Help with new controller build

[JayDog]

Hey guys I finally finished building my herms controller. I went with a 50 amp 2 element controller. It has 2 pump controls with constant on/off/auto. Today I finally powered it on just to see if everything is working properly. I had a lamp connected to one of the pump controller outlets. They were both working fine. So I was going through the settings on the ezboil to see the options. After a few minutes the pump outlet shuts off and I hear the contactor thump as if it was powered with the switch. I killed power to the controller, opened it up and was greeted by a puff of smoke. The contactor for the main power in was burning hot, the contactor for the pump was also hot. After letting it cool for a while I tried to power it up again but no power to the pump, sounds like the contactor is dead. When I turn on the switch for the other pump I can hear the contactor power on, I can also see a little orange tab inside. Sorry for the long rant, now to my questions.
Is my contactor done for?
Also, the contactor for the main power would make a really strong thumping sound when I powered it on the first time. After the smoking issue I turned it on again but this time it was quiet. Is this contactor done as well? It powers on the PID’s and the pump.
After the pump contactor issue my amp/volt meter also shut down and won’t power up again with the rest of the box.
Sorry again for the long rant but I’m trying to get brewing again.

 

[doug293cz]

Symptoms sound like you might have applied 240V to 120V rated coils on the contactors. With the main power connected, and everything off, I would check the voltage between the two terminal screws (for white & green wires) visible in the 2nd pic on the main power input recessed plug. It should read 0, but if it reads 120V, then that is your problem. The connections on that recessed plug seem oddly placed to me, based on how the voltage, neutral, and ground blades are positioned on an L14-30 plug.

Brew on

 

[JayDog]

Thanks for the reply Doug, I tested the voltage and there is no power on those wires.
I should note that I'm not using the L14-30 plug, I am using the California style connectors due to my system being 50 amps. Also I didn't piece everything together, I went with the Auber Brew Buddy DIY kit which included everything. I looked over the wiring guide and everything seems to be wired correctly according to the guide.
Is the main power contactor supposed to make a loud thumping sound when powered on? It did when I first turned it on but after the smoke issue it doesn't anymore. The PID's and the other pump still have power if that means anything.

 

[doug293cz]

Yeah, I realized later that you might have a 50A panel, and I might have referenced the wrong plug.

Contactors do make a noticeable "clunk" when energized. But a contactor shouldn't get hot in normal operation. It sounds like you have burned up the contactor coil, which would account for the smoke, and failure to work now. I'd disconnect the power, and measure the coil resistance of all the contactors. It's possible that the contactor was built with the wrong (lower than 110V) coil, even tho the markings on the contactor indicate it has a 110V coil.

Don't have any idea why the V/A meter would stop working. It appears that it picks up its power right after the main power contactor. Is this correct? Are the wires still intact?

Brew on

 

[JayDog]

So this morning I decided to just go ahead and order a new contactor for the main and one for the pump. I tested the resistance on the main contactor and with the switch on (breaker power was off) the contactor circuit would close between numbers 3 and 4. When I tested numbers 1 and 2 there was nothing. I just I mounted it and took the contactor apart. Pics for your enjoyment

 

[JayDog]

More pics, after taking apart it looks like the coil melted onto the magnet.

 

[doug293cz]

Looks like I was correct about it being a coil failure. Are there any markings on the coil itself?

Brew on

 

[JayDog]

Nothing that I could see. I haven't checked the contactor from the pump yet. But I ordered a replacement anyway. Work is taking me out of town for 2 days. First thing Friday will be to get the new one wired in. I'm going to go over the wiring once again. Can it be that I wired something wrong? Or do contactors just go bad?

 

[doug293cz]

Contactors are usually quite reliable, which is why I'm asking questions trying to determine if the wrong coil was put in the contactor, or contactor was mismarked.

I've spent some time tracing your wiring from the photos, but have not found anything that looks suspect yet.

Brew on

 

[JayDog]

Thanks Doug, I went over the wiring once I finished the panel. It looks like I followed the instructions but I thought maybe there was something I missed.

 

[JayDog]

Update: So I ordered a contactor from Amazon. They have a different brand so I gave that one a try. Plus the fast shipping. Got here last night, and packaging (contactor thrown in the envelope with no box) was horrible. I opened it and heard something loose inside. I processed the return and ordered 2 more. Luckily they were here by this afternoon. No loose pieces inside so I installed it. I also installed a smaller contactor for the pump output. That one was toasted as well. Controller is back up and running. Amp/volt meter is also working. The contactor did get about 10 degrees hotter in the few minutes it was on. I only had it powering a lamp. I’m hoping to do a practice run with some water next week. Then hopefully I can get a brew day in. It’s been 8 months since I’ve been able to brew.

 

[doug293cz]

Glad you got it working again. A small temp rise on a contactor is okay, but they shouldn't be too hot to touch (and definitely not smoke.)

Brew on

 

[JayDog]

Okay well I’ve been busy the last few weeks. Tried to do a test run on the controller and heard a clunk sound again. Killed power opened it up and again, more smoke. I am about done with this. I’m gonna try to find someone locally that can take a look at it. On that note if there is anyone in the Tampa area I’d love to have you look at it.

 

[doug293cz]

Bummer. Not anywhere near Tampa, and am definitely not getting on a commercial flight any time soon.

Brew on

 

[JayDog]

Well, I was ready to throw in the towel, but I gave it one more shot. I already had a new contactor on hand because I ordered two the first time it fried just to have an extra one. I replaced it, but before I powered it up I gave it another look over. Traced all the wires from the diagram. Everything was right and I didn’t find any issues. I then said to myself let me take a look at the outlet the electrician wired up, maybe he made some mistake. Everything looked good. Took an ohmmeter to the cable that powers the controller and noticed there was no continuity from the neutral at each end. Once I opened it I found my problem. I wired the plug in wrong, had the white neutral and the red power lines swapped. I couldn’t not believe after all the trouble I had it was down the the first piece of equipment.

My old high school shop teacher popped in my head. I remember him always saying when you have a problem always start your troubleshooting at the plug. Sometimes it isn’t even plugged in. Although it was plugged in I never had the thought that I could have made a mistake, even doubting the licensed electrician who installed my receptacle. Well that’s enough cursing and embarrassment for one night.

 

[doug293cz]

At least you found the problem. Looks like my first reply to you was spot on (240V applied to 120V coil.) I just didn't have the point of wire swap guessed correctly.

Brew on