Hop pairings for enigma

[7isntmostrandomnr]

Hi, I want to test the enigma hop as i've heard it gives off a kind of raspberry flavor and aroma. I'm however worried about this hop being able to stand on its own in an IPA I am considering making. I think I'll go with WLP648 for an all brett fermentation, leading to a slightly sour and fruity yeast flavor. I think this sourness would work well with the raspberry flavor. I'm thinking that a Citrus hop would probably work well with the Enigma, but I'm having trouble deciding about one. At the moment I'm favoring Amarillo, but I hope some of you guys have some experience or insight on the matter.

Thanks.

 

[7isntmostrandomnr]

Alright,
I'm going to attempt to brew this tomorrow I hope:

For 10 liters (approx. 2.5 gal)


FERMENTABLES (1.060 OG)

88% Maris Otter 2.5kg
9% Flaked Barley 250g
4% Crystal 60L 100g


HOPS:

FWH: Amarillo 25g (60 IBU)
FLAMEOUT: Amarillo 10g
FLAMEOUT: Enigma 25g
DRY HOP: Amarillo 15g
DRY HOP: Enigma 25g


YEAST: US-05 in one batch and WLP648 in another batch.


Mash at 66C for 1 hour, boil for 1 hour.

I will split the batches into two 5 liter batches and do one with US-05 and the other one with WLP648 for an all brett experiment.

 

[7isntmostrandomnr]

This went really well. One of the best IPA's I've ever made for sure. Getting alot of passion fruit from this hop combo. I have a 25 liter batch going at the moment as well, since the 5 liters was gone pretty fast.

 

[lasultana]

How did that 25 L batch turn out?
Can you describe Enigma more?

 

[BD_Mich]

Hi i tried american red ale with 55 IBU (litlle bit out of style) for 27l

Enigma (16%) 25g 60min
Enigma (16%) 25g 20min
Amarillo (9,1%) 20g whirlpool
Amarillo (9,1%) 65g dry hop 5 days
Enigma (16%) 50g dry hop 5 days

Now I feel very intensive dry bitterness back in throat. I think that Enigma on start of boil couse it. Do you have some experience? I want to replace it with Centennial and decrease IBU on 40. Like this:

Centennial (9.,6%) 25g 60min
Enigma (16%) 25g 20min
Amarillo (9,1%) 20g whirlpool
Amarillo (9,1%) 65g dry hop 5 days
Enigma (16%) 50g dry hop 5 days

 

[thehaze]

I only used Enigma for late boil additions ( less than minutes in the boil ), whirlpool at around 145F and dry hopping. It went well with Motueka, Idaho 7 and El Dorado.

 

[couchsending]

The intensive dry bitterness in the back of the throat is not from using them in the boil or at certain temps it’s from the polyphenols. Aussie hops have lots more that American hops and you need to mitigate it somehow to not get that intense astringency/bitterness/harshness. Vic Secret can be horrific. A small amount of finings or Lagering as close to 32 for a few days will help. And don’t worry your beer will still be hazy and not lose it’s juiciness. Using Aussie hops generally results in almost permanent haze if used with certain yeasts.

 

[MotoGP1000]

I g

The intensive dry bitterness in the back of the throat is not from using them in the boil or at certain temps it’s from the polyphenols. Aussie hops have lots more that American hops and you need to mitigate it somehow to not get that intense astringency/bitterness/harshness. Vic Secret can be horrific. A small amount of finings or Lagering as close to 32 for a few days will help. And don’t worry your beer will still be hazy and not lose it’s juiciness. Using Aussie hops generally results in almost permanent haze if used with certain yeasts.

I get this from all my neipa brews and I’ve been trying to figure it out. The only thing that has worked for me so fAr is bagging all my hops so no hop sedimanet is left over. But I lose some of the utilization. I welcome other suggestions. Any idea how the bigger nano breweries are doing it?

 

[couchsending]

I g


I get this from all my neipa brews and I’ve been trying to figure it out. The only thing that has worked for me so fAr is bagging all my hops so no hop sedimanet is left over. But I lose some of the utilization. I welcome other suggestions. Any idea how the bigger nano breweries are doing it?

Sure. Tell me your process, water chemistry, and fermentation vessel, and I can tell you how to avoid it. I never get it so shouldn’t be hard.

 

[MotoGP1000]

Sure. Tell me your process, water chemistry, and fermentation vessel, and I can tell you how to avoid it. I never get it so shouldn’t be hard.

So I mash around 156F. Bring wort to boil normally 1st bag hops go in around 10min to 5min. Only a couple ounces. Then I drop bagged hops around 5-6ounces of pellets after boil around 170degrees. Then I dump wort into speidel fermenter. Let it sit with 1318 yeast for around 5 days. Might do bagged dry hops around the 4th day when fermenting has settled

I use distilled water and use the waters brewer NEIPA mineral pack

 

[couchsending]

Are you trying to leave as much trub in the kettle as possible?

