash tun. Others use a fitting and use hose to run the sparge water.