There are several factors that they have that work in their favor:
They have big glycol-jacketed conical tanks. You can get smaller versions of these as a homebrewer if you have the megabucks to spend on Blichmann bling bling and a refrigerator big enough to maintain good temp control. Even then, the osmotic pressure in a 15bbl+ tank will allow for warmer fermentation temperatures while producing the same ester profile. Many commercial breweries on the west coast ferment their ales at 72-74*F with ester levels that are about the same for a homebrewer using a similar yeast at 66-68*F. You can mimick this effect at home by fermenting in Sanke kegs (see the
pressure fermentation thread). I have done it, and I can confirm it works, even for lagers. Something else you can do, is warm the beer to the mid 70's at the end of fermentation so it will condition more quickly. Think of it as a diacetyl rest, even for ales. After conditioning, the tanks allow them to crash cool the beer to around 32*F to drop out the yeast. If you have a good fridge you can do this but it will take longer for the yeast to settle out due to the geometry of a carboy/bucket.
Another factor, is they pitch lots of yeast, and most often, the yeast is a house strain which has fermented many batches of the same beer before under the same conditions. The yeast we pitch as homebrewers is used to the lab conditions where it was stored and propagated
, and most of us do not pitch at the same rate as commercial breweries. Even if you pitch at the same rate as a commercial brewery, we homebrewers don't brew several batches a week of the same beer, and keep re-pitching the same yeast over and over into the same wort. The yeast will simply take longer to do their job.
Don't forget that probably 90% of the commercial breweries filter their beer. This is especially true for breweries that bottle condition their beers, since they almost always filter out the primary yeast and re-pitch a bottle conditioning strain. If a beer has been properly conditioned on the yeast for 2-3 weeks, filtering the beer and force carbonating it (which I frequently do) results in a bright beer that is ready to drink about 2 weeks earlier than an unfiltered beer. The breweries that don't filter their beers almost always use a highly flocculant strain such as WLP007 as their house yeast.