Beer Viking
Beer Lover
I was going to get some more beer kits, but after browsing this site I'm pretty excited and I want to try making wort from scratch. How big of a pot would I need to boil 5 Canadian gallon batches ( or 70 bottles)?
How big of a cooking pot do I need to boil 5 Canadian Gallons?
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i'd say somewhere around a 1/3rd bigger then final volume? i used a 7.5 gallon pot for 5 US gallons, and a 15 for 10 gallon batches.....
OP
OP
Beer Viking
Beer Lover
Thanks that really helps me out!
and depending on how you plan on mashing, a cooler the same size as the batch....i'm not familiar with BIAB, so if that's the way your going they'd have to help....
OP
OP
Beer Viking
Beer Lover
I've never made beer other then with a beer kit. What is mashing and why would I need a cooler?
before i answer....you have to answer a captcha, to make sure you're not a troll.....nah, just kidding...
being that i don't have a life...you need a cooler to maintain temp between 145f-158f for an hour to convert the starch in 'malted barley, oats or wheat' to sugar......, and it need to be modified in a way so that you can strain the water away from the mash grains, that should have been crushed......
if you want all grain i use a ball valve on one of these, https://www.ebay.com/i/132012269400...T05jAoG9eRgnxNC_zS6dYhZaCH0m7RBhoC-BcQAvD_BwE
and one of these to strain, i'm sure you could figure out the in's and out's of how to put it together.....
https://www.homebrewing.org/12-Stai...TB2d8VpcNnbJf4PS1w-qS1yRwYzLaC9hoCTwIQAvD_BwE
and search sparging, i was once new also, and just let it go full bore.....you need to do it slow!!!
edit #2: my god, i haven't had THAT much to drink yet have i? lol
edit: and as you can tell i'm my a good writer, and there are books to read on it....writen by people whop know how to write....
being that i don't have a life...you need a cooler to maintain temp between 145f-158f for an hour to convert the starch in 'malted barley, oats or wheat' to sugar......, and it need to be modified in a way so that you can strain the water away from the mash grains, that should have been crushed......
if you want all grain i use a ball valve on one of these, https://www.ebay.com/i/132012269400...T05jAoG9eRgnxNC_zS6dYhZaCH0m7RBhoC-BcQAvD_BwE
and one of these to strain, i'm sure you could figure out the in's and out's of how to put it together.....
https://www.homebrewing.org/12-Stai...TB2d8VpcNnbJf4PS1w-qS1yRwYzLaC9hoCTwIQAvD_BwE
and search sparging, i was once new also, and just let it go full bore.....you need to do it slow!!!
edit #2: my god, i haven't had THAT much to drink yet have i? lol
edit: and as you can tell i'm my a good writer, and there are books to read on it....writen by people whop know how to write....
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OP
OP
Beer Viking
Beer Lover
Can you buy malt that has already had the starch converted into sugar, or do you defiantly need a cooler?
Would I be able to just boil milled malt and hops, strain it off and throw on some yeast when it's in the primary fermenter?
Would I be able to just boil milled malt and hops, strain it off and throw on some yeast when it's in the primary fermenter?
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You don't have to mash yet! LoL!! Look for the particular extract you will need to complete your intended recipe. You need to have a recipe...often it gives you the grain bill which you will be able to convert or match up To an already mashed extract. To answer what size pot you'll need, I would say it would need to be a 15 gallon one. There are recipes on this forum, so if you know what you are looking for, flavor wise, more than likely can find one there.
Extract is grain that has been mashed for you.
Extract is grain that has been mashed for you.
Malt that has been converted is called...wait for it...malt extract. Milling the grain doesn’t convert the starches into fermentable sugars. That’s what you do during the all grain brewing process.
You can do brew in a bag (BIAB) or 2 or 3 vessel brewing. No matter the method, the process is the same: Soak milled grains in hot (145-155°) water for about an hour in a vessel called the Mash Lauter Tun. (this is called “mashing”) Drain the liquid (called wort) away into your boil kettle, add more water to the mash tun (this is called “sparging”) and add that to the boil kettle. When all of the wort has been collected, the process becomes, essentially, the same as extract brewing.
If doing BIAB, the grain is contained in a mesh bag and the grain is removed from the kettle after all the water has been added, and as much of the sugars collected as possible. The wort is then boiled in the same kettle that the mash was done in. Either way, you are controlling the process of converting starch to sugar.
All grain brewing might sound complicated, but it really isn’t. There are more steps in the process than extract brewing but the brewer has more control over the process and, thus, the finished product.
As far as I am aware, there isn't any such thing as a Canadian gallon.
There are 2 standard measurements for a gallon: The US gallon, and the Imperial gallon.
Imperial gallon = 1.2 x US gallons
US Gallon = 3.785 liters
Imperial Gallon = 4.546 liters
Whatever pot you use, should be at least 20% bigger than the boil volume (watch for boil over), although you can get away with 10% if you use some foam control agent.
If it is an extract recipe, you can boil a smaller volume with the extract and add make-up water in the fermenter.
