How much is too much power for a BK?

[Ryan_M]

I'll try to keep this short. I'm new. Plan to do electric brewing in my basement. I'm just getting my gear together to start brewing 5 gal. batches. I never considered the power requirements for bringing ~6.5 gal. of wort to a boil. So I'm looking at buying a kettle and adding a HWT element.

I've done a lot of searching and most people doing these kind of conversions are doing 10+ gal. and are worried about the minimum power required. I was looking at putting a 4500W element in a ~8 gal. kettle. Is there an issues with that? I think I saw a 3500W version along the way if that is better.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

[mabrungard]

Having a high power capacity is important during wort heating since that speeds the time to boiling. But once boiling is achieved, you will need to dial back the power substantially. I have 5500w in my kettle and typically boil about 7 gal of wort. My Auber controller is set at 100% while heating, but I have to turn that down to around 20 to 30% for the duration of the boil.

Using a really small element that can supply only as much as required to produce a boil will mean that it takes a long time to bring the kettle to a boil. Your choice.

I recommend installing as much power as your electrical wiring can handle and use a good power modulator.

 

[Chanoc]

Make sure watt density is low to avoid scorching the wort

 

[Staticsouls]

I use 2 2000w 120v hwd camcos in a sanke keg, and have had no issues with 6 batches starting boil volume of 7.5 gallons. Didnt take much more time than propane. When doing 10 gallon batches its a bit slower, but still gets there. I have each element plugged into different 20amp circuits, and leave them full blast for the entire boil no controller. For 5g batches I think you could get away using two 1500w elements, but it will take longer.

 

[Ryan_M]

Thanks for the reply.

Since I posted this, I've picked myself up two 10gal kettles. I found Camco 4500W LWD elements that will just fit in my kettles and the price looks good too. I also leaned that I can control them with variable SSRs so I don't have to drive them full bore all the time - initially I thought it would be an on/off affair.

Another question though, I was going to run a 30A 240V service to my brew area. Gives some headroom for a 5500W element if I get into 10gal batches. But I can only run one kettle at a time. I can't think of a reason to need to operate both the BK and HLT at the same time. Is that correct?

Thanks!

 

[Ryan_M]

Hmmm... my post went missing....

Thanks for the replies BTW.

Ryan

 

[doug293cz]

Hmmm... my post went missing....

Thanks for the replies BTW.

Ryan

Your post got held in the Moderator's queue. This happens for new members under some conditions. I have approved the post, and it is no longer MIA. I'm going to edit the duplicate information out of the second post.

doug293cz
HBT Moderator

 

[doug293cz]

Thanks for the reply.

Since I posted this, I've picked myself up two 10gal kettles. I found Camco 4500W LWD elements that will just fit in my kettles and the price looks good too. I also leaned that I can control them with variable SSRs so I don't have to drive them full bore all the time - initially I thought it would be an on/off affair.

Another question though, I was going to run a 30A 240V service to my brew area. Gives some headroom for a 5500W element if I get into 10gal batches. But I can only run one kettle at a time. I can't think of a reason to need to operate both the BK and HLT at the same time. Is that correct?

Thanks!

You might want to consider paying a little more for all stainless steel (including the base) elements. People have found the generic non-SS elements' bases rust. Not a good thing in a HLT of BK.

Brew on

 

[lschiavo]

http://manskirtbrewing.com/calculators.aspx

Here are a few calculators. The last one may be helpful to you.

 

[Ryan_M]

Thanks for the clarification on the missing post Doug, And thanks for the heads up! I just assumed they would be all stainless construction since they are designed to be in contact with water. I'll read more carefully.

 

[processhead]

Thanks for the clarification on the missing post Doug, And thanks for the heads up! I just assumed they would be all stainless construction since they are designed to be in contact with water. I'll read more carefully.

Definitely not the case. Most elements are for water heater applications and not for beverage processing and potable water use.

That said, many brewers are using them and brewing great beers.
The all stainless elements are out there, just not as common.