What is your process after fermentation? Can you cold crash with head pressure?

Don’t bag the hops. Especially in the fermenter that just entraps more O2. I wouldn’t hotside either but that depends on your gear a little.

 

[MotoGP1000]

In my

Are you trying to leave as much trub in the kettle as possible?

What is your process after fermentation? Can you cold crash with head pressure?

Don’t bag the hops. Especially in the fermenter that just entraps more O2. I wouldn’t hotside either but that depends on your gear a little.

In my kettle I try to get it pretty clean. Typically I put the wort through a strainer while dumping into the fermenter.
My process after ferm is close transfer with CO2 into a keg. Yeah try to get the least amount of oxygen touching the beer. I don’t cold crash much anymore because my fridge isn’t big enough to fit my fermenter and I don’t really want to go back to the pale

 

[couchsending]

In my


In my kettle I try to get it pretty clean. Typically I put the wort through a strainer while dumping into the fermenter.
My process after ferm is close transfer with CO2 into a keg. Yeah try to get the least amount of oxygen touching the beer. I don’t cold crash much anymore because my fridge isn’t big enough to fit my fermenter and I don’t really want to go back to the pale

Yeah so there’s your issue... you either need to start cold crashing or at least lager the beer at cold temps (32ish) for a while. The burn is excessive hop polyphenols and yeast. If you can’t cold crash in your fermenter you can do it in a keg and then transfer the beer again to a serving keg.

Obviously you need to be incredibly meticulous about O2 pickup with another transfer but it’s not hard.

What’s your process for purging lines and kegs?

 

[SundayBrewer]

speidel fermenter.

I made a filter to fit the speidel for closed tranfers. Keeps most hop/yeast junk out of keg.

 

[MotoGP1000]

I made a filter to fit the speidel for closed tranfers. Keeps most hop/yeast junk out of keg.

That’s pretty awesome I’d love to know how that works

 

[MotoGP1000]

Yeah so there’s your issue... you either need to start cold crashing or at least lager the beer at cold temps (32ish) for a while. The burn is excessive hop polyphenols and yeast. If you can’t cold crash in

your fermenter you can do it in a keg and then transfer the beer again to a serving keg.

Obviously you need to be incredibly meticulous about O2 pickup with another transfer but it’s not hard.

What’s your process for purging lines and kegs?

so you’re saying cold crash in NEIPA is a requirement.
Typically I fill my keg with sanitized water. Shake it. Then just let it drain with co2 pressure. Then just pull the plug in the back I can then feed the beer through the out line into the keg using a co2 tank for pressure to the fermenter. Should be ver minimal oxygen pick up

 

[MotoGP1000]

Oh a

Yeah so there’s your issue... you either need to start cold crashing or at least lager the beer at cold temps (32ish) for a while. The burn is excessive hop polyphenols and yeast. If you can’t cold crash in your fermenter you can do it in a keg and then transfer the beer again to a serving keg.

Obviously you need to be incredibly meticulous about O2 pickup with another transfer but it’s not hard.

What’s your process for purging lines and kegs?

oh also. You’re saying the fermenter to keg isn’t enough for crashing? Wouldn’t the hop sediment settle out as it sits in the keg/fridge?

 

[couchsending]

Cold crashing a beer that you added a whole bunch of particulate matter to is rather important yes. The hop burn you’re experiencing is all matter in suspension in your beer.

You need to cold crash somewhere and move the beer off the material that’s fallen out of suspension. Ideally that’s in the fermenter but if you can’t do that effectively then using a keg for a “conditioning tank” and then moving it to another keg for carbonating and serving is your best bet. Very similar to why would happen on a professional scale.

I don’t understand what you mean by “pull the plug on the back” are you purging your lines thy connect the spiedel to the keg?

No reason to shake the keg full of sanitizer. You’re just creating more foam which equals more O2. O2 in parts per billion can damage Hop aroma and flavor.

 

[IslandLizard]

I brewed a 3 day NEIPA, dry hopped on day 2 with 4 oz (then stirred under CO2 every 2-3 hours), cold crashed aggressively in freezer (~30F) on day 3 for 12 hours. By that time all hop matter (and yeast) had settled on the bottom. Siphoned beautiful hazy beer into a 100% liquid pre-purged keg (through liquid post). Beer was delicious, smooth drinking, no hop burn in the throat.

To prevent air ingress, cold crashed with a small CO2 filled mylar bag connected to the airlock stem.

 

[MotoGP1000]

Cold crashing a beer that you added a whole bunch of particulate matter to is rather important yes. The hop burn you’re experiencing is all matter in suspension in your beer.

You need to cold crash somewhere and move the beer off the material that’s fallen out of suspension. Ideally that’s in the fermenter but if you can’t do that effectively then using a keg for a “conditioning tank” and then moving it to another keg for carbonating and serving is your best bet. Very similar to why would happen on a professional scale.

