How to lager properly

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Aracer

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So, after fermenting for 3 weeks at 55 F, Do I have to lower the temperature to 32 degrees (could be 40?) or so for about 4 to 6 weeks? After this step, I´ll put the priming sugar (5gr/lt) and bottling. At what temp and for how long should I keep the bottles?
 
  • Ferment cold. (Or whatever fermentation schedule you deem appropriate)
  • Warm for a short diacetyl rest.
  • Bottle.
  • Carbonate warm for however long is needed.
  • Lager. As long as it takes for the yeast to drop and flavor to become acceptable for drinking.
 
So, after fermenting for 3 weeks at 55 F, Do I have to lower the temperature to 32 degrees (could be 40?) or so for about 4 to 6 weeks? After this step, I´ll put the priming sugar (5gr/lt) and bottling. At what temp and for how long should I keep the bottles?

I believe the word lager comes from German and means to store. When lagers were first made heating and cooling of buildings was not very well controlled so to keep the beer from freezing or from getting too warm in summer so it was stored in caves which were a more even temperature. The main point is to store the lagers long enough for the yeast to drop out making the lager very clear and without off flavors. Since we now have ways to control temperatures we speed up the process by storing the lagers very cool as they clear out faster that way. You could store the lagers at 55 or 60 and they would clear but much slower so colder is better as long as you don't let them freeze. I don't trust the temperature controllers so I would store between 35 and 40.
 
I believe the word lager comes from German and means to store. When lagers were first made heating and cooling of buildings was not very well controlled so to keep the beer from freezing or from getting too warm in summer so it was stored in caves which were a more even temperature. The main point is to store the lagers long enough for the yeast to drop out making the lager very clear and without off flavors. Since we now have ways to control temperatures we speed up the process by storing the lagers very cool as they clear out faster that way. You could store the lagers at 55 or 60 and they would clear but much slower so colder is better as long as you don't let them freeze. I don't trust the temperature controllers so I would store between 35 and 40.
+1 on not letting them freeze. I lager in a small mini fridge with my temp probe in the air. I find if I set the temp to 35, I have a frozen beer icicle. 42'ish is my new go-to.

Although I can also say that my frozen beer icicle still tasted delicious when I thawed it out and drank it
 
What I do is pitch and ferment at 53f . I check in about 5-6 days and I'm looking for about 75% completion . This is why a tilt is in my future. I can know where it's at without taking beer out . Once its 75% I bump up the temp 3-4 degrees a day until its 66f. Hold for 3 days then drop temp 3-4 degrees a day until its 38f. Then I keg. My last lager was brewed in March and lagered till end of Sept. Turned out really nice .
 
My preferred process:

1. Very high pitching rate. 1.5 million cells per mL per °P at minimum, often more than that

2. Have yeast around, chill wort to, and pitch at 48F.

3. Set fermentation to 50F

4. When about 50% done free rise to 55F.

5. When 75% done, free rise to 67F.

6. When 90% done, cap with spunding valve set to 15 PSI.

7. Hold at 67F until the beer clears a force diacetyl test, *never* an arbitrary time like "three days". Depending on what generation of yeast, it can take more or less time.

8. After it clears diacetyl, drop 4F per day down to 32F.

9. Meanwhile when it hits 51F, I drop the yeast (using a conical, but I wouldn't actually rack to a secondary, so if you don't have a conical I'd just leave it on the yeast)

10. After three days at 32F, fine it (biofine, gelatine, whatever).

11. Package after an additional 4 days (or drop the cone again).

Important that all the crashing happens under pressure. If your primary fermenter can't handle pressure and racking to a keg isn't an option (which I'm assuming is the case based on your intent to bottle), the above advice to bottle at the end of d-rest and then chill the bottles down when carbonated and lager in the bottles is what I would do.

I also take gravity readings every single day until I cap/spund it. And then force diacetyl tests daily once it hits its temp.

I'm generally ~4 week turnaround, grain to glass, on lagers.
 
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