There are 2 standard measurements for a gallon: The US gallon, and the Imperial gallon.
Imperial gallon = 1.2 x US gallons
US Gallon = 3.785 liters
Imperial Gallon = 4.546 liters
Whatever pot you use, should be at least 20% bigger than the boil volume (watch for boil over), although you can get away with 10% if you use some foam control agent.
If it is an extract recipe, you can boil a smaller volume with the extract and add make-up water in the fermenter.
i'm still thinking...'captcha'.....but yes you can buy malt that's been converted, that's what you were doing with the kits.....if you want to make your own wort from scratch, yes you need to mash one way or the other......(or maybe invent a 100% crystal malt beer!!!, good thinking!! i like new thoughts....
)edit: now i'm thinking, like soak malt for a couple hours then put it in the oven at 150f for until dry, crush and see how it goes
My speculation was based on the 70 bottle output
5 gallons = 2 cases
10 gallons = 4 cases
The rest is for head space and room to grow
5 gallons = 2 cases
10 gallons = 4 cases
The rest is for head space and room to grow
he wants to make his own wort 'from scratch'......
Not if he wants all the sugars already out of the grains...lol
jrgtr42
Well-Known Member
7.5 gallons is just barely enough for a 5 gallon batch - you'll want to have about 6.5 gallons pre-boil, and you'll get foaming as it comes up. 8 gallons is safer, and 10 is ideal.
I presume you're an extract brewer?
If you choose to go all grain, the extra space will be even better, especially if you go with Brew in a Bag - which is everything in one pot - there's lots of threads about it if you want.
as far as the question - malting barley does convert starch to sugar, but you still need to soak it (mash) to get it out of the kernels and dissolved into your water.
You can't just boil the malt - again science - but you won't get the right kind of stuff dissolved out if you bring it over certain temps.
I recommend reading a couple books about it - John Palmer's How To Brew; there's the first edition available to read for free online, but he's made a lot of updates over the years, so I do recommend buying the latest version to keep on hand.
Also, Charlie Papazian's Complete Joy of Homebrewing.
Both are (IMO) essential to any brewer - Palmer is more scientific, by the numbers, and Charlie is more of a 'feel' guy, but they both bring a lot to the bartop.
I presume you're an extract brewer?
If you choose to go all grain, the extra space will be even better, especially if you go with Brew in a Bag - which is everything in one pot - there's lots of threads about it if you want.
as far as the question - malting barley does convert starch to sugar, but you still need to soak it (mash) to get it out of the kernels and dissolved into your water.
You can't just boil the malt - again science - but you won't get the right kind of stuff dissolved out if you bring it over certain temps.
I recommend reading a couple books about it - John Palmer's How To Brew; there's the first edition available to read for free online, but he's made a lot of updates over the years, so I do recommend buying the latest version to keep on hand.
Also, Charlie Papazian's Complete Joy of Homebrewing.
Both are (IMO) essential to any brewer - Palmer is more scientific, by the numbers, and Charlie is more of a 'feel' guy, but they both bring a lot to the bartop.
OP
OP
Beer Viking
Beer Lover
Thanks for all of the information everyone. Since I'm new at this I'm just going to try brewing with malt extract. Once I have that down I'll get into the more complicated stuff.
What is a good website where I can order malt extract? Also, most 5 gallon recipes seem to use around 10 lbs of malt. How many lbs of malt extract would be used in a 5 gallon batch? How many lbs would be used if I used LME instead?
What is a good website where I can order malt extract? Also, most 5 gallon recipes seem to use around 10 lbs of malt. How many lbs of malt extract would be used in a 5 gallon batch? How many lbs would be used if I used LME instead?
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jrgtr42
Well-Known Member
A good route to take, especially if you're just starting out.
get the procedures for the boil and fermentation down before making the jump it's not harder, really, but it's that much more that you have to pay attention to.
I like to say that making beer is like making soup - (not counting the fermentation) but toss stuff in a pot at the right times you get something good. Extract is buying broth, all-grain is like making your own broth.
One thing I found when brewing extract is to put half in early in the boil, the other half almost at the end. it seemed to work better that way, and you get less darkening of the beer past what would be "ideal" for the style.
Can't answer the first part - I know a bunch here in The States, but I don't know if they ship to Canada.
for the second, most of the cans I got of liquid extract were in 3.3LB sizes, I'd usually use 2 of those in a brew, or about 6 pounds dry.
\ It'll depend on the beer, and how strong it is supposed to end up. Some lighter ones can go with just a few pounds, others 10 pounds or more. For all grain I have ones using 12-ish up to about 20 pounds of malt -
McKnuckle
Well-Known Member
I see your in BC. I would recommend a web search for local home brew supply. There are backlogs and shipping delays with a few of the larger home brew supply stores right now. Just a quick websearch came up with https://barleyshomebrewing.com/
if you haven't already, check out John Palmers How to Brew. It explains a lot and is broken down so simpletons like myself can comprehend it.
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