Help with cast Iron tower conversion

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JONNYROTTEN

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I'm thinking of switching up my existing tower to a cast iron one just for the look. I have a few questions/concerns.

Is the flange mounting screws the same as a standard 3" tower?
I have a granite counter top and don't want to drill more holes

Do they retain heat longer leading to foamier pours?


A possible issue I will have is that I have a 2" space between the countertop and under counter fridge.
As it sits I have a 2" pvc pipe slid into the 3" tower extending trough the counter top into the fridge that works perfect for filling the space. The pvc is a perfect snug/airtight fit in the tower.

How would I go about filling the space with the cast iron pipe tower that will be a different inside diameter?

Heres what I'm thinking of doing. If you scroll down a bit there is an Amazon build list link.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...-list/&usg=AFQjCNHl0yDWze2g7wcKFL6vagQzPm2-Lg
 
I'd pick up a small section of 2" cast iron pipe. Lowes sells it. You could use that to check your dimension. You can return it later if you don't use it.

My guess is that you'll be out of luck with the flange, but you may be able to pick up one of those at Lowes as well.

As far as the 2" pvc, you could try 1.5" and see if that will fit. A little spray foam in the gap should make it airtight.
 
I'd pick up a small section of 2" cast iron pipe. Lowes sells it. You could use that to check your dimension. You can return it later if you don't use it.

My guess is that you'll be out of luck with the flange, but you may be able to pick up one of those at Lowes as well.

As far as the 2" pvc, you could try 1.5" and see if that will fit. A little spray foam in the gap should make it airtight.
If the flange doesn't work I'm out of luck...not drilling new holes.
My concern would be less airflow with the smaller diameter PVC and Pipe.
My pours are so perfect right now I really don't want to mess that up with a warm tower.

It seems everyone uses a 2" pipe, don't they have a 3"
Does the 3" look to lunky and that's why everyone uses the 2"
 
They do make 3" pipe, but it gets really expensive. I tried to price it out with 3", but I was unable to find some of the parts - specifically the bushing. Without the bushing, you'll have to drill out the pipe.
 
I just added a black iron stand to my stand alone kegerator. I was worried that a 2" flange would not match up to the mounting holes (didn't seem like it when I measured. I found that the mounting holes in the floor flange had enough give to line up with the mounting holes as it was tightened down. I had to grab longer 10-32 bolts from Lowes.

The Lowes and Home Depot around me didn't carry any black iron or galvanized pipe in sizes larger than 1" so I went online. I found that www.zoro.com had the best prices for black iron pipe. Their pricing came in much cheaper than Amazon.

I ended up running 1/2" copper line for my beer line to run through and additionally I added 2x 3/4" copper pipes; one is for air intake (from a DC fan) and the other is an air return. I then spray foamed the voids between the copper and iron. I have not had any condensation issues but I can not comment on beering foaming issues yet as I am carbing my first keg.
 
Would you guys mind giving me a measurement for the bolt pattern.
I have 2 3/4" from center to center. Thats measuring across like a right angle not on a diagonal.
Its actually around a 1/16 less than 2 3/4"
 
I went to Lowes and they had everything I needed except the bushings that I can get elsewhere.

I also found a solution for the space between the counter top.
The OD of my existing 2" PVC and the 2" cast iron is almost exact. If I thread the pipe aprox 5" I can just thread the pipe all the way into the fridge till I bottom out on the flange...Seems super simple.

Lowes threads pipe for free right there, So I asked the guy just to continue the standard 1" thread up the pipe. He said "we only do standard 1" threads or I'll burn out the dye"
I said "let me ask you something" If 5 people come in looking for a 1" thread or one person asks for a 5" thread, isnt it the same wear and tear.
He looked at me with a blank stare and said Yes but I'm not being responsible for an expensive machine.
The machine will do it he said so it looks like I need to go back when someone else is on shift that's not such a worry wort
 
I went to Lowes and they had everything I needed except the bushings that I can get elsewhere.

I also found a solution for the space between the counter top.
The OD of my existing 2" PVC and the 2" cast iron is almost exact. If I thread the pipe aprox 5" I can just thread the pipe all the way into the fridge till I bottom out on the flange...Seems super simple.

Lowes threads pipe for free right there, So I asked the guy just to continue the standard 1" thread up the pipe. He said "we only do standard 1" threads or I'll burn out the dye"
I said "let me ask you something" If 5 people come in looking for a 1" thread or one person asks for a 5" thread, isnt it the same wear and tear.
He looked at me with a blank stare and said Yes but I'm not being responsible for an expensive machine.
The machine will do it he said so it looks like I need to go back when someone else is on shift that's not such a worry wort

Maybe introduce him to Mr. Andrew Jackson. :D
 
I just added a black iron stand to my stand alone kegerator. I was worried that a 2" flange would not match up to the mounting holes (didn't seem like it when I measured. I found that the mounting holes in the floor flange had enough give to line up with the mounting holes as it was tightened down. I had to grab longer 10-32 bolts from Lowes.

The Lowes and Home Depot around me didn't carry any black iron or galvanized pipe in sizes larger than 1" so I went online. I found that www.zoro.com had the best prices for black iron pipe. Their pricing came in much cheaper than Amazon.

I ended up running 1/2" copper line for my beer line to run through and additionally I added 2x 3/4" copper pipes; one is for air intake (from a DC fan) and the other is an air return. I then spray foamed the voids between the copper and iron. I have not had any condensation issues but I can not comment on beering foaming issues yet as I am carbing my first keg.
Quoting for help with post #7
 
I went to Lowes and they had everything I needed except the bushings that I can get elsewhere.

I also found a solution for the space between the counter top.
The OD of my existing 2" PVC and the 2" cast iron is almost exact. If I thread the pipe aprox 5" I can just thread the pipe all the way into the fridge till I bottom out on the flange...Seems super simple.

Lowes threads pipe for free right there, So I asked the guy just to continue the standard 1" thread up the pipe. He said "we only do standard 1" threads or I'll burn out the dye"
I said "let me ask you something" If 5 people come in looking for a 1" thread or one person asks for a 5" thread, isnt it the same wear and tear.
He looked at me with a blank stare and said Yes but I'm not being responsible for an expensive machine.
The machine will do it he said so it looks like I need to go back when someone else is on shift that's not such a worry wort
I know just about dick about brewing but a little about plumbing. You can't "all thread" NPT thread due to the taper (that's why it gets progressively tighter as you turn it) die will start to produce a pig's tail of threads if you go too far.
 
I just ordered all the materials for doing one of these, along with a new kegerator. I went with 3" pipe.

I need to figure out how to connect them too. Have you made any progress?
 
I just ordered all the materials for doing one of these, along with a new kegerator. I went with 3" pipe.

I need to figure out how to connect them too. Have you made any progress?
My existing tap works fine and when I hit a wall I forgot about it.
I'll pick it up again some other time.

I have a space between my kegerator and countertop...That was My issued.
If your just screwing it to the top of a kegerator I would think the flange is all you need.
 
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