Help on Wiring a Keezer Temp Control

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72Chevelle

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I have attached a very simple diagram that I made. What I want to make sure of is that it looks correct. Orange is neutral black is hot and green is ground coming from the wall and bolted strait to the frame and green from the controller to the compressor hot is just power to the compressor. Basically I bypass the original thermostat I am actually going to put the controller in the bottom where the original temp controller was. If someone with a little more knowledge than me could look over this and verify it before I wire it. The red circles are junctions, I will just use wire nuts.

Thanks

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I can help you out, I just need to know what device you are connecting to? Manufacture & model number would be great. Something to keep in my make sure you don't short cycle the compressor. Short cycling example: compressor is running for any amount of time (1 min to whatever) then turns off and turns back on within 5 minutes (to be safe). You have to let the gas equalize before restarting the compressor. If you use a temperature controller make sure you set it up to have a few degrees from when it turns off until it turns back on.
 
I have a GE 7.0 FCM7DUWW I have attached a picture of the wires I have to work with. The neutral just needs to be connected to the #2 of the controller and the loose hot off of the cord should just need to go to #1 and the loose black going to the compressor going to # 8 and a jumper wire going from 1 to 7. As far as the short cycling the compressor from reading on the extensive thread about the STC-1000 it says you can set the differential to different amounts I was figuring 5 Degrees but it says you can also set a duty cycle to keep it from short cycling. But i gotta research that a little more.

Thanks a bunch I only want to do this once.

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its an STC-1000 basically in my picture #1 and 2 power the controller itself and #3 and 4 are the inputs for the resistance thermoprobe and #5 and 6 are for heating which wont be used in this application. Finally 7 and 8 are the switched source for the cooling. 7 having power and 8 being the side thats gets power once switched. I researched the controller a little more and I can set different values for the differential, I am leaning toward 5 degrees so it would have to get 5 degrees warmer before kicking in and the duty cycle I will set at 9 minutes so it will not cycle at the most every 9 minutes.
 
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