I don’t understand what you mean by “pull the plug on the back” are you purging your lines thy connect the spiedel to the keg?

No reason to shake the keg full of sanitizer. You’re just creating more foam which equals more O2. O2 in parts per billion can damage Hop aroma and flavor.

I’m purging the lines best I can. They are pretty short but give them a little burst. The plug on the back would be the keg “air plug”. I purge with liquid and pull that plug up so the transfer can occur into the keg from fermenter.

I’ve never tried a conditioning keg assuming you transfer and parts the beer is in there purge oxygen out but don’t keep co2 tank connected?

 

[MotoGP1000]

Cold crashing a beer that you added a whole bunch of particulate matter to is rather important yes. The hop burn you’re experiencing is all matter in suspension in your beer.

You need to cold crash somewhere and move the beer off the material that’s fallen out of suspension. Ideally that’s in the fermenter but if you can’t do that effectively then using a keg for a “conditioning tank” and then moving it to another keg for carbonating and serving is your best bet. Very similar to why would happen on a professional scale.

I don’t understand what you mean by “pull the plug on the back” are you purging your lines thy connect the spiedel to the keg?

No reason to shake the keg full of sanitizer. You’re just creating more foam which equals more O2. O2 in parts per billion can damage Hop aroma and flavor.

Couchsending, can you share your transfer process from keg to keg?

I just bought a 2nd keg for conditioning. Hopes high this will take out that nasty burn and leave me with robust awesome hop goodness

 

[couchsending]

Couchsending, can you share your transfer process from keg to keg?

I just bought a 2nd keg for conditioning. Hopes high this will take out that nasty burn and leave me with robust awesome hop goodness

Yup it’s easy. Obviously purge that serving keg incredibly well. (Filled to the brim with star San, push out a pint of so, then purge 12 times at 30psi, then push remaining Star San out at 10 psi or so.)

I then fill it with 20 psi and let it sit for 10-20 minutes to let all the liquid collect on the bottom. Liquid and foam contains O2 remember. Use that 20 psi to not only clear the remaining liquid but also purge your lines.

You’ll need two lines one that will connect the gas post on the conditioning keg to the gas post on the serving keg. The other one goes from the liquid out on conditioning to liquid on the serving. So two lines with the same QDs on each end.

If your beer is carbonated while conditioning then set the receiving keg to the same pSI. If you don’t you’ll get a bunch of foam. Then simply connect the liquid and gas lines on both kegs (that are well purged). Set the conditioning keg on something so it’s higher than the serving keg. Pull the pRV on the serving keg once and gravity will do the rest.

 

[MotoGP1000]

Awesome! Thank you. Couple questions

Do you carbonate your cold crash keg? If not what do you do?

and then 2ndly.... you said

“You’ll need two lines one that will connect the gas post on the conditioning keg to the gas post on the serving keg. The other one goes from the liquid out on conditioning to liquid on the serving. So two lines with the same QDs on each end.”

how does this work? Wouldn’t I just hook up the co2 tank to the conditioning keg so it can use the pressure to move the beer to the serving keg?

 

[couchsending]

Awesome! Thank you. Couple questions

Do you carbonate your cold crash keg? If not what do you do?

and then 2ndly.... you said

“You’ll need two lines one that will connect the gas post on the conditioning keg to the gas post on the serving keg. The other one goes from the liquid out on conditioning to liquid on the serving. So two lines with the same QDs on each end.”

how does this work? Wouldn’t I just hook up the co2 tank to the conditioning keg so it can use the pressure to move the beer to the serving keg?

I cold crash in the fermenter so when I transfer it’s into a serving keg. I will sometimes krausen in a keg and then transfer to a serving keg after its carbonated.

I would carbonate while you’re cold crashing/conditioning yes.

If you just pushed carbonated beer into an empty keg you’d get a ton of Co2 breakout and foaming. When you do the method I suggested you won’t get any foam and don’t need to use any additional Co2 to push the beer. It essentially works by gravity. It’s the way to move carbonated beer from one vessel to another.

 

[MotoGP1000]

I cold crash in the fermenter so when I transfer it’s into a serving keg. I will sometimes krausen in a keg and then transfer to a serving keg after its carbonated.

I would carbonate while you’re cold crashing/conditioning yes.

If you just pushed carbonated beer into an empty keg you’d get a ton of Co2 breakout and foaming. When you do the method I suggested you won’t get any foam and don’t need to use any additional Co2 to push the beer. It essentially works by gravity. It’s the way to move carbonated beer from one vessel to another.

Thanks I’ll give it shot. As mentioned my fermenter is just over too big to fit into my mini fridge but a keg does just fine. Any thoughts of cold crashing the beer uncarbonated in the conditioning keg then transfer to serving keg and carbonate there? My guess is one would transfer to conditioning keg and just burp the heck out of it a few times leaving no pressure in the keg during cold crash.

Curious with experimenting different ways..